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Mike G

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Posts posted by Mike G

  1. Yes, it's been a class bit of work, with a number of people involved to get this far. I've drawn the smokebox - needs alteration after a conversation with Morgan - the running plate is drawn and that will need altering as well - I had intended to reuse some of the DJH bits, but that's gone out the window now.

    Chassis will be from Comet and that will worked into the design of the running plate.

    The firebox will be etched from several pieces. It's a very complex shape, I'd like to be able to build it and then be able to lower the smokebox, boiler and firebox onto the running plate as one. Presently looking for drawings of the cylinders and firebox. I've got the cab covered. If there's anyone who'd like to share the drawings they have...

     

    And the second etch has just gone to PPD for an improved sprung pony truck.

     

    Tim

    Sorry to have dragged this so far off target, looking forward to seeing more.

     

    Mike

  2. Taper boilers are not necessarily difficult. In simple terms, think about rolling a cone shape. Then tilt your cone so that the bottom / base is horizontal. Then lop some material off the top of the front end, and some material from the bottom of the rear end. The idea is that both ends are then vertical, and you will then have a taper boiler.

     

    Not quite that simple, as you well know Ivan, the method you describe will not give flat/square ends to the length of the boiler. What you really need is someone who can either:

     

    a. Do the maths and convert the angles and lengths into a CAD drawing.

    b. Draw it in 3D and convert back to a 2D shape.

     

    Fortunately there are people on this forum who can and could do both. Not me I hasten to add.

     

    Mike

    • Like 2
  3. Michael

     

    It might be the photo (post 13, first photo) but, I think you've bent the queens post to the wrong side. The furthest long fold ups are for the sides to rest against, so should be other side of the floor. The sole bar needs to be folded over at ninety degrees (can be done with 2 rulers but a hold and fold type tool gives a neater job) and then soldered on from the bottom of the chassis. I always screw my coach chassis to a piece of scrap wood (2*1) as a fair bit of heat will go into this and you don't want a banana for a chassis on a coach.

     

    Hope I'm not teaching Granny...

     

    Good looking coach.

     

    Mike

    • Like 1
  4. >....(nobody produces a Princess wheel), ......

     

    I understand Markits are working on one.

     

    Geoff

     

    And he's willing to sell it!...has there been a change of business plan at Markits?

     

    Tim

    Wonderful work, a beautiful engine in the making.

     

    If it can be built in P4, count me in - and looking at the etches I can see no reason why not - excellent development!!

     

    Mike

    • Like 1
  5. Can you still get enamelled sauce pans?

    Go on who's going to be the first to give it a go? Let us know how you get on, with pictures. Please.

    OzzyO.

     

    Yes you can but they are really expensive - don't ask, no really don't! - better off looking in a second hand shop - (euch-a-vie! The thought of second hand pots...) and secondly...you are such a tease!! The concoctions in your list are frightening...

  6. Bill

    With a little more work you could make the whole axle assembly on that jig, save faffing about with a B-T-B gauge to get the other wheel on with.

     

    And I never said you did wonky wheels ! Where's my prize?

     

    Mike

    • Like 1
  7. Ohhh goodie, it's another B-T-B gauge!! Just what we needed in P4....and the measurements are plus and minus how much? :jester:

     

    Either that or it's an aid to putting wonkie wheels on axles with... :sungum:

     

    Mike

  8. Dave, I made the mistake of using watered down pva onto thin board, it started to curl the paper and crease so I think wall paper paste will do the same so caution..Once you start there is no going back.

     

    Leon

    What about using power pritt, stronger than the usual pritt sticks. It successfully laid a templot plan, with no curling on plywood baseboards...just a thought.

     

    Mike

  9. Mike

     

     

    Totally absorbing thread, I'd just like to clarify something from your 'brick building' - you don't colour the card before adding the brick textures? It's just the colour of the card showing thru for the mortar courses before being washed over. Just making sure I understand the process completely. It's certainly a technique I shall try.

    I am totally in awe of this, completely brilliant!

     

    kind regards

     

    Mike

  10. Brian

    The cream is an excellent match considering its cellulose...what colour did you use and who was the supplier, please? I'd agree with davidw that the chocolate needs further darkening, why not mix another concoction, its' a good, well built coach, deserves to blend in with the rest of your rake biggrin.gif. I'd also go for cleaner lines with masking tape - next time, hiding 'fluffy' edges with lining is not easy.

    Enjoying this, been some really good info come out of the thread...I'm also looking for the elusive Mk1 BR RB, but then I have a soft spot for these types of coaches.

     

    regards

     

    Mike

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