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Jon020

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  1. Jon020

    A weathered Freightliner 57

    By Jon020,

    Hello! Firstly, I feel I ought to apologise for my absence on this forum; I can’t quite believe how long it’s been since I did post anything here and there are plenty of reasons for this, but the most significant of these involve a reduced amount of time spent on railway modelling of late (work, life, other interests etc), and what railway modelling has been accomplished has been written in a thread over on the scalefour forum. The reason for that last item is that in modelling in scalefour, but loyalties were tied between the two forums, but when I was appointed as the New Member Support Officer for the Scalefour Society and put on “the committee” I felt my loyalties “pulled” in that direction. That said, the feedback over there has been great and I’ve felt quite at home in that decision, but when modelling directions deviate a little back to OO, the S4 forum is not best placed. Current Scalefour projects are idle at the moment, but they will pick up again, but in the interim, I decided that I ought to do something about the backlog of less-relevant-to-me models that were filling the cupboard.
    However, it was by attending scaleforum on Saturday, that I returned home with the urge to get something finished, and this was as good a project as any as it just needed testing and buttoning back up.
    One of these was a DCC Sound fitted Bachmann Freightliner 57. A nice model and fun to run – it ran on my friend’s loft layout for a few evenings a year or so ago, and at the time I must have robbed the speaker to fit into my BR Blue Backmann (rebuild/detailing) Class 47 project. Recently, I thought that the 57 deserved a better home, so I set about reinstating a replacement speaker (from Bachmann) with a view to placing it on ebay. Having noticed the number of these that find their way there, I thought I’d make mine a little different and apply detailing at one end (nothing different about that) and apply some weathering. Again, there’s little unusual about that, but i do pride myself in spending a little time and effort on these weathering jobs as i like them to look reasonable. Whilst many of these locos did end up looking quite filthy, it’s always (in my view) useful to work from photos. There are plenty of photos to be browsed via a google or bing image search and with a selection of small images to hand, I set about applying some muck.
    I should also state that I’m no fan of filthy loco sides, just for the sake of it. Most locos will end up with an exhaust and oil stained roof and track and muck and ballast and oil stained underframe (bogies and tanks) and some muck will accumulate at the loco ends, both from being thrown up from underneath at the trailing end of the loco and from the trailing sooty exhausts... and anything in the atmosphere that comes their way. The loco sides are, however, usually subject to washer plants and, being vertical, less prone to dirt accumulation. However, anything that does adhere is prone to being washed away by the elements including rain/sleep/snow etc, so a streaking effect can be seen on plenty of locos especially if they’ve been left sat idle for a little while. Therefore, you will probably see that this is the effect that I’ve set out to represent, as seen in photos of the class (and of this loco) in service... with just a little track dirt that’s drifted to the loco body lower edges as a result of a recent working.
    The first step with any shiny out-of-the-box loco is to tone everything back. Having already detailed one end with the pipework pertinent to this class of 57 when operated by Freightliner, and painted the bufferbeam and buffers (with layers of grime/oil representing mix of silver and black paints) and added polished silver metalcote inners to the buffer oleos, and then applying a few detail highlights to the bogies frames (including adding the yellow to the axle box covers), I set up my recently acquired spray booth to start work on the loco block/chassis and bogies. I removed the DCC sound chip (putting it carefully away) and fitted the blanking plate and then wired a small Hornby dc controller to the PCB power inputs. This allowed me to run the motor at a slow speed and hence drive the wheels... such that when I applied some track grime/sleeper dirt/black enamel paint mix by brush to the wheels (turning slowly) I was able to acquire a good even coverage; when the paint was applied, I was also able to use a slightly-wetted-in-white-spirit cotton bud tip to remove any over spill on the wheel tread faces ... and keep them electrically clean.

    I then used the same (and later a slightly different variation) of the same shade of paint within the airbrush to apply a gentle/subtle patina of colour to the bogie frames, buffer beams and underframe tanks. Over a period of an hour or so, this colour mix was varied to darker shades and then through to lighter (similar to brake dust) shades lightly, enhancing the subtle patina of shades that would have built-up over time.
    I then turned my attention to the body, initially (after allowing the maskol to dry over the glazing) I applied a few light whisps of the dirty underframe mix to the loco ends, removing much of this with the wetted cotton bud, slowly building up a very light ingrained dirt look to certain recesses.... but less is more, so most of it was removed. For the roof section, I started with a mix of mostly roof dirt and a little of one of the track browns, slowly applying the colour moving away from the exhaust ports; cab ends and most of the roof sections were covered and then cleaned away again leaving a little streaking and dirt accumulation at the ends and harder to reach (for the cleaners) recesses. Once dried, I applied a further mix of roof dirt in a similar but lighter manner, again moving away from the exhaust ports in each direction, producing a toned-down, rather than filthy, finish overall. The colour was darkened again to nearly a dirty back to deepen the more recent exhaust emissions nearer the ports.
    The bodysides were cleaned of their overspray (not much) by dragging the aforementioned wetted cotton bud (clean ones each time) in vertical strokes down the sides. Whilst this cleaned the majority of the paint (and I had to apply a few wafts with the airbrush to built it up), it left some nice washed-out dirt marks down the bodyside, representing rain-washed dirt (or at least, that’s the look I was after – this was hardly a principle express loco).
    Once dried, a few more roof dirt wafts with the airbrush built up this patina.
    Some light application of thin black paint was applied into roof, bodysides and chassis crevices (including the bogie secondary springs) to enhance the shadows. The cant-rail grills were similarly treated to bring some depth to the grills.
    Powders were applied to the bogie side frames and tanks, lightly applying a mix of black and brake-dust colours, all of which were “washed in” with some thinners to dilute and seal them into the crevices as intended. Some oil and fuel spill runs were applied to the tanks and bogies using the Tensocrom products.
    The end result is of a worked, but kept reasonably well looked after loco... not one that’s been left to rot, but one that’s clearly having a working life and will probably get a wash and brush-up the next time it receives some deep maintenance, but for now, it remains in work. I’ll admit that I’ve applied a little artistic license, but the weathering style is based on photos of Freightliner 57s hard at work. I hope this appeals to someone who will, eventually, find it a good home.
    The remaining photos illustrate a little more of the finished model... as it was sunny on Sunday, so I took the opportunity to grab some photos.




    Thanks for reading....
    Jonathan
  2. Jon020
    Stories of my demise have been greatly exaggerated; I’ve been around, but spending my modelling time, modelling rather than writing... but here’s an attempt to readdress that.
     
    Some months ago I acquired a pair of ViTrains 47s. I’d always admired certain aspects of these models, not least their bogies, and the opportunity to pick these up in these liveries was not passed by. The Virgin loco was acquired after I missed out on a trip to Warley as some small compensation; the DRS one was picked up in early December as an early Christmas present to me. The Virgin livery was one that struck home with me as I recalled seeing these operate the cross country services at Stockport whilst I lived there in the 90s; the DRS livery is one I’ve admired for a while; i think it’s the nicest of modern liveries today, and the revised version recently unveiled has enhanced this further. So, whilst both models would be subject to detailing and some repainting, the bodysides on each would remain almost as presented.
     
    Coincidentally, I found that the two models represented “twin” locos; Virgin 47805 and DRS 47802. Paradoxically, both of these locos operated top-n-tail on a number of services whilst both operated for DRS until quite recently. 805 is still earning its keep, in fact I’ve seen photos of it working what I presume to be the Norwich short-set today, but I think that 802’s days are possibly over... making way for the new order 68s.
     
    I’ll tackle the DRS loco first as this needed a little more work.
    I wanted the model to represent the prototype as closely as possible and 47802 has some oddities. Firstly, it has non-standard buffers, presumably to help prevent bufferlock when shunting at low speed, but my observations suggested that the bufers at No.1 end resembled those of a Class 31, whilst the buffers at the No.2 end resembled those of a Class 60. Fortunately, both are available as Hornby Spares (I think I used Peter’s spares for these). The other item that singles 802 out is its multiple-unit working connector; for a while it was equipped with a recessed straight plug rather than the elephantine proboscis of the majority of the class. Unfortunately, ViTrains chose to represent this only with a transfer which I did not feel was good enough.
    Other areas of treatment would be some refinement to the bufferbeams, shawplan roof fans and grills and laserglaze all-round (almost).
     
    The loco was disassembled with some trouble... the glazing and fans unit were secured with a considerable amount of glue, but some careful prising won the battle.
     
    The first step was to replace the transfer connector unit; I chose a 0.4mm drill in a pin vice and drilled holes in the corners and around the edges... before cleaning up the edges with a square Swiss file.
    I then cut some squares of plastic card to represent the buffer plates, through which holes would be drilled to take the Hornby buffer shanks.

    These looked fine to start with but second thoughts later on would drive a “plan b”.
    To back-fill the connector recess, a square of plastic card was cut and glued in place at the correct angle to provide the right nose-down angle to the connector unit; the front edge of this plate was chamfered to provide a neat front finish.
    Holes were then drilled in the new buffer plastic plates and the new buffers were trial fitted.

    To be honest, I thought that these were a bit chunky, so I looked through my spares-bits box and found that I had a Shawplan Class 56 bufferbeam detailing etch that I’d used the bufferbeam steps for on my 47, but the buffer plates were still in the bag... so I removed the plastic squares and tried the etches; these are quite old etches but they serve the purpose and looked a lot better once trial fitted with the buffers again, seen here at the other end this time.

    The MU connector housing was then drilled out with a 0.3mm drill near each corner and a short length of 33 swg wire inserted to protrude slightly to represent the plate bolts. A fifth hole was drilled centrally to take the “pin” of the MU connector once I’d made this from plastic rod and microstrip. A further slither of plastic card was added under the hole for the ETS connector, to represent the connector mount, based on prototype photos.

    It was then time to mask the locos up and apply some colour, with 805 had been brought to a similar, paintable stage. In reality this is quiet straightforward and addresses a bugbear I have with these models, namely their thin finish... which really shows poorly on light colours and in this case, it’s the yellow. There’s also a bit of a seam/lip around the nose join, and sanding this down first is useful. For some reason, I added the handrails to 802, so these went yellow too. Once masked, I treated both locos to some Railmatch post-84 warning panel yellow (202) though my trusty Iwata revolution. Once dry, I treated the bufferbeam and buffers on 802 to some white primer to provide a good base for the red paint later. Once dry (and the Railmatch primer does take a long time to dry) I added representation of the cross-beam air-supply pipework using 33swg nickel wire and thin plastic rod pieces, that were hollowed out to represent unions. This was secure in place with some Bob Smith Industries Super Gold+ CA glue – which is a great non-blooming superglue that I’ve started to use a lot (similar in viscosity to Zap-a-gap green – but works really, really well).

    The lamp brackets were fitted too. These are nice little mouldings but a bit fiddly to fit, the BSI glue did a good job here – noting that 802 only has these on the 2nd man’s side.
    Then I moved on to 805’s buffers. These are the normal 47 buffers but I didn’t like the “flat” ViTrains ones, so I repeated the exercise I’d performed on the Bachmann ones, I stripped them down and popped them in a minidrill and spinning this up, I reprofiled the buffers with some fine papers – getting the correct profile. A hole in the centre face was drilled out with a 0.4mm drill held steady with the buffer spinning. The image hopefully shows the improved result which takes only a matter of minutes to do.

     
    Then it was on to the bit I’d been dreading ... that of the roof grills. The etches are exquisite and represent the right weave (choose the right one!) but they are fragile; I’d broken a few whilst working my Bachmann 47 project previously, so extra care was taken... and it all worked out splendidly. The mesh is removed from the fret and then I use a grinding tool in my minidrill to de-burr the grill edges, then roll it slightly using a soft foam surface and the soft plastic handle of a swiss file, and then place accurately and tack down with Zap-a-gap Pink (thin) until secure. Once these are in place, the same approach is followed for the grill surround... and glued in place. Then keep fingers clear. Once dry, I decided that the best course of action was to get some paint on quick (paint seems to strengthen them – yes they’re that delicate). So I masked up the bodies leaving just the grill section exposed

    ...and gave them a few gentle wafts with some grey Halfords primer... which works a treat.

    With 802 put to one side, attention turned to the bufferbeams of 805, which are of course different and not able to be modelled using the ViTrains parts alone.
    A rummage through my spares box finds a few Heljan 47 sprues with (thank goodness) some ETS modules of the desired type. In comparison, these look alot bulkier than the ViTrains ones, but i think it’s ViTrains that got this wrong not Heljan.
    I blanked out the appropriate fittings with plastic card (per prototype photos) and added the Heljan fittings complete with wire “cables” that were drilled into the fittings and passed through new holes drilled into the bufferbeam. This was a bit of a fiddle, but the end result looked reasonably effective.

    Then it was back to the paint shop, where the roof grills were sprayed a matt black (to be adjusted later) and then the engine compartment sections were masked out and painted Diesel roof grey – again all with the airbrush. Finally, the bufferbeam on 802 was masked up and sprayed matt red, and the ETS and other fittings to 805’s bufferbeam were painted white as a base of the orange later, and 802’s handrails picked back out in white.

     
    The buffer beams were finished off with a mix of ViTrains and Heljan pipes (choosing the best for each fitting) and a Hornby screw-link coupling which cosmetically look fine. The pipework was picked out in white and then the buffers were fitted to 802, along with the MU connector that I’d made from plastic rod and microstrip. Fittings on both were painted orange and the plastic buffers on 805 were painted with Humbrol gunmetal Metalcote and then polished to give a nice metallic finish.

     
    Whilst not evident in most photos, the cabs were painted and drivers assembled. I had some spare Bachmann drivers that I bought quite some time ago and by amputating them from the waste, they can be made to fit in the cabs. I also adjusted their right arm positions to that they could be reaching for the controls appropriately. I painted these following the layers process... dark base colours followed by lighter highlights ... which gives a good effect - it was described by “Northern Maiden” I think on this forum a while ago. These were glued in to their cabs for positioning later on.
     
    One further failing of the finish of these locos is that they tend to look a bit “flat”. I therefore decided to bling the models up a bit and as I had chosen to represent them as relatively clean locos, I sprayed the entire bodysides, roof and ends with Precision gloss varnish. I found I had a can of ready-to-spray varnish so gave this a go and it worked quite well. I was less impressed a few weeks later when I went to use it again to find that the whole tin’s contents had turned to the consistency of jelly.... which was then disposed of L
    Anyway, this provided a good base for the additional transfers that I needed to add back to the yellow ends, for the overhead warning flashes on both and black loco numbers for 802, all of which were from Fox transfers.
     
    Once dry, I glazed the locos using Shawplan Laserglaze, neatly dropping each screen into the opening and securing with a bean of Johnson’s Klear. I retained the original cab door glazing pieces on 802 as these carried DRS transfers and whilst I’m sure these can be procured, I saw their retention as a small concession to be lived with.
     
    The roof fans were fabricated and painted red. These were affixed to the existing fan units with cocktail stick pieces as axles secured through new holes drilled into the plastic mounts. Once fitted, they looked fine.

     
    I’d not been idle with the chassis either, I’d cut out a section of the fuel tank ends (the triangular end section) and replaced this with a square section to better represent the shape of the tanks. I fashioned some fire pull frames from plastic card and attached these with a strengthening piece behind to the chassis underside. These were then painted white with a red boarder.
    I lowered the ride height by removing the metal spigots that run through the bogie tower. This allows the bogies to sit a little higher and gives a pleasing gap between the bogie and body. Clearances are tighter but sufficient.
    802 has/had a different speedo pick-up on the centre axle of the no.1 bogie, so the provided unit was replaced with a plastic hub and wire assembly, with a plastic card cover fabricated to replicate prototype photos.
     
    Chassis and bogie details were all fitted and the entire assembly was sprayed with a matt black/weathered black mix to tone the whole thing back. The piperwork, springs and fittings were then picked out on 802, per prototype photos before the whole assembly was weathered lightly using my Premi-air airbrush (preferred for weathering) and various subtle shades of Railmatch sleeper grime, frame dirt, brake dust, light rust and roof dirt.
     
    The roof of each loco was also lightly weathered (more heavily on 805) to represent general roof grime and exhaust, again using the airbrush and careful application/wiping with soaked cotton buds... but to give a gentle misting effect.
    Some light dirt misting was applied to the bodysides of 805 and the buffers were “greased” using some thick silver/black mix which was then flattened with a flat surface.
    Initial train assemblies looked promising


     
    After exhibiting at a local model show, I removed the hastily applied windscreen wipers (Class 55 items) and set about making the correct class 47 items. These are Shawplan items (as you’d expect) and made using a neat little etch and a piece of 33 swg wire that I add to represent the blade. This is glued along half its length and then bend away to form the blade and wiper arm separation.

     
    Once the glue has dried, I blacken the wire with a permanent marker to represent the blade.
    These are then affixed into the loco nose ends through small holes drilled in the wiper are recesses, as shown; apologies for the narrow depth of field in this shot... the camera was in quite close.

     
    Then, DISASTER! One further aspect that I’m not a fan of with these models is their clip-on, clip-off body... or rather not-clip-off. It was as I was trying to remove the body of 802 that I managed to put a finger through one of the roof fan mesh grills. ... which ended up costing me a little in the swear box. Sometimes, it’s best to put a model down and walk away... so I did.
    After a day or three, I had a hunt around and found that I had a spare grill mesh in the drawer. So, I removed the damaged mesh’s surround carefully and pried the mesh away. I cleaned the surrounding area of the hole to get a good bond and applied the new mesh, and then applied the mesh surround. So far so good! The whole area was masked and re-primed with Halfords paint.

     
    It was then a job of deciding how to best finish it off. I masked and sprayed the area around the mesh in black, as before, and once dry, masked the loco except the roof section and applied some gloss varnish in sections to the roof to delineate the sections and “lift” the entire look. Again, once dry, I then weathered the roof section, but this time, I started with some frame dirt and a little black to add some shades of browns into the engine cover covers, and then slowly built up the darkness of the paint to apply, waft-like to the general areas, especially over the cabs, but leaving more of the roof sides clean. Darker colours were slowly applied (805 was getting a similar treatment) until i finished with a very black mix lightly for soot stains around the engine exhaust.
     
    I’d not been happy with the buffers on 802, so these had their faces painted with a lighter shade of Metalcote (Steel I think), after which the grease treatment was given only to the centre of the buffers to make them look clean but certainly used – just like they’ve been appearing in some recent pictures for a magazine subscription leaflet (REx).
     
    After a few days drying, reassemblies were attempted, carefully, and a few photos taken for posterity.
    In the sunlight, the finish does look quite striking. I think they look clean, but used... hopefully as they would have appeared in 1994 (for 805) and 2007 (for 802).




    I’m still quite attached to the livery of 802 but it’s not in keeping with my period-of-choice so this will possibly seek a new home. 805 has a different look and whilst the livery is not quite as appealing to my eye as that of DRS Compass, it does cause a tug of nostalgia from my days in Manchester when I saw these in operation – this was back in a time when the railways had lost their interest for me – oh how I wish I’d been differently enthused back then (hindsight’s a wonderful thing), but this one will need to find a new home too... otherwise it’ll be resprayed into BR Blue... and that will never do will it.
    Anyway... thanks for reading.
    Jon
  3. Jon020
    Slight improvements to the Bachmann Craven Part 1: The modelling bit.
     
    I’m applying some delaying tactics to my 47 project, which is currently in primer but with yellow ends. I need some more practice with the BR blue and my Iwata; I’ve got a good finish on one practice GUV body and I want to do another once I’ve done some masking on that too. I’ve been busy with work and been a bit under the weather (influenza and norovirus are two ways to lose weight but I’d not recommend either of them – it’s been a fun few weeks... and don’t get me started on the sciatica!) so the 47 project went on hold. I need to find a clear time slot to sort the careful masking around the front ends of the 47 and then get that blue coat on... then I can crack on with all the other details that I’ve been putting off... anyway, that can wait.
     
    It’s also summer with many other things to be doing (not enough galas or railtours for me though) but the garden beckons and my recent health issues have forced me to pick up some books... so I’ve finally got “in to” the Millennium trilogy which is providing a distraction, in more ways than one! And sitting reading in the garden next to the fire pit burning logs listening to bird song isn’t a bad way to spend an evening (if the boys will keep the noise down)... and a lot less taxing than this modelling lark.
     
    So, now for something slightly different...
     
    The Bachmann Class 105 is a lovely model. I pondered these for a while and finally succumbed to a very good offer on a DCC fitted version at the Brighton show in 2012. The version offered was the single power unit, BR Blue version with twin reporting code box. It was provided with blank “black” code windows and destinations of Peterborough and Norwich (I think). However, I had other plans.
     
    Having spent my young formative years within earshot and sight of the line out of Hertford North, where it crossed the low-lying meads that sat between the Rivers Lea and Mimram... and passed over the old Hertford to Welwyn disused railway line track bed, and then needing to cross the footbridge over the station throat on my way to primary school every day where view such as this could be had left indelible memories of these units.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/40263244@N04/8354055171/
    They were noisy, uncomfortable and stuffy... but they were our means of getting into London... and that meant Kings Cross... so clearly, they were going to be tolerated. There were two versions that plied our route, the one with the two-digit code panel, which invariably displayed B2 or was a faded blank panel (or combination thereof), and the version that had a marker light (headlight?) in its place. I always thought these looked odd so I preferred the two-digit code version... which is why I bought this one.
    Anyway, more specifics later... but for now, back to the model.
     
    The intent was simple; replace the blank panels with B2 panels and appropriate destination blinds. But nothing is ever that simple!
    Firstly, the font used for the destination code is an odd one, I found some fonts that came close and tried some test prints but they weren’t right. The Precision Labels offerings were also very “loco” orientated, and whilst this would “do” form most DMUs, these Cravens were different. In the end, I sketched out the font and shaded them in on some 260gsm Bristol Board (that I use for drawing). This is quite sturdy and could simply be taped in place afterwards. I made a few attempts!

    However, the black panel fitted is a black painted transparent piece that I could not budge from either nose end; it was also very thick... too thick to my eye, so I set about trying to thin it using files. I had some success but it is still too thick... but it was a case of diminishing returns so I cut my losses and left it where I’d got it to. Once finished with the file and sandpaper, I polished it with Tee-cut to get it smooth, to which the codes were then added inside. This was one of my first attempts when I added the codes to a piece of plasticard.... which I didn’t use in the end, but you get the picture

    For the destination blinds, I simply (and with gritted teeth) pulled the internal half of the glazing inwards and pushed the outer outwards... and “pop” out it came. The existing destinations were removed with a file and polished with Tee-cut and new destinations printed, using a suitable font, which I think was Gill Sans MT Condensed size 6 (Kings Cross) and 4 (Hertford North)... by reference to photos; printed cut and placed... looked ok.

    Note the roof colour that lifted after I removed the masking tape... now patched back in and will be hid under some weathering nicely.
     
    As you can probably tell from the above photo, I didn’t leave it there. The provided windscreen wipers are, as necessary with most models, a little chunky. However, whilst I couldn’t find an easy replacement, and decided that they could be tolerated, I did decided to sort the part that is clearly wrong... that of the area where the wiper attaches to the body. The Bachmann moulding is chunky at the top and this needs thinning excessively to fit inside the new shrouds that are made with thin slithers of plastic card cut to shape. Once the wipers are glued “in”, they actually look ok.

     
    Another area visible in the same photo is that of the grill (not sure what it was, but I found no (or very few) photos of these on the real thing. It looks like these grills were removed and plated over, so that’s what I did. Initially... per the photo, I filed the grill away and added a plastic card plate and used Archers transfers for the rivets... and gave it a coat of yellow to blend in. Nope.... too bulky and pronounced! So I removed these and added a thinner sheet and didn’t bother with the rivets... they were quite small in reality and noticeable in photos.... but only just. In 7mm, yes; 4mm no I think I’ll leave them off.

     
    At the time, I was intending to just patch paint the yellow but it’s a difficult colour to do this with so I decided in the end to mask the whole area and apply a coat of Railmatch Pre-84 Warning Panel yellow with the airbrush... this is a much lighter shade than the Bachmann’s orangey version... and it was worth the extra effort.


     
    Interior: Aargh! Why did Bachmann paint it this colour – or not paint it. The green and red plastic are horrid! Thank goodness the interior lights don’t work (something I’ll need to sort at some point). The colours in the units I remember were of... well, blue basically.... but filthy. I tackled this with some grey shades for the bulkheads and floor and shades of the blue for the seats; the first class section (deregulated in this case – I forgot, yes I had to remove the yellow strip on the models – I used Tee-cut and lots of rubbing) were a deeper blue. The cab got a few details highlighted and a driver (modified (arm repositioned), repainted Bachmann 47 driver – I’ll need another one for the 47 project now!). This shot shows the first stage with initial colours only.

    With all the colours in place, it was still too bright; not nearly grubby enough! This was solved by a liberal application of Carrs Black weathering powder, daubed on and swashed around with a stiff brush. I like this powder and it does what it says... here we see a done and to be done interior... hopefully the result is obvious and it was one that I was eventually content with.

     
    Wheelsets
    A simple rewheeling was undertaken using Branchlines conversion pack... which has some good instructions, with one or two pointers also supplied upon request from Jim Smith-Wright (thanks for all you support and help Jim), so that I could convert these to P4. I needed to remove some of the brake hangar plastic mouldings but we expect that with P4 anyway and the job was quite painless... but I forgot to take photos. Sorry! Suffice to say, they fit and these were painted a mix of track dirt colour to blend in with later weathering (see part 2 – once I’ve done it).
     
    Bufferbeams
    Right, now we come to one of those bits that I wanted to push a bit further. The outer ends are straightforward: I retained the supplied screwlinks but didn’t like the supplied pipes, so I used Shawplan cast vac pipes and an airbrake pipe (I think). I used 0.4mm wire to represent the stowed control loops that I fitted into the previously fitted moulded units (which aren’t bad).

    But there’s nothing for the inner ends! This is an area that I often look at on both models and try to look at on the real thing; it’s an area that’s not dealt with much. JimSW has previously written about providing vacuum pipes that can connect, but could this be taken further? Why not?
    For the inter-coach connections on this unit, there are what I interpret to be two “jumper” type cables on each side and the vacuum pipes nearer the middle, sitting under the BS-style corridor connection (no buckeyes here!).
    I decided that to try and fill the void that always appears between the coaches, I would represent these pipes... it’s a bit like adding the pipework to the bufferbeams (something that was soooooo needed on that Deltic).
     
    Trying to be a little bit clever, I decided that I’d want to be able to undo these... so I set about adapting Jim S-W’s process using shirring elastic (available from most craft shops) and 1mm diameter neodymimum magnets (look on ebay).
    Here’s how I did what I did:
    Firstly, I made up some representative connector housings using plastic card and plastic rod, with the rod drilled out to just a fraction over 1mm so that the magnets could sit inside. I hope the photo explains this

     
    Then I took a length of shiring elastic and unwound one of the outer sheaths to reduce it’s overall diameter... a fiddly task, but worth the effort. If you take both sheaths off, you’re left with the inner elastic core which is great for things link sanding pipes (per my deltic’s bogies).
    Then I take a length of the elastic and dip the end in thin superglue (zap-a-gap pink) with capilliary action wicking a little ... and this is allowed to dry. You’ll see that I decant a little glue into the lid of an old Pringles jar... very useful for this type of thing, and now that I’ve started collecting these Pringles jar lids.... I just can’t stop!

    Then with a sharp Swann Morten blade, I slice the end of this

    ...to give a nice square end.

    The magnets are supplied in a length of 50 magnets all back-to-back. So, I dip the elastic in some thicker superglue (zap-a-gap Green) ... and attach it to the end magnet and allow it to harden a little. Then with the knife blade, I separate the first two magnets from the set and attach another length of elastic that’s been treated in the same way. These are put to one side to dry.

    Repeat exercise for all that are needed!
    Once dry, I separate the magnet pairs and dip each one onto the thicker glue to “pot” the magnet onto the elastic (no photo sorry!) and set asides to dry. The effect should be evident in the latter photos.
     
    With these pairs, they’re ideal for the vacuum pipes that can then be glued into new holes (of the existing ones opened out a bit) of each buffer beam. As the units are then brought together, they “couple”.
    For the jumpers, the mating pairs aren’t needed, and you just need to separate each pair and use them in the mouldings already made up. I stuck the elastic ends in the open angled mouldings and I carefully chose the right polarity to inset a magnet in the adjacent vertical moulding... and the opposite receptacle moulding on the other coach chassis.

    Thus, the looped elastic pieces are attached through their magnet to the vertical receptacle alongside... and when brought up to the other coach, this can be pulled off and “attached” to the correct plug on the other coach. Some trial work is advisable to check the polarities and try to pair them so that when disconnected the two loose ends don’t try to connect to each other.... fiddly but it works.

     
    Once the body is dropped back on, it’s just a case of bringing them together and using tweezers to “pull” the “pipe” down and offer it in the direction of the mating plug... and the connection is “made”. The inner vac pipes are difficult to reach but self-couple... and uncouple. However these do seem strong enough to allow the motorised coach to pull the unmotorised coach and for now I’ve dispensed with any attempt at a further close coupling mechanism.
    I did try a piece of code 100 rail (blackened) inserted into the NEM sockets... but this didn’t sit right so I abandoned it ... for now.

    One final personal refinement
    I renumbered it as one of the two units that formed "The Intersurburban" railtour that ran the surburban lines out of Kings X, starting at Hertford North... running north then all the way down to Broad Street and Moorgate and back. This unit (56455+51265) was populated by the Herts County Council Railway Society, and the other unit (56449+51294) was populated by the Stevenage Locomotive Society. My father was heavily involved in the HCCRS so we rode in the front compt of 51265... when not in the cab. As a youngster of 7, I was given the controls whilst we headed north and I remember looking at the speedo and seeing 55mph (funny that this is the Deltic TOPs number isn't it... I only recently realised the coincidence). It was a good day from what my hazy memory recalls. A week or so later and we were introduced to "The Great Northern Electrics"... Dual voltage 313s... after which the ride was much smoother, but we didn't go down to "The Cross" in these.
    Now, I have to be honest, whilst I have found a photo of this railtour in the Kingscross Lineside book... details of the units have been very hard to come by. In the end, I found a brief response from a Mr Geoff Cook (through the Flickr Craven Images group pages); he got in touch with Andy Lickfold and Dave Rice (of the SLS) and provided the numbers. RESULT!
     
    So, now I could renumber the unit as the one “I drove” ... sort of. Anyway, it was a childhood memory... and now I just need my father to finally get around to sorting out his stuff and finding the photo of me at the controls at the time (no I won’t model myself as a 7 year old).
    Anyway, I looked at the unit numbers and realised that I just needed to change the last 2 digits of each... and found suitable units on a fox transfers (Mk1s east coast) set... and whilst there not “quite” the same size, they’re very close... and will do. So I removed the last digits of each and applied a 55 and 65 to give me the set I wanted. I also added the blue square transfers at each end over the “LW” markings provided by Bachmann... that were still just visible through the thin coat of yellow I’d applied.
     
    Several coats of satin varnish were applied to the bodysides with the airbrush to give a nice “sheen”... looking relatively clean... but not like plastic. Some colour was added to the pipework receptacles... and it was all put to one side. I’m pleased with this.

     
    So that’s it. A first-part conversion; it is fine as it is... but it’s still very clean. Next I need to weather this, especially the roof and under frame... but the bodysides will be given a hint of grime but nothing over the top... the term (as Tim Shackleton put it in the article I’ll be following from REM 180) – is weathered to look clean... I’ll add this, once I’ve done it, in part 2.
     
    Now, a year or so ago, I bought a rake of Bachmann Mk 1s... when I get around to sorting those, I’ll probably want to add all the pipes. I’m going to need more magnets!
     
    Thanks for reading.... Jon
  4. Jon020
    The final stage of the lengthy 47 project began with the glazing. For this I used two packets of Extreme Etchings laserglaze... one packet for the Bachmann 47 (which I used in the bodyside and cabside windows) and the other for the Heljan 47 which I needed for the windscreens which were to sit in scale frames... and the Bachmann ones were too small.

    However, the Heljans ones were still a little large but these were simply sanded back using three grades of Tamiya sanding sticks to achieve a nice chamfered and smooth finish that would provide an interference fit to the screens; not that whilst I think Brian designed these screens to be fitted to the models from the outside, I needed to fit them from the inside to abut the new etched frames that adorned my loco.

    A test-fit allows a comparison with the original screens and the result is really something special. It has been shown before how the glazing can transform the model; George Dent did some nice articles on this for both Model Rail... and in his blog, but actually enlarging the apertures and fitting the frames... and glazing to fit can transform this model’s front end... so it’s still a bit of work, but well worth the effort.
    The screens were fitted and secured in place with Kleer around the edge of the screen... once secure, I applied a coat of kleer to the inner face and let this dry whilst the screen was horizontal... this dries lovely and flat and glass-like. Once these were all done, I did the same to the outer surfaces... which seals any slight gaps too. The glass-like appearance is different to the glazing on its own... but again, every little extra helps [now, where have I heard that before].

    As a slight diversion and to practice with some Humbrol weathering inks, I had a play around with the front end of my detailed (etc) Cravens 105... giving all the seams a weathered-in appearance more reminiscent of the actual units that I knew so well... and of course this is the one that I had the controls of (briefly) back in 1976. Applied to seep into the crevices and then wiped away, the result is pleasing. I’d use this eventually... a bit... when I weathered my 47.

    With the screens fitted, it was time to work on some final details; these included the windscreen wipers.
    After I responded with a bemused look to Mike when he asked whether I needed straight arm or pantograph wipers... I bought both and it taught me to do my research when buying from Brian ;-) anyway... I needed the straight arm wipers for “415” and these come posed as in-line or angled. Having looked at several photos the angled ones would not suit so I went for the in-line ones and bent these to shape... checking where the “pin” angle needed to be to give me the right arm length on the model. Now, several of Brian’s wipers can be bent to represent the wiper blade but these are a bit more 2-dimensionsal with a etched section representing the wiper blade holder.

    These looked nice, but I then added a short length of 33swg wire under the wiper to represent the rubber blade... and secured this in place with thin Zap-a-gap. As with most details, this can be a little fiddly, but it ends up looking like a decent “fine” blade and once the wire is touched-in in black (I used a permanent marker) it looks quite neat.

    Now, the original holes for the wipers were covered when I added the “eyebrow” fairings... so 0.4mm holes were drilled in what looked like the right positions for the wiper attachments [make sure photo references are used to get a good position]

    The wipers were pushed through and the arms bent inside to anchor in place... all secured with a dollop of glue n glaze which dries nice and clear, does not fog and still allows the wipers to flex a little.
    I positioned these at the two ends differently, just to provide a little more individuality and by checking reference photos again to ensure that the positioning would be (could be) genuine. The No. 1 end had these positioned towards the centre pillar, whereas the No. 2 end had the driver’s one positioned again to the centre pillar, but the No. 2 man’s one is positioned to the outside edge... which I liked.

    Now, there were a few more details that I wanted to add and these concerned the pipework that is visible though the engine room windows. I spent a lot of time checking this, identifying the windows through which the pipes were visible and then working out how to represent these... the more I looked, the more puzzled I became. I worked out which windows needed these but when I check contemporary (1974-75 era) photos I found that I might have been wasting my time. I’d planned to make a little plastic mask to sit around the windows, like a frame, and onto this I would attach the wires. The pic shows two slices of bluetack attached to the bodysides so that when I dropped this onto the chassis I could judge how much room I had (not a lot... but enough)

    But as I said, as I looked closer I realised that the pipes appeared later in their life (wonder what they were for?) and I found pics of 415 without the pipes (correct dates) when later shots of other locos showed them fitted ... so wey-hey, a job saved. However, there does seem to be some form of blind or screen that partially covers one window, so I made one up. I also noticed that it was quite common for the 2nd man’s sun blind to be extended... so with the same material, I made two of these up ... rectangular pieces of thin plastic card, with a piece cut out to prevent fouling the inner part of the wiper arms. All of these were painted grey and secured into the body with the glue n glaze as used before... and set aside to dry.

    So, I guess that was that. I secured the cabs in place and fitted the fans... and “did it all up”. I came very close to not weathering the body at all, because I really liked the overall finish I’d achieved (not perfect but “ok”)... but that would just not be right would it... but I grabbed a few “clean” shots before the airbrush got any closer.
    The shots do show the improvements that the etch parts provide at the loco ends... and the fan grills really do let those fans show through so wonderfully... it’s a crime not to replace these on any model.


    As before, the Sound chip (ESU V4 Leggomanbiffo) and big speaker are fitted in the top, with the sound coming through the fans orifice – having managed to allow enough passage of air around this, the sound is nice.
     
    Finishing
    Before the airbrush was brought out, I used the Humbrol weathering inks to highlight the cantrail grills and horn louvers. Applied carefully with a thin brush this put enough black into the recesses to make the grills “deeper” looking such that when weathered it all looked right.
    Weathering with the airbrush (my newer Iwata Revolution) came next. I did intend to take some shots as I went along, but I forgot. Sorry. Suffice to say, I started on the chassis and bogies. With reference to sufficient prototype photos in a plethora of books and the class47.co.uk gallery to hand, and (once the maskol had dried) I started with a dark-brown mix, formed of Frame dirt and some roof dirt (all paints being Railmatch enamels... which I like) which was gently misted over the whole bogies and fuel tanks... and bufferbeams in a very gentle manner, with very little paint and very little pressure. Gradually, an uneven pattern was built up, looking to see where dirt would accumulate and where it would mist-away. This is not a quick blast with one colour, but a gradual application of a dusting of dirt. With reference to photos, the 47 bogies tend to look darker when dirty than those of some other classes (gawd know why), but it’s best to stick with what you can see rather what you (think you) know.
    Once this was at a stage I was happy with, I used the same colour along the lower edges of the bodyside and around the front ends. This was then lifted with the usual technique of a cotton bud (Q-tip) soaked in white spirit and wiped on a towel to remove most of the liquid and then used to lift most of the paint. The bodysides are treated by moving the bud in a downwards movement dragging the paint down... the ends are treated similarly but with more dirt allowed to accumulate on the lower edges where it would remain; this gentle lifting leaves paint inside recessed areas so the bodyside steps and marker light clusters retain the ingrained dirt... which is good.
    Once this was all done, I changed the colour to a lighter shade with a higher percentage of sleeper grime, and applied this again to areas of the bogies, tanks and bufferbeams (and pipes). An irregular finish was sought and this was not such a saturated coat as before... giving more of a mottled appearance. Again, the body was treated as before, with further streaking of the bodyside achieved. However, unlike other classes, I decided that the bodysides would hold no patterns of dirt (unlike the tumblehone on a 37 or 55) and a clean (or wiped) appearance would be left – the coach wash plants will do a sound job to the slab sides of a 47... but they’ll miss the ends. Thus the ends were given more of a splatter and again wiped, but leaving more grime to accumulate at the lower edges.
     
    The roof is filthy... I wanted an appearance of a hard-worked loco... it’s just done a KingsX to Newcastle and back run... so it should not be too clean... and it’d be unlikely for Gateshead (it’s home depot) to give it a wash... so the overall finish would obscure that half-decent paint finish... but I did not want to lose the colour variation, so the roof-grey panels are still visible though the dirt.... just. I applied a number of passes of “roof dirt” starting from the engine exhaust and slowly working towards either end. Several light detail passes were made to prevent any colour shadow and blue showing through... especially at either end of the serck shutters... but eventually it was covered and still slightly uneven. I added some black to the mix and started again from the exhaust... adding some from the boiler too... maybe some Mk1 stock had been recently used.
     
    I then used some powders. The bogies needed some highlighting, and after adding some more humbrol black ink/wash enamel to the springs etc, I added some carrs light brown (possibly brake dust colour) to the bogie frames. I use a small brush dipped in the powder and brush this onto the plastic... a stiff brush helps and this can then be worked-in to the paint to build up patches of colour. This will be a bit harsh, so I then used some thinners (I had some humbrol thinners – not sure why, but they were in my paints box so I used them) to wash the powdered areas back a bit; this serves to blend the colour a little more and soften the effect. Again, working from photos the colour is added in carefully. Some further colours were added in to the bodyside lower edges (despite my earlier statement) to put some grime in the areas under the cab doors and around the nose ends (again), thus blending the body and chassis together. Finally, some black powders were ingrained into patches on the roof and around the main exhaust to provide some further roof colour variation.
     
    The Hornby wash enamel/inks came out again to highlight details such as the recess at the top of the cab doors, ridges between the windscreen “eyebrows” and rain strip and 34G shed plate rivets. The buffers were given a greasy mix of gun-metal and black... smeared on and wiped off with the top of a propelling pencil that has a nice buffer-shaped surface... and that was that.
     
    So... a few photos to show the end result.
    The first photo was not too easy to take, but it shows the subtle effect of the headcode lighting through the paper numbers .... not the transparent ones which I think are a) too bright and B) look wrong when not lit. Actually I think they look wrong when lit because no countering of the Halation effect has been taken. The actual digits (I did some research into this) were printed/painted onto their screens and the material of the white area was thinner to allow the light to pass through. BUT, not all of the white area was of a thinner material... only a thin portion of it was. So, for example, if we took a number 1 that was, oh I don’t know, 30 cm high and 3cm thick (in metric for our younger readers) then the thinner material through which light would pass would be 30cm high but 1cm thick; the effect of halation would cause the illuminated thin strip to bleed-out to the same area as the full digit but it would not distort. And that’s how they did it. So... to get it properly right, we’d need to do that in 4mm.... and no, I didn’t think so either, so I’m pleased that mine are nicely subdued as shown.

    Finally here’s a montage of a few shots that I grabbed once the loco was done, showing all four front quarters and some details around the tanks... which to be honest, I’m still rather pleased with.



    So that brings my project to a close. It’s had its challenges and I’m glad it’s finished... and I suppose that I’m glad that I did it and ended up with a model that looks as close to a 47 as I think I’m likely to get to in 4mm scale. Of course, there is the promise of some etched kits for cant rail grills and operable rad shutters... so maybe, just maybe that other Bachmann body that appeared in shot earlier in this entry might just get hacked about one day; I’ll never say never; but next I need a simpler project (remembering that this was my simple post Deltic project)... and that life does not always turn out the way one planned it.
     
    Until next time... cheerio.... and thanks for reading.
     
     
    Jon
     
    P.S. for those real nerds amongst us, I've uploaded a photo set to my flickr pages should you wish to refresh the whole project. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nimbus20/sets/72157629059423555/
  5. Jon020
    It’s been a while since my last status entry, so I thought that whilst sat trapped in a hotel, seemingly miles from attraction or civilisation, I’d draft an update on the 47 project... and this is the result, uploaded a day or so later.
    There was a little distraction since the last update because I decided to postpone the inevitable (painting) and do some more work on another “in work” project, that of a Craven DMU. I blogged this (part 1) and really ought to do the part 2 weathering bit too... yes I ought to; but for now, I’ll concentrate on the 47.
     
    At the last entry, the 47 was primed and ready for some paint (applying which is the part of the project I like the least). However, armed with my two old Lima UV bodies to practice on and some fresh (ish) Railmatch enamels and thinners, I set off. First off, I applied several thin coats of white primer to the ends of the 47. Whilst easy to do in principle, getting a reasonable finish is something I’ve previously struggled with, but this time it wasn’t too bad... although the upper lamp bracket is a really good mask to leave a shadow behind. This primer takes ages to dry though... two days later and it’s still tacky, so I decided not to rush it and find something else to keep me busy with, e.g. the Craven.
    Once finally dry, I applied several thin coats of Railmatch yellow (pre 84 warning panel yellow). This is a much lighter, less orangey shade than Bachmann’s colour and once finished is more appealing... to my eye anyway. Again, getting a reasonable finish involved several light coats to slowly build up the colour opacity. Once finished, this was again set to dry... and harden. Once dry, I masked the entire ends and applied some roof-grey to the roof panels... again with my Iwata Revolution and got a reasonably glossy finish which looked ok. I left the paint to harden for some time, and it was during this time that most of the Craven work got done... but I wanted the paint “hard” before applying the masking tape; I did not want the tape to “lift” the paint when it was peeled away.

    Masking was accomplished using some Precision tape (the red stuff) which is nicely thin and cuts well... and sits in the details nicely, and then some ordinary tape and maskol.
    Initially, as seen here, the precision tape has been applied around what turned out to be a complex shape to mask... before this exercise I’d not appreciated the gentle radius between the under-cab window horizontal and nose end vertical demarcation... or the transition between yellow and blue behind the cab door, but inside the outer skin dimension. More than once I found myself thinking how much easier large-logo would be... and would it be too much to change now...? Probably yes!
    Anyway, perseverance paid off and this was eventually complete, the roof sections being treated the same way overall. The ends were then treated to further masking with Tamiya tape and ordinary “wickes” masking tape... with Maskol blatted all over to fill any remaining (possible) gaps. I really needed to sort that roof fan grill out... and with a gentle push it’s smoother now.

     
    Spraying followed the previously mentioned technique of “easy does it”. Using a thin mix of Railmatch BR Blue enamel (207 I think) through my Iwata, I misted some colour over the masking edges, into the grills and around other apertures; the Tamiya stand is a very useful tool... before I’d used a precision paints clamp tool – that you have to hold – this one gives you both hands to work with... much easier!

    The paint wafting has continued. When I say wafting, it’s a low pressure direct application of thin paint; its thinness allows it to bleed together and form a smooth surface and gives control over how much goes down in each pass... takes a while but better than a risky blast at full pressure and lots of paint.

    As you can see, I worked on the roof, and the two sides separately ... moving to the next to allow some quick drying (to tacky) time between each layer. Here, I’m building up some tone to the sides.

    Again... several more coats have gone on and the roof is getting close, and the sides are not bad either.

    ... and that’s that. The last coats are applied and full opacity reached. The finish isn’t perfect, I wish I could get it perfect, honestly, but it’ll do.

    The body then sits inside my drying box... to go “off”... I left it in here for a couple of hours to let the paint get “almost” touch dry before removing the masking tape and then leaving it for a day to check for bleed though (removed with a cocktail stick dipped in white spirit... and then for a few more days to harden.

    One “masking removed” shot shows that the finish isn’t bad... although I’d like to get better at this and not feel quite so nervous about this phase... memories of the Deltic project still haunt... although at least I learnt all about paint stripping! This time however, I was quite happy.

    Some family duties delayed much further work for a while... although I wanted the paint to harden anyway; these did allow a brief pop-in to Sheffield park to catch the diseasel on service train duty


    ... and a run up to Birmingham following the Chilterns route... albeit on their DMUs (comfortable enough) and not the Mk3 “silver train” ... although I did introduce my boys to the concept of train-spotting... and the numbers-game kept them quiet ;-)



     
    Then it was my youngest’s birthday, so I knocked him up a display track for his Virgin Voyager... which he didn’t know he was getting... just spare code 100 track (sprayed with a sleeper grime aerosol), some carrs ballast and hanging basket liner and scatter. He was pleased (he said that he really wasn’t expecting it... so it’s nice to still be able to surprise a 9 year old occasionally) and the Red of the Vomit Comet really stood out nicely against the browns and green... this now sits on the shelf above his bed... with the VC displayed.


     
    I then went back to the 47 and applied some gloss varnish (Railmatch) to the areas of the bodyside that would be treated to decals... once dry (and smooth and shiny) I started with the decals.
    The decals are a mix of mostly Fox – BR arrows, overhead flashes and numbers, and precision labels for the shed data panel.
    I looked at numerous photos and the spare 47 body I had, to verify positioning of all markings. The BR arrows went on first... and then the warning flashes. The numbers would be trickier as they needed to be “made up”. Fox supply a single sheet of mixed numbers, from which the “47” can be applied, but the other numerals need applying individually and this was a test of patience; maybe I shouldn’t have tried to do it on one of the (then) warmest evenings of the year... but I did get there ... in the end... although several numerals ended up in the bin rather than on the model; it happens!
    I masked up the existing spare body and then applied masking similarly to my new model to act as a guide for the numbers.

    It worked, and with the shed/data panel added under this, all was put aside to dry

    The model was then sat on its chassis for a test shot... and it’s starting to look ok.

     
    A coat of satin varnish over the whole surface evened up the finish and provided a hard finish to work from after; I prefer Satin to matt as it give a slightly less flat finish.
     
    With the body now put to one side, I decided to go back to the chassis, connect the wiring and drive shafts and attach the speaker that I liberated from a Bachmann sound 57... which with a little fettling of the plastic case sat in the chassis surround nicely. The buffers were re-sprung and fitted with a little plastic piece to restrict forward travel glued to the rear base (that I’d filed off to remove them initially).
    With the speaker fitted I was concerned that there would still be room for the fans... which needed to be fitted to make the most of those delicious grills; I was also concerned that the plate the fans sit on would blank the sound waves... so I set about making a new one to hold the fans in place.

    Made from a piece of evergreen strip, with nickel silver strip at its edges for strength... and 4 holes drilled at the correct points... the whole will hold the fans and allow plenty of sound to pass.

    Once painted black and fitted to the original mounts, this thinner plate (thinner in height too) allows the fans to be fitted and sound pass. Originally I’d planned tank mounted speakers but with all the work done “down there” I thought it best to leave that be... either way, the sound is good enough for what I’ll want.

    Fitted fans... and the difference from the original is really quite obvious. They’rrrreeeeee great!

     
    A further element to address is the train-reporting code... and given that the model started as a solid box two-light unit (47 035) there was quite a bit to rework and with the gaping hole sorted, it now needed to be filled. As shown in a previous post I made some transparent plates to fit from inside and made similar glazing to attach to the front (fixed with “Klear”)... but I needed some codes.... cue very cruel close up... showing what I still cannot see with my eyes! I’ve just bought (second hand) a Canon SX10is... not a bad bit of kit for £75 including bag, filters, SD card and batteries... and this has a super-macro that allows focusing at about 1cm. Streuth, this can be cruel! Useful for those bench shot though... I’ll keep the EOS 60D (and 400D as backup) for those out-door shots.

    As the loco was a Gateshead loco in 1974, before being transferred back to Finsbury Park in 75, I felt (after much deliberation) that a Newcastle to Kings Cross (and back) service would suffice. Whilst I decided to give the loco a little layover at GD or Passenger Loco, the codes were ones I’s found photos of 47s carrying ... and they’re a service often carried by 55s too... so it’s a similar express service... So, it’s 1A07 (07:20 Newcastle to Kings Cross – “Newcastle executive”) and 1N14 (11:47 Kings Cross to Newcastle) that got picked.

    These were made using solid precision labels... individual digits, with a covering over the top of a four-piece frame transparent piece – for the Heljan class 35... but sized well for the Bach 47... the Heljan ones still being too big.

    Using individual digits allowed the code to be represented in slightly wonky manner, something I wanted to represent as I’d done before with the 55; with 1N1 4 relatively straight 1A07 is nicely unbalanced.
    Once fitted, these should all look fine... hopefully
     
    Thanks for reading... and for keeping with me on this mammoth project. Hmmm... perhaps I should have numbered this as 47 085 ;-)
     
    Jon.
  6. Jon020
    It’s been a while since I posted an update; sorry about that. I added some gallery photos, but I’ve missed out on the dialogue obtained from these great blogs... so hopefully this will be a start to remedy that.
    Life has been getting in the way of modelling... but given that “life” has included a couple of trips up to the ELR and some 2 and 4 stroke diesel encounters, and a model show or two, life’s not caused too much of a railway abstention.
     
    Well, I started trying a light improvement to the model’s bogies, but it’s not ended up going that way... maybe I have taken on more that I really intended, but if I can continue what I’ve achieved so far, they’ll probably look ok. Or rather, that’s the hope. No springing here... but hopefully a reasonable visual impact.
     
    First of all... where we were previously, the bogie frame was cleaned up of its pipework, springs and other “Class 57” fittings. A plastic card plate was added, and new springs manufactured from 0.4mm brass wire (or was it 0.6... I’d better check before I make the next one)... I used microstrip wrapped around the ends of the springs to represent the spring cups. I wish this was as easy as it sounds... these were a fiddle, but got easier as they went on... all secured with thin (pink) zap-a-gap.

    Some holes needed opening up in the casting and side lugs... some new broaches helped get a clean cut.


    At Railex earlier this year I ended up talking to Ian Penberth who’s making some sprung bogie kits. These looked very nice, so I acquired one for the 47. This arrived and I opened it all up.... read through bits of the instructions, whimpered a bit, and put it all away again. I’ve since spoken to Ian and he understands my problem, so hopefully some further guidance will eventually be forthcoming and I’ll feel brave enough to give it a go again. For now, I’ll concentrate of the visual look of the loco and leave the smooth running of diesels to the likes of Ian and Justin N.

    The inner springs were constructed in the same manner as the outers but didn’t need the cups... side plates were made from plastic card. The inner brake hanger mounting needs some trimming to permit these to be fitted.

    Sitting in front of the inner springs is a small square plate ... not sure what this was for, but these were made from a couple of layers of plastic card, shaped and with 0.3mm holes drilled in the relevant locations.

    A comparison of the before and after brake hangers.

    To fit the brake links, I found it necessary to pare the material back to enable the ultrascales to fit... some careful use with a sharp blade was necessary; shame I wasn’t so careful with my fingers.

    Once finished, some 33swg wire was used to “pin” the brake units back in place.

    A test fit to check that all was well.

    I’d made a representation of the pipe work using the 33swg wire with plastic micro rod drilled out... and sections slid onto the wire to represent the unions and fittings. Bending the wire as the fitting progresses allows a reasonable effect... or rather at least one that I was happy with.

    Part of the part that wasn’t too well represented by the Bachmann part is the part that I’d refer to as the brake lever/linkage mechanism. This is represented on the Heljan sideframes, but it’s all a bit clunky and whilst Bachmann bits are included (only half of those actually needed), I thought that some work could be done. The main frame was made with some thinned down spare etch fret, carefully bent using some tweezers and fitted to two slithers of plastic card and microstrip... which was used to anchor it too.
    The brake rod was made with a bit of 0.4mm wire, plastic rod and microstrip, which was then inserted into the casting’s hole and attached to the frame.


    One item that I needed to think about was the mechanism spring. I used the 33swg wire again and wrapped it around a thin pin from the wife’s needlework box... too big! So I fed another piece of wire into the frame of my fret saw and wrapped a piece of wire around this. It was at this point that I found myself thinking (again) that I must be mad going to this extreme... it’s not doing my eyesight much good ... but hopefully the end result will be worth it.


    Once cut to length, a straight piece of wire was inserted into the coiled wire, and this was looped at each end. Seperate “hooks” were made for the attachments, one fitted through a 0.3mm hole drilled into the microstrip section attached to the bogie casting. Once the bits were fitted together, they were assembled on the bogie and positioned as “looked” right.

    In close up, I think it’s ok... well, it’s all my eyesight could manage.
     
    So, that’s one corner done... now for the other 4 of this bogie, and then I can start the other one... assuming I manage to ward off the men in white coats that is


     
    I’ve also been contemplating a “display”. Today I gave my new circular saw a go on some lengths of spare ply. I might just knock up that spare C10 turnout and pair then up as a crossing, with some straights for a plank... thinking Jim SW work... but not quite that good. No plan yet... but it’ll be good to work out how to work my turnouts.
     
    Thanks for reading....
    Jon
  7. Jon020
    It’s been a little while since my last update and I wish that I’d more to show, but I’ve been busy with work, a writing project and “real” trains and photos... but there has been some progress and with the impending “exhibition” tomorrow, I though a brief update would be in order.
    Not much here requires much in the way of explanation, so the text will be kept short; I think that the pictures will be able to do most of the explaining and make up for the absence of the 1000s of words.
     
    First off, I took my eldest to Ally Pally, for his first “big” model show. I think he enjoyed it, and he was certainly transfixed by the movements on Copenhagen Fields.

     
    So, it was only “right” that after the show, we would head south by First Capital rather than Piccadilly and trace the same route into Kings Cross; the weather was “foul” but he got to experience the emerging-from-Gasworks... and the scene from the platform ends. Look! There’s a fake-fur-lined hood on that anorak ;-)

    Anyway, back to the modelling, and the previously reshaped buffers got a polishing with some fine 1000 grade paper before being blackened using some Birchwood Casey Brass-Black fluid.

    Scroll down to see the assembled loco and you’ll see how they look now.
    I also added some details to the cabs which would be visible through the glazing. Whether it’ll all be visible is not the point, I’ll know it’s there. Mostly use of plastic-card, plastic rod and microstrip and some fine gauge (33 I think) wire for the controls and a piece of 0.6mm wire for the phone. The handbrake wheel is from Wizard models.

     
    I also set up to produce a small display plinth for the Burgess Hill MRC show (tomorrow) and used my previous technique of detailing a re-gauged peco buffer stop attached to a small length of C&L bullhead flexi track. The joiners between the sleepers were removed to enable the buffer to sit between the chairs rather than interfere.

    The buffers and pieces of the 47 assembly were then treated to several light coats of Halfords red primer and then suspended to dry in my drying box.

     
    Another diversion at Easter (Monday) took us to the Bluebell (well, it’s local) and our first time since opening all the way to East Grinstead. Despite what some might think, I was pleased to see the 33 sat at Horsted Keynes, and my boys and I went over and gave it a good “looking at”. These push-pull bagpipe 33s are quite nice!

    We took two runs upto East Grinstead, once behind 263 and then with the visiting 9F 92212. The day was cold... snow showers in the morning, but the sun did come out and it was nice in the afternoon. Here 92212 approaches the viaduct just south of East Grinstead

    When the sun did come out, the opportunity to grab some shots of the U class was not missed

    Back to the modelling, and the display plank was continued with the two short and one longer length of bullhead track ballasted with a mix of Carrs 2mm grey ballast on the through line, and mostly Carrs Ash Ballast on the two sidings lines. Carrs powders were used to add some tonal variation... but it’s not finished yet.

    In March, I received a really useful PM from Dave (DJK) on here talking about the 47 tanks. Dave pointed out that there were two versions of the tanks that he’d spotted in the 80s.
    Here's one type
    http://www.class47.co.uk/c47_zoom_v3.php?img=0934000214000
     
    And this is the other
    http://www.class47.co.uk/c47_zoom_v3.php?img=1009020205000
     
    I was aghast. I’d not spotted this, and then realised that my intended loco 47414 had the other type of tanks to the ones I’d modelled (insert profanity here). So, after a little discussion and help from Dave, I found that actually, given all of the other variations that I was modelling I could merely “go up by one” and model 47415 instead as this had the more common tanks... that I’d used. I’m still baffled as to what the difference is for... but it’s there, and now we know it. So, thanks Dave... error corrected before it became an issue
     
    I realised that I’d forgotten the speedo pickup on the class 47 bogie, so with reference to numerous photos, some plastic rod, plastic card and wire, I knocked up this small contraption which I then secured to the centre hub of the right bogie with some thin CA glue (zap-a-gap pink).

    A light re-coating of primer brought this all back together

    A little more work on the display plinth saw some weeds added. This was hanging basket liner glued in place and then (once dried) trimmed with a beard trimmer and dusted with some scatter material. Lots of titivation followed to trim it further and in the end it looked ok... I think some more trimming was to come after this photo was taken, but you get the idea.

     
    Another diversion occurred at the end of April when I spent two days at the Mid-Hants Diesel Gala – their first one for some years. And very enjoyable it was too with a mix of weather and a photo shoot on the Friday evening.... and then I took my two boys over on the Sunday for some proper haulage and their first Deltic experience... their comments after standing on the platform as Alycidon thrummed passed were priceless. Anyway, some reasonable photos were taken... including somem useful reference shots of 1501:

    and





    A nice one of Alycidon (actually I took quite a few, but I do like this one)

    And one from the evening shoot

    The rest of my photos are here http://www.flickr.com/photos/nimbus20/sets/72157633389311509/with/8703182230/ if that’s your thing.
    So, after this, it was back to the 47 and an opportunity to get the airbrush out and apply some weathered black to all the underframe parts. It took some covering, but eventually I was happy with the dull result... exactly what I wanted pre-weathering... and no shiny plastic looking parts seen anywhere. Here the blackened buffers are pushed in to the chassis whilst it sits balanced over the bogie frames with the primed body.

     
    Inside, the cab got some paint added, and overall I think it looks ok. Clearly the limitation with this model is where the floor is... and this lack of depth could be a problem but there’s no option if you want to retain the lights on the model as this is where that sits. So, here after everything else was painted, I applied a wash of thin black paint to the whole of the floor surface and then once that was “almost” dry applied some Carrs black (soot?) weathering powder to the mix and worked it all in – and this was the result. It should be ok.

    Looking through the cab windows, the bulkhead equipment should be visible.

    This photo does shoe that one task to do very soon will be to give the whole surface a going over with some 1000 grade paper to smooth that primer off... that should be quite therapeutic!
     
    So, that’s about it... the display plinth was finished; I made up a pair of display blocks to lift the plinth off the exhibition table (better viewing angle) and added the old lighting frame from last year (and the light from over my desk).

    And then grabbed a quick shot of the 47 posed on the plinth once I’d managed to get it all back together. I had to lose the glazing for the reporting panel as it was too deep and stopping the chassis-body mating properly; but I’ll sort that later.

     
    Anyway, that’s if for now... now need to get the boys tea and start to pack for tomorrow’s show... try to remember what I’m bound to have forgotten... and survive another evening with this horrific dry hacking cough that I picked up just over a week ago; anyone else got it..? It’s horrible and prevents sleep. The wife said it’s what people call the 90-day cough. I hope it isn’t; I’ve had it for about 8 days now and enough is enough. Anyway, the show must go on!
     
    Thanks for reading..... Jon
  8. Jon020
    Having completed work on the underframe, it was time to work on that middle bit... the chassis, which is framed nicely at each end by that concentration of minutiae of detail, the bufferbeams.
    The first thing to look at is those buffers. No matter what I did I could not accept that they were quite right. Size wise they looked ok, but..... I spent some time googling replacements but didn’t find any on-line and the next exhibition was a few weeks off... so what to do!? Actually, I think it was easy. First I removed the buffers from their shanks, using a burr tool (is that the right name? I can never get it right in my head when drafting these entries)


    I removed the edges of the flattened ends of the metal shaft and then put the springs away very carefully.
    I then mounted the buffer in the chuck of my mini drill (not really so “mini”... but it was from Lidl, and cheap)... and with various grades of paper, re-profiled the buffer to remove the centre-flat and rounded edge look to a more prototypical dome.

    I used a 0.4mm drill held in a pin vice to “drill” out a small hole in the centre

    ...and “hey presto” the result is “much better”.


    The next step is to adjust the buffer beam surrounds as they’re a little deep. Filing and sanding the profile back a little (not much) achieves a more pleasing result.
    Before....

    After ....

    Due to the change in depth, the side cover plate is filed off; this will be replaced later with a piece of plasticard or metal (whatever I find that does the job).
     
    Then there’s the lower lamp brackets to do. These were represented by simple plastic pieces attached to the bufferbeam surround, which is not the right location. The actual brackets are a complex shape, so I made these using some shawplan lamp bracket etches, folded to the appropriate size with two plasticard slithers to represent the solid base and bracket web, attached with zap-a-gap. Into the lower plastic piece I drilled a 0.3mm hole to take a short length of wire that I’d use to attach the bracket to the buffer shroud.

    I made four of these successfully with only a few throw aways along the way and stored them away with some checkerplate that would then be thinned down for the buffer shroud step plate.

     
    The bogie ride was attached next. On this model, the body tended to rock on its bogies. I found the reason for this was the shape of the bogie spigot which sits inside the chamfered hole in the chassis metal work... but not all the way through so it rocks – easily solved by filing off the sides of the larger diameter so it sits properly in its hole. The one of the left is still to do, but the one of the right hopefully illustrates the difference.

    Actually, this made the loco look a little low when I did my first assembly, so I added some packer pieces to the top to give a better ride height.

    I had another significant problem on reassembly when I found that the bogies at the no. 2 end fouled the fuel tanks... although there was still quite a gap at the no. 1 end. Easily solved... I just moved the tanks, which I’d yet to glue in place. I opened out the holes that the clips sit in and shuffled it along. However, now the clips had moved, their protruding upper parts fouled the metal chassis, so I filed their tops flush and glued it all in place.

     
    A second trial assembly followed and this time it all went together much better.
    As you can see, the bufferbeams have been equipped with a selection of the provided pipework with some additions: the vac pipe has a bracket added and the train air supply and steam heat are shawplan white metal items. At this stage, I’d still to remove the revised bufferbeam cowl cover plates that I’d filed from a thin brass sheet fret (rivets punched through) and fit some better shaped ones (now done) and add the bufferbeam steps – again some shawplan parts for the class 56 (thanks Brian).


     
    Then it was back to the body and a replacement to the fan grills which I’d fitted early on and then damaged (they are fragile)! After much fiddling around, I got two on that looked ok and left it at that.
    I also replaced the handrails on the serck rad shutters. I looked at photos to see if any other fine mouldings needed replacing but the conclusion I came to was that these were enough. 0.3mm wire through holes drilled in place or scraped away mouldings; nothing unusual about that.

    Then I had a thought about the headcode (train reporting panel). This model had been a solid domino panel before, so I’d drilled this all out and filed something to shape. Now I had to sort out the inners. I wanted the backlighting to still work, so I made up a couple of templates for the outer glazed area (which I’d apply once the model was finished) and one for the inner. I then cut out some clear acetate sheet to the size of the inner area and attached this using glue and glaze to a slightly larger sheet that would hold it in place from inside.

    Once trial fitted... and held in place it should be ok. Here it all looks clouded, but it’s now dried nice and clear.

    And from inside, so you can see where it’ll be fixed

     
    I ordered some backlit Precision Labels headcodes and these are on their way. These will be added to the front of the inner glazing, and then the outer glazing will be affixed with Klear along the inner edges once all is complete... but before that, I’ll need to sort out some primer and then proper paint – so come on weather, warm up please, there are people here waiting to do some painting and we need warmer weather.... please!
     
    So, that’s about all for now... I hope it’s been of interest.
    Thanks for reading
    Jon
     
    EDIT - and hopefully the images have loaded correctly this time!
  9. Jon020
    Well, it’s been a while since my last proper update on this project... which is now into its 2nd year, so I’ll try to address this omission. The 47 project has been tackled bit by bit; the bogie frames were a task tackled after some consideration as to how to improve on the offerings provided by Bachmann. I picked up some Heljan bogie sideframes (suggested by Jim SW) and whilst these looked nice, I thought that they still lacked form fidelity and fixing them to the Bachmann bogies might be troublesome... although I was sure I’d be able to work something out. The ViTrains bogies looked nice too, but I didn’t see any available as spares. Lima’s ones look good too, but I decided that the Bachmann one could possibly be reworked to remove the erroneous elements and improve on the detail provided. Most of the work was blogged in my last update (part 5) so I’ll not go into what I covered already... but I’ll fill in some bits that I missed, or that I just feel like adding to.
     
    With the second bogie modified by removing all incorrect pipework and “lean” springs, the fabricated springs were fitted (as before) and further refinement tackled. The brake mechanism seems to run through the bogie casting, so representative openings were needed. These were drilled out of the frame using a 0.6mm drill bit carefully held with a pin vice.

    Once drilled, a broach was used to elongate the hole to give the correct proportions... and then this repeated for each side and end.

    The sideframe pipework is represented using 0.25mm nickel wire, onto which sections of evergreen “microrod” (that’s what I’ll call it) were added. The rod is carefully drilled out with a 0.3mm drill to form a tube section, and once the eyesight has recovered, these can be cut into sections of the correct length, bit by bit and slid onto the wire.

    The two main sections of pipework can then be attached to the bogie side frame (one side only) using zap-a-gap pink to secure each plastic tube “union” or clip to the bogie frame, bending the wire at the determined-to-be correct point and working outwards from the centre. This is a task to enjoy looking back at and I’m happy not to need to repeat this again anytime soon. Here, both completed bogies show slight variation in pipe run; whether this matters or not is probably irrelevant as the pipe runs will not both be visible simultaneously. It’ll do.

    The bogie was then finished with the brake mechanism manufactured as previously reported (although I’m sure my eyes were more strained this time) and the refined fitting of the PHDesigns steps (which need refinement to fit over the top of the new pipework. This simple refinement just involves small slithers of microstrip added to the step brackets to “lift” them away from the sideframes by about 0.5mm. Once finished, I took a breather.


     
    Underframe.
    The next task to tackle, after some slight distractions through repainting the ends of the Craven DMU that’s also vying for my attention (Railmatch yellow rather than Bachmann yellow is less orangey), and a re-badging of a 3-rail Hornby Dublo West Country... I decided that it was time to tackle the underframe tanks. I’d seen some photos previously of how these could be corrected, but I was dammed if I could find them.
    After a busy weekend that involved a day in London for a wedding banquet ... with a trip to the East end first... and a quick “grab” shot as we passed through Liverpool St Stn... (Mrs Jon020 tolerating this... although I had to explain that it was a “loco”

    ... much nicer than our boring units)

    ... and a "drive" the DLR

    ... and then all the snowy weather had finished its fatherly distractions such as path/driveway/road clearing of snow, and the mandatory sledging supervision... and of course the sledge-test, to make sure the slope was safe ,

    ...attention could be returned to more mundane workbench activities. To this end I did a search on google images to find some suitable reference material and finally, through the pages of the old RMWeb, I found a thread covering this subject. The problem here is that because I’m depicting an early generator in 1974 condition, the full tanks would be represented; I’d taken some shots of 47401 at Swanwick last year, but this has lost most of the tanks so wasn't much help. However, the RMWeb thread assisted and I had some material to work from.
    Wow... these tanks were going to need more work than I’d bargained on. However, after an hour or so in contemplation looking at the photos and the plastic lump that is the Bachmann offering, I made a start.
    The first thing that strikes me, having reworked the Class 55 tanks previously (thanks Brian) was the need to remove the unnecessary webbing between the frame and tanks/batt boxes... phew no Lithium Cobalt Oxide on these babies ;-). I attacked one end of the moulding with a fine saw and then drilled/cut out the material between the two... this first step looking reasonable and not resulting in too many broken drills or sliced finger tips. The frame/bracket lightening holes were also opened out using a 0.4mm drill and broach... sanded clean after with some 1000 grade paper.
    Then I cut the “wrong” end mouldings off, again with the saw blade to leave a workable shape. The end seen on the right here was cut vertically and horizontally to leave the upper face and bracket in place; the left hand end was just sliced off with a vertical cut.

    On one side, there is a small panel with two hose fittings or unions at the bottom of the tanks (drains or fillers?) and to provision for these, I cut away a corner of both “lumps” using a combination of drill/file, cut and an abrader (dremel type thingy).

    I then closed the gap between the two tanks, inserting two strips of evergreen strip to each side, trimmed to shape, effectively closing the gap nicely. Two extra thin pieces were added as bases for the panel.

    Inside these were blanked off with two small quadrant shaped pieces of the same material... all affixed with pink zap-a-gap.

    The base plate was filed flush with the tank sides and a back piece attached across the gap (per prototype photo references)

    The unions were made from plastic rod, drilled out with a 0.6mm drill, superglued in place. A 0.4mm drill was used to put a hole through the base and a length of short 0.4mm wire inserted for the pipework. A slither of plastic cut to shape made the centre cover.

    I then took my thinnest sheet of plastic card and with some 120 grade paper thinned a piece if it down further... to the extent that light passed through it and allowed a measure of where the thin material was.

    From this I cut a rectangular section and affixed it to below the panel for the lower cover.

    I then carried on removing the rest of the material from above the other tank/batt box,

    ....extended the brackets with thinned micro strip (holes drilled with 0.3mm drill) and with two pieces of micro strip, corrected the shape of the battery boxes.

    One important task was the replacement of the fuel gauges which are too big and, slightly more importantly, in the wrong place. I cut/filled/sanded the existing ones off, polishing with 1000 grade paper, and then set about working out how to fit new ones. I thought about using the spare “test” etch deltic fuel gauges that Brian had given me... they’re very nice but a bit big for the old 47. So... I drilled a largish hole in approximately the right place, inserted a length of plastic rod thinned to give an interference fit, recessed (not flush) with the outer face, drilled a hole through the centre of this... about 1mm I think... and inserted another length of thin rod through this. This was then filed flush and a recess drilled (cut) into its face to represent the dial face. It’s not brillian, but with some paint hopefully it’ll look reasonable. After repeating the same process for all the items with the other side (without the additional panel as it’s not there), I added the new end “shapes” with a laminate of thicker plastic card cut to shape. I closed out the cut outs at one end with an angle piece of strip and then added a thick T piece to represent the continuation of the attachment bracing... superglued in place with a mix of zap-a-gap green and pink.

    A similar, shorter section was added at the other end... for the same reason... and inspected thoroughly.

    Then it was just a case of referring to numerous photos and adding various small items such as blocks, unions on brackets (tube on micro strip) taps (0.4mm wire and micro rod and micro strip) and those big rectangular blocks that hang near the bogie (plastic card with micro strip framing.
    All pipe runs were added using a mix of 0.6, 0.4 and 0.25mm wire, drilled and glued in place accordingly.

    Finally, a few test-fits to the chassis frame and body were used. I’ve a Bachmann 57 to hand, which I keep looking at to see where the bogie sits and I think I’ll have enough clearance, although that big pipe will foul the bogie of it turn too far – it’ll will not have to then will it!


    I think that the end result is quite reasonable, and that with a little primer to blend it all in it should look half decent. I still need to get the knack of using the new Daylight LED spot lights that came with my mini photo studio (although I changed the “hot” bulbs with the LED daylights)... because the white bits in the photo are over exposed... I’ll grab some better ones at some point.
    This project has turned into a bit of another mammoth exercise, and I would like to continue to thank all who have helped my sanity with suggestions of where to look for details ... and especially to those on the Class 47 group on here... the hosts of the Class47.co.uk website and the new 47 group on facebook (yes the social network can have its uses)

    That’s all for now... hope it’s enough to be getting on with
     
    Jon
  10. Jon020
    Well , it’s been far too long since my last blog update; I’d love to show how much I’ve achieved in the last, er... nearly 3 months, and I have found some time to get some modelling done, just not as much as I’d have liked to. I suppose that work and life interspersed with some energy sapping episodes have slowed things down a bit; life tends to be like that. So, this update will lack and definitive progress, but there’s a bit of variety that I found useful to keep the interest going.
     
    A green Heljan Hymek
    First of all, a small job for a friend saw me tackling a green Heljan Hymek; it’s a lovely tidy loco but the chassis mouldings are all black; a request to purely paint the bufferbeam red, let me to also paint the surrounds; quite these are supplied black is beyond me. Working out the right colour for these was a little challenging, but a mix of yellow, white and olive green gave me a shade that reasonably well matched the body; 3 coats of this, a few coats of red and some Klear over the top gave a reasonable result.

    I really must treat myself to a new mixing pallet.
    Some light weathering was also called for, and after treating the bodysides to some Klear, to give the colour some depth. I gave the tanks at the loco ends a coat of white, and the axlebox covers were given a couple of coats of yellow; the fuel tanks gauge and valve were given a little red too.
    The usual technique of applying a dirty brown mix with the airbrush and then removing most of this with a white-spirit soaked cotton bud (over and over again), was applied to the bodysides and ends, with a greyer mix to the roof. The underframe was treated to more of the brown mix (mostly frame dirt/sleeper grime) with some rust dusted around a few components; it was only a quick weathering job, but the loco is toned down nicely, and Cliff seemed quite happy with it back on his layout.

     
    A day out for Nimbus: My Nimbus put in a very brief appearance on Diesels in the Dutchy during the Uckfield MRC show back in October. For gauging reasons, both in length but more importantly in track gauge, it didn’t run... but looked quite nice sat on the turntable.


    Thanks to Damien for the suggestion/offer although I did think it looked a little out of place.... lovely layout that!
     
    47 Bogie

    The first of the bogies finally got finished and I’ve made a start on the second one; the first was quite a job and the prospect of the second is still a little daunting; those springs took quite an effort to fit... but I’ll get there. So far the doner part has been cleaned up with all extraneous mouldings removed; the main springs will be first; that’s something to “look forward to” in the New Year.

    The final shot shows the finished bogie protected in its own box whilst the other one sits with assorted bits in another... with a pair of Heljan sideframes for comparison.

     
    Craven,
    So with the 47 sapping my enthusiasm, I decided I needed a quick detailing job and decided the conversion of my Bachmann 105 to a Kings Cross Unit would be just that.

    This is a lovely model and doesn’t need too much doing to it.... yea yea yea.... and so most of my projects start out. To be honest, this one’s not bad, it’s just that when you start looking, more is there to be found. So, for this one, I just wanted to change the headcode panel from a blank black panel to one that showed the common code B2, ubiquitous to the Kings Cross suburban routes, especially those out to my local stn at the time, Hertford North.
     
    Step 1: This will be easy, just pop out the headcode glazing – ah, it won’t shift.... right, from behind, file off the rear part... that’s the black plastic gone and... oh ‘eck that’s too thick; a thinning down of the material inside the nose gave a “better” depth to the glazing. Filing was followed by sanding and then polishing with Tee cut to smooth the glazing out. Right, find an appropriate headcode (Precision) label for B2 and pop it in; ah that font looks wrong; yes, it’s wrong. Right! Lets try printing one... nope! Can’t find an appropriate font, crikey that “2” is an odd shape. Right! I’ll draw one.... that’ll do.


    Not as “black” as the labels, but these faded in service and this will do... it’s closer than the std text I found anyway.
     
    Step2: Below the headcode panel is a moulded grill. It’ll have to go. Don’t recall seeing any of these with this in service. Check photos (the crave images group on flickr is a useful reference http://www.flickr.com/groups/1362082@N24/ ) ... ah, look a blanking panel! Right, file away the moulding and place a rectangle of plastic card over where it had been. The thinnest plastic card was used... and I then thinned this down with some sand paper so that it was so thin it was almost translucent, cut them to shape and stuck them in place with the usual “good old” Zap a gap green.

    I tried representing the rivet detail with archers rivet transfers, but these were actually too big... so I gave up... and gave the nose a new panel; the rivets are barely visible in photos anyway.
     
    Step 3: The destination blind was another item to replace, the model arriving with Norwich and Peterborough... I think.... and these had to go. Easier said than done. The panel is a two piece item; the inner piece has to be prized out from inside carefully... and the outer piece has to be carefully pushed from behind; I used a cocktail stick. Placing the nose of the coach on a foam pad faced down, the glazing came out with a push on the stick and a nasty sounding “crack”...but it was just the glue breaking. The printed destination can then be filed off the back of this ... cleaning up with finer paper and then a Tee-cut polishing. Destinations were printed off using successive text sizes once a suitable font was found... the font needs to be small enough to display the name; as the two I chose were different lengths, the fonts were different too; trial and error gets you there eventually. These were cut to about the right size and pushed in from behind once the outer glazing had been interference fit’ted back in place; the inner piece was held in place with some glue and glaze.
     
    Step 4: This is getting complex! Looking at photos I noticed that the wipers had a shroud over the top of them. After some thought, I attempted to reproduce these from plastic card, again thinned to just a few molecules thick, or so it seemed. The actual wiper mechanism needed some thinning too, to allow the shroud to fit over it; the Bachmann ones are a little chunky, but they’ll do. I did try replacing them with some shawplan ones I had to hand (for a 47) but they were too short, so I stuck with these. Here in this before/after image, I’ve painted them with metal coat... but they might need doing again.

    Once I'd gone back and done them both ... they look a little better.

     
    Steps 5 and 6: Other jobs were removing the date banner from the windscreen glazing, painting the cab controls, adding a driver (I used the one I’d prepared for my 47... which I’ll now need to do another one for) and painting the interior.... I’m not sure why Bachmann didn’t bother with this, their colours were quite wrong... so a subtle correction has been started with more to do. Oh, and then I declassified the first class section. I really don’t recall the first class section of these later on; I’m sure some had them but photos suggest declassified compartments... so the yellow strip was removed with Tee cut.

     
    Step 7: I really didn’t like the moulding line on the side of the nose, so I cleaned these up... thus leaving an unsightly blue line through the yellow. I tried to touch this up but eventually concluded that the Bachmann colour is just wrong! So, whilst these have been touched up a bit, they will both be treated to a coat (or 3) of the correct yellow (pre-84) from the Railmatch range. I duly masked one end up thinking I’d have time this week to give the airbrush a go... but I wont.

    So, the masking has been removed until time/life allows me some time to get this done. Once that's done, I'll have lost the white LW markings... but as these should actually be written on blue squares in this location they'd need to be changed anyway...so a new label or bit of paint will follow.
     
    Apart from adding some passengers, which I’m considering, bufferbeam detailing and inter-coach connections.... and a rewheeling of course (which ones to use and how to tackle this I’m yet to work out)... a light weathering (per Tim Shackleton’s REM article on the weathering a 108) will see this finished. Should I ever get that Passenger Loco depot plan sorted, it’ll be nice to have this trundle past into the suburban platforms.
     
    Dublo 3-rail Bulleid
    A friend of mine asked me a favour. He’d picked up a 2 rail Dublo 34042 Dorchester at a Car Boot sale... in reasonable “nick”... but it had clearly been touched-up in the past. He was going to get it converted to 3-rail to run on his layout, but he already had a Dorchester in good nick... so wondered whether I could change its identify? The request was not seeking a precision re-branding (like Toboldlygo’s conversions)... just a simple re-plating would do. We looked around and found that Modelmaster would do a complete set... and we looked at options. My friend has family in Plymouth, so the choice was made and parts ordered. When delivered, we noticed that some of the paint had chipped away and a “touch up” was requested. Geoff likes to simply “run trains” and there is much fun to be had with this... and close scrutiny of finescale work was not going to be on the agenda... so with this brief, I gave it a go. The old plates came off reasonably well... although their backing was too long for the new name. This and the fact that the old cab side numbers were too small... and the lining too small gave me some worries, but I applied the new numbers and yes, whilst the lining is far too small, it’s not too bad... the alternative was to replace the lining, which would then have needed the tender lining to be replaced; how far to go. Geoff seems happy so far so maybe this will be enough. The old crest was removed and the new waterslides added and sealed a few days later with some Klear. The new name and smokebox number plates when on and look ok. I’ll need to try and clean it all up a bit more... and seal the cab side numbers, but hopefully it’ll do. It was a nice little diversion. But streuth... those wheels and flanges make my finescale-prefering eyes water.

     
    So, that’s about it really... apart from one final mention. Last week, my brother rang me to tell me what he’d seen in the new REM... which I’d yet to see. Apart from KOYLI on the front, there was another Deltic inside... “Is that your Nimbus?” he asked. Streuth... so it is, and it’s advertising the Scalefour society! The fact that this was chosen as a suitable subject to advertise the society left me feeling somewhat pleased. Thanks were suitably forwarded to Paul Willis for choosing it; it made my Christmas!
     
    So, what will 2013 bring? I'll still be exhibiting at the local BHMRC show in May, but I'll not have a layout to show. The depot I was working up last year has not faired well: the ballast has started to lift at the edges and attempts to reset it have not gone too well. I've looked at it as a lesson learnt and I'll try to do something more interesting next time. I'd still like to have a small diorama and have been seeking advice from Marc Smith on mirrors... who knows eh!? Long term - there's the "Passenger Loco" plan... whether I get there first, or whether Brian Hanson beats me to it will probably depend on both of our work/life ballances... at least "work" still pays the bills and that's what is important... apparently. I'll try and sort "fun" as/when time permits.
    Other musings have been vying for synapse time... and the look of those Farish Class 55s has had me wondering about a 2mm venture... if time and money were less of an issue eh? I will try and make some small plans; I'd like to get that 47 finished, it'll be nice to stable it with the 55. I hope it turns out well. We'll see. After that, I've a backlog of other projects and my eldest wants me to detail his Hornby class 90.. so there's plenty to keep me occupied.
     
    So, I hope you all had a nice Christmas, or Yule, or whatever other festival you choose to celebrate. I'll not be doing any modelling now until the house guests have departed in a week or so... but it'll nice to have a house full at midnight for New Year. So I hope that you all have a nice New Year and here's to 2013... hoping it'll bring whatever we want it to bring; I suppose we've just got to find time to put our mind to it... pick up that "round tuit" and get on with it.
    Happy New year everyone.
     
    Thanks for reading....
    Jon
  11. Jon020
    This will be a brief(ish) update as I’ve been trying to spend what little time I’ve had available in actually modelling rather than reading or writing about it... and with a deadline this week time was rather short. However, I’ve drawn a halt now... for the time being and this will have to do. There’s lots and lots to do, but this was never intended to be at a final exhibitable stage, it was actually intended as a work in progress for our local show this Saturday... and that’s what it is. Fortunately, bits of it look ok. I’m reasonably pleased with the ballast although I’d prefer the hard-standing to be a little darker in colour now that the ballast is down. I can work on that at a later date. To carry on, I will add the refuel mechanisms to the hard-standing and I’ll add pipework to the de-fuel area alongside the shed. General detritus needs scattering and I’ll have to add some weeds too. The foreground needs some fencing and some better tarmac surface... the office will probably be moved off this board and replaced with a fuel tank... and then I’ll need to add some lighting poles.... but, as I said, it’ll do for now. It should look ok as a partial board – work in progress.
     
    To be honest, this has taken about 6 weeks... so I don’t think that’s too bad. Nothing like Jon N (Sandhills) standards... but a reasonable start.
     
    It will (the plan) get a board at each end... and one/some behind with main running lines (2 or 4) and some backscene. The (sky) blue board serves for now... although I managed to drop the resin office onto it today and chipped the paintwork in 5 places. That’s been touched up... but it’s no work of art.
     
    There’s a very rudimentary lighting rig that will sit behind to suspend a small tube to provide some overhead lighting; the lighting in the exhibition hall last year was a little orangey... and I’m in the same spot this year.
     
    Ballast is all Carrs. The main depot area is Ash ballast, which is as smooth as it seems to go. All laid as flat as possible and the larger areas tampered with a small piece of packing foam (once I worked out a better way to do it)... and set with Klear... this is ideal for me because it allows me to work a bit at a time. I just wish I could find a stockist somewhere as the old stuff is in short supply. I think the new stuff is ok too... just need to find some somewhere and give it a go.
    Ballast comparisons... ash on left 2mm grey on right

    Some blending with powders. No, I'm right handed - it's holding the camera.

    Blended ballast

    The ballast at the edges and on the rear (slightly raised) line is Carrs 2mm light grey, although I mixed some ash ballast in to provide some variety. There is a colour mis-match, but with some blending in with Carrs weathering powders the difference does tend to diminish... or so I fortunately found.

    The buffers are modified Peco. I removed all the additional bracing pieces, and assembled them at a slightly wider gauge... by drilling the holes in the front plate out a bit... fitting and filing the ends flush. Several prototype photos showed a bracing piece across the back... so I added this detail with 0.6mm wire – superb as it adds some strength too. I removed the bent-rail bottom ends of the vertical and added plasticard bracing pieces... of the approximate shape from photos... and added some archer rivets to the sheet. To be honest, these are a bit weak for what I needed... but they’re what I had, so they had to do. The finished item was fitted once some chairs had their uppers removed to allow the rail pieces of the buffers to sit nicely on the track. The whole thing was treated to Halfords red primer and then painted with Humbrol metalcoat which polished up nicely (where it needed to).... a white head stock (is that the name?) and lamp finished this off. Weathering was with a mix of brown and black (Sleeper grime and weathered black) daubed over and rubbed off.... and a thin mix allowed to seep into the crevices. A final partial buff gave this result... which will do for now until I can acquire something more finescale.

    The inspection pit sans shed

    The office is Bachmann Scenecraft with some light Tamiya pastel weathering (tried out) and the paving is of course Metcalfe.

    The intent was to have somewhere to sit NIMBUS... and I hope it’ll suffice for now.

    I hope it meets the punters wishes on Saturday. If you’re attending, please stop by and say “Hiâ€.
    A couple more shots to illustrate my work in progress... an overview or two and a close up with insufficient depth of field... I must download that software! Oh there's so much more to do and this evening it was diging the allotment!

    Oh, and my powercab will be connected... so if you want to hear a Deltic ... this I can manage (albeit within the limitiations of the scale)
    for now.... Jon
  12. Jon020
    It’s been a while since I posted anything on here; work and other life events have taken their toll on the available time and energies so there’s been little available to enable me to crack on with this project. I admit that when I started this, it was intended as a simple “post Deltic” project; it’s turned out to be anything but. The difference here is that with the Deltic there are plenty of “bits” available commercial, thanks to the likes of Brian H et al, for the 47 the bits are limited... but this allows some “proper modelling”, I say that, although I’m still trying to convince myself of this.
    In June, I was able to pop into Swanwick Jct and grab some close up shots of 47401 and D1516... which was useful. The useful photos are here http://www.flickr.com/photos/nimbus20/sets/72157630150264568/
    I wanted to get back there next Saturday for the “47 gala and Railex”... but as the wife and I are “glamping” (don’t ask!) through to the Friday before, just a few miles away ... and need to get back South to collect the boys from tired grandparents, luck would be being pushed to stay over the extra night... not sure quite what the wife would make of the event either (I’m sure she’d love it... well, maybe, ahem)... anyway, it’s not to be.
    So.... last time I wrote here I was contemplating the bogies. Do I stick with the Bachmann bogies or the nicer Heljan ones? Whilst the Heljan mouldings are very crisp, they have drawbacks.. so I stuck with the Bachmann ones, deciding to improve these.
    This coincided with receipt of a etched kit from Ian Penberth... a sprung bogie kit. I opened this... looked at it all, felt a bit feint, and put it away again. I’ve not given up... I’ll tackle this in my own time. It looks great for fine running, but I want visible correctness and finess, so it’s the “look” I’m striving for, not necessarily the running; that’s the artist rather than the engineer talking. The kit comes with a nice “add on”... an etched kit for the brake hanging gear... and I might just start off with that... ‘cause it looks very nice.
    Anyway, I spent some time on one of the bogies, removing all the wrong pipework (the wrong side)... removed the “57” hanging loop bits, and then removed all the pipework on the right side because it doesn’t go far enough. I then cleaned up the frame to give a cleaner “casting” feel to the shape. New pipework was made using 0.25mm nickel wire, with fine plastic rod hollowed out to represent the connectors and clips. The upper wire was bent to shape and check-positioned a number of times. The lower pipework will follow the same process.
    The springs on the mouldings are poor... too thin. I removed all of these and tried to make some new ones with 0.6mm brass wire, with a thin slither of plastic tube thinned out and fitted over the ends for the “spring cups?” They’re a bit crude but might be ok once cleaned up.... very fiddle though. The end result is worth it (I hope).

    I’ve yet to work out how to construct the end “bits”... i.e. all the brake actuators and levers ... but that’s a problem for another day.
    Before and after...

     
    So, what else.....
     
    Alex’s and Robert’s railway has seen some activity (class 47 bogie diverting activity) and that’s now all ballasted... and they still enjoy playing.

    Robert lacked a decent diesel loco... so I bought him a Heljan 26 – which he loves. It runs really well and we’ve added the indicator discs to one end. Now we’re back from camping, we’ll do the other end. I’ve promised to weather it for him too. I bought 2 actually; I love these little diesels.... and detailing one should be a nice simple project (Please don’t tell me otherwise Brian or Mike). I knoe there’s the window frame issue... and I’ll be using etch discs and a new fan grill... other wise a paint touch in and weathering... with P4 wheels, should do it.
     
    Finally, today I weathered my brother’s 47. It’s a job that’s been waiting for me to get around to for a while. So given that we were stuck at home for this morning... and it was faaaarrrrr tooooo hot to be modelling upstairs, I grabbed the airbrush and some powders... and with the brief of “make it dirty”, this was the result. I kept the sides clean because they seemed to stay clean... or get cleaned, but I gave the underframe and roof a good going over.... the bodysides were coated and wiped-off.




    Hope he likes it!
     
    That's all for now folks... I hope I can produce something more soon... at least the holiday has brought the energy levels back up.
     
    Jon
  13. Jon020
    This won’t be much more than a “this is where I’m at†posting because progress has been zilch since the last entry... the warm weather, building work, decorating, allotment and work hasn’t helped the situation... but still I’m at a bit of a holding point.
     
    Having gone about as far as I’m going to go with the Bachmann 47 body (maybe some roof handrails beckon)... it was time to turn the attention to the underframe. Whilst I need to do some research on the fuel/water tanks, my initial focus was with the bogies. Yes they probably need some ride height reduction, but I was happy that once fitted with Ultrascale wheels these exhibited none of the rocking tendency that some of these suffer from. However, I wrecked some of the brake linkages when fitting the bogie frames back to the bogie body and really needed to work these (class 57 origin) bogies... so wondered whether there was a better option.
    James had been really helpful in pointing out various issues and solutions (cheers James ) and I acquired two pairs of Heljan frames to contemplate as these looked quite promising. These do have much crisper mouldings and are free of many of the errors of the early Bachmann ones... but they’re not perfect. Yes all the details are there, but some of the details have been added at the expense of the moulding shape, which I found a little disappointing to be honest. When I fitted these to the Bachmann bogies I also noticed that the distance between the axles was not quite the same... whether the Bachmann’s wrong or the Heljan’s wrong is probably irrelevant as I intended to keep the Bachmann workings... so more contemplation – picture shows my thoughts. Oh, and the bogie side frames are two pairs – so that’s a speedo pickup on each bogie .... really?
    Anyway, here's the Bachmann bogie (minus some brake gear)

    And here's the other Bachmann bogie with the Heljan sideframe

    Yes, I've been picky, I know!
     
    There’s the offer of a fully sprung Bachmann bogie... and I will be seeking the demonstration of this at Railex tomorrow. Yes, despite the truly gorgeous weather, swmbo has decided that she wants to spend the day cleaning and tidying tomorrow... so we’re not going out on the bikes with the kids so ... I’m allowed to go to the show ... woo hoo.... could be an enjoyable day! And I’m really looking forward to seeing some good layouts and exhibitors... and catching up with a few others. Early to the M25 I feel! Anyway, whilst I will look at these offerings, I’m of no expectation at being skilled enough to attempt them... but looking wont hurt... will it?
     
    In the mean time, I contacted Bachmann (eventually – they don’t make it easy do they) and ordered some new bogie side frames – of the newer models so they should be a bit more accurate at least, although I suspect I’ll still need to change those awful springs!
     
    Anyway... I’m still awaiting postie... and looking forward to learning tomorrow. That’s all for now. Time to get the kids up to the allotment to burn off some of energy – theirs not mine; I’ve none left!
     
    Jon
  14. Jon020
    This will be just a short entry to record that my small P4 depot diorama got its outing on saturday to our local show... and quite a nice little show it was too. Well done to Chris R for organising what felt to be quite a busy day. Nothing on the scale of derby... but a nice show.
    My pitch all set up before the show... and before the creation of my impromptu paper light shade

    I was pitched next to Matthew as before... which was useful to enable each other's displays/layouts to be left in capable hands for a brief foray out of the gym hall where we were located to the rare sunshine we got that day. It was nice to chat with a number of attendees and exhibitors including James M and the guys from Loftus Road.
    I had the old Deltics on the old 3 road OO plank and the newer deltic, two TTAs and the spare body 47 on the P4 diorama. The worked-body 47 was also on show alongside an out-of-the box deltic for comparison.
    Much interest was shown in the detailing and weathering and I think that Brian H might be getting some new customers.
    It was especially nice to chat with Pete M over for the weekend from BCN, especially as it's his fault that I ended up exhibiting here in the first place ... despite that, he had to come back several times before befing able to sit for a chat... s'funny how some people just want to sit and chat and tell you their life story.
    Fortunately, or unfortunately I was placed opposite Broke Brick mountain... a monster of a layout, fun to watch... but quite noisy. The sounds from my locos were completely drowned out. It's the sort of layout that could benefit from having a whole hall to itself...
    I'm right over the other side... see it... no, you don't do you.

     
    I didn't get much chance to look around at the other exhibits so it'd be nice to see some more photos posted on the exhib thread at some point. Botleigh gave me some ideas about finishing the defuel point though... thought it very nice.

     
    Anyway. I returned and unpacked and then started to suffer from a horrendous sore throat and dry cough which still persists (nothing to do with the show, but the talking all day couldn't have helped)... so I lacked the energy to get started with too much... that and having the builders in this week, dividing the living room into a dining and sitting room (now mummy and daddy get some piece when boys are playing on the computer/TV whatever).... it's been busy. However, I've been discussing things "47" with "James"... thanks James... and started to strip the old Bach 47 down.
    I've ordered some Heljan bogie frames and been pointed towards replacement springs.... and to a fully sprung bogie, but I think that that will be a step too far for me this time... I'm gonna look at it though and maybe swoon. Anyway... parts stripped and some put away already. Switch on lower side of body was cut off and I'll permamnently connect these on the PCB... why would I want to turn the tail lights off on a depot layout anyway - and now I've space for a bigger bass reflex speaker (any suggestions anyone?)

    Anyway... there's the next project (and justification for this being a workbench blog)... 'suppose I better get on with it.

    Jon
  15. Jon020
    I recently posted an entry on the class 47 P4 conversion and detailing project that I’ve started; this will cover some other tasks tackled in the last month or so.
     
    First of all there was a problem with my Nimbus. I only discovered this when my DCC Concepts rolling road arrived, just before Christmas. Despite attempts at lubricating the gears and bearings that were accessible, I finally came to the conclusion that the problem was with the motor... quite what the problem was, I’m still not sure, but I decided that the best option was probably a swap out.
    The video (apologies for quality) illustrates the problem – the motor really growled/rattled when running in the correct orientation, but quieter when it’s turned on its side... not that that’s much use in a loco.
    http://www.flickr.co...s20/6801723023/

    Fortunately I had some spare motors, ok, they were installed in other locos... but a volunteer was found and it sacrificed its motor. The breakdown of Nimbus was a little fraught, but I managed the complete disassembly by taking it slowly... and keeping all bits in a small box. Once the motors were swapped, and checked both could be reassembled... picture shows donor loco and Nimbus’s chassis on the rolling road running in.

    Final loco rebuild resulted in two broken brake chains – reconstructed, and a lost bogie/body shackle which was constructed afresh. I’d had trouble fitting one of these before – it just wouldn’t stay put, so this time I put a dab of glue’n’glaze into the body recess before pushing the shackle home... they can still rotate freely, but they stay in place.
    So, Nimbus is finished.
    In 11 days time Nimbus will be (would be) 50! “His†(all racehorses were sires... except Meld, which was sired by Alycidon – useless deltic fact of the day) entry into traffic was 12/2/52, almost a year after Royal Scots Grey.... yes, and St Paddy was of course actually the first into traffic – that wretched headlight!!!!
     
    So, what else... Well, as reported, I picked up my first P4TC/Exactoscale turnout kit at scaleforum and I set about construction in the new year; I found that I was missing the check rail components from the kit, but a call through to Len put this right and construction continued.
    Whilst quite a daunting prospect looking at all the pieces in the kit for the first time... slightly reassured by the statement in the instructions which acknowledges that it might all look quite daunting, but taken methodologically, it should be seen as a logical sequence (or words to that effect). Slightly reassured, I set about this and found that indeed it was quite a pleasant modelling exercise.
    The following pictures show a few stages of assembly, the sprue of some of the myriad of checkrails and a track gauge in use. Assembly completed, I ran my TTA (P4 wheels fitted) through a few times, re-checked the back-to-backs and ran again... all seemed fine.


    With some (no, alot) of guidance from Mark Tatlow I set about making the Turnout Operating Unit (TOU).
    I used some copperclad fibreglass (C&L) with two short lengths of rail (Hornby did nicely – flat bottomed) soldered with about 14mm between the internal faces. The centre is isolated and a 0.5mm hole drilled for the operating mechanism link later on. At about 16mm separation two holes were drilled into the base into which two 0.6 wire lengths were inserted and their tails bent over and soldered to the underside (later filed nearly flush) The upper lengths were kept close to the rail pieces and bent over the top... cut to length and filed flat. These were then also soldered, and the outer edges filed a little to narrow their gauge. The switch rail will sit on the Hornby rail section, with the wire piece outside sat alongside the switch rail web. A thinned match stick is inserted behind the switch rail and its all soldered up (following the current soldering thread on here – and with mark’s advice using Carrs Green flux and 190 deg solder).

    This was the first soldering (track power aside) that I’d done for a long long time... and that was mostly electronics. It went well IMHO.
    Similar process for the other side, with a second match inserted to support the position of the TOU. All affixed, worked fine (with wagon as before) and, and, nothing plastic melted! Result!!!!!

    Ok, so a few pictures of the result. The TOU sits lower than the timbers, but this will be recessed into the baseboard to allow access for the operating lever. A piece of card above the TOU will hide its appearance.
    Still need to work out what form of cosmetic stretcher bars to employ... but I’ll work on that one once I’ve done some research.



    Finally a lengthwise shot showing that it's not to professional's standards, but as my first attempt, I'm quite happy.

    Here’s Nimbus sat atop the turnout... looking ok IMHO.

    Finally, in response to something Pete said a few days ago... yes I really am ballasting my boys train set (not really a layout)... so far, I’ve only done the tunnel entrances, so I could put these in properly and finish the scenic structure – Wickes foam board with overlay of plaster soaked kitchen towel... all a bit white at the moment... but we’ll work on that! Ballast is Carrs light grey – a very dark colour for “light greyâ€, but goes down far easier than the woodland scenics stuff I used before, although its appearance is perhaps not quite so finescale... but more than suitable for the Hornby track layout... I might mix some other colours in later to lighten it – but some paint will help too.

    So, that will do for a now. A slightly varied entry... but now I feel I’m up to date.
  16. Jon020
    Well, if you’re reading this, RMWeb is back. Thank goodness. Well done to Andy for persevering on behalf of us all.
    As a result, I suspect that this entry won’t stay on the front page for long; I imagine there will be a few of us doing catch up blog entries... and why not.
     
    Since my last posting I’ve made some progress with my depot diorama/plank, some progress has been positive, but not all.

    I think in my last entry I’d mentioned using scalescenes card inspection kit which my second attempt had been quite successful, I’d used code 100 flat bottom rail to glue to the card, and soldered droppers to this to power this separately. Upon offering this up to C&L bullhead, I found that the gauge was a little out; attempts at removing the rail to reposition it were not successful and finally the pit was consigned to the recycling pile. Some soul searching, and suggestions, led me to acquiring a peco inspection pit, but before this arrived, I decided to give the scalescenes kit one further try. This time I strengthened the side walls by leaving some card material above the “lightsâ€... so a slight instruction deviation, more careful tedious cutting, but worth it. I then didn’t fit the rails to the pit top, instead, the pit was dropped into the baseboard hole and the C&L track sat on top with the timbers removed, leaving them in place either side, over the rest of the metre length. Height wise this was close enough, or so I though. Tests have shown that my ever-so-tight Deltic makes it over the slight undulation (well, most of the time anyway).

    So this was the first step in getting back on programme. I used the hardstand prints from the inspection pit as the concrete apron around the pit, where the shed would sit, and along towards where the fuel point would be... and across the front track too.
    Whilst I didn’t leave enough room for the LED strip that can be added, a strip torch placed under the board can produce a nice effect. Maybe I’ll add some lighting to the shed... at some point; there’s no rush.

    The front track would stop short of the left hand end, with a buffer stop (I’ve since sourced a peco one and constructed with at the P4 gauge – holes elongated to gauge – but not much else yet... I might replace this eventually, but it’ll do for a start).

    I laid some daler card down to form the hardstanding areas, which gave a double thickness that looks about right for scale. The front area was single thickness, which should be less of a step to the ballasted track in the foreground or rather that’s the plan.
    Anyway, I finished adding all of the card, weathered a little with powders and tamiya pastes and then varnished to seal it all in. DO NOT USE ENAMEL VARNISH... I know this now. The result was more than a little disappointing.

    After some thinking, I decided to print out some more sheets (ink ran out and had to source a replacement cartridge) ... then carefully cut out and stuck these down over the “wrecked†finish of the existing card using pritt stick, which allowed some precision positioning (which it needed).
    After some guidance from the good old pages of the card forum on here, a suggestion was offered on how to waterproof these card items without use of varnish, and I was pointed to Lidl’s clothing waterproofer. There was none in stock at out local, but a rootle around at home found something similar – for shoes and coats... and a liberal series of coats to the card seemed to do the trick... checked with a few drops of water afterwards.
     
    With the card now all settled, the rails had droppers soldered to them, holes drilled into the board for the circuit later. Then the tracks were glued down, the rear one being glued to a length of card that raised the rail level ... enough to give a shoulder for the ballast at the rear.
    Once dried, I set about adding chairs to the rail over the pit. For this, I used Exactoscale chairs (S1s I think) that I cut the outer sections and used these to suggest chairs up against the rail. These were affixed with superglue and the gauge set as accurately as possible along the pit length.


    Terminal blocks were then added to terminate the droppers, and all wired together and connect to the powercab socket ... which would be fitted to the rectangular opening.

    A tedious but worthwhile job is that of removing the sleeper spacers... cut out with a sharp blade – a long thin one preferably – a Swann Morton No. 11 suited me in this instance... although the bits go everywhere; relaxing music at one side is useful to while the hours away in this task; at least it makes ballasting easier afterwards.

    With it being my eldest son’s birthday this weekend, not too much modelling time was available, but that which was, was not then spent browsing RMWeb, which was er, taking a break. So, after all the “other†activities were complete, I used the airbrush to give the tracks a good coat of sleeper grime brown... and a careful application of dark rust to the chairs, including those on the pit, with rail tops cleaned off carefully with a white spirit soaked cloth afterwards.
    The defueling point base and refuelling point base had a couple of coats of acrylic ... concrete colour, actually Citadel’s Dhenab Stone, as recommended by Will Vale of this parish... which was a good match to the printed card. The grills were picked out in a wash of black, with light grey dry brushed over one it was all dry... much work will be needed on these, but I thought that adding the bases would provide a point to ballast up to. The left hand end foreground area, by the buffer stop, needs a small office building... not sure what design, but I’ve ordered the Bachmann Scenecraft office, which should sit in nicely in terms of scale, but might need some backdating to fit with the loco selections.

    I will need to find some more pictures of fuel depots, and the defuel bits I have a re devoid of instructions, so I’ll be trying to work out what to do with both of these Knightwing bits.

     
    As for ballast, I was going to use the woodland scenics fine grey ballast that I’ve used before, but I’ve given some though to Carrs Ash ballast, which might look better for a depot... but maybe keeping the scenics stuff for the track at the rear.
    A recent blog entry covered techniques for ballasting ... and mentioned the use of Kleer. I know that others on here use this method, but given its scarcity and multitude of uses, I’d always soaked the ballast and used watered down PVA, or scenics cement. As I’d acquired a couple of bottles of “old†Kleer a year or so ago, I thought I’d give it a try on my boys layout (around the loco shed). Wow! I dropped on some ballast, evened it out and carefully applied some kleer to the board to allow it to wick using capillary action – it just worked! Now it seems I can add ballast to the board without worrying about soaking the card beforehand. So, hopefully, it’ll start to come together.
    I hope that I’ll have something to exhibit in a few weeks time; nothing will be finished, but a work in progress will be something I suppose.
     
    On other projects, the Bachmann 47 was rewheeled this weekend. Removing the bogie frames was a bit of a pig; clearly Bachmann didn’t design these to be easily removed. I managed to drop the ultrascales in, but the bogie frames wouldn’t go back on – the new wheels fouled the frames, particularly the inner items.., so these were removed. The loco was tested on the board and worked fine, even if it was sunning on some very odd looking wheel frames... that project will be made “decent†before the BHMRC show, but probably not much else. The split headcode 37 is already sat on the 2nd set of deltic ultrascales... but not chipped. It did get used as a useful track gauge checker with use of a PP3 battery to run back and forth when it was all under test though.
     
    Finally, the loco stable has been expanded with a Hornby 31 entering the. With my recent preference for a money-saving haircut, which can now go two months between cuts, it was only apt that this was 31-111.., their “Skinhead†offering. It was picked up from a well know auction site for a price that I was very happy with; it’ll need some tidying and looks as though it’s not been run much, if at all... but it ran ok on the boys layout.. so it’ll go into the box, onto the surgery waiting list for chipping, detailing and rewheeling. I think I’ve probably enough to be getting on with now.
     
    So, that's it for now... some progress yes.. not as much as I would've liked, but I'm happy to have achieved at least this.
     
    Thanks for reading
    Jon
  17. Jon020
    Well, here we have a slightly different project to compete with the loco detailing projects and writing projects and drawing projects, (and and and) that are all seeming vying for my spare time at the moment... a small diorama layout to plant the P4 locos completed and under construction.
    The theme is rather tedious I’m afraid... just another small servicing/storage yard, making use of the Bachmann single-road shed, a scalescenes inspection pit and some knightwing bits (that are still in their bags)... other details will get added as inspiration and time permits, but for now I just need to get the basis planted so that there’s something to sit NIMBUS on when exhibited at our local show in May... er, just 6 weeks away. Time to extract digit!
    As I had an extra day’s leave that I had to use or lose today, I spent it in the last of the sunshine knocking up a small baseboard 100cmx30cm, using 9mm ply and 1¾â€x½â€ softwood frame. This has been treated to a couple of coats of grey primer to seal it all... and it’ll get some finishing when I’m nearer finishing. Holes are cut at one end to accept the Power cab wall panel and power lead... and that’s it.
    Now... the quandary. The photo shows a plan... I’m not going to have room here for turnouts; the only one constructed so far is a C10... and that’s too long for this... far better suited for the main line. So the “display†bit will be these four lines... allowing (in theory) transition via cassette at the near end. The far end needs something, but I’m not sure what yet... maybe a mirror might be worth trying?

    The track is C&L P4 Bullhead nickel silver... so I can use the blackening agent if desired... but it’ll all be painted anyway.
     
    Inspection pit uses 1 and a bit sections of the scalescenes free download file... which I had a go at, to see whether these were something I’d like to try again. I think it’s ok... so I’m going to try some more. I used ordinary 80gsm printer paper stuck to daler board which is about 1.5mm thick... so a compromise on the suggested 1mm and 2mm board... thicker bits were bolstered with a couple of layers of thinner card to get the right thickness... which was important for the step height.

    Rails are ordinary peco code 100 (from the drawer) rather than C&L ... as flat bottom was going to be the easier option here – but it’s all mostly hidden and it’ll be inside the shed, so it should be ok. The C&L will be on thin cork so the rail height should match.
     
    But the main question is whether the plan for 4 roads looks ok. It’s a little tight I admit, but the mid term plan is to do another of these boards and place it behind this one (parallel) and put a 4 road main line in... with some back-scene... which will allow some depth... in theory.
    At the present, the two front roads a storage lines... but I’d intend for a concrete apron (construction method to be determined) under and in front of the shed... and on the adjacent road. The front road would be sleepers.... as shown... and the short rear road terminated with buffers short of the shed.

    But.., would it be better with fewer roads. My thoughts are that this might work... I started with three but it lacked interest... 4 might be a bit tight, but it will allow some depth and foreground/background comparison in tight shots... and look better with the second board in place (if plans continue).
    The plan is to allow the deltic to sit inside or just outside, or alongside the shed. One or two TTAs will compete the scene. The P4’d 37 hasn’t been started... the 47 is a work in progress... but eventually they’ll take their place.
    I’m not vying to compete with Sandhills Jon here... no chance, but his work is inspirational. So, let’s see what I can do.
     
    Any thoughts?
     
    Thanks....
     
    Jon
  18. Jon020
    Some progress has been made on the “Brush 4â€, to the extent that I think the “body†is now done.
    The main area of focus has been around the front ends, in a bid to try and make the model look a bit more like the prototype. As I’m sure I mentioned before I’d acquired some Extreme Etchings Class 47 windscreen surround etches... and very nice these are too. So I wanted to use these and soon realised that these would be quite a bit bigger than the Bachmann openings so an improved look could result.
    I also wanted to replace the handrail, having already removed the “thick†plastic handrail beforehand. Originally, I simply used some 0.6mm brass wire in three sections. Two short sections were fitted to the inner holes and a large piece shaped to the handrail contour (by placing it flush to the nose and easing it to fit) and then slightly bending to form the correct (or approximate) elevation contour.

    The two inner pieces were then glued in and filed to size (under 1mm) and the main handrail glued in, with the rail touching the short sections... securely glued in place (zap-a-gap pink).
    Once fitted these looked much finer.
    Then.... aargh! Realisation dawns!

    On comparing the model with prototype photos, it became apparent that the distance between the handrail and “nose lip†[dimension A] should be greater than the distance between the handrail and the headcode box [dimension B]. And on the model it wasn’t. I’d used the original holes... so is the Bachmann model wrong... well...
    I removed the handrail pieces (the small bits refused to budge so were filed flush) and started again. This time, I drilled new holes about 0.4mm lower than the originals.

    You can see the originals still in place which serves to illustrate the miniscule change. BUT, now the dimensions are better A is now > B... which is what I wanted... suddenly I think it looks a bit more “47†like. Which is good; it would have been a shame to put the effort in and see no improvement.
    Now, I needed a replacement for the headboard bracket. I was trimming the original prior to refitting when it slipped from the tweezers: twing... dink dink dink. 45 minutes of searching later..... not found - was seen headed in direction of bookcase. I'll find it again... one day maybe. I posted a “help†thread on here and this revealed some useful leads, etch parts and ViTrains parts suggested.

    Thanks to John Upton for sending me some spare ViTrains brackets; these arrived a few days later and looked very nicely shaped... but a bit big. So... hmmm.
    Fortunately, I went to the Watford Finescale model show that weekend and had quite a nice chat (as ever) with Mike and Brian on the EE stand... and I discussed my project. Oh, and Nimbus came with me. Poor quality photos I’m afraid, but seen here on Brian’s stand next to his original “55†body conversion... where it drew some admiring glances (smug mode engaged)

    and then she stretched here legs (wheels) on Mark T’s Portchullin where she ran... not very well... but she did move and what’s a little derailing amongst friends... it’s P4 for goodness sake! Oh and the volume was too low – seemingly a factor with either Mark’s Gaugemaster or my Powercab... because he was nice and loud when I got him back home.

    Anyway... thanks Brian (and Mike for putting up with it) and Mark. But, I digress...
    For the 47, Brian (or was it Mike?) suggested the EE lamp iron etch, just fold them up. Blimey I thought, that sounds fiddly... but you know what, er... it was! But worth the effort. Scale metal brackets... and glued on with rocket max they seem quite secure (fingers crossed).
    The other item discussed was... er I’m not sure which loco I’m doing at the moment, but an Finsbury Park Generator.... “what, an early oneâ€.. beamed Mike, “maybe†says I.... “are you changing all the cant rail grills then?†My face fell. “What!?†“The grillsâ€, “They’re different on the early onesâ€. Oh ‘eck. I need to look this up – something else I’d not noticed. “Windscreen wipersâ€, I said, “do you do thoseâ€... “yesâ€, “straight or pantograph ones?†Oh eck... I bought both feeling a little embarrassed... all in good fun. We spoke about the 37 I plan to do next and a 08. DON’T ON ANY ACCOUNT START TO TALK TO THEM ABOUT THESE... YOU’LL REALISE THAT YOU HAVE QUITE A JOB AHEAD OF YOU... oh for a simple conversion. Sob.
    As for the 47s cant rails... yes. See for 47404, which is different, and for 47414 which is reassuringly the same... I might have found one to model!

    Anyway.., back to the real task in hand... Prior to the show, I’d rung Brian and had a chat about the laserglaze screens. I wanted to use these as they do look good... they’ve appeared in George Dent’s blog recently and probably Model Rail... so I was going to use them too. Now, if you’re just replacing the glazing and cleaning up the original frames, use them as advertised; if you’re going to fit the true-scale etch frames, think again.
    Because the Bachmann screens are a little small, if you fit the etch frames, you’ll find that the screens sit inside the frames with a small gap between them and the frames. In some cases this might not show, but it didn’t feel right. “Brianâ€, I said “are the laserglaze items for the Heljan 47 any bigger?â€... knowing that this is the “tubby duffâ€... “Oh yes†says Brian... “in fact they fit the frames very wellâ€. RESULT. So, I’d acquired some of these and set about making the backmann openings bigger to accept the new glazing.

    The photos show the comparison between the two, with the Heljan glazing and Bachmann glazing in the frames, and a direct comparison of the two sets of glazing – look how much bigger the Heljan ones are!

    Oh, and some advice: these glazing items are not rectangular... they’re curved, but only very subtly... be very very careful to make sure you have them the right way around and up... it’s very easy to get them mixed up when trying to decide how to open-up the hole for them.
    Anyway, to get them in the right place, I temporarily fitted the etched frames and then scraped the plastic away from inside the edges... as shown.

    This left me with a “frame sized hole†to work to... the frames could them be removed and sanding gently, the hole was eased out “square†on each side equally to the point where the glazing would give an “interference†fit. The shots show the TI and frame carefully balanced in place to show the effect.



    The glazing was removed and put away carefully and all frames then well and truly glued in place. I think they look ok... and the look of the 47 is improving.

    These also show how much material was removed from the section in front of the windscreens... this really needs the lip lowering to provide room for the frames and give a neater, crisper profile. I don’t think that the quantity of yellow paint helps. Next time it’ll be stripper before starting. Too late now, this time though.
    As mentioned before, an alternative headcode (lamp) bracket was sourced and bent and fitted. I think it looks very neat.



    A slight weekend departure saw me helping to operate Brighton Road at the Modelworld show on Friday – thanks Matthew for capturing me running the Teak set on a south coast to Victoria slow. Learning the fiddle yard operation was challenging but very rewarding; thanks to Barry Luck for letting me help.
    http://www.rmweb.co....ton-modelworld/
    I managed to pick up a Bachmann 105 DMU (Blue/yellow) DCC fitted for £75 too, which I was quite pleased about. Then... I spent a little time on Sunday with the airbrush weathering track and applying some lighter shades to the scenic portions of my boys “roundyâ€. It’s getting there!

    Back to the 47... and time to work on some finishing details. The Extreme Etchings roof fan grills were carefully removed from their fret (not careful enough) and rolled and fitted. You might see the slight damage to one grill but I’m hoping that some suitable weathering will eventually hide this.

    Actually, I think that George Dent had a similar mishap... so I’m not too bothered about this ####s up. They are very delicate.
    Finally, there were two more details to add. The first needed a little further research, which revealed this photo and I was able to construct something suitable using microstrip and <1mm length of .25mm wire. Not very precise, but I think it’ll do. The photo from Tomstaf was also very useful.
    The photo shows that I used a tiny slither of bluetack attached to the (now blunt) tip of the SM blade to pick up the wire piece to position it.

    The next photo shows one fitted and one microstrip piece awaiting its “bit of wireâ€. These are the ex-washer jets.

    Finally... promise... I noticed that the Finsbury Park Generators (411-418 that I was focussing on included ... as these have the same cant rail grills as the model)... look again at the earlier photo of 47414 (linked) and you’ll see two rivets under the headcode box. Further research identified that this was for the 34G shed plate... and all FP ones seemed to have it (that I looked at)... others didn’t.
    So, I reached for the Archer waterslides and approximately positioned two “rivets†as desired.

    Oh, and as mentioned before 47414 now looks a likely candidate ... was crew built (eyebrows and tail lights are right)... and fuel tanks don’t look too bad (but that’s a future problem to resolve) so I think it’ll be ok.

    The end results looks quite different from the start point... and possibly worth the effort... so I wrote it all up.



    Photos uploaded to flickr as before... and a light dusting of primer to be applied as time permits. But this will do for now.
    Chassis next... I hope that it’s not too difficult, but I’m not holding my breath.
     
    That's all for now.., thanks for reading. Hope that some of it was interesting if not useful
     
    Jon.
  19. Jon020
    A while ago I described my first attempts at producing a display board/plinth to photograph locos on, an item similar to that described by James H as a photo plank in Paxton Yard blog. Well, it’s now at a semi-complete stage… in that I’m happy to use it to display and photograph locos on…. but I may still add some additional bits to it as time progresses, and I want to try out some new scenic techniques, most of which are still a mystery to me (or rather their mastery is a mystery).
     
    I wanted to keep this board simple, so opted for three tracks with basically ballast only between each road. However, to add some variety, I opted to introduce the look of a buried cable trough between two of the tracks, leaving one cover off to show the cables within. This was essentially 4mm x 1mm plasticard strip cut to 13mm lengths (or was it 14mm?) placed one next to the other along the board. At about mid point, I cut a trough out of the board, about 4mm across and deep, and 20mm long, into this I placed a fabricated box section, painted and fitted with two pieces of blackened 0.4mm wire. This was positioned such that each retained “cover†abutted each end such that a “single piece†was left exposed.

    The plasticard was then painted in various shades using Humbrol Matt 147 and weathered black to tone down… with some stippling to get a type of concrete effect. Between the other tracks, I left plain ballast with a slight rise…, which I might add, some weeds to.., eventually, but that can wait for another day.
     
    Once the ballast was dry – added to in several stages I might add…. I’m slowly getting the hang of this (I possibly didn’t give myself an easy start, choosing finescale track with thin sleepers – but the effort was worth it). I then weathered the ballast – the tracks had been painted previously – dark rust on the rails and sleeper grime/track dirt mix on the sleepers. Weathering included several passes of Sleeper grime (I’ve run out now) and then some weathered black mixed in to represent oil/fuel spillages. At this point, I found some bits of ballast lifting out “bother†(not the word I used at the time… but you get the drift, I’m sure)… so I refilled the holes with ballast and “glued†them down with thinned paint dribbled onto the surrounding ballast. I was nervous about doing this, but it seems to have worked. Finally, I over-sprayed the whole area with matt varnish… hopefully to seal it in. So far, so good.., although time will tell if it’s robust enough.
     

    So, finally, I was able to pose my 55s on something that looked like reasonable track, and it serves as a tidy display shelf in my workroom, on which 55s 020, 008 and 015 have found a home. I’m happy with the result… for now. But, there’s still plenty of room for a rear wall, a fence or paving… or mud/grass. That is something for another day.
    Finally, here's a few photos with my 55s





    The ballasting is by far from perfect, but it'll do for now, and it served as a useful practice for when I (finally) get around to putting a proper layout together. Now I just need to practice soil/mud and grass (first practice wasn't too successful!) and I'll work on that. Any comments always welcomed... oh, and now I really must get back to finishing Nimbus - dropping the bogie height and adding the brake levers and chains. Thanks ... Jon
  20. Jon020
    Workbench update January 2012. I’m going to create a few work bench updates here to reflect what I have managed to achieve since “finishing†Nimbus at the tail end of 2011.
     
    As some might have read, I’ve had a bit of an issue acquiring the necessary to “P4†a Bachmann 08... so I’ll not touch on that here. I also had to strip Nimbus down to basics and replace the motor due to a unsettling growl which disappeared if he loco was turned on its side (bearings?) Lubrication didn’t help, so a spare was sourced and all was put back together again... although with that level of detail to cope with it wasn’t without incident, but all broken chains and bits were repaired and she’s whole again. I’ll do another entry on that.
    Here, I will focus instead on the next loco project which is a detailing exercise of a Bachmann Class 47.
    I started this, really as I wanted something quick and easy after spending well over a year on the 55; so, just a re-wheel and address the known issues with the bach 47... “simples†(gawd I hate that term... now kicking myself for using it... but you get the gist)
    But.., the project has turned out to be anything but simple.

    I had a Bachmann BR Blue 47035 [32-802], the one with the “wrong†domino headcode – i.e. it’s a black solid panel with marker lights and not a “Domino’d headcode panel. OK, so “wrong†is a bit strong.... “not of much help†would be closer for this project... and why..? because I wanted an East Coast 47/4 to sit with my Deltic... so in approx 1974 condition. Yes, I know, I’m just awkward.
    Right... so, I thought... I know, Bachmann did a 4-digit headcode version didn’t they..? I’ll keep an eye on e-bay and if a “body only†comes up, I’ll try and bag it. It did; I did! Great! Not great! Hang on.... what’s that on the roof – three grill panels per side? Where’s the Serck thermostatically controlled panels. Damn. Now what? Think think think (in best winnie the pooh fashion).
    To be honest, hindsight now tells me that I should have kept an eye out for one of the Bachmann green ones - some of the early ones had the serck shutters and as I'm probably going to end up respraying in total... it would have been no real hardship. C'est la vie... oh for 20-20 hindsight. As you read on though, you'll see that this still might have been the better (if not certainly the much easier) option. Hey ho!
     
    A phone call to Brian Hanson – best options? Cut off the roof section of each and fit the rad shutters to the 4-digit headcode version..? OR, drill out the headcode and replace that on the “Domino†one. Brian thought the latter the better option... and until some etch rad shutters are available, I agreed.
     
    So, here we have some photos – of each unit – the bodies now swapped over so I can work on one.. and still “play†with the other on my friend’s fairly big OO layout until I start on the chassis – esp as there’s a Howes sound unit in there. Quite fun last night, three of us, some beers and the 47 and his 37 thrashing around the loft layout ... 37 with cement wagons, my 47 with a 7 coach rake of Mk2s. A fun evening!

    As can be seen from the photos, the roof sections are quite different, so opting for the front end work was certainly the best option... if only it’d been without so many engineering issues!

    Oh, and to complete the picture, I have the Shawplan/Extreme etchings roof fan/grill mesh as well as the windscreen surrounds and laserglaze set... enough to be starting with.
     
    Diversion - my father's L1 that he wanted to be late crest (was early crest) - old one removed and my first attempt at pressfix... satin varnished and handed back. No weathering ... Dad likes them like this... and so be it. A nice model though. Thanks to Tom (was it) for the clue re pressfix. Work done just before Christmas... so warranted a diversionary mention I thought!

     
    The 47.... to start, all glazing and cabs were removed, and the headcode panels drilled and filed out. I didn’t open these out to quite the same size as the full opening, detail photos show that there’s a slight lip around the inside... so I left a fraction of a mm to represent this.
    I also removed the upper handrail (which didn’t look too fine) and then set about cleaning up the edges and profile... just a clean up – no reshaping.... yet! Oh, but the (class 57) riveted windscreen surrounds were removed.

    The removal of the windscreen wipers highlighted the feeble upper rain strip (is that the right term) over the front of the cab. So, I rubbed this all back a bit and attached a strip of microstrip (glued end on with Zap-a-gap CA Pink (thin) and filed sanded the corners smooth to match the correct corner profile.

    Looking at prototype photos, underneath this is what one might refer to as “eyebrowsâ€. Now, these seem to differ depending on whether the loco was Crewe built of Loughborough built (for our American readers that’s pronounced luffburra... not louga barouga as we once heard one of our suppliers refer to it) (chortle)... I think the split eyebrows are crew... joined in the middle Loughborough... there’s an American warewolf in London (I think) line in there about never trusting a man whose eyebrows meet in the middle – but I digress. The 47/4s I was looking at seemed (therefore ) to be Crewe built... so I used two pieces of microstrip again... to represent these items. Adding this changes the shape somewhat... and I think, for the better.



    Right, now, I’ve almost run out of pictures.... but.... what else (one photo at end - sanded off details will be put back correctly at the end):
    These strips reduce the available area for a windscreen surround... and as the etches are (scale to the 47)... a little paring back of the eyebrow strip was necessary... and then a little work on the nose prow, to deepen the recess between screen mounting surface and almost horizontal forward surface of the node “bitâ€... but eventually, there was enough material removed to allow the etch items to fit in the gap.
     
    The laserglaze windscreens needed a little opening up of the openings to allow a “fitâ€... mainly in the corners and mostly at the outer bottom corner... to match the shape better. But these now sit in nicely. Unfortunately, because these were made to fit eh Bachmann model, and the etch surrounds are “scaleâ€... there’s a bit of a mismatch and the glazing is smaller than the internal dimensions of the frame. So, the frame won’t do anything to hold the glazing in place. I need to talk to Brian about this... and I’m wondering whether use of the Heljan laserglaze items might be better... as they’re a bit bigger (aren’t they?) so adapting the model to take these might allow a better fit in this instance... but discussions re still to be had (sorry if you read this/hear about this before we talk... I hate to phone and disturb your evenings)
     
    Headcode panel. Oh dear! Right... the spare 47 body came with what looked like spare headcode glazing taped to the inside of the body. OK, so they were too long – but that doesn’t matter – one was cut/sanded to shape/size and tested. All seemed to be working, but when polishing this, I must have bent it a little and it delaminated. Well, it was a nice idea!
    OK, thinner piece of acetate (I’ve some to hand). Cut to size – yes, but still very thin. This was not very strong, so I wondered about whether to replicate the headcode roller blind (plasticard having no etching means about me) which could sit behind the glazing, look reasonable and reinforce the thin glazing. Attemps shown in photo – thinner one is closest... but not right. I’d still have to work out how to apply the headcode behind this (more glazing?) and assembly might be a pig. Current idea is to ditch this plan, and cut out a window the size of the headcode blind that will sit behind the glazing allowing only a rectangle opening... just like the prototype photos... all still an idea, but will be pursued.
    But conclusion – this is not as easy as I’d thought... and I’m beginning to question my sanity... but hopefully an engineering solution will be found.
    (I knew I should have stuck to domino headcodes on that deltic (!!!!!!!!) Hindsight eh!) – actually, I prefer the 4-digit code, so if I can find a solution, a 47 with a suitable “deltic deputising†headcode will be chosen


     
    I’ll wrap this up now... as that’s it for now on the 47.
     
    Oh, I’ve managed to make my first P4 turnout kit too... still need to work out how to actually “do†the TOU... but I’ll be dropping Mark T a note very shortly... I’ve had the explanation – just need the right flux/solder and skill to put it into practice. Wish me luck!
     
    That’s that for now. Jon’s doing some modelling again. I hope some of this is of interest/use. Warmest wishes to all and Happy New Year (if it’s not too late to wish it to you all - 2012 or Dragon)
     
    Thanks for reading... as ever... Jon
  21. Jon020
    P4 Deltic Conversion, Part 20… final stages and completion

    Well, I didn’t really think that I’d get here, but thanks to the support I’ve received from a number of RMWebbers (listed) among others, I’ve finally finished my Nimbus. OK, so he’s going to have to come apart again once I get my rolling road so that the gears can get a good seeing to with plenty of lubrication... I think the gears are all a bit gungy and dried out... so running is a little rough inside, but the pickups are ok... and it all works!
    I’d like to just formally sincerely thank the following, in no particular order:
    Jamie, Jessie1692-James, James Hilton, 43179 Jon S, BCNPete M, Will, Peter, Sean, Simon, John, Pugsley, Ravenser, Matthew, EW Mike, Briz1234 ("The" Brian Hanson), and Andi –Cairnsroadworks... to name but a few. Thanks also must go to Rob Maynard and Martin Walker for allowing me to get some close access to RSG and Gordon.
     
    Right, so here’s the final stages... weathering.

    The body weathering was undertaken with the usual, and much talked about technique of applying a mix of sleeper grime and frame dirt with an airbrush to the body lower sides, and then removing this with a white spirit soaked cotton bud moved in vertical downward strokes, continuing to slowly build up the layers and then finished with a gentle dusting of the same colour, with a little “brake dust” mixed in to lighten the colour.

    The buffers were given a coating of dirty black mixed with silver representing a dirty grease colour, swirled to represent how the grease would accumulate. Over this a light application of black was applied, and this was then subject to “contact” with a blunt object (I this case the top of a propelling pencil cap) to twist and remove the black “grime” to reveal the contacted grease underneath… which seemed to work
    A little “thin” black was bled into the crevices formed at the sandbox covers’ edges… as well as within the cantrail grills (originals), and the nose intakes and engine intakes received a light application also… although their “louvered” construction did not necessarily need this, I was just adding a representation of the collected grime.
     
    The chassis and bogies received a light dusting of the sleeper grime and frame dirt with an airbrush and these were also streaked with the white spirit soaked cotton buds. The bogies were treated separately to gentle application of weathering powders (Tamiya), applying the light rust colours into the bogie nooks and crannies, lightly dusting with a light brushing … and then blending a bit more with a light dusting of a thinners moistened brush to blend the powders in. I managed to forget to grab any photos of these stages… but suffice to say, that these, add to the general texture of the underside frames to compliment the (still separate) body.
    A light dusting of roof dirt was applied along the centre sections of the roof starting from the engine exhaust ports; on the cab roofs, this was wiped away using the same downward strokes with the soaked cotton bud as before, leaving the central “dirty” area along the centre line – where the cleaners wouldn’t normally reach. This was also over sprayed onto the bonnet tops – where the exhaust would naturally drift to. Dirty black was added to the exhaust ports, with light drifting away from each in both directions. Light spraying of dirty black followed by Tamiya black weathering powders and some dry brushing was used to represent the oil staining running down the bodyside from each exhaust port.

    Prior to body mating, and final checks, the cabs were checked and fettled,


    SWD DCC Sound chip added, and wiring soldered to the already installed 8ohm bass reflex speaker in the fuel tanks… please excuse the tape used to secure te wiring... I’ve tidied that up since (honest).
     
    Upon reassembly, there were some mating issues and I couldn’t get the body to sit down at all… finally I found the culprit... in this trapped wire that would sit within the recess for the body screws. Once tidied, the body was mated to the chassis.

     
    The subsequently apparent slight discrepancy in colour between the chassis and body was dealt with a subtle application of the aforementioned lighter colour (brake dust, sleeper grime frame dirt mix) to both the chassis, bogies and lower edges of the body… leaving a light dusting along the lower edges, including the tumblehome, and fuel tanks and bogies… Prior to undertaking this “spraying”, in order to protect the wheels, and electric pickup surfaces, a mask was made to slot into the bogies, covering the wheels… template shown here… masks shown here fitted… and removed afterwards.



     
    Finally, the bogies were treated to a light infilling with thinned black paint to the bogie spring recesses, around the brake callipers and to represent oil stains on the axle cover bolts and brake cylinders. On the body, light application of the same thin black was applied running down from the nose intake grills per prototypical photographs… referred to in all cases.

     
    The overall result is, in my opinion, quite pleasing… and I think that it’s been worth the effort. I hope that some of you agree… and will consider giving it a go yourself. As a novice, I’ve achieved this, and learnt a lot in the process… just imagine what someone with some skill could achieve.

    So, there we are... and end to this project. Thanks for reading

    Jon
  22. Jon020
    Dear all, given that I’ve not reported much of late, nor achieved all that much to be honest... there’s quite a bit to be done outside of modelling at the moment, so life is, as usual, taking priority. However, despite this some progress has been made.
     
    The bogies were separated again, and the wheel rims masked... and sides treated to an airbrushed coat of weathered black... and then some brakedust mixed with track dirt was dusted over this. The bogie towers have had their copper pick up strips painted black and are all now reassembled ready for loco assembly and finishing (including sanding pipe fitting – to be done last).
     

     

     
     
    I’ve also been working on the cab interiors. On my last projects, I set about painting these as accurately as possible, but given that the cabs fitted to the 8-pin chassis are, er, basic... and wrong... the painting gave a feel to the interior but no accuracy . The cab on the 21-pin chassis is better, but the bulkhead is still wrong. You’ve seen the bulkheads in an earler post... and yes, I’ve now got a taller driver, and secondman to fit – once painted up (another job) but I wanted the cab interior to look... well, just a bit better. The pics here show the result of this work... based on photos from Brian Daniels detail photos sets (see class 55 group details thread), some filing (actually a lot of filing) and plasticard, plastic rod, microstrip and wire additions later and we have this as the result. I scouted around for a handbrake wheel and was rather drawn to Colin Cragg’s items, but having discussed this with him by e-mail (thanks Colin for the prompt responses ) we realised that the wagon handwheels would all be a bit big. I therefore took a deep breath and separated the body and chassis from my 21-pin Class 55 (55008) that sits weathered on my photoplank on a shelf above my desk (with 55015 and my first 55020 for company) and removed the handbrake wheels... I don’t really peer in to the cab anyway (or so I convinced myself)... I can always replace it if something becomes available. This was mounted to a .4mm brass wire shaft and stuck into a hole drilled through the bulkhead – as seen in the result. Dials are currently just drilled out “a bit†and the new shape means that when fitted the AWS control box (is that what it is?) is just about visible from outside (as it should be) in the middle of the facia. Second cab can be seen in the photos as a “work in progress†– it’s a nice modelling task to work on in the evenings! And yes, the phone handset cord is there – but no, I decided not to coil it (I’m not that mad)
     

     

     
     
    Finally, there is the painting..! Something that I said I was not looking forward to. Well, the loco was treated to Halfords grey primer and railmatch white primer at the ends... I then practiced the art of airbrushing (properly) on my two coach bodies... and this looked ok – the yellow ends weren’t bad... but I must have bottled it a bit when I turned to the 55 ends, and sprayed very cautiously into the nooks and crannies... and never really opened up the paint flow fully. Result: a less than satisfactory finish! The first coat went on reasonably well... having read comments elsewhere, I laid down a coat of Humbrol yellow first... as the pigment sits better... and this was ok. The darker railmatch yellow was the problematic layer... and once dry, i had to sand off a lot of this with some careful use of 1200 and 2000 grade paper... getting back to a reasonable finish for another try.
     
    This time, I had another go with the coaches... and as you can see, I gave the white roof’d one a good going over, this is the shinier side, resulting from putting plenty of paint down, by opening up the paint delivery nozzle (I pulled back further on the trigger)... got it plenty wet and it flowed.
     

     
     
    I then tried this on the front of the 55... and whilst it was not possible to deliver quite so much in a curved (multi-faceted) location, the result was better than before. I will now let this dry thoroughly, rub down the remaining few slightly rough bits and give a good final coat (once back from hols next week). Well, I was aiming for perfection, but I’m no Ian Rathbone (with more practice maybe), so I’ll settle for an achievable result and make sure that the final finish is one that can withstand reasonable inspection if not expert scrutiny. So, here are a few photos.
     

     

     

     
     
    Now, it could just be me... but I can’t help thinking how nice Deltics might have looked in railfreight grey... this may be as close as mine gets to that livery!
     
    This painting lark has been another challenge to overcome... and with a few setbacks and reconsiderations.., and then some more practice, I think that I can now see how to proceed and get some half decent results. Reading Ian Rathbone’s “Painting and Lining†from time to time certainly helps, although I do find myself marvelling at some (all actually) of the photos in that book – the painting of those models is just superb... something to aim for maybe
     
     
    Well, my next post will be a while off, but I’ll grab one more evening’s work on those cabs (hopefully) before my boys experience their first 140mph+ journey down to and through the big tunnel that takes us through to “the foreign†for a few days.
     
    Thanks for reading, Au revoir.
  23. Jon020
    My Nimbus, detailed by Nimbus20, on Flickr
    Well, it’s been a while since I last updated this blog and my last entry had my Deltic at a BR “blue” stage with a half-decent finish which I decided to stick with. Since then, I’ve made some headway... well, almost finished in fact, and sampled some proper Twin Napier haulage at the deltic 50 event at the East Lancs Railway... which was a weekend to remember and gave me some more inspiration to crack on and get this project finished... I’ve some photos on my flickr pages if anyone’s interested.
    Having a short run in “Gordon’s” cab was great; although haulage with 14,850 HP up front (from the front coach) was hard to beat... oh the noise, oh the clag!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/nimbus20/sets/72157627933023922/
    Markings were applied with a mixture of success, all waterslide from Fox (numbers), Modelmaster (arrows) and Precision (TOPS and shed panel). After this, I drew up a list of jobs to do... which was: Fit headcode surrounds; fit brake chains; fit speedo harness to body; fit glazing – cab side, windscreens and laserglaze to bodyside; glue buffers in; fit bodyside window surrounds (I had some fun with these – not); create some bogie-body shackles, and; weather.

    It was still quite a list... but hopefully the final list.
    Some might note that missing from the list is “fit DCC sound chip”. I’d been thinking about this, but I’ve hit a snag – as I’ve fitted bulkheads, it might not fit in the space left inside the body above the chassis... I’m going to seek more advice on this as I don’t want to lose the red fans that are apparent through the grills... my aim was for visual appearance, and I won’t want to lose that at the cost of sound... or even digital control. I discussed this with Brian Hanson this evening and I think the conclusion is that it should fit ok... so maybe an order will be placed.
    Highlights:
    Brake chains – previously, I created a new link for the chain from 0.2mm wire, but this time, I just opened up one link (carefully cut through one side) and hooked this to the rest of the links and through the hole in the brake lever.
    Bodyside windows – these are new laserglaze items from Brian Hanson... the part cover the bodyside windows and windscreens. I didn’t fit the windscreen items as I hadn’t fitted the etch screen as originally intended (next time maybe).. for these I retained the original glazing (despite them not being so good) but the bodyside windows are worth the effort. 12 Pieces are provided, two per “window” ... an inner and outer pane... make sure you get them the right way around, the outer pane is always towards outer ends of the loco. Each was fitted, inner first, then outer... and then set in place with some Kleer.

    It’s important to ensure that the outer pane is left flush, of just recessed, of the outer body surface, after which the window surrounds can be fitted... again with Kleer. OK... this was my first attempt at this and getting these surrounds to stick in place – and stay stuck was a bit of a problem; they’re still prone to annoyingly falling off if lightly knocked, although the final coat of Kleer over the whole glazing and into the etch edged has helped (fingers crossed).

    Brian Hanson recommended polishing these before fitting to better represent the real chrome finish, and I tried but clearly didn’t find a good polishing agent, so left them as they were. However, the change in appearance with these windows is noticeable – they’re much larger and suite the bodyside look much better that the originals. I took the opportunity to leave one window slightly open to ventilate the interior. I’m very grateful to Brian for providing these samples... they’re well worth the effort. Next time, I’ll do the windscreen surrounds properly and fit the flush glazing there too. The cab side windows are originals; as I’m doing Nimbus, I did not need to add the handle or extra plates (Nimbus didn’t get these)... so a little extra paint was all that was necessary.
    The headcode surrounds fit on with a little Kleer... as usual, and the headcodes themselves are the basic Domino units but with Precision Labels alpha-numeral codes stuck over the top... codes selected to represent the up and down Scotsman... which could be a reasonable working for Nimbus (I must check the Chronicles of Napier website and the 1974 timetables).
    I did briefly swap these out and put in Precision domino panels ... as these were better than the original Bachmann ones... and more representative of the locos as I remember them... but I reverted back to 4-digit codes as I think these look nicer... although it will make life trickier for all my other locos... c’est la vie!
    The buffers were glued in at the rear... I wasn’t bothered about them “springing” and was more interested in getting them straight and at a reasonable stroke length, which I think I got. The shanks were painted with a dark metal mix, and front ends coated with silver/black mix, swirled as before... left to go off, coated with a thin black and then scraped with a blunt edge to cut through to the “grease” below.
    The Shawplan windscreen wipers were folded to shape after the blades marked with a black marker pen... and fitted (after weathering) with some glue and glaze.
     
    One final item worth mentioning is that of the bogie-body shackles. When I made the body and bogie mods, I added small hooks to take these shackles in case I wanted to give them a try, considering that it might be a bit much to attempt in 4mm. However, I fitted body to chassis to check the distance and made up a small jig using 0.6mm wire, which I held in a small bench vice. 0.2mm wire was then wound around the jig’s prongs and then wrapped around the centre ... creating a wrapped figure of 8 dual loop.

    Cut and cleaned up, these were hooked onto the body pieces. They take a little fiddling once the body/bogie is assembled, but once weathered I think that the extra “tie” between the body and bogies will be worth the effort – and they don’t actually seem to restrict bogie movement... which is good – although they do need a bit of time to fit properly.. and disassembling is now not a task to take lightly.


     
    Finally, there’s the weathering ... but I’ll write a separate (and final?) entry for that.
     
    Finally... at Scaleforum I picked up a turnout kit (Exactoscale/P4 track company) to try my hand at a P4 turnout. The kit is well packaged and I went for a “long” turnout for two very good reasons: 1) I wanted the turnout to be long enough to allow a co-co to negotiate it easily – David Furmage, who made Longcarse West ( a small layout I found very inspirational) used A6 turnouts and David said that this made it ok for bo-bos, but would be tight for anything else, and 2) they’d run out of shorter turnout kits. So, I got a C10 turnout. The radius of this is 3820mm, giving a full scale radius of 14 ½ chains; as the Deltic minimum curve was 6 chains, I think I’ll be ok with mine, even with the bogie shackles... but time will tell.
    Photo showing the turnout kit, point motor adapters and the photo plank already put together using C&L track that I already had

    Ok... a final shot... or two

    Right – thanks for bearing with me – blog written as promised... hope it’s of use/interest!

    Any comments welcomed... as always
     
    I'll post a seperate weathering blog entry and then (in 2011 challege style) I'll add a summary entry to identify all the bits done in this project.. and quite a project it's been... and I'll add my acknowledgements to all of you then... you know who you are, you've all been a big help along the way.
     
    BRs... Jon
  24. Jon020
    Dear all,
    This will be a quick entry, with nothing stupendous to show, but the last couple of evenings have allowed me some practice and deployment of some railmatch BR Blue to my Nimbus.
    Having bounced back due to the huge support received in response to my previous posts, I'm back where I was... but this time with a better result. This is good. The Railmatch paint is a lott more "matt" that the Precision paint I was using, and this has clearly helped me in my novice "insufficently experienced" approach. The GUVs were treated to some practice first, and this time, the result was smooth.


    As before, the final practice was again good, but it look like the last coat on the Deltic went a little rough, but I'm viewing this as more of a rough finish that orange peel - and working on the principle of "how good is good enough", I think I will live with it.
    Looking back on comments before, I think it was Jim S-W that suggested use of some Kleer to smooth the surface - and I think I will give this a go to give the transfers a better base. Also... looking at the locos in mid 70s, they were a bit grubby, but when the paint was clean it still had some shine - although that all faded by about 77 onwards (unless repainted).


    I'm a little unsure how adding enamels and thinners to the surface after using kleer will affect it - will it be "hard" enough (?) but I intend to practice again on one of the GUVs first. I think its a case of one side at a time, letting the Kleer flow and flood out. I plan to airbrush it - anyone have any thoughts on that ? But I plan to ask around at Scaleforum tomorrow.
     
    I had hoped to bring the loco to Leatherhead... but with the paint still "hardening" I'd rather not disturb it too much. More photos will follow as the job continues... but I think that I've got over this hurdle now.

    Thanks for your patience - I'm getting there.
  25. Jon020
    Since my last entry, there has been some work completed. The loco body was eventually stripped with Modelstrip, which was far easier and kinder that the results achieved on one GUV using Superstrip... which I won’t be using again.
    The photo shows the results on the two GUVs, one (upper) stripped in super strip, the other in Modelstrip.

    The other photo shows the 55 “modelstrip’d”. One etch (an exhaust) was found in the bowl... and some others needed a little sticking back down, but generally it went well.

    The Extreme Etchings parts are more robust that I’d imagined. Those bufferbeam footsteps take a lot of hammering and knocking and they’re still holding fast... well done Brian!
    SO.... a big thank you to all of you who contributed comments to my last blog entry; I was a little low... and you bucked me up; which was at least a few letters of the alphabet away from how I was originally feeling. THANK YOU.
    After a little careful rubbing with 2000 grade paper, I applied two light coats of Halfords grey and Railmatch primer white to the ends... which is where she’s at now.
     
    Hopefully, I’ll get some daylight time at home in the next few days (the shorter evenings now are a nuisance) and get some yellow onto the ends... and then (after a few days drying) start the blue again. Fingers crossed, and GUVs ready to be practiced on again!
     
    Whilst all that’s been settling, I turned my attention to the chassis/bogies, to add some more of the details needed there – although the final length of speedo cable from the body will come in after painting.
    The modifications included fitting 0.2mm wire pieces to enable the brake chains to be attached at the bogie, near the cylinders. This is a different method to before given that this time I used the Hornby 50 cylinders... but hopefully the end result will look ok. I also added small 0.25 wire hoops under the brake “hangers” to allow the fitting of elastic “sanding pipes”. To get these to droop at the right angle, I also added a small piece of microstrip just inboard of the hoop... and the result looks ok.

    The elastic is the inner core of sheering (?) elastic from a fabric shop... that needs the outer (2) layers of fabric (Cotton?) unwinding... leaving this thin elastic inner which is suitable here.
    Early on in this project, I acquired some access to 55022 to photograph the points that the sanding pipes (used to) attach to on the body underside. Whilst I will not be representing the inner end hopper in any detail, the positioning is something I’ve tried to show... and I drilled 8 0.55mm holes in the plastic chassis to take these “pipes”.

    About 35mm of elastic is used on each point, to allow enough material to sit inside the chassis and not fall out. Looking at the trial fit, the outer ends ones will need some persuading to sit out a bit – so that they protrude behind the bufferbeam steps as they should on an ETS equipped loco – but a touch of “glue” should help this.

    Apologies for the bent airbrake train pipe hangers – they need straightening and I didn’t notice when I took the photos.

    Finally, here’s the chassis with all bits fitted... and now safely stored in its “really useful box”... complete with bass reflex speaker cable coiled on top... should I fit a Loksound V4.0 at some point.

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