Sasquatch

Kal. As regards Peco rail. To my mind if the gauge is 16.5 HO the sleeper spacing should be closer otherwise it won't look right. Most of us mere mortals run RTR locos & stock straight from the box so have to settle for HO trackwork. The only thing that's wrong with code 100 is that it looks wrong in HO scale so code 75 looks much better and gives the HO trackwork a scale longer look. The best improvement is to cut off all those ugly bits around the switches which means using different motors to the Peco ones but hey. Who uses them! Code 75 on left, ]code 100 on right Yes that's Atlas Code 100 and Peco double slip. I used the code 75 slip as the code 100 version is naff!

Measuring things on google earth I have deduced that there needs to be some compression but not as much as I thought! The corners come out at roughly 260 yards ,that's 10' in OO scale. I have 19' allowing 3' either end for the hidden curves I am left with 13'. If the track layout is built to HO scale (am using HO track anyhow, if that makes any sense) that reduces things to 8.75' allowing a nice run to the tunnel. First job is to adapt the signaling diagram Andrew has given me, to backdate it a little then I can rebuild my lever frame. Here is a Google Earth image from 2002 which shows the viaduct foundations before they became obscured by vegetation. The arch measured 35'.

Thank you Andrew. What a nice surprise!!!! Had I included the distant arms and got the down/up the right way around on the Halifax-Keighley line my example wouldn't be too wrong albeit having the sidings on the wrong end of the frame! Am very happy, thanks again!!!! Regards Shaun

Take it you haven't seen the signaling block diagram blunder on my thread. I understand it but am no expert, Really don't care what anyone thinks. My theory is that if you don't go there you never gonna know! It's a specialist subject for sure and unless you know the exact track layout for any given point in time or have an old plan then some of it must be down to guesswork. I spent hours to get as far as I did and know it's still not right but not even a single like let alone any comments has damaged my ego. Well at least a little bit!

That would be telling!

I must be going mad myself

the mini Squatch was a resized avatar. I'll see what I can do.

Having slept on it I realize that 6 distant signals have been left off my block diagram. They would of course be off stage! Also realized there should be 3 facing point locks. One other point is that I don't see any ground dolls or shunt arms on the posts in any pictures. Any help with this would be much appreciated.

That's the thing Jaz. There's not many pictures of the real thing so I can get away with murder on this project. Everything was gone by the late 60s. Am looking into building working GNR somersault signals for this project. that's going to be a real challenge!

From reading on the internet and looking at other block diagrams I have deduced the following. Please feel free to correct me or point out anything obviously wrong. Note: 3,4,23 & 24 are situated on the right!! #4 is pictured in the photograph above.

No that's not right. There weren't any facing points! Only 3 facing point locks. (Have seen what looks like one in one of the pictures) Some of the signal posts are sighted on the opposite platform. I'm gathering this was to improve the spotting distance on the curves as the station buildings would obscure them if they were placed on the left.

The signaling at Queensbury was controlled by three boxes as built. Each box was responsible for each of the three junctions and the block diagram and signal layout would have been quite standard. With each box accepting trains from its respective stem route and accepting and passing on trains to the other two. Queensbury south junction box had two sidings and the east junction box had two with passing loops. All pretty standard stuff. However. At some point in time the north and south junction boxes were removed. The east junction had its sidings lifted also. The frame in this box must have been big enough to accept control of the whole station. How many levers and to what arrangement they were laid out is beyond my limited capabilities of deduction. Somewhere around 34 30 is my closest estimate, with no room for spares. 10 signals 8 shunt signals 6 points 4 double points 4 facing point locks 1 catch point (on the up Halifax-Bradford line. Possibly to protect the diamond from runaways) But not in all pictures. And there could well have been detonators.</p> That'll teach me to sit and do the thinking before spending hours building up a lever frame as mine model has only 24. Should I make another piece of wood and 6 levers and redo the whole thing? Edit: getting confused over left and right (Haven't driven on the left for 15 years) or just plain stupid.

Here's what I've made but am unhappy. First is the sequence of assembly.

Duncan. Queensbury being a triangle it would suit it very well if 4 levers (two signal and two points) were switched to the Bradford - Keighley route as this will be a continuous run on the layout. Which ones in the box mounts, a very difficult question. I'm having a big rethink before breaking out the paints. Shaun.

Thanks Jaz. Not one of my best models by far. Have always loved building military vehicles. This goes back to the days before the trains. As kids all the boys in the street had boxes of those Airfix soldiers. I purchased a £9 Lima train set from my grans Mail order catalogue with my weekly £1 pocket money just to play soldiers with. That's how it all began! I still buy Airfix kits when I see them at flea markets they make for good conversions and scrap!

Sure! This was an Airfix model until it got chopped up and detailed as one of the specials that got dropped into Arnheim during WWII.

Never seem to get as far as I'd like to. Am quite tired from catching up with work today but have got some done. Frame is made by fashioning a piece of softwood to shape, in this case Alder. Thin plastic rod is glued to 0.010"x0.040" styrene strip in130mm lengths. Saw cuts at 3mm centers are made in the arched top of the wooden piece. 13mm lengths of the two part styrene are trimmed and glued by dipping in a tiny drop of contacta. Then the bottom dipped in instant cyano and placed in the slots. My eyes gave up after 7 levers. Hopefully more tomorrow. I'm happy not to be an N scale modeler this evening!

Thanks Jim. It's a fun layout and was a good learning curve.

The junction signal on Dunster was made from two Ratio kits. One an old round post style the other was the working kind with the clear lenses. I drilled out the post sections and used filament wire to supply the power. This would work for the ground dolls. It was very fiddly to solder up and lower voltage bulbs would be needed.

Pure chance. I think it might be down to the fact that acrylic paint dries quite quickly and two of the stages involve wiping most of the paint off with kitchen towel. I've started on the lever frame. It won't be accurate but better than a bare interior, will do a step by step post!

In hind sight fiber optic would be the better choice. Look at the picture showing the rear and the wires to the bulb stand out. Mind you those signals are 8-9mm high and photographed in super macro!

Will try to redo the video. It was rather late and I needed to get to bed! Duncan, that was my original idea to use fiber optic. To get the light to shine out of the lamp I'm guessing it would need cutting at an angle on the end.

A real b####r to get that camera to behave in such a small space. It used to be a border collie in a past life, very clever but stubborn!