richbrummitt

I have not used the Archers rivets. They are transfers and I have recently started using transfers: I got much better results with transfers if applied to a gloss surface (varnish in my case) and gloss varnish afterwards also. Then I go for matt or satin to suit what I want the final finish to be. I would do the same for the Archer sheets.

Yesterday I had a more successful print. I tried a few things on the one build: - lift speed reduced from 90 to 60mm/min - a single row of churns flat on the plate - the current 15x4 array of churns flat on the plate - inclination of the array above on supports - array parallel to the build plate but lifted 5mm with a skate raft. The skate raft made the print easy to remove from the plate but this last print did not survive. I had my first stuck to FEP print with this one. Unsurprising that the build tore apart at the support/part interface even with 90% support density and medium weight supports. Watching the print drain after finishing shows that the array really can hold a good amount of uncured resin. The inclined array drained a little better but there was still a good amount of liquid resin suspended between the churns at the lowest point. When I removed the plate with the parts on I used a thin plastic scraper to move the resin from between all the parts and dabbed them off with a paper towel. This released a fair amount of resin back to the vat. I proceeded to separate and wash as per usual. Here the prints that survived. That last shows some warping. I believe this will be the supports not being of sufficient density. I had to add all the supports individually on this one because the auto generated ones were looking awful. Short version is that none exhibited the phenomenon encountered previously. There is another variable that I’ve thought of this morning. Does anyone else have LED down lighters in the room with their printer? I’m sure I had the lights off yesterday and they could have been on previously. There are many variables in my ‘test’ of yesterday (it’s not a good test) so I will print the original file again today and see what happens this time.

Milestone reached: The rest of the chairs are in place for this piece. The check rails were cut to length filed down in profile and the flares bent. That turned out to be a bit too much flare and had to be bent back on the first test fit. Waiting to be fixed in place. I’ve had a quick test with a couple of wagons. A six wheeled siphon and GE mac (at least I think that’s what it is) were to hand. There’s a tendency for the wheel to just catch the nose on the lower route. Hopefully the check rails will sort that out. After all that is their purpose. Then the gapping will be sorted. I’ve marked the location on one wing/closure rail so I can remember where it’s meant to be now the plan is largely obscured.

Fitting the closure rail for the first siding has taken a while for reasons mentioned previously. First the remaining slide chairs were fixed in place and a short piece fitted between two switch rails. Next the wing rail. Well, rails, since I cut bent and filed both while I could remember the bend lengths after looking them up. Bend and file the rail head Measure, trim, measure again, repeat as required, clamp measure numerous times and when it’s right another small bend It’s only half a rail width flare so a tiny bend. Then check the fit. The ‘straight’ closure rail now fitted I’ve now spotted a few items of work still to do beyond fitting the the last three rails for this turnout: one of the switch blades needs a trim at the heel where it’s a touch long; there is a slide chair bridging an isolation gap; and the wing rail I just fitted needs splitting to create the separate electrical section for the crossing. I’ve failed to plan for that last one and there’s 20mm board thickness there. Oh bother.

It’s meant to be a full load of churns and they went 15x4 in a slat sides van. I could split them into individual rows of else fails. The resin has 7 months left on it according to the bottle and the thermostat is at 19-20 Celsius when I’ve been printing. Humidity is ?? and I don’t have a measuring tool for that to hand. How much shaking to mix does the resin need before pouring? Perhaps I am being overly vigorous.

That's what I thought, since how do people get these lovely fine details and definitions on prints. The cover was left on after the print - I literally started it and left it to finish and then left it a while longer before I got around to taking the plate off and cleaning up. Will the cover let UV light in? My assumption was that the colour was chosen deliberately to filter most visible light out. This milk churn load is easier to remove from the build plate than the rooks were. I had a real fight with those! I went looking for a box of razor blades because I know I had some around 9 years ago but I do not know which box in what room they are in. $60 for a pair of flexible build plates seems a better option to me. Hopefully I can just leave the head on the Z axis and change the plates in and out. The whole print is 54x15x5.5mm and that volume is less than 50% filled so it is not using much resin. I am therefore not putting much resin in the machine. I am printing standard settings - 0.05mm layers. I think it is 2.5s/layer after the base layers at 35s. The problem is not uniform or consistent across the print. Yesterday I printed another from the same .ctb file (madness, I know) and resolved to clean it straight after it finished. It does seem I have a problem with the draining resin curing because I again had the problem of a very thin film of resin curing on the build plate before I had got the print off the plate. I did manage to clean it off with alcohol and scraping this time because it was a bit thinner. Does the standard grey resin really start to cure in room/daylight after only a few minutes? The part is better but still has significant areas of globs. There are some areas that have come out exactly as they should have, but not many. One thing I did manage to do was cure the part with far less warping. It will always warp some because of the geometry but I'm happy with how flat I did manage to get this time. Some really helpful pointers there @njee20. Any tips for how to get rid of the bubbles in the resin? It does seem good at holding bubbles and I think that might be a contributing factor. Some of the affected areas are not at the base but a non-planar film further up the cones.

Looks so much better now it’s in in rather than plonked. The knights will be pleased about the shrubbery. The contours are perfect for tiered effects.

I think it will look a lot better with the height as it should be (5mm lower). It only looks odd to me because it is so much larger than the adjacent fence. Your post above explains all.

Which wash and cure do you have? The anycubic one that I've seen doesn't appear to be large enough for even the Mars Pro 2 build plate, let alone the Saturn. I see further up in replies you say you have/had both of these so am curious.

You can grind/stone the smaller ones up to make D shaped drills. You may be able to repurpose larger sizes as (form) tools for a lathe, if you have one and can hold them reliably. Finally they could possibly be repurposed as locating pins in your chassis?

My bench is more like Chris’. I made a conscious decision not to clear enough working space and am building the track for Ogbourne on my lap and when my lap isn’t near the workbench the sub-baseboard the track is being built on resides atop the bin in the middle of the room adjacent to the chair. Hopefully not a sign of things to come.

Sometimes little things make you happy. I remembered to slide all the required chairs on before starting to solder any this evening. The other stock rail is now taking shape and the flow of track is becoming visible. I’ll get the slide chairs in still and there are deliberately a couple by the heel where the rails are too close for two plain chairs. Some butchery of slide chairs is required here once the closure rails go in and they too can be easily slipped into place later. I feel like I’m getting my eye in for these chairs now.

This is the print with the issue They’re 2mm milk churns. This is how the geometry should look, though this is a bit scruffy too because it’s off an FDM and the resolution does not really support the size. The slice file looks fine with only a few layers at the bottom being rectangle shaped (as they should be to tie the whole load together)

Please excuse me for jumping in here rather than starting a new thread. I’ve thought about a printer since I nearly backed the Form 1 on Kickstarter. Last week I saw the Mars Pro 2 on Amazon was in stock and clicked buy. The rook printed great but getting it off the build plate was a mission. I followed up with a print of something of my own design using the default settings in Chitubox and flat to the build plate. This came away a little more easily but I had left it in the printer draining/dripping for a couple of hours after the print ended and there was a globular setting all around the first 1mm or so of height within the part plus a cured film of resin of variable thickness all across the build plate. I couldn’t scrape this off and resorted to gently sanding it away with medium grit paper. I’m using elegoo standard grey resin. I think I found an answer to my first problem in a flexible build plate. Internet searching led me to Wham Bam who just brought out a size for the 2P. For peace of mind I decided the build plate ought to be levelled for every print given the force required to remove prints and that means removing the resin vat (maybe with resin in if this is a follow on print). With a flexible build plate it should mean the build plate does not require regular levelling, even though it’s not difficult. I could not find any information on the build plate resin issue. I assumed it would be okay left for a while to drain if the lid was left on. Should I be cleaning up right away after a print? I’m hoping I haven’t destroyed the build plate by sanding it but couldn’t find any other way. I’ve not tried printing anything more yet.

Some more chairs added. This is the more difficult stock rail on the yard turnout now in place. If it looks wonky it’s because it is - there’s a joggle and set bend in it for the catch point blade. The adjacent wing rail has one too for the second catch point blade, which will require some accurate bending.

It still exists: The layout is on permanent display (as a diorama) in Milestones museum at Basingstoke.

The roof really caught my eye. What a mix of sizes in the roof covering. It looks a complete mess in places and quite unlike anything I’ve ever seen in embossed plastic.

No, but the profile is different on a broad gauge conversion because the conversion was accomplished (in simple terms) by cutting a length-wise slice out of the middle of coach and joining it back together. That is unless it was a ‘convertible’ where the change was to put the already narrow body on a narrow under frame.

The No. 3 timetable doesn’t show Didcot. It appears to originate from Reading according to that one timetable. If it did come from Didcot it would be reversing at Reading? I think it’s No. 1 to look for a prior working from Didcot. It’s route is via Newbury rather than Basingstoke but it didn’t reach Newbury via the DN&S.

The 1911 STT No 3.* shows a goods train to Southampton from Reading (F head code). There maybe others I just had a quick look to make sure I had remembered correctly that any goods train did exist. *This is available on the Michael Clements website.

Exhibit 1. Silver soldered success: The rails were clipped to an aluminium plate with the end to be soldered overhanging the edge. The plate was then held and supported so the joint was perpendicular to the floor. This allows the solder to be placed onto the top of the joint touching both parts. It seemed this was important based on the YouTube video I watched. I don’t normally watch YouTube instructional videos but this particular one seems to be informative and presented safely. I can’t find it again now, which is a shame because there could have been some other good content from that presenter (jewellery maker). Everything was cleaned up prior and some flux made up from borax cone and water. The video showed a clumpy paste liberally applies so I did the same. Heated it up with a small butane torch add a clipping of solder wire prepared ready and heat a little more. Feeling pleased with my success I arranged the second V on the aluminium with bulldog clips and proceeded as before. The solder did not flow much and has made a joint only in one spot. I think the flux went too hot and spoiled. My instructor said if it goes black it’s game over. I didn’t see it go black but when I looked again it is not clean like the first. I washed off in an alkaline solution followed by water. A 50% success rate is up 50% on previous attempts. Trial fitting the good V over the plan showed that I’d not made the rails long enough to make the already laid sleepers so I moved them around to suit - carefully peeling and replacing the Easitrac - and trimmed the rails back to match the new rail join locations. (They are still close to proper rail lengths as available at the time.) The splice is well centred so the length to the blunt nose was checked and the joined rails snipped back. Then the rail assembly is into a good (read well fitting/matching) set of vice jaws for filing. filed and turned over and filed again until both sides a flush to the leg of the rail at the splice, like so. With the flexibility of the rail laterally I somehow managed to ease the assembly into the Easitrac a chair per leg at a time. I had spent some time in between times preparing single chairs for threading onto rail but did not remember to thread them here before inserting the rails fully. I will be glad if that little extra height difference between the coppperclad and Easitrac for introducing them here I think. If I then fix the nose solidly to the timber and pressed down the height change from the nose to the Easitrac is about .2mm over 4 timber spaces so <1:100 gradient. Probably okay?

Roads get more compacted and therefore smoother as they wear. Then they break up with further age. Dirt roads get rutted if used when wet. The 220 could be good at the sides for the lesser used areas and add some variation to the macro texture. Micro texture variation will come with powders etc.

Inhabited by the prickly hot cross bunny rabbits. 400 grit looks promising

Does it need to be one of those that are lined to prevent ignition and have special boots to avoid sparks? It should run with some barrier wagons too...

All this talk of buildings is very important but there are other important questions that might easily be overlooked. One example: How are we spelling bramblery ?