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Wiring a Peco turntable


bgman

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Having installed my altered ( just cosmetics ) Peco turntable and attached wires to the main bus for the two deck tracks and a dcc decoder to operate the motor I would be interested to know if anyone has used Hex Frog Juicers, either the single units or larger 6 outlet unit to maintain polarity ?

I would really like to know if this works satisfactorily as the deck rotates without cutting the power to the rails / loco. The in / out roads are all isolated by the "air gap" as it rotates.

Am I correct in thinking that each rail would require a separate juicer to each rail ? Using the Juicer is my preferred method wired to the tabs which protrude from the underside of the deck if possible.

I have looked at various sites including Alan Gartners but can't seem to get my head around it at the moment so any help / advice would be most appreciated.

 

Cheers for now :)

 

Grahame

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Having read the instructions ( no comment!) I noticed the bottom paragraph which suggests pairing frog nos. 5 & 6 with the jumper on the board. By doing so I believe I may ? have solved my original question.

Before doing so can anyone confirm this is the working solution.

Part details of instructions attached below -

 

post-20303-0-85203500-1451154474_thumb.jpeg

 

Grahame

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No experience of Hex Juicers. I can only say how I did it. The bus wires are just as you describe to my TT.

There is only one access track to the TT, and 5 storage tracks opposite.

No problems with polarity. 

The approach road And the storage tracks are wired to the bus, (Storage Tracks Daisy Chained to each other 2 wires the bus ) as you say providing the TT track has the clearance you should have no shorts.

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Having read the instructions ( no comment!) I noticed the bottom paragraph which suggests pairing frog nos. 5 & 6 with the jumper on the board. By doing so I believe I may ? have solved my original question.

Before doing so can anyone confirm this is the working solution.

Part details of instructions attached below -

 

Grahame

Yes that is the correct solution for changing the phasing to each rail.

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Thank you for your replies. I was trying to eradicate the single dead spot to try and avoid lights or sound momentarily stopping as the t/t revolves through 180 deg. I think someone in the parish stated that it is something you have to live with ?

 

Cheers :)

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It sounds like you will have to change the pickup arrangement- but I can see how the two half-circles do away with the need to worry about the polarity with DC. Using a pair of frog juicer outputs or a reversing module isn't going to get rid of the dead spots, unfortunately.

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Hi

The Peco TT works with DCC without any alterations. But is does cause a loss of sounds and any loco lighting when the rotating bridge passes over the gaps in the split ring.  If you can live with this then it is a simple to use TT.

 

However, if you want your sounds and lights not to stop and restart etc then you will need to convert the TT rotating bridge rails to a twin contact system. This can be two full circles of copper PCB one inside the other and insulated from each other or use other suitable conducting material (2 x Rails etc) with some form of wiper from each rail pressing onto the copper or rail which then passes DCC power to the rotating TT rails. The use of a commercially made Slip Ring device is also another possibility? ..Typical example but they may need some sort of conversion to the drive method? https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://www.adafruit.com/images/1200x900/736-00.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.adafruit.com/product/736&h=900&w=1200&tbnid=NMNDlTIclDLQeM:&tbnh=137&tbnw=183&docid=Rvjz8EPEiJd_WM&itg=1&usg=__pwZOj_R3U0xMfzEJTvEoJbUcDwM=&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwi3hMXohIbKAhWDShQKHbtgDLkQ9QEIQDAA

With all these you will then need to use some form of high speed rail polarity matching/correcting device in the feed to the TT rails.  A Dual frog juicer is perhaps the cheapest and easiest of the fully automatic options or use a Reverse Loop Modules output to feed the TT bridge rails. Both should be so fast in their operation in flipping over the polarity of the TT rails to match the exit/entrance rails polarity any lights and sounds should remain working seamlessly.

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Hi

The Peco TT works with DCC without any alterations. But is does cause a loss of sounds and any loco lighting when the rotating bridge passes over the gaps in the split ring.  If you can live with this then it is a simple to use TT.

 

However, if you want your sounds and lights not to stop and restart etc then you will need to convert the TT rotating bridge rails to a twin contact system. This can be two full circles of copper PCB one inside the other and insulated from each other or use other suitable conducting material (2 x Rails etc) with some form of wiper from each rail pressing onto the copper or rail which then passes DCC power to the rotating TT rails. The use of a commercially made Slip Ring device is also another possibility? ..Typical example but they may need some sort of conversion to the drive method? https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https://www.adafruit.com/images/1200x900/736-00.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.adafruit.com/product/736&h=900&w=1200&tbnid=NMNDlTIclDLQeM:&tbnh=137&tbnw=183&docid=Rvjz8EPEiJd_WM&itg=1&usg=__pwZOj_R3U0xMfzEJTvEoJbUcDwM=&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwi3hMXohIbKAhWDShQKHbtgDLkQ9QEIQDAA

With all these you will then need to use some form of high speed rail polarity matching/correcting device in the feed to the TT rails.  A Dual frog juicer is perhaps the cheapest and easiest of the fully automatic options or use a Reverse Loop Modules output to feed the TT bridge rails. Both should be so fast in their operation in flipping over the polarity of the TT rails to match the exit/entrance rails polarity any lights and sounds should remain working seamlessly.

Hi Brian,

 

Thank you for that suggestion. I'd mused over your site and considered various ways in which to achieve what you have described ( or should that be " Drehscheibe"?) and also considered a split ring system too. You've been most helpful thank you.

 

Grahame

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Just a quick sketch to show basics for proposal to retaining the light/ sound to locos on the turntable......

 

 

post-20303-0-72038400-1451569505.jpeg

 

I think this should work !

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