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sej

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Posts posted by sej

  1. Ah, thanks very much for the advice Sandy and Warren...earlier this morning, heart in mouth (if that's the right phrase) I sprayed everything with a half and half mix of Ronseal Matt and Satin varnish with 50% white spirit, and so far nothing un-toward has happened...fingers crossed that tomorrow morning it will be properly dry with no blooming or other horrors!

    post-7598-0-69260900-1470946655_thumb.jpg

    Cheers

    Simon

     

     

     

    • Like 8
  2. Great thread and the Spinner looks fantastic.  One observation though: the crimson lake finish looks rather dull.  I know people have views on whether gloss finishes work in smaller scales but F. C. Hambleton in Locomotives Worth Modelling has a very florid description of how well groomed these locomotives were always kept.

     

    Thanks Lyonesse, it's an interesting question isn't it, that of relative shininess! The paint is Precision Crimson Lake and classed as "dull"; I think I might have used gloss if it were available, if only to help with the lining out. In fact I very rarely use gloss and particularly in 2mm scale there is the concept of viewing distances and so on.. Having said that, all my reference photos of the Spinner in the NRM, show it to have a very fine shine. So what to do? It's a minefield! I'm going to experiment with some Ronseal satin varnish and see what that does (on an old Airfix kit first)! Or perhaps a bit of polishing with nylon brush in the mini-drill?

     

    Cheers

    Simon

    • Like 1
  3. Thanks Jerry, the single wheelers are really beautiful locomotives, I think the GW Dean Singles just beat the Spinners into 2nd place, but only just!

    Here's some more 2mm progress:

    I built up some details using various bits and pieces to produce the smokebox door.

    post-7598-0-11773300-1465747624_thumb.jpg

     

    The driving wheel axlebox and springs...

    post-7598-0-62874000-1465747653_thumb.jpg

    post-7598-0-65999400-1465747692_thumb.jpg

     

    And the whistle...

    post-7598-0-09193700-1465747720_thumb.jpg

    post-7598-0-96483800-1465747742_thumb.jpg

     

    And here she is with the NBrass boiler fittings in place.

    post-7598-0-63050800-1465747767_thumb.jpg

    post-7598-0-25067800-1465747795_thumb.jpg

    Cheers

    Simon

     

    • Like 9
  4. Thanks Peter, very kind of you to say so!

     

    More spinning:

     

    I mark any "tight" spots where the boiler pushes the splashers outwards.

    post-7598-0-33135700-1462820882_thumb.jpg

     

    Then use a cylindrical oil stone to shape the splashers for a good fit.

    post-7598-0-50772600-1462820901_thumb.jpg

     

    I marked out a little fold-up smoke-box saddle.

    post-7598-0-30407000-1462820931_thumb.jpg

     

    Checked the level with the boiler/smokebox in place.

    post-7598-0-20671300-1462820956_thumb.jpg

     

    Soldered on the wrapper.

    post-7598-0-32719400-1462820983_thumb.jpg

     

    For a final check.

    post-7598-0-79911300-1462821033_thumb.jpg

     

    The small gap at the bottom of the firebox is filled later by some little covers.

     

    Cheers

    Simon

     

     

    • Like 9
  5. Hi Warren, is that the livery with all the little curlicue fiddly bits? I would need my single badger-bristle brush and the ability to slow my heart rate to prevent unnecessary seismic movements, so sadly no. LMS livery is good for me I think. However, when I get round to a 7mm version...perhaps you might be interested?

     

    Here's some 2mm progress.

     

    I sanded a slight bevel into the edges of the splashers to help seat the tops...

    post-7598-0-18761500-1462351280_thumb.jpg

     

    Which were formed from rolled strips of thin nickel-silver.

    post-7598-0-02649300-1462351299_thumb.jpg

     

    These were soldered from inside...

    post-7598-0-58414600-1462351332_thumb.jpg

     

    With the curves smoothed to join the footplate.

    post-7598-0-56287000-1462351386_thumb.jpg

     

    Cheers

    Simon

     

     

    • Like 13
  6. Continuing with the N gauge Spinner, I've cut the side frames and built up the drag and buffer beams.

    post-7598-0-41285400-1460230760_thumb.jpg

     

    Then soldered them together using a temporary spacer to keep everything square and in-line.

    post-7598-0-83296600-1460230786_thumb.jpg

     

    The central spacer is then replaced by some stiffening pieces.

    post-7598-0-39177900-1460230816_thumb.jpg

     

    Which stop the frames flexing out of shape while the curved footplate is soldered on from inside and underneath.

    post-7598-0-43317600-1460230842_thumb.jpg

     

    To produce this, once the extra length has been carefully trimmed off and the stiffeners removed.

    post-7598-0-56141200-1460230869_thumb.jpg

     

    Which is very similar to how I made the curved footplate on my 7mm "Earl Cawdor"- except very very much smaller!

    Cheers

    Simon

    • Like 5
  7. I've had a go at making the drivers a little more visually pleasing, so with lots of slithers of plasticard, super-glue, sanding, sanding and more sanding and then a quick blast of black primer, I'm beginning to get there...another one to go. If anyone out there is interested in producing some finescale N-Gauge driving wheels I'll be first in the queue!

     

    post-7598-0-95199100-1458588241_thumb.jpg

     

    Cheers

    Simon

     

    • Like 2
  8. Thankyou everyone, and yes, the RSU and I are still battling it out and occasionally I win.

     

    I'm busily engaged in some more N-Gauge scratch-building with a rather experimental looking lash-up so far...

     

    post-7598-0-35761900-1457650999_thumb.jpg

     

    post-7598-0-33278300-1457650966_thumb.jpg

     

    post-7598-0-05914800-1457651027_thumb.jpg

     

    (The RSU may be pressed into service again very soon.)

     

     

    Oh, and Pugs! I'm building some white-metal Pugs!

     

    post-7598-0-03933700-1457651158_thumb.jpg

     

    Cheers

    Simon

     

     

     

     

    • Like 3
  9. I made up an axle box for the tender from plasticard, brass rod and Archer rivet transfers. The extra length of plasticard was useful as a handle whilst I worked on the box.

    post-7598-0-66864800-1457269255_thumb.jpg

     

    The box is then used to make a rubber mould so I don't have to make six of the blighters.

    post-7598-0-34739300-1457269276_thumb.jpg

     

    Mustard spoons from the fleamarket, cut down plastic cups and coffee spills are used for mixing the two part rubber ingredients, all of the bubbles seem to be able to make their way quite happily to the surface. The mould takes about 24 hours to cure properly.

    post-7598-0-44045800-1457269310_thumb.jpg

     

    The resin is mixed in the same way and is much quicker to set, about 40 minutes although I give it a good day to harden out of the mould before finishing and spraying with a black plastic primer.

    post-7598-0-74112300-1457269357_thumb.jpg

    • Like 5
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