Retro_man

Nice work, Mike.

In case it can be of help, I always make works plates from Comet etched BR shedcode plates, flipped over. They're still available from Wizard. 

I do the flanges on pipe work with bits of tube, soldered to a scrap of N/S and then filed down to the correct dimension. The ID of the tube should be the same as the OD of the "pipe", or thereabouts - reaming is possible. 

 

P1050419.JPG

I use the same method for pipe flanges and use spare DJH etched shed code plates as works plates - there are plenty on their kits and they are not much good for use as shed plates.

Once painted the numbers are virtually unreadable without a magnifier.

You say it has sound so this could also be a decoder issue - I suggest you replace the decoder with a blanking plug and try again with regular DC control.

If it runs well, the problem is the decoder/settings/controller compatibility - if it shows the same problems - then you need to look at the loco electrics/motor.

Steve

Just completed, a pilot model built from test etches which will be on the stand for the next two shows, after which there will be an improved, production version which will include brass buffers and extra castings.

 

The model of Armstrong’s D10 Demonstrator of 1932, is tiny, about 2 inches long and comes with an integral high-reduction gearbox, optional compensation and IllusoDrive for smooth running.

This looks really interesting - what wheels does it need?

Steve

Canada

 

With regard to your final sentence, whilst I'm in no doubt that any business is - or should be - primarily run for the 'benefit' of the owner, isn't it widely recognised that the very best way for any business (and thus its owner) to prosper, and therefore 'benefit' from owning it, is not just to sell whatever suits them in whatever manner they care to, but to provide the greatest possible satisfaction to the largest number of Customers, who will therefore make repeat orders and will recommend the business to their friends and colleagues?

 

Heigh-ho ...

If I really wanted to 'prosper' I would have purchased a Starbucks instead of a model railway business, or perhaps even just stayed in my previous employment!

But like most model railway business owners I am in it for the love of the hobby and for the benefit of my many regular customers.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

The Keighley and Worth Valley branch was run using a full "Pull & Push" set in BR days. Note the MMS designation. One set was made up of modified corridor coaches- see the thread soon the specialist MMS coach section on RMWeb.

 

 

Hello Barry,

Could you post a link to this please as I cannot find it using the search function?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Perhaps the thinking is they can make more money by selling the licence to Bachmann than continuing to sell the trains...

Not Far off it I would imagine, Rails have BOB's say for STG139 , Take off the 20% Vat, take off 33% profit shop Margin it does come down pretty close.

The margin hasn't been 33% for quite a while!

 

Also on test will be a very, cute little Armstrong Whitworth D10, which ran on The North Sunderland Railway. This weird-looking, tiny diesel electric had a transverse engine and central jackshaft, with open or closed cab options.

That sounds very interesting - any pictures?

Steve

Canada

No, but I can send some photos of a built pair if any good to you?

It would be very useful to see those - can you post them here please?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Thankfully, the Blacksmith's LNWR's Railcar had a much easier power bogie to build.

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Samantha?

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Sorry, can't help, I haven't a clue 

Samantha is the current owner of Falcon Brassworks.

<sandhole> Thanks

<retro man> Perhaps I have confused you, I have the fret, but its not clear to me how it fits together, nor how it attaches to the frame.

I think sandhole' s suggestion of the GWR railmotor might be a good place to find how it should assemble.

 

Thanks all

K

Sorry for my confusion.

I have the Jidenco instructions - not sure if you have them - but there is not much there in any case. Samantha at Falcon Brassworks did say they will email kit instructions if anyone needs them - perhaps they have been improved :-)

The Jidenco sketch does not show the coupling rod.

Thank you for posting photos of your build, they will help me when I start on mine.

Steve

Thanks for the heads up on the valve gear. I made a start on it last night trying to figure how it went together, and decided to have a Gin instead.

 

I will do a google and look for the Falcon valve gear, do you know if its still made ?

 

And thanks for the additional photos.     If its not too much trouble could you do me a close up of the vale gear.

 

Kevin

The kit I received from Falcon Brassworks last November (see post #1 above) included the valve gear etch - you could ask Samantha if it is available separately.

I cut thin slivers off a brass tube using my 'lathe' - a 3/8" electric drill clamped in my bench vice.

I use a short piece of tubing projecting perhaps a 1/2" from the chuck and make a groove with a junior hack saw near the end. I then file the end of the tube so the groove is the thickness of the spectacle away from the end.

I then insert a drill shank into the tube and finish the cut with the saw. The drill shank prevents the spectacle flying off into oblivion and also prevents a burr on the inside which can be tough to remove.

If the tube is slightly too small, I slightly taper a drill shank and hammer it into the tube end to stretch it to the size I need before starting to cut.

This method works well with round spectacles but is useless for other shapes. Luckily I still have a couple of the Mainly Trains etches.

Huge price increase since the last time I purchased in 2014.

 

Hattons.JPG

 

Now £14 per pack.

 

Just ordered 2 packs. Thnx

Hornby's RRP in 2014 was £6.80 - 2018 RRP is £16.99. I wish my pension had increased that much in 4 years!

I still have a few Cooper Craft kits in stock including 4 3 packs of the GWR Benches.

http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/products.php?q=cooper+craft&s=5

Shipping to the UK for these small kits is quite inexpensive - usually CAD$12 for Small Packet Air (no tracking or insurance).

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Edit due to sale.

Spare parts for Bachmann USA models including Mavis are readily available on-line direct from Bachmann USA.

They will also do the repair if you mail it in - the details are on their website.

I have used this service several times and they are quick and reasonably priced although I do not know what the shipping cost to the UK would be as I am in Canada.

http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=mavis

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Consumers today want to see what they are buying (particularly if they haven't bought the product previously), cardboard prevents that unless the product is opened and handled - and consumers don't want to buy opened products.

 

Also, sealed plastic is preferred by retailers for theft prevention - cardboard can easily be opened and the item removed.

I don't disagree with the benefits of plastic - but why is the packaging so much bigger than it really needs to be? It is a full 4" longer than the turnout and 2" longer than the Code 100 equivalent.

This requires extra space for storage and extra cost for shipping as the plastic packaging is also a lot heavier than the old cardboard.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

What a wonderfully-natural model. My compliments. You've taken it much further than I'll take mine. 

 

May I ask, did you put on the little lubricator drive off the offside front crankpin, a feature different from the English D11s? 

 

It's nice to see observation of the Inverurie-style of lining the cabside. And the small BR device on the tender.

Thank you Tony,

I did make the parts for the lubricator drive but in the end left it off due to clearance problems with the footplate.

Malcolm Graeme was the only D11/2 that I ever saw so that was my reason for building the model.

Steve

Canada

I was taking some photos of the new bullhead turnouts for our website this morning and took this comparison shot of Peco's large right hand OO/HO products.
From top to bottom - Bullhead, Code 75 "Finescale", Code 100.

I also took this photo of the different packaging - why the extra large size for the Bullhead turnouts Peco? This adds to the cost of shipping - at least here in Canada.

Steve

Model Railway Imports
Canada

I see that the long crossing has Unifrogs. How would these be switched? a frog juicer perhaps? The existing code 75 FB has insulfrogs.

Peco also has Code 75 Electrofrog crossings - SLE193 Short and  SLE194 Long which require switching.

New for the Bullhead Range...

That is great news - what is the publication please?

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

An upgraded Hornby D49/2 4-4-0 Hunt would be very useful as they were to be found over most of the former NER lines.

What Brossard says - post #2.

Canadian Tire primer followed by Canadian Tire gloss black top coat - preferably same make/type as primer to avoid incompatibility issues.

Gloss so the decals go on better - you can finish coat with satin or matt varnish to get the final finish you want.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Hi Steve, I'm looking forward to following your build, I'm interested in one of these myself. Is it a new etch? I have heard that there may have been some dimensional inaccuracies on the old etch so you might want to check against a drawing? There are some excellent photos, information and a drawing of the loco in "Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway Locomotives" by Barry Lane and a drawing of the whole vehicle in "British Railcars" by David Jenkinson and Barry Lane.

 

Cheers

Simon

Hello Simon,

It will be some time before I get around to the build - I just made sure I got the etches while they were still available.

Thank you for the tips on the books - I found British Railcars on AbeBooks but the Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Locomotives book was a little too expensive.

I am not too worried about minor dimensional inaccuracies as long as it looks like a Hughes Railmotor when it is finished!

Cheers!

Steve