3D printing class 25 parts .... Also class 20,37, 2mm and 7mm wagons and 1/32 bogies

[Atso]

Wow those look great! Looks like Shapeways has got the FUD issues largely sorted going on these - this is good as I've got some more stuff to order before the end of the year!

 

Keep up the good work!

[simon br blue]

I had some spare time today in the warm weather and managed to get a coat of primer on some of the recent prints.

 

The first couple of pics are of the Z gauge class 20 body. Most areas look good and the only rough patch (from the printing process/ support material) is a line on the roof. This model did have a problem - the buffers on the cab end didn't print properly - you might just be able to see in the photo that they look to have been compressed flat on the front of the bufferbeam - this was picked up in their QC inpection and I was contacted and given the option of a reprint or some money off- as it was only a test piece I went for the money. Some areas that have come out better than expected after the primer are the lights and horn grills and the bodyside grills. The cab window surrounds have also come out well. Looking at the model I think it was printed vertically with the cab back at the top

 

 

 

Next pics show the 2 N gauge class 25 cabs. Firstly the extra detail on the 25/1 shows up well. Both models have some rough patches- below the tail lights and on the roof below the horns. They also have a bit of layering visible on the cab sides below the windows, all of this could easily be sorted with a sand and repaint. The slight curved effect on the front of the 25/1 is odd as it's not really visible to the naked eye.

 

 

 

The N gauge class 25 fuel tanks also are easier to see now they've got a coat of paint on them. There is a rough area on the side of these from the support material but I'm unsure why as there isn't any thing in that area that would need support what ever the printing orientation. This part would benifit from some extra detailing and I will modify the part and try a reprint.

 

 

The last part I've got a pic of is the resized T gauge class 25.3 body. As mentioned before when I got a T gauge coach and track I noticed that the 25 body was smaller, after checking some measurements I resized it and got it printed again (the problem was that the original body was only a quick test to see what it would turn out like and I don't think I worked out the dimentions correctly as now the body is the correct width and height but is too long were as the original test was the correct length but not high or wide enough) - I will now have to shorten the body to the correct length. Anyway the small size increase has made a big difference to the detail levels. The tail lights are better defined as are the windows and horn grills.

 

 

[backofanenvelope]

All looks good Simon, what chassis are you going to use for Z cl20?

Tom

[simon br blue]

All looks good Simon, what chassis are you going to use for Z cl20?

Tom

 

Hi, I don't plan to motorise the class 20, it was only done as a test to see if the overall appearance was correct.

 

I've got a couple of bits on order at shapeways at the moment (they still have 2-3 weeks delay on the FUD material). I have a N gauge class 20 body.

 

 

I've also got a N gauge class 25.1 bodyshell on order.

 

 

If that prints ok I'll try a more detailed version and maybe a class 25.3.

 

 

 

One part I've left off the 25's at the moment is the main bodyside grill and the cantrail grills on the 25.3, this is because I don't think the fine mesh would print. I'm looking for somewhere to get very fine mesh from, If anyone knows a supplier with a good selection please let me know.

[Flood]

Simon

 

I'm sure I've missed something but are the 4mm scale class 25/3 cabs available to buy? If so, how do I order some?

 

Thanks

[bcnPete]

Kind of taken by that N class 25/1 myself.

 

Bachmann are dragging their heals redoing the N class 25, so you may have some interest if you make them available to buy...me for one

[simon br blue]

Simon

 

I'm sure I've missed something but are the 4mm scale class 25/3 cabs available to buy? If so, how do I order some?

 

Thanks

 

I did make some resin class 25.3 cab but they were not very good - detail wasn't very crisp and the fit wasn't perfect so I never offered them for sale. I've uploaded a (hopefully) better cab with more detail with a slight redesign around the cab door area and I will get it printed in FUD with the next order from shapeways.

 

 

If it fits the Bachmann body better then I'll make some castings - by which time Bachmann will probably have announced a updated version.

 

If the N gauge class 25.1 turns out ok I'll modify it to fit the farish class 24 chassis and then maybe try to sell them direct from shapeways.

 

 

The 7mm class 25.3 cab is also on the back burner at the moment as the Steve Beattie bodyshell is a different shape and width at each end.

[Pugsley]

The 7mm class 25.3 cab is also on the back burner at the moment as the Steve Beattie bodyshell is a different shape and width at each end.

You could always devise an etched body to fit between your cabs

[S.A.C Martin]

You could always devise an etched body to fit between your cabs

 

Could make the whole bodyshell, minus etched fittings such as grills, designed in. That's what I've been doing on my industrial saddletank, slowly but surely (but there I've designed dimples in the print for handrails etc)

[Waveydavey]

I'm also keen to buy a pair of 4mm 25/3 cabs but would prefer a set for a 24/1 and 25/0.

 

Cheers

 

David

[Etched Pixels]

Scalelink have a pretty good range of mesh patterns including very fine ones ideal for N.

 

Or you can get custom ones etched. If you can do 3D can you can do etched grille artwork !

[simon br blue]

Scalelink have a pretty good range of mesh patterns including very fine ones ideal for N.

 

Or you can get custom ones etched. If you can do 3D can you can do etched grille artwork !

 

I would like to have a go at some ethed parts but I don't think it can be done in blender. - Are there any simple 2d drawing programs that can export in a format that etching companies use?

[craigwelsh]

 

I would like to have a go at some ethed parts but I don't think it can be done in blender. - Are there any simple 2d drawing programs that can export in a format that etching companies use?

This thread has some suggestions:

http://www.rmweb.co....6-cad-software/

Etch companies usually take Autodesk dwg format or the Corel draw format. edit, just noted you already replied in that thread.. DoubleCAD should be alright as long as proper Autocad imports their attempt at dwg correctly or the etcher will have odd results.

 

You might want to talk to Brian Hanson at Shawplan about scale grilles and techniques for etching them as he has done some superb stuff in 4mm and 2mm for the cl37 for example.

Edited December 1, 2011 by craigwelsh

[simon br blue]

Hi latest update with the order delivered yesterday- but it's not very good (copy of what I posted on the shapeways forum) -

 

Hi I recieved some parts yesterday and there they have the rippling problem. I have emailed customer services but i'll post some pics on here to show the problem. Some are more effected than others and some only have the problem on part of the models. I have had 3 or 4 orders in FUD and have not seen this problem before.

The first pic shows a N gauge model loco where the finish is ok apart from a couple of areas (circled in red) where there is a rippling effect.

The second photo shows another N gauge loco that is unusable where the whole loco has the problem.

The final pic shows 2 T gauge models next to each other- the back model with the yellow end was printed with the last order and the front model was delivered yesterday- see the rippling on the roof and the rough area on the side.

 

As you can see the models have not printed very well. The class 20 might be usable if I sand the rough areas down but the class 25.1 is useless. I'm pleased with the finish of the bodyside of the 20 with the detail on the grills and the finish of the doors.

 

- I'll put up any replies from shapeways and if anyone has had the same problem with their order go onto their forum and post add your pics -

 

http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=7048&start=0

 

 

Another part I got Printed this time was a set of ploughs for the Euro class 66's. The part will need a 2nd version as I have not left enough room behind the bufferbeam where the 2 big support mounts are and they need trimming a bit so that the bufferbeam fit flush with the front of the Bachmann body. The plough needs a bit of a sand before I paint it - not sure how easy it will be to paint the wasp stipes on the plough and bottom of the body- any tips?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 10, 2011 by simon br blue

[Tricky-CRS]

That is all a bit worrying as I ordered a load of stuff yesterday, I hope they are not downgrading to catch up as I will not except what you have been supplied with.

[Kris]

A transfer might be the best way to put the stripes on Simon.

 

That rippling is a real shame.

[richbrummitt]

That second pictures is of a bad part. I haven't read the policy but they *might* offer a replacement? On what I had printed there was a kind of diagonal patterning but it is not so pronounced and I think (hope) it will almost completely disappear under paint because it is not that obvious. Not so with that 25 body though!

 

The plough looks smart. 3D printing is ideal for difficult shapes such as this.

[lyneux]

My latest order for FUD was also very badly affected with problems that I didn't see on previous prints. It looks similar to the problems that you have shown but the problem didn't appear on every model. I assumed that this is due to print direction but having seen your recent results, I think it might be more to do with problems with the machine.

 

The attached photos show some of the problems.

 

I raised an official complaint with Shapeways and am waiting to hear the result.

 

 

 

Edited December 12, 2011 by lyneux

[lyneux]

Now that I'm looking for it, I can see the "ripple problem" on the bogies printed in the Y direction too. Have a look at the middle photo (showing the bowing) and look particularly at the area of sprue in the middle of the picture holding the two spare dampers. The right damper shows very bad ripple effect.

[simon br blue]

I always find it easier to see any probelms if the model has a coat of paint on it. Sometime areas look like they are proud of the surface but when painted they disappear.

 

Bit of an update - I've got a reply from shapeways and they're going to do a reprint of the order.

 

I've also been working on the 7mm class 25.3 - I've managed to fit a couple of cabs onto the Steve Beattie body and added some more detail to the body and roof. The odd paint scheme is just because I used the cab to practice my airbrushing skills in the summer. I managed to get the cab to fit be warming it and squashing it. With a bit of filler and some plasticard with rivets pushed in the join isn't really noticable.

 

[Kris]

Good to hear they will reprint them Simon. Hopefully they will come out much better this time.

[simon br blue]

Good to hear they will reprint them Simon. Hopefully they will come out much better this time.

 

I hope they come out better than last time.

 

I've placed another order for a FUD 4mm class 25.3 cab (I have also placed an order with Imaterialise for the same cab to see what they are like) and I've ordered a WSF 7mm 25 bogie and mount use on the Steve Beattie body.

 

[simon br blue]

Hi the first of a couple of updates - I've recieved the reprint of the models I posted pics of earlier in the thread. The results are good and bad. Firstly the n gauge class 25 model that was useless before has come out alot better. As can be seen below the model closest is the reprint with the original behind.

 

 

I'm impressed with the level of detail on the side- the only slight problem is the marks left by the support material on the side above the grills - I guess from the marks that the body was printed upside down as the marks go up towards the roof.

 

 

Below is a pic of the body sitting on the Farish 24 chassis. It fits ok the only mod nedded will be to remove the bufferbeam fairing to allow the body to sit lower, I might try a more detailed reprint and make the cab slightly longer as the body is the right length to the steps below the cab doors but the bufferbeam sticks out more than the 25 cab.

 

 

The second model reprinted was far better the first time. The reprint has some very obvious diagonal lines on the side and has some damage to the side- the area where the door was fell out when the model was put in some warm water to wash it.

 

 

The original model below has a far better level of detail and is much smoother with only a small area with lines on it.

 

 

I have also added a pic of my most recent order that arrived after the reprint. The FUD 4mm class 25.3 model shows signs of the ripple effect. Sadly it is also not a good fit on the Bachmann 25 body- time for another try.

 

 

I've also done a bit more work on the original Farish class 25.3 body. I've added the second cab and the rain strip above the main grills and also put on a replacement etched roof grill (a B H Enterprises class 45 grill I picked up at Warley).

 

[Kris]

Massive improvement in the printing which is great to see.

[37114]

I have to admit to being really impressed with this work, it feels like we are on the edge of a revolution in model making if only the 3D printers can sort out the graining!