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N15class

Entry posted by N15class in Handy hints

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Although this is for the A1 735 I thought it was a far better workshop post

The reasons for altering the buffers for the A1.

1) they sit very close th the footplate.

2) I could not see an easy fixing the heads

3) Did not want to solder them on assembled.

 

 

I had seen an article about making them selfcontained some time ago, so we have to try from memory as I for the life of me I can't remember where the article was. The idea is that a the head has a slot in it and a pin runs through it and the casing. So if interested please read on. The job should be done with a lathe and a bench drill, but as most of my kit is still in the UK it will be done by hand.

 

Firstly need to work out the travel of the head and then think about the hole location so that when the head is in the normal out position, the slot that will be cut in it is not visible. On these it is about 3mm of travel, I guessed that a 3mm slot would give 2mm of travel. More than enough, so the centre of the pin needed to be 2.5mm back from the front of the housing. The casings were scribed and centre poped and drilled 1mm dia. This is through both sides

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Next I put the head into the body.and use the newly drilled hole to mark the head for drillingI used the drill itself. This was then put in the vice and drilled all the way through 1mm again. I only drilled this hole so I did not cut the slot to deep.

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I then trimmed the shaft off 2mm down from the widest diameter and with my slitting disc I cut a slot down to the previously drilled hole. I then used a 1mm wire as a guide to try and keep everything straight whilst cutting.

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After this I reduced the length of the spiggot to 1mm and soldered a bit of scrap nickel silver etch over the end of the slot in the head, Tidied the head up and blacken it.

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I then had to deepen the hole in the body because the spring now needs more depth as it stops at the washer not the shouldr of the head. I then shortened the mounting spiggot to about a 1mm just to aid location to the bufferbeam.

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The buffer assembled as a unit. I will either solder or super glue the wire in just prior to painting the buffer beam, less chance of the spring being in water after cleaning that way

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Edited by N15class
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halfwit

Interesting idea. Would it be possible though, when drilling the buffer housing, to drill the hole 'blind', not all the way through both sides of the housing, enough for the wire to locate in both sides of the housing but only leaving one hole to fill? (I hope that makes sense!)

 

Paul.

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N15class

I had thought of that, but I as I was doing it by hand with the dremmel it was difficult to set the depth. If I could of mounted them in the piller drill I would of done.

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halfwit

Well, I hope that you get a full workshop set up soon because I'd like to see what ideas you come up with when you have access to machine tools!

 

Paul.

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N15class

I do too. The trouble here is the import duty a small lathe like the Emco one bought here is welll over a £1000. So it is down to getting my tools etc from England in baggage when we or friends family travel. so it a bit slow getiing everything over. Good thing is there is no duty on books.

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