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7mm Pointwork


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Hi All

 

Having followed Hayfields p4 track threads, I thought I'd post some photo's of a few S7 points I've put together over the last three weeks (I am taking a month's holiday). All are from Exactoscale/C&L chairs, rail and ply sleepers on Templot templates.

 

First up, a diamond crossing:

post-1882-042444900 1290864568_thumb.jpg

 

The crossing and knuckle:

post-1882-039621400 1290864672_thumb.jpg

post-1882-009761600 1290864678_thumb.jpg

 

More to come!

 

Phil

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A couple more.

 

A comparison of two 1:5 turnouts, one with a 9ft switch and the other 12ft - both straight cut (loose heel switches):

post-1882-049963900 1290865682_thumb.jpg

 

The one on the left is one of two built for sidings and supposedly of lighter rail, hence wider sleeper spacing and 10in timbers.

 

This is the 12 ft switch:

post-1882-045559100 1290866129_thumb.jpg

 

 

One of two trap points:

post-1882-019232600 1290865963_thumb.jpg

 

If anyone is interested I'll describe how I put them together.

 

Phil

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Very nice work. The stretcher bars look the part. Best Wishes, Mick

 

Thanks Mick - amazing what you can do with a pair of bent nose pliers and a pencil sketch. I had to make a jig to solder them though (a bit of strip wood with two saw cuts to hold the blasted things upright).

 

Only another five to go.

 

Phil

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I pressume working in S7, you dont have to worry about insulating your stretchers? A problem in EM Gauge, but I have managed it with both "Modern" flat bars and also the earlier round ones. Mick.

 

If I were using DCC or DC yes I would have to isolate. Simply cutting a bit out of the stretcher bar and sleeving it would do it, but I'm aiming to use the Red Arrow system from A1 Micromotive (developed by Exactoscale I understand) which uses battery powered locos and 6v motors. Only selected plain track is electrified for battery charging (on the move, I hope). I'm also looking at the research from the MERG group for point and signal control but I don't know how much that might change things. It would help if I could understand the language they speak!

 

Phil

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Very nice looking point and crossing work there. Is one of the check rails on the crossing slightly further apart than others, or is it an optical illusion?

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Phil

 

They are looking very good, any reason for not staining the sleepers first.

 

The whole thing is going to be spray painted - and then covered in ash/gravel ballast so that the sleepers will not be seen in the yard, and only every fifth sleeper will be seen in the main line. I'm representing 1860/1880 LCDR, so far as I can, covering a partial re-laying of the main line in the later 1860s but leaving the yard/shed/turntable in the earlier style. I can't show the lighter weight of the rail used so it'll only be an impression at best.

 

Very nice looking point and crossing work there. Is one of the check rails on the crossing slightly further apart than others, or is it an optical illusion?

 

I'll check but the effective lengths look OK to the eye, they were all put in place with a check gauge. Can you point to which one in particular looks odd?

 

Thanks.

 

Phil

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The lower right hand one on this photo looks out when compared to the left hand one. As I said, it may just be an optical illusion caused by the camera angle.

 

post-1882-009761600%201290864678_thumb.jpg

 

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I can see what Kris means. It looks as though it is slightly wider and the gap twixt the running rail ( or is it the point rail) and the obtuse crossing a fraction narrower. When I first tried C+L parts (then under the Alan Gibson label) I found that rail could slide in the chairs and the chairs could distort if the gauges were pressed hard against the rail. I found that if I put in a brass screw under the frog and soldered the frog onto it it gave a firm starting point.

Don Willsmer

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Thanks chaps - it wasn't the check rail, it was the centre rail which had come adrift from the solder and was slightly out. All done now and the test vehicle runs sweetly though it, something very satisfying about tapping something back and forth through the point with just a soft clicking sound in the right places. :D

 

Thanks for the comment Don, I solder across important points (sorry!) onto a copperclad slip, you can see them on the photo's, so that critical clearances are maintained. Although the bond between sleeper and chair is tough, I don't trust it to hold everything, particularly after a test track 'unzipped' when a rail got caught at one end and I pulled.

 

Phil

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One last shot before I go back to work tomorrow and track building slows down, this is how what I've done so far fits (very roughly) together. 7mm ain't small!

 

post-1882-046371500 1291228249_thumb.jpg

 

This is what I'm aiming at:

 

post-1882-056334300 1291228846_thumb.png

 

Two crossovers still to do plus any amount of plain track. Oh, and a turntable, train shed, loco shed, good shed and signal box (over track of course) plus cassettes at the 'fiddle' end. :P

 

Luckily the boss is still on-side with it. :D

 

Phil

 

PS Ain't that the truth Kris.

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The interlaced sleepers on the pointwork are interesting. I'm not familiar with a prototype like that, what company / era is it representative of?

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I like your thinking, S7 and radio control. I was thinking of doing something similar if I ever built a layout, but I'd not power any track so I could try to use automatic signalling based on the trains shorting the track. I guess I'd need to have all the crossings isolated but that is about all.

 

The track looks great, you must be very pleased with the result.

 

Regards,

David.

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One day back at work and a day off! Mind you I have to work the weekend. :(

 

The next step, a crossover including one of the 1:5, 12ft right handers already built, from which part a rail has had to be removed so as to build a robust crossing 'V' for the following crossover. Moral? Check your design before ploughing on regardless. :rolleyes:

 

post-1882-045146200 1291404479_thumb.jpg

 

Craig. The loose heel is 'hinged' with an omega loop of phosphor bronze strip (Eileen's) soldered to the rail web, thusly (sorry a bit blurred - but you see what I've done):

 

post-1882-088429200 1291404938_thumb.jpg

 

Kris. It's my interpretation of what the Sittingbourne and Sheerness Company (worked by the LCDR) might have done building their siding points with 75lb rail in the very early 1860's. It's based on an LBSCR photo, but with 10in sleepers and a much wider timber spacing. Unless anyone can definitely show I'm wrong I'll go with it. Particularly as the sleepers won't be seen!

 

PWSlack - I'm sure my parents are in the front row. :lol:

 

Thanks David, yes I'm quietly chuffed, we'll see if the next step works though. I'm aiming to get the pointwork out of the way by the end of December.

 

Thanks everyone for the interest.

 

Phil

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Kris. It's my interpretation of what the Sittingbourne and Sheerness Company (worked by the LCDR) might have done building their siding points with 75lb rail in the very early 1860's. It's based on an LBSCR photo, but with 10in sleepers and a much wider timber spacing. Unless anyone can definitely show I'm wrong I'll go with it. Particularly as the sleepers won't be seen!

 

 

Phil

 

Thanks for that Phil. I suspect that you might get a few comments about those points should you take this on the road, to me they make the track more interesting.

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A day off, the Dearly Beloved went off to Poole shopping, so I took the opportunity to wield the butanone brush and made a start on the crossover:

 

post-1882-065013400 1291661598_thumb.jpg

 

There's a subtle curve towards the A end which took a lot of fettling. Luckily a scalpel readily separates the chairs from the sleepers (can't be done if soldering :P) and small adjustments can be made.

 

More later in the week.

 

Phil

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Hi Phil,

 

are you making up your own crossing vee's or buying them ready made? I ask as I've just started a crossover of my own, usign C+L parts, and was thinking of attempting to make my own vee's, which would be a first for me :blink:

 

regards,

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