Fen End Pit

Hi Jeff Yes, I agree, it would have been operated by an overhead power shaft, but I wouldn't have thought that the power shaft would have been fitted by the different sizes of drive wheel to match the three sizes at the top of the drill. It would have been above the height anyone could reach easily to swap the belt ratio. That is why I thought the power belt would have fed the bottom wheel and then the different belt ratios could have been selected from floor level. I think it looks plausible enough. Thanks David

As I mentioned in my last blog the next bit of workshop machinery I fancied trying to reproduce was a pillar drill. This proved to be quite a tricky bit of modeling just because there were so many features. I'd taken a photograph of this drill in the shed at Thelkeld. It looked to me as if the drill was originally belt driven with a 'new' electric motor powering the original drive wheel at the bottom. There then seems to be a belt which takes the drive to the top of the drill via a choice of three pairs of pulleys depending on the speed you require. I could also see the interesting hand wheel which raises and lowers the platform on the pillar. I'm not really sure exactly what all the rest of the gubbins on the top of the drill is for. Perhaps someone can enlighten me. It looked to me as if there was a handle to pull down the drill head but it looks as if this can be reconfigured to give some kind of automatic geared lowering? It looks like you could set the machine up and leave it to drill down at a preset speed? Anyway, it had lots of interesting shapes and, while I've not exactly modeled it all precisely I hope I've captured the feel of the prototype. The main pillar was divided into two and the table and bottom drive wheels printed as separate parts. Also separate are the hand wheel to lift the table and the quadrant handle. The parts took just over 4 hours to print at .04mm layer height on the Anycubic Photon. The parts took a little cleaning up but I was blown away by the detail which came out. The toothed rack behind the drill head and the teeth of the gears came out remarkable well, even the lift rod on the table has a thread on it (albeit with a rather coarse pitch than the prototype). Please bear in mind that this part is only 35mm from front to back. I intend to make some drive belts out of paper in a bit. I found a rather nice Bachmann 16mm fireman and together with workbench you can get a sense of scale. The sharp eyed amongst you will have noticed that there is a section of wall behind the workbench rather that piece of MDF and I'd like your opinion on this. I've never been any good at trying to scribe random stone so I thought I'd try a rolling pin I downloaded from the thingiverse. This printed out on my Ender 5 and looks, well frankly, a bit weird. The roller is 86mm tall and ~25mm diameter so gives a repeat in the pattern at ~80mm. I laid down a 6mm thick of layer of Sculptamold and let it go off for about 30 minutes until it was firm but still 'green'. The roller was rolled into the surface and it took the pattern well. I then made the pattern slightly less patio and more wall by adding in some extra horizontal joints in the stonework. I also found I could smooth in a little extra Sculptamold to fill in some of the joints to make the pattern so it didn't repeat so obviously. Finally I found that a coarse old paint brush could be used to apply a little more texture and strata markings to individual rocks. Do you think this will work as the inside walls of the shed? Ultimately I want something which looks like old white-washed stone. Please let me know what you think. David

Another happy photon user here. Depending on your budget I'd be going for a machine with a Mono screen. Personally I'd be tempted by the Anycubic Photon Mono or maybe the Phrozen Sonic mini 4K. David

Over the past week I've managed a few more bits of 3D printing, pushing my 3D modeling skills and my Anycubic photon to the limit. The power hammer had lots of odd shapes to model up and my favourite feature, the large spring between the two parts of the hammer mechanism. I was astonished that the foot peddle which engages the clutch mechanism came out, this is only 1mmx.8mm in profile. I printed this in 4 pieces, the main frame casting, the two fly wheels and the main hammer mechanism. This was printed with a .04mm layer height and took about 5 hours of print time. The wheels are on a brass rod axle. The operating gubbins shows the layer lines but these cleaned off quite easily, bear in mind this part is just 28mm across. The spring is made of .75mm coils and once the little bit of support structure was removed from the rear it actually springs freely. Once assembled the hammer was primed and then painted up. Just a reminder of the prototype. and my representation of it. I've added a little weathering to hopefully represent a work horse machine still in reasonable nick. Next up I've made some dustbins! Lots of fun modeling the various flutes and ribs on the bin and the lids. Three of these filled the print bed of the Photon nicely. A little bit of cleaning up was required, there was a slight issue about half way up the bins where there was a little bit of layer separation. Fortunately it wasn't enough to make the print fail and was pretty well hidden under a coat of primer. I was pushing the thickness (or actually thinness) of the parts on the printer. I hadn't allowed quite enough clearance on the rim of the lids so had to scrape some of the material off the inside to make them fit on the bases. With a little bit of sanding, painting a suitable grey and some weathering I think they look the part. The scene continues to come together, next up is the pillar drill. I've not been ignoring the Stour Valley during all this. I've been working mainly on wagon stock. I had the amusement of running stupidly long trains round and round just for the fun of it. David

now posted on thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4636824 David

Hi Alex The plan is to build the interior of a shed with a door to a fiddle-cassette. That way I can run whatever 16mm locos or wagons I fancy into the scene. David

I too am a photon user with my eye set on a mono. I don't really need the larger size but the ~3x speed increase! David

They look very nice, what did you print them on? David

I printed out the parts for my forge blower. There was some spare space on the build platform so I printed a few extra tools at the same time. I deliberately put the parts on twice and in a couple of different orientations to see which came out best. Splitting the blower into two halves allowed the bottom sides to be sanded and form the join. You can just make out the Alcoso No4 text on the parts and, while you can't read the text, the builder's plate has some relief on it which makes it look rather nice. The layers show up in the picture but hide as soon as some paint is applied. I used some brass rod to make the axle for the belt drive wheel, it rotates but I don't image it will be accurate to actually drive round.. I also drew up and printed out some pipe work to connect the blower to the bottom of the forge. It looks a bit two heavy duty and I didn't think more modern 'tumble drier venting duct' would look right. On the same print job I also printed up a number of buckets and pales. These were really simple to draw up and modify to give different handle versions. I could also easily scale in the slicer to give different sizes. So my little workshop/forge scene is coming on. Next I'll be moving on to a range of machine tools. David

So I got the forge painted, like the original it is very black and difficult to photograph! If it was anything other than a forge I might have been tempted to pick out the lettering in paint but in reality it would never have been. I did a quick google search for 'vintage belt drive forge blower UK' and found someone selling two on Ebay. I liked the note that said postage was not an option given the weight. Still they helpfully supplied a number of photographs and the key dimensions on their listing. So the intention is that my forge will be proudly equipped with an Alcosa No4 blower manufactured by William Allday at Paradise St, Birmingham. (Not wishing to offend any Brummies on here but that does sound like a case of Victoria hyperbole to me). It modeled up quite well in CAD and ends up about 20mm tall. It's not perfect but I doubt there are many people out there who will be able to tell once it is installed in the gloom next to the forge. David

I had modeled the forge up as 8 separate parts to allow me to position them on the Anycubic Photon to get the quickest prints. The resulting jobs filled the print bed twice and at a .04mm layer height it took about 5 hours to print out the parts. The results weren't too bad, there was a bit of warping on the largest part (the main base of the forge) but it was fairly easy to conceal as the worse bits are under the base and not visible. The top came out very nicely and I don't think there is a quicker, more consistent, way to make something with those compound curves than CAD and a 3D printer. The parts were stuck together with CA glue, the legs actually fitted fairly well into the corner cut outs made for them. Filings of the resin actually make an excellent filler in the joints when a drop of thin CA glue is put onto the surface. The complete forge stands at 84mm tall with the base being a scale 3' square. I'm very pleased with the way the manufacturer's name came out on the front and the general look of being made from cast metal. When positioned with the anvil and work bench I think it looks the part. There will need to be some kind of belt driven blower positioned next to it to feed in air and a good layer of coal/ashes. I'm also wondering about fitting an orange glowing LED. I'll also need a bucket of water and a sack of coal to go with it. David

In my previous posting I had found this picture of a rather nice cast forge. Some more digging on the internet and I found some references to Keith - Blackman Ltd of Farringdon Avenue London, manufacturers of smith's hearths and forge blowers - purveyors of complete installations for the smithy. I thought I'd try to model up something suitable for my workshop. I've broken it down into a number of pieces so i can try and print the individual parts on the photon.. If there are any RMWebbers who know their forges please tell me if this looks hideously wrong! I've also started on modeling up a power hammer, this is definitely a work in progress and still needs lots more work doing on it. Again, all comments very welcome! David

I made some progress on the workbench today. I 3D printed a range of bolt heads to add to the timber to hold it all together. I just drilled tiny .7mm holes and stuck them in place. Good(ish) weather meant for a nice afternoon walk and I was able to find a bit of twig which I used to make a log on which to mount the anvil. I've continued to make more tools for the bench, the range of difference size files and tongs is increasing nicely. From my pictures of old forges it looks like you can never have too many pairs of tongs. I also decided to model up some ammo boxes because there were quite a few lying about the shed at Thelkeld, someone will probably tell me I'm wrong, but the auction site I was checking out the pictures on claimed that the blue one was ex-RAF. I probably need some half-worn off stenciled markings. I think the overall effect is coming along rather nicely. I think I need some trays for the tools and probably some screwdrivers. I think the next thing is to try and make a forge, I'm not sure what form this will take, I think I have the option of something brick like this or a cast one like this. Any views anyone?

Everyone needs a workbench, my real one is generally cluttered with a PC, cutting mat, soldering iron and more tins of adhesive and paint than is good for your health. My 16mm workshop needs a workbench so I purchased some timber from Ely's wonderful City Cycles and went searching on the internet for images of 'vintage workbench UK' I am quite pleased with the result which looks pretty good to me covered in tools. I think I'm probably going to 3d print some bolt heads and add them to secure the legs together and to the top. I think the vice rather looks the part, but then I am a man with plenty of vices. David

I thought it looked a bit like a vital part of the Manhattan project myself! I just hope MI5 aren't monitoring my internet searches while I was looking for pictures of stainless steel pressure vessels. Most seemed to be associated with the engines of ICBMs David

I found pictures of a couple of interesting wagon loads on the Stour Valley line at Clare and Sudbury. I asked on the Scalefour Forum what these might be, wondering if the round tank might be a septic tank. In the end the consensus of opinion was that the cylindrical tank was probably a pressure vessel being installed as some kind of industrial plant. I decided to have a go and make them as wagon loads. I modeled these up and printed them out. I also modeled up a Fibre-glass septic-tank just for the fun of it. As wagon loads these look pretty good. Finally, and connected to my plans for a 16mm narrow gauge shed, I modeled up a bench vice based on the drawings in Roy Link's excellent Crow's Nest tramway book. I now need to make a workbench to attach it to. This is a cruel enlargement, the vice is actually 32mm tall. Lots of fun projects. David

A trip to Thelkeld gave an opportunity to get some more inspiration for my 16mm photo-plank. It was a rather windy and rainy day and being out-of-season trains were being operated by a Hudson diesel giving Sir Tom a rest. The shed doors were shut against the wind and the sky 'somewhat overcast'. A request in the office and the helpful folk were more than happy to let me take a look inside. Before going in I took a look at the inspection pit which is covered over by boards and a grate. I'd not seen this before as this is usually where Sir Tom sits between duties. Inside the shed Sir Tom rests and we get our first view of the inside of the shed, I'm sure the good folks at Thelkeld won't be offended if I describe it as 'workman like'. I took note of the sign inside the door, which was lucky as obviously I would have started tampering with machinery unless I had been specifically told not to! Every space is used for something in this shed, the bench grinder is on one corner of a clutter workbench with racks for files behind, hung off the beam are a large variety of hacksaws. Looking up in the far corner of the shed you can see the belt rollers which power an old lathe, against the wall behind the lathe is a pair of large bellows. I suspect that the umbrella may be required given the state of the roof. Opposite the lathe there is a belt driven pillar drill, the different pulleys gave different speeds. A little further along the wall is a belt driven milling machine, the old ammo boxes appear to hold various bits and machine tools. Looking back to the door the forest of timbers, drive shafts, belts and pulleys looks fascinating, there are additional milling and drilling machines at various positions in the shed. This belt driven lathe looks rather interesting. To provide a bit of heat the shed has a Tortoise stove, I've spotted that these were made in Halstead so maybe I also need to make some in 4mm as a wagon load for Clare! The top features a molded tortoise and the legend 'Slow but Sure Combustion'. I have a few more pictures if anyone is interested. As always I'd thoroughly recommend a visit to Thelkeld if you get the chance. There is so much there if you are interested in narrow gauge industrial railways and/or vintage industrial plant. David

How about modelling a very large lorry park

Looks great, I'll be interested to hear how you get on. David Barham

I've been having success with Humbrol Matt Cote (comes in a bottle rather than a tin). I found that the tins of Matt 49 tend to go white. David

Several years ago there was a conversation at Scaleforum (you know the one, I suggested to Brassmasters that they should produce an Easichas kit for a Hornby J15, they said great, go on and do the artwork then), now there is a kit available for purchase. The kit follows the usual Easichas principles utilising the existing Hornby motor and drive and providing new fold-up side frames and hornblocks to give springing on all axles. The kit can be built to either EM or P4 gauge. Replacement coupling rods are provided and brake gear on both the locomotive and tender can be removed to allow the wheels to be dropped out. The result is a sweat, smooth running locomotive. For details including a view of the etches and instructions take a look at the Brassmasters' site at http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/J15_easichas.htm To celebrate I made a little video following the progress of the pickup goods as it shunts at Clare. It has been a fun process working with the Brassmasters' guys on my first Easichas kit. I hope that it gives some people the impetus to convert their Hornby locomotives to EM and P4. thanks David

Nice bit of painting there. Just remember to go easy on the weathering later! David

In case my 16mm musings made folks fear I'd been loosing interest in the P4 I wanted to show you that I used the last few days to make some more uncouplers for Alex Jackson couplings. I thought I'd put some pictures on here to show what I'd been up to. The uncoupling magnets are made from two 3D printed parts with a plastruct tube insert, that gives a freer sliding movement that just making the 3D printed 'plunger' fit directly in the hole. The printer is not particularly well tuned at the moment but good enough for government work. The plastruct sleeve is stuck into the main part and a 6mm diameter x 2mm thick rare earth magnet is stuck on the top of the plunger. I usually put a second magnet on top to give extra oomph but this sticks under its own magnetism. The servo arm is extended with a length of wire which goes through the hole in the plunger. The wire has a little bit of spring which helps. The complete unit ready for installation.. The sleeve sticks up by just a bit less than the thickness of the baseboard plus the thickness of the cork underlay. The plastruct tube is a force fit into an 8mm hole so I drilled a hole in the track bed between the sleepers. I start off with a 2mm drill and then step it up until I get to the required 8mm, a bit of sanding cleans up the hole underneath. The uncoupler can then be installed by just pushing into the hole. There are a couple of holes for mounting screws in the base but I can fit these later. The plunger bit is on one corner of the part which means that it can be easily rotated to avoid other stuff like turnout operating mechanism, track feed droppers and baseboard bracing. The unit is tested prior to making good the hole in the ballast. This Hornby Horse box has been fitted with the Lanarkshire models Jackson coupling dropper http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_174.htm When the servo moves the plunger to the 'up' position the top of the magnet can been seen which pulls down the soft iron loop on the coupling. I stick a piece of grit paper over the hole and cover it with a thin layer of ballast, I've user ash ballast so I can see where the uncoupler is positioned. I'll weather it down so it is less obvious to the eye that isn't looking for it. And it still works..... If anyone wants the .STL file I'll stick it on Thingiverse. I've now fitted 4 on one baseboard over the weekend, I'll try and make a video of shunting over the next few days. David

I think the plan looks great. I don't know if it is of any use but I modeled up a barge in CAD earlier this year and printed one out in 4mm, just about 1' long. Happy to share .STL if you want it. David

Really agree with railroadbill, I love the workbenches and tools. The shed looks great too. David