richbrummitt

The problem is always the space available between the frames. Microantribe (sp) have some small gearboxes to fit small motors but the ones that I thought looked useful are unlikely to fit between the frames of a 2FS loco. Making the gearbox frames integral to the locomotive frames reduces the space issue, but brings with it a whole heap of grief in planning the chassis design for a loco.

Glad to hear this was much more successful than your last outing. Does this mean that once the point rodding is finished you'll be ballasting the track for the final time?

As a mechanical engineer I agree. As a 2FS modeller it doesn't matter, in the same way a number of us make our axle holes about 6% oversize as an incredibly crude form of making the chassis flexible to improve pick up.

I think you originally made it such that the height made the motor centre line sit at the boiler pitch. It's a really nice idea and would make for a better performing loco. I doubt many people would have built it this way however due to the inherent difficulty of hiding the chassis body join where the motor (which would have to appear as the boiler) joins the smokebox. On another note is the 2251 chassis really a substitute for a dean goods? I think I remember being told the N brass kit has been 'adapted' to fit the 4F chassis, in which case the splashers may need moving.

Did you change the height of the worm gear shaft between the test etches that I built and the final version?

Probably only the ones on the main line. If you want to make sure on the size the dimensions are in the GWSG book on switch and crossing practice. Let me know if you want them. I believe you on this one. I looked up how big a stool is. A fraction over 1mm tall and 0.5mm long at this scale. I feel that this is my main failing as a modeller: getting too caught up int the detail to be productive.

This looks as if it has the potential to be a really interesting layout. Awaiting further progress

There's a photo in the Adrian Vaughan book. I saw it yesterday when flicking through for pictures of something else that I didn't see. It jumped out from having seen your model.

Technically speaking no I wasnt! It was Rich Agreed. I am guilty. How quickly? It's the next thing I need to do on Littlemore. I don't mind being distracted again.

Sorry. I'll get my coat. Now that is cool.

Yes, maybe (that's why I was going to give mine) and no. I was sure it was both, with a change from round to square. I don't remember the date.

They are LSWR stools (I'm not guessing from the photo, I have some that I will never build). You should have convinced Ivan to do the GWR ones, since he has both in his range.

This sounds familiar. When I first joined I promised myself I wouldn't commit too much until I had built a working steam locomotive chassis (an 0-6-0PT). Chassis one thru three were scrapped at various stages in the learning and skill development process. The 4th is not too pretty, but it does work, and I still use it. My first turnout was iffy too. It really helps to understand what all the parts do on the full size thing to know what is critical rather than just adding bits and hoping.

I'd rather you didn't. I read what you wrote slightly differently. You'd need some sprues of chairs for easitrac, and obviously the fixing method is different, but the rest is the same. I feel off topic now though. Anyone have another question? Ooh. That's another question in itself.

I think this location is a good one. There is enough operational interest with the sidings, and a managable amount of stuff to do without getting disheartened. A natural scenic break at one end is a bonus!

I disagree. You are trying to do almost exactly the same thing, but you have glue for the plastic bits instead of solder for metal ones. The prototype is no different.

I'd imagine that the central building is the lock up goods shed, especially given the kind of doors it has and a lack of platform facing windows. I'm sure this wasn't uncommon. After all there would be a limited amount of space in the offices of such a small station building! Another point is about your loop. Was the station a passing station? If not it is likely that it was a siding with a connection at each end. This would have allowed either an up or down train to pick up and drop off wagons, again, not uncommon.

The book on build an 0-6-0 (that is already suggested above) will answer many of them. It follows one persons build. There are some things that I would disagree on, like the keeper plate method for the wheels. There is a second book on split frame chassis construction. Also available from the 2mm SA Shop 1, or if you are not already a member (why not ) it is available from any exhibition that the 2mm SA association stand attends. This is possibly better than the above book because it gives the principles, reasons and ideas for this method of construction. Other replies have answered most of these questions. N Brass Locos also offer 0-6-0 chassis (think frames and connecting rods) which I believe are based on a SECR C class, but there's every chance I am wrong. The supply is not isolated from the chassis. You have to make sure that the frames are isolated from each other. This is explained by the principles of split frame chassis construction. Gearboxes are usually built into the frame to make the most of the small space available between the frames (usually 6-7mm depending on the material used for the frames). Thus when planning the frames you will also plan additional holes to site the shafts for the gears to sit on. (These are also split and joined by an insulating sleeve, like the locomotive wheels)

Waits for the 9F pictures from a keen house meet a few years back.

That might not be quite true. Let me have a look in my boxes and see what I have. I remember buying a bunch of 40' PLV etches from a couple of sources. I can't remember how different a K3 is from some of the other diagrams of the same period.

Me too. I can't understand Chris' patience.

This, for me, is much more interesting. I've thought about making mine a roundy now I have a bigger car. I'd lose the engine shed though.

I liked the previous plan better: To me it looks odd with the loop continuing through a goods yard that is split in half.

Just use rod. Flatten the top a little once soldered up. There was some narrow gauge on show at the 2mm Expo last year with track done like this and you had to look hard and close to spot it.