Mike G
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Posts posted by Mike G
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Richard
Are the doors and door handles available on the website...4mm scale?
regards
Mike
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Rich
There aren't any commercial replacements for the short, stocky buffers between the coaches. It isn't impossible to build your own with some brass tubes. It does get difficult to spring them properly, but if you make your own coupling to go round your worst curve, that won't be needed.
Mike
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Underframe
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I think you'll find these crossheads and slidebars are for BR and LMS engines, they certainly aren't a GW design. Consequently, they won't have the length of slidebar to cover the stroke of the engine. I could be mistaken, but don't think I am. There are lots of spares for OO Halls on Peters spares. Start there, it will be cheaper.
Mike
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The website is back up and the page with the webshop, is working. Dare I chance an order for flux?
Mike
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Hi Mike
Just wondered if you'd had time to do the missing motion bracket etches for the 3P yet. No pressure, just a question.
regards
Mike
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Rich
A tip I had over etching, especially where fine detail was required. Use the thickest material possible and then half etch. That way you get a reasonable strength in the length of the side and a good depth of definition in the detail. I believe your coach will benefit from using etched sides. To my eyes you've lost some detail in the printing / cutting.
Mike
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12 hours ago, The Fatadder said:
I am about to place another order with Comet as I need another batch of vac cylinders and dynamos, I think I may well just place the bogie order at the same time...
Hold your horses Rich, I have an absolute mountain of Comet bogies, what size do you need? If I have them, they're yours for the postage. I'll never use them - I have been meaning to put them on Ebay....
But I do have a question on the L22, were the rain strips really that thick?
Stay safe
Mike
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Roxey mouldings are worth a try. And I know Mark Seward - who runs the GWR modeller Facebook group - also does a fully working GWR corridor connector. The Masokit ones are good, but you will need surgery on your index finger, because you have to hold so many parts to solder them in...don't ask! I made 3 sets and I could not stand the thought of more burning flesh, so gave up and used paper ones from Modelmania in Bristol UK.
Mike
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It appears Andrew has started to put the instruction sheets up with the sides. All the ones I have were complete.
Mike
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Cracking job on what's a difficult build, especially with the rebates in the roof. Did this sit on 9" bogies? You could always get some brass sheet and make your own chassis, bit hair shirt, but with some 1.5mm brass L angle...
Mike
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13 hours ago, jwealleans said:
I have built a couple of GWR carriages for someone else using Worlsey Works etched sides and they're very good. I also built a set of GE carriages for myself which I'm very pleased with.
As long as you can source the rest of the components you need to complete it, that would be the way I;d be looking to go.
That's now going to be a problem...the Comet site has been taken down, so trying to find the bits that went with the sides is going to be hard work. I don't know if Andrew is going to re-publish that information. It was so handy and useful to see which parts were needed to complete the kit.
Mike
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It's because the buffers were different at either end of the coach. Nearly all B sets were paired for life...there are exceptions. The buffers where the sets joined were much small than the normal. This was certinly true of the E147 sets.
Have a look at Tim Ventons site, there are photos to show this.
Mike
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Nice one Rich, that's what I would have done. I'd like to see the finished job. I was going to do a set for Little Mill...but that won't be happening now.
Mike
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Is the half etched line on the end where the floor sits? If it isn't, see where the floor fits against the end. I've had a good look on the net and can't see who took the range. I've never built any of these so really haven't got anything to add. Were it mine I'd form the tumble home on the sides and see what happens. There may be oppourtunities to add something to the door to account for the difference. It's probably going to take some adding brass and filing to shape.
Good luck
Mike
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3 hours ago, leopardml2341 said:
Did your expectations materialise?
Yes...see the thread on Western Thunder, CAD corner, wheel generator.
Mike
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If your going to do a B set, look here for details ;
http://www.gwr.org.uk/b-set-notes.html
Stay safe
Mike
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Can't comment on either I use Bill Bedford sprung bogies for all my coaches. I have heard that the twin torsion MJT bogies are good.
As for the cosmetic sides MJT all the way, excellent castings. The only problem is (as with all castings) they make the bogie an unprototypical width. But untill something better comes along I'll live with that.
Mike
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4 hours ago, MJI said:
Haha I think I will try a scribe and cut, just need to buy some thin brass.
Why did my insistance on accurate trains have to go to my fun small layout?
I am the person who makes sure their BR Mark 1 vacuum cylinders are the right way round.
But then I will probably be the only person with accurate stock for 1960 and 1980 Western Region.
Luckily I like making my own stuff, RTR will never do everything.
Hence my converted and semi scratch collection of WR DMUs. My Airfix air conditioned coaches converted to accurate W vehicles.
Then you have the same modelling ethos as me. If it's there, it goes on. Which is why I came up with the etch...
Good luck
Mike
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23 hours ago, MJI said:
I have the DWG thanks, who are good etchers to use for a small batch (6)?
For a laugh I imported them into our software. But the cutting machines our customers use are designed for much bigger things and material.
I used PPD. But they have a minimum size sheet. It's worth giving them a ring, they are really helpful. The other option is printing it out, gluing down and carefully scribe - just a thought.
Mike
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I would not use the Comet roof. This is an LNER design. A better match - but still not 100% accurate - is from MJT. Part number 2970. You may have to etch the ends yourself. I can send you the top line roof profile as I used it on my B set. Drop me a PM if you need this. I just hope this system supports DWF files.
regards
Mike
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Doesn't Rumney Models do these? Either as a kit or upgrade. I'm sure Justin would be a good starting point.
rumneymodels.co.uk
Mike
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Cannot get my airbrush clean... HELP!! with explanation video...
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
Buy some cellulose thinners - Halfords. Strip the air brush. Put all the parts (tips and spray nozzle) into a seal able jar. Cover in celly. Swill the parts around vigorously, leave for an hour or two, repeat swilling.
Wet some paper towel with celly and wipe over the needle - don't apply any pressure to the needle. Gentle strokes.
Remove the small parts from the jam jar using some tweezers. Dispose of the celly - you could probably pour it back to the tin. Celly dries really quickly in air. Reassemble the air brush.
Put a small (tiny) amount of these thinners into the cup and blow it thru.
Cellulose will dissolve enamel and acrylic paint.
Best to do this outside, as celly really smells...and lingers!
regards
Mike