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Little Hampton, New Layout, My First


Cutchie

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hello, this is my 1st layout and i am still pretty new at railway modelling :mellow:

 

my layout is on a 8 x 4 MDF board

i have some of the track laid and still some to be laid,

 

below is a picture of my tack plan, i haven't added any buildings to the plan, apart from the station

i would be happy to here your thoughts and any advice will be appreciated :D

 

thanks for viewing

 

speak soon

 

Daniel :D :D :D

 

post-7749-126922613805_thumb.jpg

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Hi Daniel

 

Thanks for taking the time to put up your track plan. It looks OK to me for a first build but may I make a few comments?

 

First you might want to consider how trains will enter your sidings; at present they are only provided with a connection trailing into the inner track which means entry can only be gained by reversing around the curve. You might find that causes problems of buffers locking and couplers over-riding particularly if the curve radius is as tight as it has to be on many layouts. Would it be possible to have a connection also coming in from the other end so that they were through sidings? I understand that you may have in mind to build a single-ended shed there so my idea would not be possible.

 

You should also take care when wiring that you wire, isolate and switch the power correctly. You have several potential shorts there where both loops can feed trains onto a track already powered for the opposite direction.

 

But as a basic concept for a layout with some variety to the operations (two tracks, three platform roads, reversals and overtaking possible in the station and the shed / yard area to shunt) it is a good starting plan.

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I'm assuming you are using OO, sectional track?

 

You might find you have problems on the right hand side - assuming you're following standard practice of your inner curve being second radius as most modern locos struggle with first radius, the outer track of 4th radius is going to be quite close to the edge of the board.

 

Also, as it's likely to take up the best part of 4ft with the curves at either end, add in the pointwork and you might find you don't quite have as much space for the platforms as you though you might have. What sort of trains were you planning on running, and what era? Or is it an 'anything goes' layout?

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I've spent a little time playing with XTrackCad and can't figure out how to fit all that on an 8ft board, sorry - unless you're happy with about 18 inch long platforms, of course.

 

I think it's the three way point junction end that's causing the problem.

 

Do you have your mind set on this trackplan and its features, or are you open to suggestions?

 

 

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Hi Daniel

 

I'd recommend downloading the demo version of Winrail so you can have a play around and see what you can really fit into the space you have available. Although it's classed as a demo. I've been using it for over 2 years without any restrictions and it's certainly helped me out.

Good luck with the plans.

 

Dave

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Hi

 

Good to see someone new enter the hobby :D

A tip though

If you havent already invested in any proper controllers go DCC,it may be more expensive but is far more rewarding,plus you can do away with isolating switches. ;) plus the wiring is more simple and easy to assemble.

Let us know if there are any problems and we can give you advice on sorting them :)

Kind regards

Lewis

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hey guys, thanks for all the tips and advice. here are the answers to some of your questions.

 

cromptonnut:

I'm assuming you are using OO, sectional track?

yes it will be OO track, the straights are flexible track with the outter curve 4th radius and the inner 3rd radius

 

Do you have your mind set on this trackplan and its features, or are you open to suggestions?

i do not have my mind dead set on this plan, i have very happy to take suggestions as i am still new to the hobby and i would like to learn as much as i can.

 

What sort of trains were you planning on running, and what era? Or is it an 'anything goes' layout?

It will be a modern era layout, i shall be using pendolino's and im currently saving for my first voyager. I also hope to run GWR rail tours :)

 

 

Rammy:

I'd recommend downloading the demo version of Winrail

firstly hello Dave, thanks for your advice, i am downloading Winrail as we speak lol, i shall keep you informed how i find using it :)

 

Arpleymodeller

DCC,it may be more expensive but is far more rewarding,plus you can do away with isolating switches

Hello lewis, i have been thinking about this for some time now, im just not sure which to go for, i like the EZ Control Dynamis system, and i like the guagemaster DCC Prodigy advance, the only thing i dont like about them is the price, i might put the savings for the Voyager on hold for now and invest in DCC, thanks for the advice :)

 

 

Thanks for all the help guys and i hope to hear from you all soon :) :D

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Hi again

 

for a DCC controller which is lowish in price go for the Hornby Elite.I believe hattons sell it for £126 which for its capabilities is cheap. ;)

It can programme 254 locos,has a large LCD screen and you can name and save loco addresses using their real numbers like '66200' etc. :)

Regards

Lewis

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Hi again

 

for a DCC controller which is lowish in price go for the Hornby Elite.I believe hattons sell it for £126 which for its capabilities is cheap. ;)

It can programme 254 locos,has a large LCD screen and you can name and save loco addresses using their real numbers like '66200' etc. :)

Regards

Lewis

 

Hello again,

 

i shall look into that then thanks, i think i have 80 pound saved up already im sure my mom will help me if i do some odd jobs around the house :D

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It's well worth the money, you can do so much for so much easier, and as what I call a pocket money modeller it is possible to do with pocket money as the controller is the most expensive bit and once you've got that decoders cost about £10 so not a lot on top of a loco really.

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Another tip

 

STAY clear of the Hornby R8249,cheap and nasty and only 500ma so not enough for large locos,you get what you pay for,I know you are like me,a modeller on a budget but try to get better decoders like bachmanns 36-553 which at £11 is cheap but at 1 amp is more powerful.Or you you could go for the lenz gold-expensive but well worth it-they preform effectively and effortlessly. :D

 

Regards

Lewis

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Hi Daniel

 

For £80-£100 you may be able to get a second hand voyager and a Hornby Select DCC controller?? I know a lot of people turn their nose up at the select, but its been a good introduction to DCC for me and when you can afford to upgrade you will be able to sell it on again and recover most of your money.

Just a thought.

 

Dave

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Hi guys heres some pictures i have took some are recent but there are some from when i first started to build my layout :D

thanks for looking

 

Daniel

post-7749-126931702277_thumb.jpg

post-7749-126931706292_thumb.jpg

post-7749-126931713771_thumb.jpg

post-7749-126931720248_thumb.jpg

post-7749-126931729886_thumb.jpg

post-7749-126931736037_thumb.jpg

 

there isn't much to look at but tell me what you think please :D

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Well Daniel I reckon thats a pretty good start mate.

On the subject of DCC I started on the Hornby Select ( Came with the trainset for my boy ) and upgraded to the Elite which

is a far better controller and I use TCS, Digitrax and Lenz decoders with it no hassles.

When I upgrade I shall go Roco Multi Maus so I can take it to the mates place and use it in his Lenz set up as an extra controller

Hope this helps

Cheers

Anthony

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welcome to the hobby,

 

I wouldn't touch Hornby decoders, both the ones I had failed fast - Bachmann are better I think.You could always start with a Bachmann EZ command , they are nice and cheap and you can have up to 9 DCC locos I think.

 

I have the original Gagemaster prodigy advance - its very good, but the handset doesn't take kindly to being dropped :(

 

Like your poster as well, very distracting I would think ;)

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welcome to the hobby,

 

I wouldn't touch Hornby decoders, both the ones I had failed fast - Bachmann are better I think.You could always start with a Bachmann EZ command , they are nice and cheap and you can have up to 9 DCC locos I think.

 

I have the original Gagemaster prodigy advance - its very good, but the handset doesn't take kindly to being dropped :(

 

Like your poster as well, very distracting I would think ;)

 

on the subject of Hornby decoders I've found them OK in things like Hornby's class 156 DMU which only has a small motor but the one I've put in my Vi-Trains 37 has resulted in disappointing running.

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If considering DCC, the NCE Powercab is a nice piece of starter kit and I believe it starts at about £100 - it's also expandable. Personally I used the Prodigy advance but as you say, it's not cheap.

 

Looking at the photos, have you changed your trackplan? (assuming the platforms were to go at the front of the board).

 

In addition, have you thought about what sort of scenic breaks you're going to employ, and if so - how you will get behind the backscene to the hidden part of the loop in case of derailment etc?

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Hi

 

Another quick hint ( i found out from here ) is , where you have taken out the sleepers to join the track and now have a gap ....... save the sleeper (or use a spare) and you can cut/file the rail ties off so you can slide the sleeper back under the rails .

 

 

Shaun .

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Hi

 

Another quick hint ( i found out from here ) is , where you have taken out the sleepers to join the track and now have a gap ....... save the sleeper (or use a spare) and you can cut/file the rail ties off so you can slide the sleeper back under the rails .

 

 

Shaun .

 

 

Hi,

 

If i may add to that, when joining the track there is no need to remove the sleepers, just use a knife/scalpal to remove the rail chairs ( the small plastic lugs 'clamping' the rails, there are 4 per sleeper, 1 each side of each rail) this detatches the rail from the sleeper allowing fishplates to be slid onto the rail with the sleeper is still attatched to the others by the webbing. This saves any need to glue individual sleepers in place and the spacing should be near enough right as it's still spaced by the webbing.

 

(Finally, for anyone doing N gauge with code 55 peco finescale, you do need to remove the sleepers at the ends when joining track as the rail is embedded in the sleeper, the gaps are then filled with the cosmetic sleepers peco sell seperately.)

 

BTW I don't think anyone should be telling anyone else that they have to go DCC, not on this forum anyway, it is an option but not the only option, conventional DC is still alive and well and i personally find it more interesting to operate 'the old way'. Ok DCC has its advantages with sound, lights etc especially when doing modern image, but on the other hand it is more expensive than DC so you have to decide whether it's worth it? Whatever you choose at the end of the day the decision is yours so don't let anyone tell you you HAVE to do YOUR layout any particular way. There is always more than one way to do things and there are plenty of knowledgable people on here that can offer advise, personal experiences, pro's/con's for products etc so don't hesitate to ask!

 

Hope this help, and good luck with the layout!

 

Best regards, Richard

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