GreenDiesel

Around 10-15 years ago, I used to buy several 00 items from eBay. I was often able to get some good deals and the shipping to Canada (where I live) was quite reasonable. Most vendors would use a UK international small parcel Air rate that was only a few Pounds, which I was happy to pay because it was reasonable. Now, however, it seems most vendors have to use the Global Shipping Calculator. So if I see an item for sale for (say) £20-25, I’m still required to pay anywhere from £10-20 in shipping, which totally defeats the purpose of scoring a deal on eBay. Has anyone else noticed this, especially folks overseas? In other words, I can no longer get good deals from eBay because any savings are eaten up by extremely high shipping costs. Thanks in advance. Rob

This actually looks REALLY good! Thinking of getting it. Thanks, Rob

Thanks! I'll check this. Rob

Thanks for this feedback above! I'm still trying to build up the "courage" to do this as the current model already looks great -- but would still be nice in Holly Green and fit in with a couple other early locos I'm running.

Thanks, Dave. I suspect you're right. There is a post on this forum where someone did an excellent job of painitng this model into a Holly Green. But I began to think that mine should be brighter since my model was around 15-20 years earlier. Cheers, Rob

I have a Hornby Drummond 700 class loco (it's currently in a very nicely weathered early-BR black) that I'd like to repaint into LSWR green. The green I'm aiming for is, I believe, a fairly bright green, that was used about 1900-05. The green that I'm interested in is circled in red below (this came from http://www.clag.org.uk/lswr-sr-liveries.html). Before I started repainting an otherwise fine-looking loco, I thought I'd double-check with LSWR fans here if this is still the correct or best green. I have some Humbrol paint that seems to be a good match. Thanks in advance. Rob

Have been just checking this -- this is EXACTLY what I want to do, same loco even. Thanks for posting this. So I guess I'm not crazy contemplating this!

Thanks for sending this. Will check it out. R

Thanks. I'm still tempted to do this but my model has been so nicely weathered in BR black, that it makes me a little reluctant. How difficult would it be to remove its loco body & tender body, and what spray paint would be most recommended? TIA, Rob

Thanks -- this is helpful!

I have a Hornby Drummond 700 Class. It runs really well on my shunting layout. It's currently in early BR livery (lion/wheel emblem), numbered 30316. It's also been very nicely (but lightly) weathered by Hornby. I'm thinking of backdating it to LSWR if I can get up the courage. I think the correct number would be 450 and that the loco would still be black (not bright green). Could anyone please confirm if this is correct? And, if I were to purchase transfers, I suspect Fox would be one of the best sources? Thanks in advance.

I'd be interested to find out more about these. I'll google them. Rob

Hi... Just saw this! No, I haven't found a solution. Uncoupling works on some wagons but not others. In the end, I've been using a homemade uncoupler -- I got the "plans" or instructions for making this from one of the very first Hornby Magazines and it works great. An uncoupling ramp would look and work better, but, yes, I gave up on them and now use this uncoupler device instead.

Thanks! The reviews on Youtube are also very positive. I'll check out TMC, especially if you recommend them.

A few random questions here... I'm interested in the Graham Farish 3F -- 372-210A. Has anyone purchased this loco and, if so, do you have any comments re its quality and running ability? My layout has some tight 9" radius curves, which hopefully won't be too tight for it. I've also checked a few of main model venders and get the impression that they're rather low in stock, maybe due to sales during COVID? Mods, please feel to move this post if it's in the wrong place. Thanks, Rob

I just tried this and it definitely made an improvement. Thanks for suggesting this! It runs better forwards than in reverse. In reverse, it doesn't stall, but it's not consistent and smooth. It moves slowly then kind of lunges and then moves slowly again. This is what it was doing before but less extreme. At any rate, it's an improvement. I'll keep tinkering.

Thx! I see what you mean. I’ve often been tempted to get the Baccy version and may consider that.

Thanks again for the info above. I was away for a bit and am just getting back to my layout and work, etc.

Thanks for your feedback. In what ways, though, are Railroad models actually toys? Sure, they're more basic (less detail) but my SDJR 3F does look like an actual 3F and runs reasonably well. If it were really a toy, would it not be out of proportion, have major scale problems, and only vaguely resemble the real thing? My understanding was that the Railroad items were still scale models, just more basic and less detailed. Not being sarcastic or anything, just a friendly question. :-)

Thanks for this feedback! I’m using a Gaugemaster controller. Located in Canada so it’s called something else. Will follow up with these suggestions.

OK, I just did some googling and it seems the best way is to remove the loco's driving wheels and make adjustments. This sounds like a bit to much surgery for me, for what is really a minor problem. I was hoping there might be a quick tweak I could try that might improve it.

Not that old, by my standards. I bought it new about 4-5 years ago. As mentioned, it's part of Hornby's Railroad range.

I have the Hornby R3498 SDJR 3F loco. It runs reasonably well but I think it could be better. When running very slowly, it's not totally smooth, almost a little jerky. It runs slow, slightly surges ahead, then runs slow. I suspect it's quartering may be a little off. Does anyone know how to improve that?

Thanks for this feedback. Still seems a little confusing. I do have an old but very good controller. So I suppose my best option, as suggested, is to get a budget DCC system that would work with it.