-
Posts
7,208 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Posts posted by micklner
-
-
8 hours ago, Paul_sterling said:
Do you go direct to Bradwell for the parts please Mick? Email, phone?
Thanks..
Paul..
E Mail, Dave is is very helpful as well. He is on the Scalefour Society Page under Traders.
-
2 hours ago, Captain_Mumbles said:
A picture of your book law might help.
I have looked at how these models are assembled, and I am a little confused by it to be honest. It is almost like they might have got the cad wrong. Even if I were to separate the forward part of the engine, I dont think I can do anything about it without cutting it horizontal and adding a shim. It is almost as if there isn't enough height between the fwd boiler and the running plate.
My early A1 Scotsman had a little ski jump and a careful massage helped a lot.
A balls up is a polite description . I will do a photo later.
- 3
-
36 minutes ago, Captain_Mumbles said:
It is a pitty about the RMweb meltdown.
Nice work over there though!
I still have Book Law, I can take some photos of her current condition if needed?
- 1
-
3 hours ago, Captain_Mumbles said:
A while back, I was able to secure a 2nd hand Knight of the Thistle and must report no noodles were needed back then.
But just like the new P2, once I got it home it was duly confiscated by the minister of finance and planning for being too pretty and lives in the display stand and is a faff to get out.
Slightly off topic.
Has anybody attempted to fix any of the previous generation A1/3 with the 'ski jump' front ends?
I got a hold of a copy of the 2018ish (i think) Woolwinder and would like to have a go at fixing it.
Cheers,
Ben
Basically I had to break the front and wedge to the correct position, repair etc.
I did do some photos here all lost in the RM Web meltdown. The photos are long gone as i have a new laptop since.
- 2
-
But its a Precision Etched Brass Craftsman Etched Kit !! 😅
it says so on the box,so that must be true !!
What could possibly go wrong !! 🫣🍌
- 2
- 5
-
More like milking the last possible penny out of a Locomotive with one in the Class. 🤐
- 1
- 5
-
36 minutes ago, Coldgunner said:
that font on the cabside numbers really bothers me
More like the whole "thing" 🤪🙃🤑
- 1
- 1
-
12 hours ago, 30368 said:
Hi Mick,
The motor and gearbox are:
1219C HLPower Coreless
SKU:
M3
Price:
£27.00
RoadRunner COMPACT
SKU:
GB3
Worm Bore:
1.5mm
Gearbox Ratio:
45:1
Axle Diameter:
1/8in
Price:
£16.00
Both motor and gearbox selected for low profile given small boiler. The coreless 1219C is very powerful for its size as are all coreless motors. I heve found HL components very good as I do Branchlines gearboxes and Mashima Motors - when you can get them.
Kind regards,
Richard
Thanks I always use HL boxes . I am building a B16 at the moment or I have a A2 in the pile, the motor sounds good for either . The comment from JW re high revving, has been noted as well.
cheers
-
-
What do you think of the High Level Motor , what size is it please ?
-
8 minutes ago, pete_mcfarlane said:
I find my local Games Workshop a bit odd. Go in for a can of spray paint and I get pounced on by the staff, who try and pressure sell me gaming stuff that I'm not interested in. It's a retail experience that you normally only get in the States.
Similar experience when I always used to use their Varnish Aerosols , sadly they changed the formula for that for the worse a few years ago, and I now use other makes. The staff always looked disapointed when I only want some paint!!.
Shortly after they started closing shops in my area. Lakeside and Brentwood are long gone , now the only one left is Romford which is tiny shop down a dingy old Arcade, and I believe opens one or two days a week. i have just looked on their website, and its open today at 12pm , no other information obvious as to other opening times or when it closes !!.
Heading towards Mail Order only?, which again is quite sad.
-
No response recieved on the email address. Sent on October 1st. I has'nt bounced so its gone somewhere.
-
1 hour ago, 65179 said:
You may well have seen the view of the tender front in this link:
before on mikemeg and Rob Pulham's B16 builds, but it may have been lost along with so many other images elsewhere. I found it invaluable to work out how things should look.
Simon
Rob Pulham B16 build with all the photos, is on The Scalefour Society website. He has been very helpful already on this build. Thanks for the info. Mick.
- 2
-
1 hour ago, 65179 said:
Are the correct NER lubricators supplied Mick?
Simon
It has the Two Footplate lubricators included , there should be Three . LRM has sent another F.O.C.
-
On 16/10/2023 at 16:47, Jon4470 said:
Excellent work! Really like these locos and they are more or less essential for 1930s North Eastern railways.
I’m making notes as I have one of these stashed away…. So all the tips and work arounds will help greatly.
Jon
Better get a pen ready 🫣 there are quite a few pointers so far, just on the Loco alone !!. Dave Bradwell castings will be much in evidence in due course. Some of the Kits ones are wrong sizes, poor detail, or not supplied at all. See below 🤪
So far
Sadly a number of etches on the 7mm Gladiator kit (same basic design) are not on the original etches or on the new Boiler etch.
Wheel Balance weights, Bottom Washout/Mud Holes surrounds, Splasher Rivet surrounds. Top Washout plugs wrong shape and too small for either Boiler.
Neither 4mm and 7mm kits have the following items .No castings for Steam Reverse or any etch for the Cylinder linkage.
Safety valve Casting the base is too small , Safety Valves too high, Oil Box castings oversize and/or wrong shape.
- 1
- 1
-
Current condtion next up the Roof and the Bolier will soldered to the Footplate. The kit has been designed to allow its removal for painting. As it is all in Black that is not needed.
- 14
- 4
-
Latest "interesting" kit.
A LRM ex Barnfield ex NER LNER B16 kit from originally 30 years ago. So far I am about 3/4 the way through the Locomotive build. The Tender is still in the box smiling at me everytime I look !!
The main etches are reasonable, using a the original Boiler Dia 49 you have to cut curved pieces out of the Firebox bottom , strange as no idea how if ever fitted when designed by Barnfield. It now also comes with a new etch of the Dia 40a Boiler which was'nt use before 1939 which is too late for my period of modelling.
Instructions are very vague in places and this is not a beginners kit!!. Some of the detail parts are poorly made/cast or simply ignored e.g the prominent Steam Reverser mechanism on the offside of the Boiler.
Chassis was ok no more, none of the body mounting holes matched the ones on the Footplate. Luckily it worked/ran first time when pre assembled before painting.
Smokebox the Ring should be wider than the Door. No its smaller !! I soldered a circle of 0.45mm wire to the Rings outside, which solved that issue , new steps made as the kits ones were tiny and useless.Boiler rolled ok , other than it has two very thin overlapping sections on the bottom. Sadly it rolled with a prominent crease, hence the filler.
Cab a good fit when folded up.
- 10
- 1
- 4
-
Chas ,
I only gave a quick skim over the video contents. I have never built the Comet LNER kits as I prefer the LNER MJT version kits, so I cant comment any further re building them.
I have just noticed that Wizard now want £1.50 for the Comet Book, which used to be free on the old Comet site. Perhaps the Wizard version has better/updated photos than the Worsley version ?. I suggest contact the Wizard owner he is helpful.
- 1
-
Try this one
- 1
-
The Crankpin is a different longer length for the Oil Drive.
Remove the wheels/axle from the chassis
Remove the driver from the axlePush the crankpin out the rear of the wheel it has a T fitting on the end .
Line the new Crankpin up with the T shape in the rear of the driver and push through fully home into the wheel. Replace the wheels and axle back into the chassis. Refit the Coupling Rods on the nearside only.
Look through the wheel spokes after first lining up roughly 45 degrees around from the wheel on the other side. Line the wheels on the same side until all the Crankpins are in line. Leave the Coupling Rod on the front two wheels on, it will help when lining the wheels up.
Push the wheel onto the end of the axle which has a knurled finish , it should slide back on without any force. If it wont go back on move the wheel slightly either way until it slides back on . Ensure the Crankpins are in line , replace the Coupling Rod and test under low power. Once running ok ,then place the Oil Drive Bracket onto the Crankpin , and test again.
-
MARC Models owner I believe was suffering from Dementia or similar?. A lot of problems re orders etc etc as a result. I believe again, that the business was then closed down.
Strangely I looked a while ago and the Website was still active. No idea if anything can be obtained , I decided not to try any contact.
- 1
-
These might come in handy in 4mm and 7mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276014534743?hash=item4043bf9057:g:zYAAAOSwANNk6GK5
- 1
- 1
-
2 hours ago, Chas Levin said:
Mick, do you mean that when you order two pairs of Gibson bogie wheels, they come with six axles? That's very good service. I'm due to speak to Colin shortly anyway so I'll chase it up...
Interestingly, I can tell you that Gibson axles are the tiniest bit smaller than Markits. Colin from Gibson - during a quick chat about them at Scaleforum - said his axles were slightly smaller diameter and when I checked back at home, I found that Gibsons (I have a pair of EM ones in an older Gibsons kit in my stash) are 1.98mm, Markits (from another stash kit) are 2.03 and the silver steel rod I bought from an online metals supplier was 2.02mm.
😂 Yes!!
- 1
-
Alan Gibson Bogie Wheels always come with Pinpoint, and OO and EM Flat end Axles. No idea if the axles are the same diameter/size as the ones in the pictures.
- 4
- 1
Oxford Rail announce J27 at Toy Fair
in Oxford Rail
Posted
My other J27 is now a J26 , I was unable to find any 1930's era photos of the J27 with a Two Rail Tender. Bradwell castings again , Footplate rivets removed and repainted. Lightly weathered with powders,coaled and crewed.