Sasquatch

Excellent tree dt! About wagon loads. If you make a block to fit loosely,then glue a washer on top in the middle before forming a mound, painting black and adding the coal. A magnet can be used to lift the loads out giving the option of running empties! I use plywood blocks and roofing tar which comes in one of those mastic gun type tubes. That way no painting is needed and you can just dip the block into a tub of coal and you're done. The roofing tar might melt your P.I.R though. Edited;.................................................... with my specs on.

Holy smokes!!! (no pun intended) Did you strip t' paint off or juste paint ower top like?

Trouble was she got up for a pee about 2AM just when I'd cleaned the brush and sat down to post on here!! :nono:

Tell me about it. I'm a cabinet maker!!! 8 to 11 hours a day for most of my life!! I do buy the kind with the cool flow valve. Problem is when routing eye protection must be worn and the goggles steam up.

I've had an idea about these six station buildings. Basically they have plain wooden sections, door sections and window sections 42 of them in all. The plan is to build one of each and an end then make RV rubber molds and cast the rest. Same way I did the Abbey. :crazy: :crazy:

Oh yes I should have explained. Only one side of the cabin can be viewed at one time so the difference wont show. A wide strip of plastic card scribed down the center, marked 5mm intervals, drilled with progressively larger bits. Then the outside V cuts with my mate Stanley before cutting in half along the scribe. It did need cleaning up and adjusting with a round needle file, I held it in mini mull grips. I will try to think ahead on my next build because had I assembled the window casement I could have sprayed all that green instead of sitting up half the night with a tiny brush and getting into bother with SWMBO.

The green is mixed with Doncaster and Darlington engine greens with plenty of uniform green. So much for not wanting to use solvent based paints. There's a warm breeze on the night air so the window was open. Honest

Great stuff Clay. Like the new trailer!

Not been a fan of enamel paint for quite some time. It’s OK when spraying stock with the appropriate mask but for sitting in doors with the windows shut, having had double pneumonia which lasted 4 months I find the fumes too much. This evening I went to great lengths to mix up some crafters acrylic to match the humbrol. Chimney has been detailed and received the acrylic stone base coat. For the life of me I can only find one valence from the Knightwing kit so am building the other from plastic strip. Very tedious job!!

Am looking into having a back and forth tram diving about in the mill town. Anyway here is how I made the chimney pot. A piece of hollow plastic tube turned in the cordless with emery stick and chisel scalpel. Sample stone work using Humbrol 84 which has been hiding in the paint drawer for a decade.

Some new stock had the wheels picked out in white back during pre grouping days (before 1923) and the practice seems to have continued into the LNER, LMS & Southern. The white didn't last long. I take the wheels out and pick out the centers with rust powder or paint. If you get any on the treads or axel points clean it off because it will dirty up the track and stop the wheels from rotating.

J........ You don't know how close you came to me clicking on the disagree button! You sure know how to put someone off their lunch mate!

The bar across the bottom is called a tie bar. Its purpose is to stop the spread of the chassis when the brakes are on. So to throw a little light on your wagons chassis. This is from one of these. An old Triang Victorian brake van of dubious origin. Hornby must have reintroduced the tooling as they must be in good condition having been hardly used. Love the wagon Jaz. That's what modeling is all about, making something awesome out of bits and pieces! Original photo available at the fantastic Triang Railway Collection website.

Way off topic I know. I do love these old photographs you keep digging up Tony mate. Check out the posy of what appear to be mixed race youths catching a free ride. How times have changed. You're not even allowed on the railway without a dayglow vest, hard hat,walkie talkie and health & safety certification these days. These look like bottom discharging colliery wagons. Can't say I've ever seen this type before.

Hi Andy. Been working on those gradients too. There won't be any straight track and most of it will be on the gradients even the storage loops! Is that even possible. I'm coming close to a final plan and should get out a board and make a 1/12th plan.

Did Keighley ever have trams?

You are right there Kal mate. I could have just settled for the Heljan Signal Box kit. Am sitting here studying pictures of Keighley and think I might just end up modeling half the town! There's one spot which Jason has pointed out which has a derelict mill on the canal with the railway behind and populated hill side beyond with nice stone architecture and an inviting Pub. Just crying out to be modeled.

I don't think it matters too much Kal as long as I'm happy with it! What makes me happy is watching the trains leaning into the cant on curved viaducts or seeing one pull away from a platform and head down grade on a curve into the gloom of a tunnel and the signal return to danger. When you're watching that kind of thing you never gonna notice that the steps on the signal cabin have 11 inch risers!

Being from Brighton I can relate to this. All the train journeys taken as a kid and in my youth were on Southern electric sets! Got any vids of that 2BIL coming out of the tunnel? Am enjoying this thread very much DT.

A couple of hours this morning was spent building the staircase. This was achieved by placing 40x100thou micro strip in the modeling miter box which was clamped to the corner of the table. The fine rule was clamped into the miter box also to allow accurate spacing. Small saw cuts were made at 45° and 5mm apart. One left hand and one right. The treads were cut from a strip of suitable plastic siding, one rip of 10mm across the grooves then chopped with the Stanley knife. Assembly involved cementing the top and bottom treads in place and allowing to set before adding the other 15 which sat nicely in the saw cuts. This evening I have filled the gaps, filed the corner courses, built up the veranda end and walkway. The guard rail uses staples cut to an L shape and attached under the foot boards with cyano. The rail is attached with 5 second cyano firstly on the ends and then by adding a tiny amount to the other staples. The rest of it is just Evergreen styrene strip. Hopefully some more tomorrow.

Still waiting for the Hornby N2 chassis I purchased on eBay two weeks ago. Will be onto Shapeways as soon as it arrives. I think 69467 in lined black will look good. Was that a super heated boiler example?

Has anyone ever tried bedouin sex? It's intense!

That's looking great Jaz. Very SCRuffey In a rake of wagons or vans there would be all degree of varying weathering depending on the time each wagon received it's last overhaul.. It would not be unusual to find freshly painted or new ones (where the under frame would be black) in with decrepit vintage vehicles still wearing the last companies livery.

Got to compress things Jason, not stretch it! Ha ha!! An Ivatt class 4 with short stanier rake would look just the ticket snaking through Queensbury don't you think? I'm wondering how to mix up this LNER green as used on stations. Not worried about the shade of cream as the grime will do wonders. Next concern is the foot bridge's. I wont be able to model the ornate work on the stairways. Unless someone comes forward with some old D&S etched kit that's been long forgotten about, I think I'll just have to settle with Ratio kits without the roofs.