Emmo

Can you send me a link please for these micro switches and any advice on wiring them up please. I am strictly DC. Cheers.

I use H&M point motors and rely on the frog polarity switches on them as well as the actual point blade contact. Both are not ideal and prone to fail and I was thinking of making up a bank of mini levers (aka Hornby style) to use as simple switches for the polarity, the metal lever being the common (frog). With me so far? Obviously one would have to switch the blades with the electrical switches I already have on my panel to operate the motors, but as a back up, you would also switch the Hornby style lever to ensure polarity has changed. Would this work do you think, or would it cause an electrical short if the blades/built-in H&M polarity switches made actual contact and you’d forget to switch the Hornby lever, which would still be left on the previous polarity?

...when I said 'boycott' in my original posting, I meant the catering outlets, not the exhibition itself!

While I always enjoy Peterborough show, I get continually annoyed of the exploitation by the catering outlets at the showground. Extortionate prices, lousy food and filthy tables and surroundings - we ate in the foyer area surrounded by remnants of other people's droppings on the floor and table, disgusting. For the prices they charge I would expect reasonable restaurant surroundings and service. £3.50 for a cornish pastie was way overpriced considering you get plastic cutlery to eat it with and don't even get a plate with it. Peterborough is the most expensive catering I have experienced at any model railway exhibition. I would urge everyone in future to boycott these places and maybe with a bit of luck eventually they will have to improve and bring the prices down to an acceptable level.

My thanks to you guys. I like Gary's method which I may use - a long job to do all motors on the layout but if it achieves reliable running well worth it. I am also interested Davd (or is it David?) in your advice to use both auxiliary switches for the frog polarity. Could you explain in more detail please as to how the wiring goes for this - or is it just a belt and braces device being exactly the same as the one switch I am using for the job at the moment? Martin

I am using the method of point control suggested in the instructions that come with Fulgurex motors, using a brass wire bent at right angles to the point which operates a fulcrum through a small piece of brass tube. Even with 3mm points (hand made) the brass rod does not travel enough to throw the blade completely over to the stock rail. My gut instinct was that the movement created by the motor would have been too much if anything, far from there not being enough! Anyone have any pointers on this? Please, although you mean well, I don't want any answers relating to "Tortoise" and how I should have used them instead, or the fact they are better. It's personal preference and budget at the end of the day and I have committed to purchasing the Fulgurex, just need a solution to my problem, thanks.