jamest

Hi, Speaking as someone who is starting out in O gauge with a shunting layout soon (ish).... I know you are an advocate of using the DCC80 for polarity switching on OO gauge layouts - have you used them on here? Or is the 2 amp limit not enough? I like the idea of using something like them and switching the points wire in the tube. Regards, James

Hi Richard, Hope all is well with you....like the new additions, you are definitely utilising the 3D printer! Love the blackboard - looks great. all the best, James

Thanks, You might have to wait a little bit as I need to move on a OO layout to make space. Until then I'll get my fix here. With regard to your location I have spent many a happy summers day in Angelsey just above you. We have friends that live in Newborough. We did wonder down as far as Pwlheli on the mainland but not as far as you yet! Cheers, James

Hi, I will be following your progress with interest - I'm dipping my toe into 7mm and have roughly the same space. I want to go down one side of my shed and have 11.5' by 2' - I was thinking the fiddle yard might have to be out the door but you have illustrated it might be possible to keep it all within the 11.5' length. Anyway good luck - your progress so far is impressive. Regards, James

Hi, This is really spooky but I have been sussing out a 2 foot extension to my new layout (not on here yet) this very afternoon. I was doing a river but I have some scenic width the other side of the bridge (the exact same wills one!) so I decided on a canal so I can do a lock against the back scene. I came in to look at the scalescenes site for some dimensions and your thread happened to be the last page I looked at on chrome the other day. So there were your efforts for me to look at! Looks really good.... And I have some left over ratio platform bits too. So I'll probably nick a lot of your ideas. Thanks! James

Hi Stu, I'd love to see some photos of Shelfe Street - I've done a search (including a google one) and I don't seem to be able to find any - only glowing references! There are some of the entry point in this thread, and some more of the other end I think, but I'd like to see the track plan if I could. This sort of thing is right up my street - not too big a project - you can concentrate on detail - you don't need a massive stud of locos and wagons - and you can run a variety of stock and change the road vehicles to suit different eras. cheers, James

Hi again, Can I ask - has Shelfe Street got a thread? I can search lots of references but I don't seem to be able to find a thread of its own? Do you have a pic of it? Regards, james

Hi, Love this layout - I think it would scale up to 7mm well too - but I feel I'd have trouble replicating this standard! I hope the comment about the track when it was code 100 was made in the right way - by a friend - otherwise it sounds pretty rude to me. Yes you have definitely improved the look with the new track - but it was impressive with the code 100 too. and I've only just realised you are responsible for Portwey too - another fantastic small space layout. Thanks for sharing - lots of inspiration in your work. Regards, James

Hi Bill, Thanks for that, much appreciated, there is something about a roundie! Although I've not done one since! I'm glad it has provided you with some ideas and inspiration....I look forward to seeing your efforts. All the best, James

Starter layout Hi, See link above (hopefully it works). Way back I dipped my foot back into model railways with a layout the same size as yours - it does not have a island platform - but utilises curved set-track points and code 100 track. I also wanted one half scenic and one half for storage. It obviously stretches reality a bit - but provided hours of fun - building and operating. It might provide you with some useful information. all the best, James

Thanks for the tips - I'll also be interested in your 108 build....so I will be staying tuned! Hopefully I'll have a Dapol 122 DMU soon (which will require much less effort)! Regards, James

Hi, From the evidence presented on this thread you look to be a dab hand at this. I'm new to O gauge and new to soldering (other than track feeds) and kit bashing. I have some RTR O gauge stuff and a couple of donor big big train hymeks (my favourite loco). I realise it is difficult to look on something with someone else's eyes (and hands), but did you find the conversion using the PRMRP kit a straightforward one? Or should I practice a bit more on other projects first? Regards, James

hi, I'm thinking the same - I'm going down the card platform and scalescenes brick paper faces. I managed to 'mask' the platform position quite well while spreading the ballast - to get a decent edge to my final ballasting - I can then add the card walls, varnish, and then fill in gaps with neat pva and ballast. Regards, james

I see I have the gold medallion now! Many thanks Andy. regards, james

Hi again, Sorry should have tried before i posted - the account code seems to work as my subscription number and I have access to my digital mags. The question about the link to my RMweb account still stands though - not wishing to push anyone though - happy to wait if the wheels are turning on that! I just didn't see any link to RMweb during my order process with WOR. Thanks, James

Hi, Just joined - I created a world of railways account before checkout - did the order - and received an email with order receipt. it has a link to the BRM digital library and talks about a subscription number. I have an account code and an order reference in the email - do I have to wait for a subscription number when the direct debit is approved? Ref the RMweb side of things - how does it tie in with that (all the benefits I get here?). I don't want to sound impatient - i just want to make sure I'm doing it right! Regards, James

Hi, I am also being lured into O gauge and I have a similar length available as you - but I can go to 2' wide. I need to clear some space, and probably sell some stuff, before I start for real but I'll be interested to follow your journey as well. all the best, James

Hi, This looked like the most appropriate area to ask this question so here goes..... I am in the process of building a western region BLT and I'd like to use as much of my accumulated stuff as possible. I find platforms with curved edges are easy with peco platform edging but I fear I will be guilty of a heinous crime if I use concrete style platform faces (LK-62)? This seems to be more of a southern thing - are there any real life examples of it being used on the western region? I could do the faces from mount board and brick paper - but I'm looking for an excuse to make the forming, and subsequent ballasting, easier! I know I could apply rule 1, but I am sure there will be many compromises on the overall layout, and I do like to make it vaguely accurate if I can! regards, James

Hi, What a great solution to the problem that swing bridge is. It has ignited a lot of ideas for me for my potential 7mm shed layout. Simple but effective. Regards, James

Hi, Had a look at Howes website and that seems the most sensible option - humbrol paints are more attainable for me locally - but I might as well get the best option, and order a few more 'nice to haves' to make sure the postage is worth it! Thanks again, James

Hi, Just searched around a bit more and found someone who used humbrol 36 for his respray of a big big hymek in O gauge. He had the advantage of re-spraying it all - I just need to touch up around the buffers (is it called a valance on the outside of the buffers underneath the body on the corners). I think my second hand hymek has a BR blue all black underneath and a green body. I should be able to use the No.36 and lighten/darken to my needs - with a bit of weathering it should do the job nicely. Regards, James

Hi all, I need to touch up around the front of my Heljan OO Hymek and I have been looking into the bottom green line. I understand it may well be up for debate but is there any humbrol close alternative to the Phoenix P138 BR yellow green? Or perhaps a car colour alternative? I would use the Phoenix colour but mail order seems expensive, and I don't have a local source for it. Regards, James

Hi, Been following your progress with interest. As someone starting out in O gauge with a similar space - did you manage to stay within your original plan, or did you go a bit bigger (by 6" to a 1')? regards james

Hi Thanks for that Kevin. Right, here are the lights painted and fitted to the layout - along with the long overdue name boards. I like to name my layouts around places I have a connection to - and not necessarily places that have connection to railways. We have friends who have a place on Anglesey and we have spent many a great week there in the summer with them. Their place is at Newborough, or Niwbwrch, and I thought it appropriate as a name. In reality it is not rail served but it could have looked like this if you close one eye and squint a bit! I'm not sure about the larger sign with the BR logo - it might be a bit too big - but its there for now. It might well have been dual signed in Welsh and English too - but I've obviously stick with the Welsh name. So here are the pics of the lights and signs - The light nearest the shelter has a bin attached too: Regards, James

Hi all, I found the broken lights from my attempts to add lights to my Braybridge layout - they are knightwing white metal ones. Rather than buy some more I decided to make my own versions! So I've used some 1mm dia wire with some plastic rectangular sectioned wire for the tops: Here is an example of a bought one (broken): and my efforts - I've wrapped masking tape around the bottom for the larger dia at the base - the tops had a hole drilled for the wire and I will need to fill in some gaps with model filler and paint. I need to straighten the wire a little more (it came off a reel). I'll show the end results later......along with the name of the layout! regards, James