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Phil Bullock

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Posts posted by Phil Bullock

  1. Certainly not a great lover of those pick up arrangements as cause a lot of dead connections and flicking lights , has anyone added there own yet .

     

    Richard

    Hi Richard

     

    Hopefully wont be as bad as the 40 as no centre electrically dead axle to balance on. Will not make a judgment on it until we have run on the layout though

     

    Phil

  2. Hi all,

     

    Just received my BR Blue 842 Warship which is now sitting next to my Dapol weathered BR Blue Western and I have to say I find it sadly lacking in comparison.

     

    Level of refinement and detail pack doesn't seem to be on a par with the Dapol class 52.

     

    No etched plates

     

    The BR arrows are too thick

     

    Most of the detail pack parts seem too thick

     

    Essentially I'm an n gauge man but have a few OO gauge models for a diorama.

     

    Why do Bachmann use those horrible couplings?

     

    Looking for advice/ideas to upgrade it and hopefully make me feel pleased with my purchase

     

    Thanks,

     

     

    colbard

    Hi there

     

    Agree re the nameplate and arrows - get the model strip paste out and take them off! Replace Arrows with Fox Transfers Arrows from set F4300 and nameplates of choice from Extreme etchings - other suppliers are of course available but that's what we use

     

    Couplings? In to spares box and fit wire coupling loops - easy on these hydraulics with deep buffer beams

     

    Super detailing parts are also a bit heavy but others are available as spares if preferred - check photo before fitting the MU cable

     

    HTH

     

    Phil

  3. Agreed but on reflection: cab door slam, cab light on, engine start, cab light off. That is, when someone does a sound project.

    Hang on a mo.....

     

    Is that the sound of MAN diesels I hear approaching Norton Junction on a down working from Oxford?

     

    Hee hee

     

    https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/product/NBL/BR%20class%2043%20Warship%20(MAN)%20D833%20-%20D865%20diesel%20hydraulic%20sound%20decoder%20and%20speaker%20(21)

     

    Phil

  4. Phil I would suggest looking for (reliably) dated photos.  Old Oak were definitely still fitting shedplates on some locos in 1963 (on the valance on a Hymek according to one of my pics) and I can also remember 'Warships' with shedplates on the valance.  Alas I'm not sure when the stencilled 'shedplates' came in on the Western but many locos carried nothing at all for a period  (just to add a bit of spice to your quest ;) ).

    Thanks Mike

     

    The livery tends to confirm the period - Early Blue Arrows both ends - but trying to track down a photo that shows the codes is not easy....!

     

    Cheers

     

    Phil

  5. Sharpshooter should emerge from Churchdown works this weekend - Jimbo and I got distracted by fluff chucking yesterday.

     

    Phil

    But now realised we need shedplates! Look at the picture in "The Book of the Warships" - on the valance not on the supplied buffer beam mounting.

     

    As the photo covers the 67-70 period assume the shed plate would have been the 83A one fitted prior to transfer to OOC in 67 - and that the stencil behind the drivers door would be cover the reallocation to 81A

     

    Is that reasonable - or were OOC still changing shed plates at this time?

     

    Phil

  6. were the Class 43s really that much worse than other diesels in this respect?

    I don't think so! Paradoxically it looks like the 42s went through the carriage washers much more often and as a result some finished their days in appalling states. Don't recall seeing a 43 in that state - perhaps they sat on shed doing nothing instead!

     

    Phil

    • Like 2
  7. Dear Phil

     

    I have some model strip, but how do you apply, leave and remove it such that it only removes the printed  elements and not the blue paint beneath and around them?  I too wish to replace the nameplate with an etch but, never having tried this before, I do not want to end up with the blue coming away as well.

     

    Best regards

    Hi there

     

    Courage mon brave!

     

    Apply with a blunt stick - literally! We use wooden cocktail sticks, am sure wooden stirring sticks would work as well or better. Cover evenly whatever it is you want to remove but try to confine application to the areas in question. The paste works best if kept moist so put the model in a plastic carrier bag and wrap up loosely to prevent it drying out. Length of time needed will vary but 30 mins is all that loco needed last night.

     

    Wipe away carefully with damp kitchen towel - try and avoid spreading it any further - and that's it....

     

    It probably would start attaching the base colour if left too long but suspect that would take hours - the printed numbers/name plates are far less resistant to it and can be confidently removed in this way

     

    Phil

  8. Hi, Dave. A great set of photo's of the Highland line this evening. In the first one, J3307, the two 26's, in addition to the different yellow cabs, also have different sizes of the BR double arrows.

     

    I like the photo' of Georgemas Junction in photo' J3290, a good overview of most of the track layout and the station building and footbridge.

     

    All the best,

     

    Market65.

    And C005 - both packed with modelling inspiration

     

    Phil

  9. Interesting that the cab front glazing is all one piece with the centre 'frame' painted in Phil, I assumed that it was two seperate pieces with the frame as part of the bodyshell moulding!

    Probably more robust the way it has been done Nidge

     

    This really was a doddle to dismantle - should get it at least to the gloss varnish stage tonight

     

    Chassis currently running in, a bit hesitant in one direction but generally OK

     

    Phil

    • Like 4
  10. Got our hands on one at last!

     

    10 minutes later...

     

    post-7138-0-42976200-1439405673_thumb.jpg

     

    Easy peasy.... the glazing is extra secure with a lot of plastic around it , just got a scalpel blade behind the excess to lever away, digital pressure did the rest. Cabs easy too, bulkhead first then floor.

     

    Modelstrip now applied to deal with numbers, OHLE flashes and that over sized double arrow

     

    Name plate has to go too, look at that width discrepancy

     

    post-7138-0-72739100-1439405842_thumb.jpg

     

    Yup is going to be D843 with arrows at both ends

     

    Phil

    • Like 4
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