Retro_man

Hi Steve

 

Here you go Instructions. 

 

LK54.pdf

 

PM Sent

That was fast!

Thank you very much. That once again demonstrates the usefulness of RMweb and the helpfluness of its members!

Steve

Canada

 

There are only a couple of items in the range that interest me but I would think twice about purchasing them.  I did note that although Retro-man posted a pic of his etches which met with positive comments, I also noted that at £70+ he has started another thread asking for instructions. Bearing in mind that you can purchase a kit such as a J6 from London Rd models for just over £100 with full and comprehensive instructions they are to my mind a little overpriced (and yes I do know what the costs of etching are) so the comments that sparked the vitriol that led to the threads deletion were not unwarranted.

The etches may appear over priced compared to other complete kits available on the market, but when you consider the amount of time it would take to scratch build the same parts it seems quite reasonable to me. Other than a 3D printed model of the L&Y Railmotor which is not cheap either, as far as I know there is no other option for building this loco.

My goal was to obtain these etches now when available just in case they disappeared completely down the road and hopefully that is not what just happened!

Another RMweb member believes they may have the kit instructions and has kindly offered to scan them if located which will help me considerably, but if they are not available no worries - I will still build the kit - it will just take a bit longer.

UPDATE! Full instructions now obtained from RMwebber - Pete Harvey - thank you Pete!

Steve

Canada

Hornby Dublo EDL2

Steve

 

I have that kit in a box from Falcon bought 10 years ago I will check and see if I have instructions, if I have I will scan them and post on this thread for you.

Thank you Pete, that will be very helpful!

Steve

Having received the etchings from Falcon Brassworks this afternoon, I am now looking for the instructions.

I know Jidenco instructions are not the best and I will need to make many adjustments and alterations, however they may at least help me identify what some of the less obvious parts are.

Also if anyone has any other useful information it will be greatly appreciated.

I am aware some fittings are available from Shapeways.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Canada

Having received a PM from Samantha on the weekend confirming the etches for the L&Y Railmotor would be delivered - I was extremely pleased when the mailman delivered them (here in Canada) this afternoon!

I placed the order on the Falcon Brassworks website on October 25 2017 and paid by PayPal so it was only a month for delivery.

I would say that is excellent service considering the fact the etchings are produced to order and at least one week for the mail to get here.

The etchings are very crisp and have none of the discolouring that I have seen on previous Jidenco etches I have had.

I would like to compliment Samantha and her associates on the excellent service and product and hope she reconsiders closing down the website.

I have successfully built a Jidenco kit (Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0) previously so know exactly what to expect :-)

Steve

Canada

I take it the High Level kit includes back head etc?

 

Rob.

 The backhead is included in the High Level kit.

Steve

Canada

The High level chassis is for the Hornby Pug - you need the body and cylinder/slidebars.

I got mine from East Kent Models - sadly no longer around - the X3978 body and the X8566 cylinders.

As far as I know all the bodies are the same but each different livery has a different product code.

The wheels are Markits L&Y Pug wheels.

Gaugemaster have them in stock:

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=PA27&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Parkside+Dundas+PA27

Steve

HI All,

 

I have read rave reviews of the SL-108F track from Peco and it seems like a great looking track ... but I have a few questions please (complete novice here):

- the SL-108F seems to be all straight track (or am I wrong) - if so, then

- what is the difference between this track and other Peco Code 75 track, or

- what is the Peco code for other pieces of track (like curves, crossing, points, etc, etc)

 

Thanks for the help

 

Victor

Hi Victor - it is FLEXible track - you bend it to make your own curves.

There are no specific code 75 bullhead turnouts yet from Peco, but you could use standard (flat bottom) Peco code 75 turnouts or crossings.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Retro man

All right I am confused? ? ?

I thought and have new in boxes identical motors to fitted to your L & Y engine but there Airfix/MRRC 1001 but you call yours a mw1005 ? This isn't helping as I get confused enough with which is which as in

1001= XO4 but five pole

1003= Airfix 61Xx/14xx slight difference I know but very similar

10??= keyser mark 1/2 double ended between frame motor(slimeline)

????= high speed double ended for slot car but identical to above usely have clubman on the box!

Any one else help complete the list so we can all sing from the same sheet, even if it results in a wirring grind noise

Hi Graham,

I think you are correct and I have edited my post.

I thought it came in a box which said 1005 - but I could be wrong as the box was binned, or it could have been in the wrong box.

I do have another identical new in box motor which says Airfix/MRRC 1001

Thank you,

Steve

I used an Airfix/MRRC 1001 in my Cotswold L&Y 0-8-0 brass bar chassis and it runs really well with plenty of power.

The milled brass chassis block was great - when the connecting rods were fitted it rolled perfectly and the motor and gears meshed perfectly as well - no adjustments required.

However, adding brake gear which was not included in the kit, and finding a place for pickups was tricky...

I think

A modeller is anyone who can do anything with a model.

A collector is anyone who buys them to have a collection.

 

You can do both,

I have a good sized collection and I've done lots of models in my time.

They are both "model railway enthusiasts"...

But why do we have to have labels?

Retro man you may be able to solder a small length of phosphor bronze strip to the bit that is left. It will take a deft hand and a bit of effort but a effective repair is possible.

Thanks DougN - if it was my loco - I would have done that as I agree it would result in a perfectly good repair.

The loco belongs to a customer who has requested the replacement part, however I have suggested that we make the repair if we are unable to locate the part.

Steve

Would anyone going the etched chassis route for their Peckett have a spare chassis bottom/pickups (or even the entire chassis) available for sale?

One of my customers broke off a pickup from theirs and the part does not appear to be available from Hornby..

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Now could someone explain why enamels are banned from postage? Because its annoying to be cut off from a few paint ranges Id like to try.

 

I once found an online shop based in Texas that supplied Humbrol...wish I could find it again.

In the USA you can purchase all Humbrol paints on-line from http://airfix-usa.shptron.com/c/humbrol-paints

In Canada, you can purchase Humbrol Railway Acrylics and some enamels from us  - Model Railway Imports

http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/products.php?q=humbrol&s=5

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Only working to one side sometimes means the wires have been mixed up. The green wire is the common connection.

Steve

Replacements were sent out immediately to all retailers - without a special request. 

They were? We never received any.

Our customers didn't complain either, but that is a different story!

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

Well what is the best solder to use for whitemetal and brass?

Hi Steve,

I use 145 solder and a 25 watt iron for most brass construction. The 70 solder is for white metal.

http://www.modelrailwayimports.com/products.php?q=solder&s=1

All in stock and cheap shipping to the US.

The Comet guide is very useful and the tips by the other posters are bang on.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

What paints do I need to make a BR Crim & Cream coach to look like ones that Bachmann make? I am going to be using an airbrush. 

I am not aware any UK supplier who will ship Precision Paints to the USA which is unfortunate as they are very good.

Humbrol Railway Acrylics are available from Hornby/Airfix USA and the colours you need RC423 and RC424.

http://airfix-usa.shptron.com/c/humbrol-paints_acrylic-rail-colors?pp=8&pg=3

Not sure if they will exactly match Bachmann but I am not convinced Bachmann has it right either.

We also stock them here and can include them with other items you may need - solder, flux, wheels, etc.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

I'd always wanted an A1, and when the kit was announced, the wife kindly bought me one for Christmas that year.

I built it, having had no previous experience, some glue, some solder.

Extra parts were sprung buffers, scratch-built replacement cylinder drain cocks and pipes, and decent screw couplings.I remember having much fun filing out the Kings Cross name and number plates after cutting them out as close as possible. Mine was built as 60116 Hal O' the Wynd.

 

What I'd do different now:

Decent more prototypical wheels, (none available when I made mine).

A motor/gearbox combination, (ditto).

Better pickups.

If it's going to run, a better front bogie, some sideways control etc.

 

Best of luck, it's actually a nice kit.

I agree with all your recommendations.

On my first A1 build I found fitting the pickups around the brake gear and springs was difficult impossible and in the end i settled for plunger pickups and wipers on the tender wheels.

For subsequent builds I drilled the holes for the plungers before assembling the frames.

Steve

Canada

Holy crap, I did not expect you guys to be commenting on this post! Love your store! What other parts do you have, the only things I can recall that meant something were lamps and chain links? Also, is it possible for you guys to make custom route boards and nameplates? Or at least get any?

Hi Steven,

Building loco kits is how I enjoy the hobby so I have plenty of bits and pieces in stock (not all on the website) and can point you in the right direction for things we do not stock.

RMWeb is also a great resource as you are finding out!

A search for Markits on our website will bring up some useful bits.

Steve

Canada 

The J72 is a good choice and I have done the Mainly Trains chassis without any major problems.

If I was to do another J72, I would do the High Level Kits version as it comes with a a dedicated gear box and representation of the inside motion.

All the High Level gear boxes and kits I have built have run really nicely and the instructions are absolutely first rate.

BTW, the DJH instructions for the A1 are pretty vague - eg - "now attach parts 50 to 68" sort of thing with no real indication of where those parts go.

Steve

Link edited

Hi Steven,

The DJH A1 was the second or third kit I ever built and it turned out just fine as it has been well thought out. I have built 4 or 5 since then and the only thing I do differently now is add more detail.

I also have in stock low melt and 145 degree solder, flux and many other bits that you may want to add and we can also order Markits prototypical wheels if you want to make your model really special.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada

 UNIFROG
 

#6 DIAMOND CROSSING 
    

The PECO Streamline HO '83 Line' track system has been established for over 12 years as the modellers' first choice when selecting an accurate HO scale North American track system for their layouts. The opportunity has recently been taken to upgrade our #6 Diamond Crossing into the new UNIFROG format, this format effectively offering the features of both Insulfrog and Electrofrog, so giving the modeller the choice with how it's operated.

As supplied, the crossing operates as if it were an Insulfrog unit. All rails are live except for the separate frog tip and wing rails (see close-up image above), which are isolated. In this format the unit will operate quite satisfactorily, but if the modeller prefers to switch the polarity of the frog, then the pre-attached wires make it easy to link them to a changeover switch or microswitch. In either case, this crossing, as with all PECO turnouts and crossings, can be operated by either method for both analogue or digital systems, without any modifications to the track required!

The Electrofrog version of this crossing (SL-E8364) has already sold out, and we have just a few left of the original Insulfrogs in stock (SL-8364). The new Unifrog version replaces both of these versions. In stock now, and sold in singles.

SL-U8364  PECO Streamline HO '83 Line' #6 Diamond Crossing - Unifrog    

The above information recently received from Peco. It looks OK to me and avoids having to stock both insulfrog and electrofrog versions of the same unit.

Steve

Model Railway Imports

Canada