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Turin 60

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Posts posted by Turin 60

  1. Here are some shots of the progress made so far.

     

    A view of most of the basic chassis kit parts and the simple 20 thou brass chassis sides.  The High Level gearbox fret and gears is on the left.  I have noticed that my brass chassis side members are different to Gordon's.  I hope it works!  I used a wheelbase of 24.5mm, the same as the recommended 'Spud'.  The driven axle will be fixed and the other will pivot centrally hence the slot.

     

    attachicon.gifChassis parts.A.jpg

     

    The kit chassis sides and ends soldered together.  The footplate surface has been marked for cutting.  I drilled a series of holes along the edges and cut through with a heavy scalpel, filing up the edges afterwards.

     

    attachicon.gifParts Chassis Frame and Marked Footplate.A.jpg

     

    Footplate now has a hole cut in it to clear the mech, same size as the inside of the bonnet.  I now realise that I will have to cut away some of the cab front inside the bonnet and also extend the footplate hole into the cab floor.

     

    attachicon.gifFootplate with Hole.A.jpg

     

    Cab is now built (but roof not attached yet).  I used 5 min epoxy for this rather than solder to allow some ability to get the corners as exact as possible.  They are mitred which doesn't always work very well with white metal castings in my experience.  They never seem to be exactly right even with some 'adjustments' and the epoxy does also have a gap filling purpose.

     

    attachicon.gifCab and Footplate with Hole.A.jpg

     

    The bonnet is here shown 'dry assembled'.  Again the parts are mitred at the front and I think that some slight bodging may be required to get all the joints close.  (Please note that 'Bodgers' are actually skilled woodworkers and chairmakers so my use of the term may be a bit out of place here!)

     

    attachicon.gifCab, Footplate, Bonnet dry run.A.jpg

     

    Next job is to assemble the gearbox!

    Is not the "gearbox" to give 4 wheel drive?

     

    John.

  2. All these wonderful period figures and more to come. But I'm a bloke, uniforms and overalls I'm ok with. However ladies & gents apparel from the Edwardian period and the appropriate colours are a closed book to me, dammit I know nothing of todays fashions let alone 90 years ago!

     

    So, has anyone found any useful web sites or resources to point the ignorant such as myself in the correct direction for appropriate colour schemes for our little Edwardian folk.

     

    John.

  3. Good afternoon all.

     

    Please can I ask for your help with the following project?  I have just purchased the delightful Narrow Planet kit for a Baguley-Drewry shunter with a view to adding a short siding to my OO layout to suggest an MoD facility (such as Dean Hill) just off-scene.  Please can anybody advise me of any suitable wagon kits to accompany the loco?  NB  I am modelling early 1980s.  The photos I have seen on various web-sites all suggest that the wagons were predominantly flats of a fairly simple design:  I don't mind having a go at scratch-building, but if there is something suitable already then that would be preferable.  Alternatively, if scratch-building is the way forward, can anybody suggest a suitable source of underframe parts, axleboxes, etc?  Would any of the Parkside Dundas narrow gauge items be suitable?  As you can probably guess, narrow gauge is not my normal fare ( - I was distracted by the look of the little loco and the modelling possibilities it offers) so any and all advice would be welcome, please.  many thanks.

     

     

     

    Kind Regards,

     

    Paul

    RNAD vans now available for members of the 009 society as of this date 15/02/2013.

     

    John Bruce.

  4. Oh Dear, you've done it again. I do find your stuff facinating. well done, I will confess to a certain amount of imitation which I will illustrate as soon as I get some better photographs taken. Or if you don't mind really poor quality photographs visit Turin 60's blog and you might recognise a certain brake van.

     

    John

  5. Like most modellers i have numerous ( well far to many :nono: ) projects on the go mostly 1/2 finished for one reason or another. After a quick discussion with Steve aka PIxie this thread has been created to showcase whats on your 2mm workbench those small projects which do not require a full thread or blog entry, Which hopefully will help give you the impetus to finish that project

     

    attachicon.gifDSC_2654a.jpg

     

     

    Ultima D48 3d printed body with chassis wheels turned down just need to squeeze some more weight and squeeze a DCX76z chip in... :senile:

     

    attachicon.gifDSC_2656a.jpg

     

    attachicon.gifDSC_2658a.jpg

     

    Ford railcar Worsley etch, Mikroantriebe 4mm 1:144 motor gearbox.motor, this may be a step to ambitious with my limited skills :O

     

    So people whats on your work bench ? :paint:

    Nothing to do with 2mm modelling but may I ask how you got on with the Microantrieb motor/gearbox as I've been considering using one to rebuild a tiny ex P4 locomotive.

     

    John Bruce.

  6. John,

     

    The coupling on one end (can't remember which) will yield to a very fine cross point/Phillips screwdriver, the other end on my one came out with the assistance of an Xuron side cutter :O . I may take the rest out at a later date should I decide to disembowel the creature for maintenance purposes but it doesn't show unless you turn the engine upside down. Mine went to P4 with Ultrascales and ran even better than originally. Sweet wheels!

     

    HTH

     

    David

    Thanks for that David, I'll worry about the coupling mounts when it gets re-gauged!

     

    John.

  7. Have been running in my new Sentinel this weekend and have had only a quick look at the "works", now in due course it will be converted to EM gauge courtesy of those nice people at Ultrascale and I've read the instructions on how to do that. I'm wondering though how to get at the screws that hold the coupler units on? I can see them underneath but can't get straight onto them as the "motorised chassie" gets in the way, so I'm guessing that it's got to come out somehow. Has anyone out there done this, any help would be gratefully recieved. :scratchhead:

     

    John.

  8. There is a lot of sideways movement, which is annoying. Whilst the resin body casting is good, the bogie casting was awful. Adding a check rail on the ng ay be a better idea, thanks.

     

    I don't think code 100 rail will be deep enough on the sg section. Having pondered the problem last night i might be able to get away with soldering the sg check rail to a couple of well hidden screws, the glue some fake chairs on the public side ...

    Jack if it is of some use I used code 100 for my last O gauge project (Wantage Town) and all standard finescale wheel managed OK, even had a GWR "dukedog" run over it on one occasion!

    Reference the NG, you could always tighten up the gauge to avoid having to use "check rails", just a thought.

     

    John.

    • Like 2
  9. I have a Hornby Pug and it runs quite well although it could benefit from lower gearing in my opinion. It is sensitive to dirty track and wheels and does not like insulfrog points. Only having a small end-to-end layout I cannot really comment on its ability to haul a load but overall I am happy with it. I am thinking about adding some extra weight to it but have not done so as yet.

     

    Don't forget the replacement chassie kit from Highlevel, that'll solve your haulage and gearing problems!

     

    John.

    • Like 2
  10. At present it seems that thee and me are the only ones building modules ... and yours is the only one making good progress. Andy and I have had a chat and it was decided that it may be better if we try and get things together for next year as this year would be a little ambitious. So, 2012 here we come ...

    As I told Jack @ club tonight I have sketched out a basic plan for a simple module for the module group based on Fron Fraith halt on the Kerry branch. Gosh PECO track is going to look so heavy & serious!

     

    John.

  11. I think Perivale came & went in the early eighties, they were really a fine quality kit, I have one to build in the pile of unbuilt kits! As to Omega I also have a couple of chassie kits from them with a shop address in the old Tricorn centre in Portsmouth. Don't know any more than this I'm afraid.

     

    John.

  12. I actually use DG couplings, which aren't mentioned in your list. Theres a bit about them here:http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/westford/dgcouplings.htm

    The reasons I chose them over the Brigewood type were:

    1. Theres no commercial support fo9r the Bringewood type-you have to make them yourself. You can buy an etch for DGs.

    2. Ease of fitting: I mount them about 2mm below the bufferbeam, either on a square of plasticard stuck to the underside of the floor of 4w wagons, or on a wire bracket for bogie vehicles and locomitives with bogies

    3. I found it easier to manouvre themover the uncoupler magnets.

    The DGs are pretty unobtrusive. Have a look at the wagon shots in my gallery eg:http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/gallery/image/23376-d6723-approaches-diddington/

    Hi, I've had a look at your wagon photo's as above, Im curious what you do with the hoses & so on that clutter up diesle buffer beam. Don't these dangling appendages get in the way of the DG couplings?

     

    Yours John.

    • Like 1
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