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wagonbasher

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Everything posted by wagonbasher

  1. Surely its down Andy's animal skin strong man suite !!!! Andy
  2. Get out the cocktail stick and chase those bubbles away !"! Your bracket casting is so....... small you could apply the resin with a cocktail stick !! Andy
  3. Spent some of tonight on the viaducts wingwalls. You may have thought they were complete but all the photos show just one (Its all smoke and mirrors). I have another ready for paint and mounting, a further wall shaped, formed, reinforced, awaiting cladding (although all the stone scribing is complete) and the last one is just the top of the wall. Since it is merged with the steel industrial viaduct it has been butchered it to within an inch of its life. Photo's to follow. After that there are four brick pillars to add on the ends of the parapet wall and then add all of that cast capping stones to cut and glue (probably need to cast some more - Andy Y pinched some for the pub end earlier this week). Andy Y is then going to add 160 years!! Andy
  4. I do hope the rivet detail can be seen, if not well.... I know they are there. You can see aluminium tape rivets in action on the BCB viaduct thread and a bit on page 5 of Andy York joins In!!! Although I used a tool meant for the job to emboss, the rivets could be embossed individually with any pointed implement. You can buy the self adhesive tape at DIY stores - it is meant for sealing ducting really Andy
  5. I promised a photo or two.... Spams Spans with painted riveted girder tops and abutment pillar caps
  6. Most of that work is down to 2 many spams, he is away on other things at the moment so we are just left to tidy up some loose ends. So yes I agree his work is excellent. Edit - sorry Andy, you beat me to it. Andy
  7. Andy You need a red or blue streak where a car has failed to notice the corner Andy
  8. Re the Perspex... If a flat back was important I would do that, most of the things we are talking about don't really matter, fencing, cappings etc. By the way, for those that don't get this, you use Perspex or clear plastic so you can see if you have trapped a big bubble on the surface of the resin, otherwise any plastic will do. Never tried talc, will give it a go although the talc is less likely to get down into those naughty cracks that hide the bubbles. Andy
  9. This evening I have painted the tops of the industrial viaduct. They were clad in aluminium tape with embossed rivet detail and needed a special aluminium primer and then the dark grey and some rust. You can see the aluminium shining out on the first photo in this thread. I have also popped some caps on the top of the industrial viaducts four abutment pillers. I will post a picture when the lighting is better Andy
  10. In total between us there are about 8 BAA's and or BBA's in various states of construction. The plan was to model an eye to the sky coil train - In the mid 70's, the relatively new BAA's didn't last long before they were butchered to take cradles and other special adaptions They have taken a bit of a back seat. With help from RMweb members we have devised a working timetable that suites the freight workings of the area and the coil train doesn't feature. That's not to say it wont be finished or that it wont run but we have prioritised more appropriate stock. The pressure at the moment is on steel rolling stock to come and go from the steel works - billets in on twin bolsters and rolled section out on bogie bolsters. Of the Bolsters, we are utilising some dated BR stock that is out of the box with correct brakes and some with raised Bolsters that Mark is constructing with scratch built bolsters that would be 'more common' for the period. At Peterborough we plan to use the exchange sidings more than we have done to date with a mixture of bespoke steel works workings and pick up type workings. Andy
  11. There are a number of ways, vibration, vacuum, cocktail stick. As a rule the more detailed the master, the more chance of air bubbles. Its part of the fun. From the picture we seam to have expelled the cottages Andy
  12. This shot shows the resin setting in the mould. This is not an easy mould, the silicone seeps into any gap and depite me packing the inside of the master with blue tak the silicones fingers were still into the master creating places for air bubbles to hide. Vidgulant use of a cocktail stick chases most of the bubbles away and milliput does the rest. Final shot, load on the wagon - this is what the steel works is making out of those ingots.
  13. Carefully peeling of the new mould reviels the master, the silicone is elastic enough to stretch over the ends of the steel load. . Trimming off the bottom of the mould is important in keeping the mould flat.
  14. I promised some pics, i'll post a few at a time. First shot shows the master hidden under the silicone. The silicone is set within a casting box made of plasticard
  15. good answer Geoff. I was hoping you would reply since I knew my bus gag was a bit lame.. Andy
  16. I have also spent the weekend casting from some new moulds: Two sizes of eye to the sky steel coils for the BBAs and the BAA (have I said that right ?) - not for Peterborough though. Steel loads for the bolsters to take away from our steel works and some 1950's kitchen fridges, cookers and washing machines to add detail to the 'tat' man that occupies the old cart shed. I've taken some pics, to follow !! Welcome to the club Mark Andy
  17. I've spent the evening casting capping stones for the viaduct and the canal bridge. I just bought a new batch of resin A & B and the product cures in 10 mins. my old stuff could take 5 - 6 hours. Its not the make it is just the age of the product. So.. I have been bopping them out tonight. What is great as a product is that with the application of a bit of heat you can bend it without effort which is necessary for curved bridge wing walls. Andy
  18. TV Chefs appear to have those asbestos fingers... I don't !! Andy
  19. Some of the best weathering techniques come about by accident. What can u turn a parrot poop into?
  20. The Parrot needs toning down, I would suggest a brown grey wash and then dry brush light grey around the beak and feet - that should do it Andy
  21. are we talking about stubbies fingers ??? - Non metallic ? Andy
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