Mike G

Buy some cellulose thinners - Halfords. Strip the air brush. Put all the parts (tips and spray nozzle) into a seal able jar. Cover in celly. Swill the parts around vigorously, leave for an hour or two, repeat swilling. Wet some paper towel with celly and wipe over the needle - don't apply any pressure to the needle. Gentle strokes. Remove the small parts from the jam jar using some tweezers. Dispose of the celly - you could probably pour it back to the tin. Celly dries really quickly in air. Reassemble the air brush. Put a small (tiny) amount of these thinners into the cup and blow it thru. Cellulose will dissolve enamel and acrylic paint. Best to do this outside, as celly really smells...and lingers! regards Mike

Richard Are the doors and door handles available on the website...4mm scale? regards Mike

Rich There aren't any commercial replacements for the short, stocky buffers between the coaches. It isn't impossible to build your own with some brass tubes. It does get difficult to spring them properly, but if you make your own coupling to go round your worst curve, that won't be needed. Mike

Underframe

I think you'll find these crossheads and slidebars are for BR and LMS engines, they certainly aren't a GW design. Consequently, they won't have the length of slidebar to cover the stroke of the engine. I could be mistaken, but don't think I am. There are lots of spares for OO Halls on Peters spares. Start there, it will be cheaper. Mike

The website is back up and the page with the webshop, is working. Dare I chance an order for flux? Mike

Hi Mike Just wondered if you'd had time to do the missing motion bracket etches for the 3P yet. No pressure, just a question. regards Mike

Superb observation and utterly convincing modelling. Mike

Rich A tip I had over etching, especially where fine detail was required. Use the thickest material possible and then half etch. That way you get a reasonable strength in the length of the side and a good depth of definition in the detail. I believe your coach will benefit from using etched sides. To my eyes you've lost some detail in the printing / cutting. Mike

RIch This is what I use for my coaches. https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/c20/ Mike

Hold your horses Rich, I have an absolute mountain of Comet bogies, what size do you need? If I have them, they're yours for the postage. I'll never use them - I have been meaning to put them on Ebay.... But I do have a question on the L22, were the rain strips really that thick? Stay safe Mike

Roxey mouldings are worth a try. And I know Mark Seward - who runs the GWR modeller Facebook group - also does a fully working GWR corridor connector. The Masokit ones are good, but you will need surgery on your index finger, because you have to hold so many parts to solder them in...don't ask! I made 3 sets and I could not stand the thought of more burning flesh, so gave up and used paper ones from Modelmania in Bristol UK. Mike

It appears Andrew has started to put the instruction sheets up with the sides. All the ones I have were complete. Mike

Cracking job on what's a difficult build, especially with the rebates in the roof. Did this sit on 9" bogies? You could always get some brass sheet and make your own chassis, bit hair shirt, but with some 1.5mm brass L angle... Mike

That's now going to be a problem...the Comet site has been taken down, so trying to find the bits that went with the sides is going to be hard work. I don't know if Andrew is going to re-publish that information. It was so handy and useful to see which parts were needed to complete the kit. Mike

It's because the buffers were different at either end of the coach. Nearly all B sets were paired for life...there are exceptions. The buffers where the sets joined were much small than the normal. This was certinly true of the E147 sets. Have a look at Tim Ventons site, there are photos to show this. Mike

Nice one Rich, that's what I would have done. I'd like to see the finished job. I was going to do a set for Little Mill...but that won't be happening now. Mike

Is the half etched line on the end where the floor sits? If it isn't, see where the floor fits against the end. I've had a good look on the net and can't see who took the range. I've never built any of these so really haven't got anything to add. Were it mine I'd form the tumble home on the sides and see what happens. There may be oppourtunities to add something to the door to account for the difference. It's probably going to take some adding brass and filing to shape. Good luck Mike

Rich Does the chassis roll smoothly with no motor and the coupling rods on? If it does, then the gears are at fault. Before High level g/boxes turned up, anything with brass gears was treated to a toothpaste surprise. Some toothpaste mixed with a little motor oil, spread on all gears - not smoothered - and then connect it all up and let the motor run for 24 hrs. The toothpaste will smooth the edges of the gears so that they mesh easier. Obviously, a dunk in white spirit is needed to clean it all off. Just a thought... Mike

Yes...see the thread on Western Thunder, CAD corner, wheel generator. Mike

If your going to do a B set, look here for details ; http://www.gwr.org.uk/b-set-notes.html Stay safe Mike

Can't comment on either I use Bill Bedford sprung bogies for all my coaches. I have heard that the twin torsion MJT bogies are good. As for the cosmetic sides MJT all the way, excellent castings. The only problem is (as with all castings) they make the bogie an unprototypical width. But untill something better comes along I'll live with that. Mike

Then you have the same modelling ethos as me. If it's there, it goes on. Which is why I came up with the etch... Good luck Mike

I used PPD. But they have a minimum size sheet. It's worth giving them a ring, they are really helpful. The other option is printing it out, gluing down and carefully scribe - just a thought. Mike

I would not use the Comet roof. This is an LNER design. A better match - but still not 100% accurate - is from MJT. Part number 2970. You may have to etch the ends yourself. I can send you the top line roof profile as I used it on my B set. Drop me a PM if you need this. I just hope this system supports DWF files. regards Mike