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Dad-1

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  1. Dad-1
    I was quite pleased with my wiring and as I'm finishing the last few paint touch-ups
    thought I'd have one last look before this is sealed in forever. The Lenz decoder
    tucked in it's wee void.
     

     
    I did a few internal fittings, although exactly what a C1930 -1940's petrol conversion
    would have is open to suggestions. At least there is something, but with a driver leaning
    out of one side visibility will be much restricted.
     

     
    I recently had the chance to run, but only had a few wagons available, the load of
    6 wagons was obviously very easy. Tomorrow is club night and I may take a box of
    30 wagons to find the absolute limit !!
     
    Geoff T.
  2. Dad-1
    It had to be done. Although the Lenz mini decoder is small there was too much wire to loose,
    even after removing fully those 3 feeds I didn't have a use for it was going to be tight.
    The Hornby decoder is quite small but in comparison it's huge !!
     

     
    I decided to cut down the 4 leads I wanted
     

     
    With a small piece of plasticard blanking off the void I managed to tuck the shortened leads
    and decoder out of sight. All that remains visible are the spud DCC conversion wires that
    will end up with a coat of black paint as will the cab floor.
     

     
    I need to re-address and check out running before I seal the decoder in forever by sticking
    the cab roof on and attaching the spud & body together.
    Still loads of painting to do before the exhaust pipe is re-attached.
     
    Now to the loft to test running.
     
    Dad-1
  3. Dad-1
    I have this 'Thing' about loose unused wires on decoders. In short I can't stand
    having extra wires that I'm not going to use getting in the way and if not covered
    suitably with masking tape offering a potential short and with it decoder death !!
     
    In no way is this a criticism of decoder manufacturers as they need to offer a large
    range of user options. The Lenz silver mini decoder that I have to put in my Roxey
    'Minnie' needs to be as compact as possible so I decided to use my small soldering
    iron to remove the blue/white/yellow leads. With a tip smaller than a pin head and
    allowed to fully heat up it's just a momentary touch to remove those leads unwanted
    by me.
     

     
    I'm quite pleased with my radiator conversion, note the chrome dress making pin head
    filler cap .... it'll dull down when weathered.
    I don't undercoat, but many white metal castings seem to absorb paint, as you see under
    the exhaust pipe. I'll have to treat this as a primer, do another as the undercoat, with
    one final pass for my finishing coat. Why did I pick green ? as happened so often in real
    life it's because I have it, 3 tins of Humbrol emerald green to use up sometime !!
     

     
    After a study of the four parts that make up the cab I need to make a jig to hold in place
    for glueing. Oh also need an instrument panel with a few control levers and see if I have
    a suitable figure to add as driver.
     
    Having great fun !!
     
    Dad-1
  4. Dad-1
    My decoder arrived today with quite a few points, but I shall be lucky to get soldered in this
    weekend.
    My radiator has it's grille, but somehow the top edge is not fitting neatly into the beading.
    I'll probably have to attack with a new scalpel blade, but seeing anything this small is a strain.
    The camera shows every little error, if only my eyes were that good.
     

     
    The 3/4 windows are in, but I wouldn't be surprised to dislodge as I build together. Because
    internal access will be almost impossible I've also painted the interior sections cream. Obviously
    the internal corners will need painting after assembly, but I think I'll get away with that.
     
    Dad-1
  5. Dad-1
    I've gone as far as I can before delivery of the required decoder, here is the current state of production.
     
    Being built as an internal combustion engined loco it needs a radiator. I finally decided that would be placed
    alongside the supplied white metal exhaust system on what can be thought of as the rear. To start I've added
    a beading from fine microstrip, I can see from the photo a little corner blending is still needed. Into this space
    I intend fixing a piece of net curtain to represent the protective grille. centrally along the top I need to add a
    radiator filler cap.
     

     
    DCC conversion of a Tenshodo spud is easy enough, but I don't think I would want to try without a mini drill fitted
    with a slitting disc. First is cutting & removing the lower part of the motor feed contacts from the spud sides. To achieve
    this without risk of damaging wheels I opened by releasing the single securing screw and unclipping. There was no
    factory lubrication so a miniscule spot of silicone grease was added to each gear set before reassembly. Here the
    removed sections can be seen above the screw.
     

     
    Short leads are soldered to the ground off track feeds and the top motor feed tags, then fed through the openings
    drilled & filed into the footplate.
     

     
    Finally an old but working decoder is soldered in to test that all is working as it should. To start with I had no response on
    default address 3, then I remembered last used this had address 1 ......... and that worked fine !!
     

     
    When my mini decoder comes this will be built into the model, no future access without pulling apart. It just has to be right
    first time.
     
    Dad-1
  6. Dad-1
    We all know it should be planning and then progress, but I'm one who only reads the instructions when all else fails.
    Perhaps not quite that bad ?
     
    By joining the sides to a footplate beam I worked out I could hold together with a couple of elastic bands. It gives me an
    overall view from which to make my changes.
     

     
    Those handrail mountings all but block off the entrance, they have to go and handrails will run down the outside. I've also
    decided that the cab windows will be fixed 3/4 glazed. To have safe movement you need to see, but this simple machine
    has no window wipers, de-icing, or de-misting equipment. That open upper 1/4 provides that, you don't even need to clean
    the windows !!
    A decoder test, if a Hornby one will fit the Lenz mini should have oceans of space. Now to open out all the required wire routes.
     

     
    I tried drilling for my brass handrails, but unable to get a vertical angle the lower hole to the left is way out. I'll have to de-bond
    the two parts to get access, re-drill as needed. Even the exhaust system is now plugged on, my radiator will be represented
    by a square of beading with a mesh insert on the other rearward half alongside that exhaust.
     

     
    So far so good.
     
    Dad-1
  7. Dad-1
    Not only did I enjoy making up the Roxey 'Howard' industrial yard loco, but it performs very well.
    I have this plan for a yard alongside Westbay Wagon Works and one internal combustion shunter
    is probably all that's needed, but for the sheer hell of it I thought I'd make the miniture 0-4-0 tram
    type loco. I never wanted overhead lines so mine will have to deviate from the prototypical version
    by having a smallish petrol engine. Not exactly unheard of as such Simplex traction was used to
    supply the trenches in WWI.
    This will represent the old yard loco that remains to provide support should the other fail, but kept
    in good running condition with perhaps a view to preservation.
    My crazy mind has decided it's fitted with a 6 cylinder 2358 cc side valve petrol engine with two gears
    providing a maximum speed of 10 mph. A transfer box with a single lever control with forward, neutral,
    reverse and chain drive to both axles. It should happily push, or pull one wagon, no doubt the actual
    model will do more than that.
    So here are the parts :-
     

     
    It will need a few extra holes drilling as I run DCC and I'm going to use another Lenz Silver Mini. The
    Tenshodo spud fits into a recess in the footplate, here one extra hole drilled to take a track feed into
    the cab where the decoder will find a home.
     

     
    Still not certain if I'll solder, or glue, My Howard glued together so well & easily I may try that first.
     
    Dad-1.
  8. Dad-1
    My little Roxey shunter was working O.K, but showed considerable differences in running ability depending on direction of movement.
    Even stalls on clean straight level track when running at slow speeds I want, let alone stalling on insulated frog points.
    Everything was clean and adjusted correctly, the only obvious discrepancy was the weight balance, being much heavier at the cab end.
    Failure was in my opinion a failure to pick up current from the track, be it wheel to track, or wheel to motor contact wipers. I decided to try
    rubbing the wheel rear faces with a pencil, rubbing the wheel treads with particular care to the flanges as the B2B was slightly wide, and
    finishing off rubbing the track head in the locations of stalls.
     
    I could never have imagined the improvement this gave. I have quite equal running qualities in either direction and although these Tenshodo
    SPUDS have no reduction gearing I am getting slow running to an acceptable & useable level. There is some aparent jerkyness, although
    some of that is the small wheels crossing turnout frogs. The wagon is from a Parkside Dundas 10 ton insulated van kit.
     

     
    A warning - remove track current, I burnt my finger when I accidently shorted the graphite pencil across an insulated frog, Boy did it spark !!
     
    Dad-1
  9. Dad-1
    'Fifi' the 0-4-0 yard loco together and passed a running test. It is strange though how it runs much better in reverse
    than forward. How can that be ? a 24.5 mm wheelbase had me expecting stalls on insulated frog points, however it
    crosses fine at a very low speed in reverse, but needs quite a bit more 'welly' when going forward. A lengthy train,
    way beyond anything this would be expected to pull, or push makes no difference. It'll work with 10 wagons no problem.
     
    Here it is alongside my 06, the comparison shows just how small it is. Being white metal it is rather heavy, yet I'll still add
    some ballast under the front because the weight sits heavily to the cab end. I have tried some white lining using an old
    reclaimed bow-pen, it's rubbish, but I have to learn on something !! I can always re-paint the whole thing !!
     

     
    Dad-1
  10. Dad-1
    Last posting introduced the Roxey Mouldings 'Howard' 0-4-0 shunting/yard loco.
    The Tenshodo SPUD had to be DCC converted, very easy with a slitting disc, a problem without !!
     
    I needed to thoroughly test & run-in using my only spare decoder a Hornby R8249 that had been taken out
    of something else, exactly why I can't recall. Here it is a speed faster than the original could go, but ideal for
    my purpose. It will go down to a very slow speed and will probably be better for adjusting back EMF settings
    on the Lenz sliver mini decoder on order for this job.
     
    Video available here :-
     
    Now I know how well it works it's time to take the decoder out again to start painting. Then while that drys I can
    build up the cab where I've already painted the interiors prior to assembly.
     
    So far I really like it, easy to make, runs well, and just what I wanted !!
     
    Geoff T.
  11. Dad-1
    Most of the traction I want, or need is available from major manufacturers, but for once I need something different. I'm planning
    a non- railway company yard with a wagon works. To move wagons for repair I wanted a small shunting locomotive, in such an
    environment it had to be something not used by operating companies. After looking around I came across the 'Howard' 0-4-0
    by Roxey Mouldings, a small diesel loco in white metal.
    I've not worked with white metal other than figures & although I once bought low melt solder & Carr's red flux I can't find the stuff !!
    I decided to go the superglue way using Loctite which is of a reasonable quality, not like the cheap market stall stuff. It'll also be DCC
    so one first check was to see where the decoder could go.
     

     
    Now the footplate, frames & headstocks attached. My current job is cutting & adding glazing to cab windows before I can join that.
    I have run it back & forth on DC just to make certain what's been done is O.K.
     

     
    Dad-1
  12. Dad-1
    Often when I say I hate painting I get a reply saying they like it as it starts to bring a model to life. Well I STILL
    hate painting !! All that work, making, modifying, sits there with great promise ...... and can be ruined with a
    poor application of paint. Such a happening simply knocks the enthusiasm out of me as is happening today.
    Here was/is my Parkside Dundas Southern BY Utility van, sitting in it's malachite green (Humbrol 2 with added
    blue)

     
    Having kept the guards chimney I needed to add orangy panels to each top corner and guards entrance door.
    Well a new tin of Humbrol Matt 82 orange was opened - the new sludge variety. Stirred very thoroughly and then
    some more, but the sludge contents didn't mellow into a paint.
    I tried using a nice small brush, but the paint wouldn't flow, didn't cover well & dried as I looked at it !!. Believe me
    it looks much worse in real life than the picture shows.

     
    What to do !! I hate Humbrol current quality, or should I say lack off. This is not the first trouble I've had in the last few
    years. Like just putting a matt varnish on plasticard, it was a thick sludge when opened & stirred. It only took a short
    while to realise it just wasn't going to work, so I stopped & have yet to return to this building. Back 20-30 years ago I
    had few if any problems with Humbrol paints used on my exhibition quality aircraft models.

     
    Dad-1
  13. Dad-1
    Following my last posting here is the other side of the main road bridge.
     

     
    Road painted, but awaiting white lining. Heavy traffic on a busy holiday wekend. I use several vehicles to judge if the road width gives me what I want. One day, after grassing all the embankments this side I'll be able to start on the river. I wonder how much resin water this will take !!??
     
    Dad-1
  14. Dad-1
    Laying in my shed looked at frequently, but worked on occasionally my 'Big' layout Castell Mawr
    has progressed slightly. One thing so few layouts have is a raised embankment section of any
    length where you can look up, or the camera can, to passing rail traffic.
    Today I finished grassing one part of embankment that is now completed from main road under
    bridge to this boards edge.
     

     
    I am having to look for suitable old brick colour paint, some testing was done with Humbrol 70, but
    I'm not at all happy with it. Looking through the Humbrol range I can see nothing to suit my eye.
    Although expensive in comparison I think I may have to look at War Gaming acrylics unless anyone
    here has a suitable suggestion.
     
    Dad-1
  15. Dad-1
    I think it's neat anyway and it's my railway !!
    With that rocketing cost of rollingstock I'm quite pleased I started kit building. The current Bachmann BR std brake vans
    are coming out at close on £21. No denying the quality, but when the same Liverpool shed has the Dapol (ex-Airfix) brake van
    going for just £4.39 it's worth trying. I feel I'm an experienced plastic model maker so decided I could afford to invest in a
    Train-Tech module at £15. I bought the flicker module AL2, O.K I got 2, but only one used at present in the Dapol van.
     
    Here it is with the LED glowing on the lowpower output. Easy enough to cut off pins & solder onto dolls house twin flex.
    There is a second output that has a yellow LED which I used to light up the van interior. Still have to fix the side step boards
    and find a suitable way of having a secure, but removeable roof to replace the battery if/when it needs changing. They do
    have a movement detector and switch off when no movement, either stored, or left in a siding for a while.
     

     
    Oh, behind that is a Cambrian Kits Southern Borail wagon with some 60 ft lengths of new rails ...... Wagon building won't save
    you much money, but it'll add interest to you stock !!
     
    Dad-1
  16. Dad-1
    I've been on a marathon wagon building spree, oh as well as doing the clubs exhibition 'Thomas' layout.
    Wagon kits of all makes, Ratio, Parkside Dundas, Cambrian, Dapol. I can't back-track on all and for
    photography few have been fully finished by weathering.
    Just a taster of photos :-
    3 x Dapol Prestwins

    Dapol Presflo

    Parkside Dundas Plate & LMS CCT

    Thomas Layout


     
    I suppose I should get on here more often !!
     
    Dad-1
  17. Dad-1
    I'm not a frequend poster on here.
    I prefer to be working on something rather than be on-line. Trouble is I've just painted the loft
    hatch and can't get in there today.
     
    Still, it's like this ...... At Warley I saw a Parkside Dundas wagon kit, one promised by Bachmann
    many moons ago, the 22 ton tube wagon. Having spent what seems like a lifetime making scale aircraft
    kits I thought why not .... it's only £9 & could be fun.
     
    It was fun & I kind of caught the bug, purchased 4 more steel industry wagons & since 22nd November
    have made up all 5. I was, & to some degree still am concerned of the running qualities, both pulled
    & pushed, as well as how robust they will be in regular use. I've been adding weight and trying to
    match coupling heights & still have some way to go before I'll be satisfied, suffering some over-ride
    when pushing 10+ wagon trains.
     
    Here we have the set
     

     
    I still need to source transfers & finish painting, but good running was THE important aspect.
    Since that Have bought 3 GWR Ratio 4 wheel coaches.
    What I should be doing is finishing some of the many pending jobs .....
     
    Dad-1
  18. Dad-1
    My little 18" x 10" diorama is getting close to being finished. Had I not left all my stiff glueing brushes at the caravan
    yesterday I would have grassed the embankment last evening.
    Took this and thought I'd share, a nice little Welsh valley rail bridge with mountain stream & pub. I'm still trying to get
    the right quality of Rhymney beers logo to attach to the pub. Also need to purchase Deluxe Products resin water for
    my stream.
     

     
    I love dioramas, they take no more than 8 weeks and then you can move on to other ideas. What was that ? The trains
    don't work ? True you don't have far to drive, but a sound steam loco simmering is very nice !!
     
    Dad-1
  19. Dad-1
    Having lost the caravan to family for the whole month of August & now having tidied it up I
    may get some time for me.
    What I did was this small diorama when exiled & although still not finished it's well on the way.
    First we have a lighting test, two grain of wheat bulbs connected in series under the bridge so they
    stay well below maximum output & a 100R resistor in the pub lamps wiring.
     

     
    First grass laid today, but it became quite warm, drying out the pva mix more quickly than I wanted.
    Perhaps some more tonight after this ?
     

     
    I now urgently need to replace the pub sign with the my new one, make up two spotlights (non working)
    replacing my first oversize attempt. I'm quite pleased with results so far for just 1 months work.
     
    Dad-1
  20. Dad-1
    Rather than getting on with long term layouts I've allowed myself to be distracted again.
    Is it a case of a change is as good as a rest ?
     
    Anyway I ended up with a requirement for a pub to fill an awkward corner. The whole thing, a corner filler needing to be an odd shape
    meant bespoke window frames made from microstrip & scrap plastic. As yet not fitted due to my satin black is being slow to dry, but here is the
    current state of play.
     

     
    I've come to the conclusion I love diorama scenes. No electrics needed, no turnouts, in fact little if any stock. Just hours of fun, cutting,
    scraping, glueing, painting to make that 3D picture floating in your minds eye !
     
    Need to get the railway set up as my 3 year old grandson will be here soon.
     
    Dad-1
  21. Dad-1
    My current excuse for being so slow with that main layout is that I get easily diverted on to other jobs.
    This makes 2 posting in one week .................
     
    Bridport & Dist MRC had it's main exhibition on Saturday, I had a call on Tuesday to see if I could bring a layout to
    replace a cancellation. Later I found out that there was a 12 foot space which was no good as my layouts are both
    somewhat longer than that. I suggested that I could do some demonstration work, with a couple of dioramas on display
    alongside me, Thursday I had confirmation ....... I looked around for a small piece of waste ply & decided on a small
    rural/farm scene and roughly stitch drilled a hole for a small pond. I made a small piece of rising ground from packing
    sponge foam and sealed down using strips of kitchen towel soaked in PVA, from neat to ballast strength. I even used
    one small piece of uncovered foam and laid grass over it ........ Wait for Saturday to check results, it worked out fine !!
     
    Here is the article made up during the exhibition !! Not perfect, but with ballasting a track sample & making a plastic
    6 x 8 garden shed not a bad days work !!
     

     
    Still have a croaky voice from talking too much ........
     
    Dad-1
  22. Dad-1
    Ahh we do like to have a little moan ....... Too wet, Too cold, Too hot ........
    I can hardly believe that it's taken over 2 years to get from this :-
     

     
    To This :-
     

     
    At this rate, when finished, I'll be too old to to get it from the garage & assemble !!
     
    They say the journey is more important than the destination - perhaps that was said
    by a railway modeller ?
     
    Dad-1
  23. Dad-1
    Never enough time, never enough space ............
    Since moving in December I've not done much on the planned big layout Castell Mawr.
    It's too big to work on more than one board at a time, frequently needing 2 or 3 joined
    together to visualise what I want ..... and work out how to do it !!
    The recent few rain free days have had me getting some work done, before we're away
    to the holiday caravan by the coast.
     
    Firstly 3 boards were put together, interesting that the bungalow is on a steep slope &
    allows high 'helicopter' views.
     

     
    Then as can be seen my cutting is fully grassed by the operating desk.
     

     
    Limited progress, but at least it is progress ....... at this rate it'll take 2 more years ?
    Note the small wild animal paths up the cutting sides, these are all over the countryside
    if you look.
     
    Dad-1
  24. Dad-1
    6 weeks since I posted and in truth not a lot done.
    Family members are having the caravan this weekend so I had to do something
    with Shillingstones Lane. Pt.I shown in the last posting was all but finished
    however Pt.II was sitting unloved so I brought home and added some grass, fixed
    (although not painted) fencing around the cottage then planted a real height
    tree roughly a 44 footer.
     

     
    I enjoy the making up of a scene, much more relaxing for me than trying to copy
    some existing location. I think it's been good use of a space 16 inches x 26 inches.
    Now I have to work out the best way to join Pt.I & Pt.II !
     
    Dad-1
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