teaky

Nice work Jeff. Just a thought: wouldn't an area of setts that size need drainage channels? The stone setts still present in a number of streets when I was a lad used to have gutters a couple of setts wide that were laid slightly lower and angled to create the required shape.

Oh, and as a final item the BCO suggested a type of insulation that might be worth considering. I've tracked down the manufacturer's website and had a quick skim and it certainly looks worthy of consideration. Further research required before I commit to buying insulation. There are still things to do before I get to installing insulation, so that's fine. The insulation is called Hybris and made by a company called Actis. If anyone knows anything about this stuff, please let me know.

The BCO also made another comment regarding the ridge ventilation which he thought was insufficient. I think he's wrong but I'll have to go digging for information to demonstrate this. BTW I'm not feeling bad about this inspection. Oddly, it's nice to know there is someone ensuring things are done correctly. He's on my side. I trust the builders I am using but anyone unfortunate enough to engage some cowboy builders would benefit from this kind of protection. It's what I am paying for after all.

Today was also inspection day. The BCO turned up, expressed astonishment at the size of the steel beams, had a good look around the loft, asked the builders a few questions, commented on several things and said good a lot and then said he wasn't happy with the short posts between the steel beams and the rafters. We discussed this and I said I'd speak to the Structural Engineer. The BCO thought that the short posts wouldn't be strong enough and might disintegrate when subjected to a crushing load e.g. heavy snow. He suggested it might be necessary to fix ply plates and/or metal angle brackets to each side of the posts in order to tie them to the rafters more firmly. I phoned the Structural Engineer this afternoon and after he stopped laughing he explained that even if the timbers were smaller section than we have here and were 2.5m long they would still be up to the job they were being asked to do. I exchanged emails with him including photos and details of how the posts were fixed in place# and he confirmed in writing that it was all compliant with Building Regs. I have since forwarded a copy to Building Control. Hopefully that one's dealt with. # For anyone who is interested in such details the posts are the same timber as the rafters (150 x 75mm) and fixed with glue, two 80mm screws on each side driven diagonally down into the timber plate, a fifth screw driven from the front and a 120mm larger gauge screw driven up into the rafter via a drilled and countersunk hole so that at least 75mm is in the rafter.

An 'interesting' day today. It turned out that they completed all the noggings yesterday. The additional tile vents to provide ridge-level ventilation have been installed. I didn't manage to get a photo before it went dark but they are neat and tidy. These are to ventilate the gap between the felt and the insulation (see earlier posts). The replacement bend for the flue arrived this afternoon so I'll be able to get that connected at the weekend. The builder kindly cut the soil vent pipe which will allow me to finish connecting that too. Restraint straps have also gone in to tie the new rafters and the end walls together. The builders finished bricking up the steel beams. Largely a day of finishing things. All the builder's "inside" tasks are now complete and tomorrow will see them mixing mortar and repointing the verges. And whilst they are at it they will look at some additional repointing I asked them to do. Tomorrow should see most of this completed I think but it may run into Monday. I managed to finish fitting a couple of new doors inside which just need architrave cutting and fitting. These form the entrance to the converted loft and a slimmed down airing cupboard.

I have been considering an option of just boxing in the lower section once I know the exact route of the second soil vent pipe. This would create a narrow shelf. I like your idea though. Definitely worthy of further thought. That would probably be a neater solution. Thanks Stu.

I'm not sure they're proper builders. I caught them eating sandwiches with salad in followed by fruit. Surely no proper builder would be without some form of pastry?!

I've just remembered. The installation of the floor joists revealed that there is a discrepancy in the gap between the steels beams. They are further apart at one end than at the other by a whole 2mm !

All floor joists are now in. Just a few noggings to complete the task. Before (posted previously): After (less than half the loft is in shot but you get the idea): One of the soil vent pipes awaits completion. The flue is temporarily disconnected. When I went to adjust it last weekend the adjustable bend at the bottom end just fell apart. I'm not convinced I broke it and actually suspect it may have been like that from when the house was built. I looked at fixing it but it isn't that simple and since it is a safety critical component I've ordered a new bend. In case anyone is wondering, I asked the builders to leave the last of the original rafters/webs in place. I am going to add further battens and use this to form the frame for boxing in the soil pipes.

Interesting. Are you saying that all transactions via PayPal (using a credit card) would now be treated in the same way as a direct purchase from the vendor (using a credit card) and also offer the same protection?

I cannot get in the loft this evening because the original access hatch is now blocked and I have yet to cut a new one. Before the builders closed up the roof I went up and had a look. It was great to be able to stand on a sheet of flooring, on top of the joists, with most of the old webs out of the way and to get a real feeling for the size of the space and the amount of headroom there will be.

Floor joists and cutting webs Large wooden joists have gone in today, the ends of which sit on the bottom plates of the steel beams. These are doubled up around the opening for the stairs. I could have done this task myself but there are a couple of dozen joists plus noggings and at 40kg each the thought of manhandling each one up two flights of stairs and in through a small hatch prior to fitting wasn’t appealing and it is fairly swift job for three experienced builders, especially since the joists can be passed up the scaffolding and in via a hole in the roof. The roof itself is supported by the beefier rafters and the steel beams. The floor is supported by new joists between the steel beams. The steel beams transfer the load to the end walls. The horizontal parts of the original roof trusses now have no other job to do than to hold up the first floor ceiling (plaster, plasterboard, mesh and insulation) which they are perfectly capable of doing. The triangulating webs which were originally a key part of the structure of the roof can now be cut and the builders have been taking them out one at a time as they progress along the loft installing the floor joists. The builders are about three fifths of the way through this task so it will be finished tomorrow. I will take some photos then. At the lead builder's suggestion I have emailed the BCO and requested an inspection on Thursday.

Do you decorate SWMBO every Halloween? Doesn't she mind? I hope you don't make her stand outside.

All windows are in. Tile vents for soil vent pipes re-positioned and fitted. I've just been up and connected the flexible pipes to both of them and redirected the pipe on one of them. The other will need a pipe cutting and refitting which one of us will sort out tomorrow. Then a few brackets to secure them to the wall and that'll be another small job done.

Good point. When I did this for mine there was no increase in cost.

Yes, I ought to have re-read the OP. So, we know it is detached and brick but is it single brick, solid double brick, cavity; sitting on a concrete slab or proper foundations; attached to his neighbour's garage or just alongside; is the roof felted, tiled or metal; is there only the up-and-over door or a personnel door too?

"The bailiff can take no further action unless you are able to provide further information to re-issue the warrant (for example, giving a description and location of other goods which belong to the debtor)." Well, if he attends an exhibition, he'll have a stall and stock. A description could be "model railway kits and components" perhaps? Amazing that the law works this way. Does it also prevent the bailiff seizing a car or other vehicle parked on a domestic drive? Or does that not apply because it might be worth much more than the debt?

I think we need Great Western to clarify the structure of the garage, whether it is detached or not and how many doors there are. Perhaps even a photo if you're OK with doing that GW. Sealing up an existing up-and-over door might not be feasible if there's no other access route and even if there is another access door from the house then you'd be creating a room with no other escape route which is a fire hazard and, not surprisingly, in contravention of Building Regulations. (You get around this by having a window of the correct spec.)

I'm repeating/reinforcing what others have said already but I suggest you talk to Planning first in order to find out if you need Planning Permission or not. If you do, it will take you a while to get the necessary documentation together and get it through the process. Next talk to Building Control and just get their advice. In my experience they are very helpful and always willing to guide someone along the correct path because it is much easier for everyone. It's important to discuss what you have in mind with the Building Control Officer (BCO) in order to clarify what work you need to do up front. For example, some people fill in garage doors with brickwork and their garages don't have suitable foundations for this or it isn't clear and they have to dig down to the base of the foundations so that the BCO can inspect them. A lightweight infill probably won't encounter this problem but may not be what you want aesthetically. In your case, if the garage shares foundations with the house it may well be OK. Either way, don't take it for granted; ask the BCO and see what he/she advises. FYI It obviously depends on what electrical work you have in mind and on what you currently have but when I converted our garage a few years ago I did the work myself and none of it was "notifiable" because although I added additional sockets and switches there were no new circuits. However, if you are not comfortable with doing the work yourself and employ an electrician that will be academic. Whatever you do though just ask the BCO and he/she will confirm what you need. Don't skimp on the floor. It needs insulating just like the walls and ceiling. Fortunately, it's dead easy to do. Bear this in mind though when calculating headroom as you'll lose almost 150mm once you've put down carpet/flooring.

They won't stay like that. I wouldn't be able to stand it. The eaves will need cleaning once the scaffolding has gone and I'll be able to tweak things then.

I know you really want to see what the soffit vents look like in situ, so here you go.

It's all in the wiggle! Thanks for the tip Dave. I ascended the scaffolding prepared with additional kit (Allen key, extra drill bit) but in the end giving the drill a little wiggle as it went through and applying less upward pressure did the trick for the majority of the holes/discs. I have a three or four vents to fit once the scaffolding is out of the way but that's more-or-less job done on the eaves vents.

There are four slots but it was still a pain. I was using a bent nail but the Allen key is a good idea as it would provide better leverage. Thanks Tref.

I'll have to opt for wiggle in most cases due to the proximity of wall and scaffolding but I'll give that a go. I can see how that would work.

There may be some mileage in that idea. Thanks Stu. The discs are too tight a fit to just pull out but I might be able to use the wire to rotate the disc and reverse it up the central drill bit. I've only used hole cutters for walls, plasterboard ceilings and kitchen units before and not encountered this problem, so it took me by surprise. I'll have to give it further thought whilst I get on with something else.