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wirey33

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Posts posted by wirey33

  1. The type of layout will have a bearing on the boards and their split points. Clearly you don't want board joints in a complex station throat, but joins in a simple fiddle yard is not going to cause issues.

     

    A scale drawing of your planned layout will help you determine where the best splits will be and then you can start thinking about board lengths. This will also help you to "think out of the box" and not be drawn into all boards being the same length. 

     

     

     

    • Agree 3
  2. 21 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

    Not Lazy at all , just don't know what differences to look for , i lost interest in railways nearly 30 years ago and was only 13/14 when i first encountered the Scottish 37's , at that age you tend not to be looking at what differences there are apart from the obvious split/centre head code boxes and gangwayed/flushed noses

     

    I only came into model railways a couple of years ago and as i'm going to attempt to build an exhibition layout i wan't to get things right

     

    I was genuinely asking for a little assistance that's all

     

    OK, perhaps I missed the smiley off the end :-)

     

    However, I spent time and effort to compile the information that I posted and it appeared you ignored that and asked for a list of info that had already been provided.

     

    My post           “The list below are the locos that you can do a straight re-number job on..”

     

    Your post         “which would be a straight forward renumber and which would need mods?”

     

    See my point?

     

    I’m more than happy to share and discuss but I don’t want to feel like I’m a unpaid modellers consultancy service ;-)

  3.  

    So, I made a bit of a howler with my original list – I managed to excluded all the engines that subsequently went on to be refurbished, leaving just the ones that never got “bent”. My interest lies in the late BR / sectorisation era - so for example, I would never be interested in modelling 37028, it would always be 37505. I have a filter on the spreadsheet, hence all this batch of locos were turned off.

     

    I’ve updated the lists now but again, if anyone spots something amiss, please let me know.

     

  4. 1 hour ago, sulzer71 said:

    I picked up my 37026 on Saturday from Alex and planned on getting another to do as 027 , ideally i would like to do all 5 of the original blue 'Lochs' so who would know what the differences are between them? which would be a straight forward renumber and which would need mods? you all probably know which ones they are but for anyone who doesn't the list is below

     

    37012

    37026 (BOUGHT ALREADY)

    37027

    37043

    37081

     

    Theres also numerous other ones i'm interested in doing but i'll leave that list for another day :rofl_mini:

     

    Man, there are some lazy people around...

    • Agree 1
  5. 8 hours ago, wirey33 said:

    37078 - Roof rivets need to go, additional can’t rail grill dividers. 

     

    And if you’re modelling it in railfreight petroleum, a rather splendid piece of strapping on the No.1 end doors. 

     

    https://flic.kr/p/275cpcJ

     

    I'm actually going to correct myself here....for 37078, the roof rivets can stay; which makes this quite an easy conversion.

     

    And as addendum to the list above, the following are the same body shell as 37026, except for the RSH cantrail grills.

     

    37119* / 37001 / 37002 / 37003 / 37004 / 37005

    37069 / 37070  / 37071 / 37072 / 37076 / 37078

    37080 / 37081 / 37082 / 37083* / 37084 / 37085 / 37086 / 37088 / 37089

    37090 / 37093 / 37094 / 37095

     

    * Both 119 & 083 had plated ends and doors at various times in the BR blue / Sectorisation period – check your reference photos !!

     

     

     

     

  6. 5 hours ago, royaloak said:

    That picture shows it sitting on cast bogies not fabricated ones.

     

    Well spotted. As if the class of 308 didn't have enough bodyshell detail differences you had to start talking about bogies ;-)

     

    I'm not sure if Bachmann have ever done both versions of the bogies; cast and fabricated? Answers on a postcard... 

     

    Anyway, I'd class a bogie swap as "major modelling ", far more involved than a few cosmetic changes. And to be honest, 9/10 people wouldn't spot the difference anyway.

     

     

    • Agree 1
  7. Renumbering…..

     

    The list below are the locos that you can do a straight re-number job on. Basically these locos were Vulcan built, splitbox both ends, riveted roof, nose doors (not sealed panel) and un-refurbished.

     

    I haven’t concerned myself with square headlights, “Halfords” headlights, white stripes, orange stripes, fishes, dogs, sparrows etc. as these can be added with a little modelling; the locos in the list are essentially those locos with the same bodyshell as the MMRG model of 37026.

     

    (Disclaimer I – look at detailed photos of your chosen loco to be 100% sure before you start)

    (Disclaimer II – I’m happy to be corrected if something has slipped through the net)

     

     

    37006 / 37007 / 37009

    37010 / 37011 / 37012 / 37014 / 37015 / 37016 / 37017 / 37018

    37021 / 37022 / 37023 / 37026 / 37027 / 37028 / 37029

    37033 / 37034 / 37036 / 37037 / 37038 / 37039

    37040 / 37041 / 37044 / 37046 / 37048 / 37049

    37050 / 37051 / 37052 / 37054 / 37055 / 37056 / 37057 / 37059

    37060 / 37061 / 37063 / 37064 / 37065 / 37067

     

     

    Also worth mentioning 37037 and 37049 could also be renumbered as 37321 and 37322 in BR blue with large bodyside numbers but NOT large logo. 

    • Like 3
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    • Informative/Useful 2
  8. In this modern connected world, anyone who really wanted one of those models would be able to find it at a reasonable price online. Just a little research would save getting on for a £80+ over those prices.

     

    However, a fool and their money.....

     

     

    • Agree 1
  9. 19 hours ago, Campaman said:

    The other problem we have as modelers spraying is that on bigger items you would usually flat the primer back to give a smooth surface for the top coat, this is not easy or always possible on our models so we can end up with a rougher finish.

     

    Thinking about this.....

     

    Has anyone ever used a "sand-blast" airbrush ( similar to this https://www.everythingairbrush.com/badger-mini-sandblaster-model-260-1.html) to flat their primer or other layers? If the abrasive medium is fine enough, it could overcome the problem of flatting around small detail. Everything would need a damn good wash to remove the gritty residue, but could this be a solution?

     

    Thoughts?

    • Informative/Useful 2
  10. On 13/07/2019 at 22:50, autocoach said:

    Hornby-Rivarossi USA is back again at the NMRA National Train Show in Salt Lake City Utah. I am not there preferring to spend my hard urned dollars on product (UK and US)..misspelling intentional.  Is this a mis-allocation of their corporate resources given their competition in the North American market. Think about a half dozen savy competitors lead by Rapido.

     

    If their initial 50 foot box car offering is any indication, they are looking to match Bachmann USA in the toy department. (Side note, Bachmann USA has two personalities. They can make incredible models as can Bachmann Europe/UK, but they can also market stuff that has no relation to real railroad/railway hobbyists.)

     

     

     

    I believe the phrase is "Horses for Courses"

     

    Do you drive a Ford or a Ferrari ?

     

     

    • Like 1
  11. If anyone gets their hands on one of these latest versions, would they care to comment about the pick-up issues, the livery applications and any other info that would keep my wallet a bit fuller than I fear it may become?

     

     

    • Funny 1
  12. To be fair to Bachmann, they probably got wind of Heljan’s 45 intentions when they announced the O gauge version. It would take a while to dig out the old info from the model zone version, so although it feels like an overnight scrabble to announce something before Heljan’s announcement, I guess they’ve been on this for a while. 

     

    But they’re still too slow. This model, announced three years ago, and they would have cleaned up.

     

     

    • Agree 4
  13. 31 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

     

     

    Thanks for the info, but it seems funny that the initial offering states sound fitted and states the lower price, so to me if it is sound fitted as a secondhand arrival to Hattons then the higher price should be stated on the front page?

    Or am I reading too much into this, they could say every loco they offer is sound fitted and offer it at a lower price as a hook, just seems a bit of a sharp practice IMHO.

     

    Mike.

     

    You're reading too much into this.

     

    £180 gets you a sound fitted loco as described.

     

    • Agree 2
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  14. What are you trying to get off the track? Grease, oil, paint?

     

    Ultrasonic cleaning is very effective for intricate parts and I've heard of people use it to clean up white metal or brass kit parts etc.

     

    As Kiwi mentioned, the domestic units are OK for jewellery etc. and maybe a short piece of N gauge set track but anything bigger than a OO gauge wagon you'll need an industrial size bath (and a wallet to match.)

     

    Sounds like you might have a bath and some track; give it a go and let us know the results?

  15. Perhaps because the Bargain Hunters Mark 2 thread was the correct place for it ?

     

    Unless Bure Valley is actually in central Birmingham, in which case you, and your post, will have been consigned to the nine circles of hell from Dantes Inferno - a realm of those who have rejected spiritual values by yielding to bestial appetites or violence, or by perverting their human intellect to fraud or malice against their fellowmen or posting bargains from the West Midlands branch of Ian Allen.

     

    • Like 2
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