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Liddy

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Blog Comments posted by Liddy

  1. I forgot to mention; this loco has a 25 x 9 mm PEEK speaker in a homemade 5.5 mm deep enclosure, it only just fits! Yet I'm tempted to try something with a larger 'cone' and enclosure to try and get more bass and complexity out of the sound project.

    Does anyone have a view on that?

     

     

    IMG_20240328_191151764_HDR~2.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. On 12/06/2022 at 07:37, Mikkel said:

    Looks like a good start. I smiled at the mention of books being rationalised and book cases cut down to size. A modeller's home soon takes shape after the hobby 🙂 

     

    Hi Mikkel,

    I cut the bottom two shelves off to retain the neat finish at the top.

     

    IMG_20220716_072709587.thumb.jpg.f1b16d2f91ff2c8823ebf18d34829f28.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. On 13/07/2022 at 11:14, deepfat said:

    I don't think I am related to Jesus or Pinocchio as my carpentry skills are crap so loving your  work as I aspire to the precision you are achieving

     

    Hi deepfat, thank you for the compliment, it's really down to using the pre-made shelf, the hardboard was cut with a 'Stanley' knife to fit.

  4. Hello John,

    Thanks for commenting.

    Thought I'd try all Peco parts (cheap, easily available) wish they did 1.5mm Check rail chairs. The Vee is standard Peco which went together spot-on at 1:6, the wing rails must be 1:8+ though, as I had to increase the bend to fit the Templot template (thanks Martin).

    I've been happy with C+L chairs/solvent/wood timbering in 4mm before, this time I ended up using araldite on all the chairs. I should have made longer Check rails, but they seem to do the job. The next one will be better.

  5. I'm happy to declare the point good-as finished, there is another chair that didn't adhere, so it will be out with the araldite again. I tried Carrs Butanone and PlastiWeld without success, it softened the Peco sleepers but I think the Peco chairs must be a nylon material as they don't seem to dissolve at all, leaving a smooth rectangular mark in the surface of the sleeper.

    Anyway, it works and will have a sector plate instead of blades.

     

    O Guage B6 Gaunt.jpg

  6. Hello John,

    Thank you for your comment, I read your 'layout with as yet no name (2)' blog and I can appreciate the effort you've put into the creamery (milk tanks are great rolling stock) I read Paul Lunn's book on building micro layouts and hope to have a cardboad scenery mock up ready for appraisal soon.

    All comments gratefully received.

  7. Next learning point; I folded and soldered the tabs on the W-irons for the self-tappers (I guess they screw into the floor) , then realised how good the moulded pips on the inside of the solebars are for locating the w-irons. so the first 2 have been glued on. The Ambis brake lever guides are coming together slowly and the vac pipes are looking good (Slaters vac pipe springs stretched and slid over round black braided elastic)

     

    First pair W-irons.jpg

  8. Inspired by the exceptional artistry of Geoff (Sparky) of Llangunllo EM and now Bleddfa Road in O gauge I am dabbling in 'O' to see how I like it.  At Cardiff Small Model Railway show I saw a very neat shunting layout with a sector plate as the lower leg of a 'Y' shape to create an O gauge micro. I have space for a 7ft run and printed a 'Y' track plan with AnyRail to create a half-size mock up with a Goods store to judge the composition and the width. The next stage is to mock up some landforms and a plate girder bridge to run upper right/lower left over the joint in the 'Y'.

     

    FOD shunt layout overview.jpg

  9. Please can someone advise me on the depth of the vacuum cylinder within the underframe. There is an 'L' shaped mark on the solebar to show on which side the cylinder is mounted, but nothing to indicate the depth. Is the top of the cylinder flush with the top surface of the underframe? Note, the underframe is shown upside-down.

     

    Vac cylinder.jpg

  10. I was pleased to find a strip of brass 0.5mm thick (close enough to the 20 thou of the plastic card strip to complete the underframe channel section) that helped position the underframe moulding relative to the solebars. With hindsight the buffer heads could have been added later so that the underframe could be constructed directly on a piece of glass.

     

     

    Underframe 2.jpg

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