MarcD Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Slater's do a small 3/16th motor its not cheep but it might fit. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted September 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 16, 2017 That's a neat little engine, the tall fireboxes on these victorian locos are distinctive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 IIRC they are known as Haystack fireboxes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Holliday Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 I think haystack fireboxes were the very high domed type, often four sided, as seen on the Furness Coppernob and GWR Firefly class, amongst others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 I am looking at the possibility that a friend might have a machine lathe and be able to use a parallel reamer to open up the 1/8" axle hole to 3/16" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 By the way, the description "White Strong and Flexible" is apt for this material. It took considerable work with a number of sharp knives to cut off the cab, and despite appearances, it was far more durable than anything I've ever seen. Just a shame that you don't get a better surface finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 We make most of our patterns and axle boxes out of the stuff, it takes paint very well and you get good detail Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 I've given the body a spray in Tamiya light grey primer. I am going to need something thicker - I'll try a can of the red oxide primer next. I have heard of "Plastic Filler Primer" but I would not know which is the best to try, though it has been suggested that the suitable ones come from automotive suppliers. I've given the body a spray in Tamiya light grey primer. I am going to need something thicker - I'll try a can of the red oxide primer next. I have heard of "Plastic Filler Primer" but I would not know which is the best to try, though it has been suggested that the suitable ones come from automotive suppliers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted September 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 20, 2017 Filler primer is available on ebay, its usually yellow. Works great for building up sandable layers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I heard back from the designer the other day. He's taking into consideration a long list of suggestions I have made with regards to the 7mm scale version. The one currently on Shapeways is a straight upsize of the 4mm scale version and consequently has introduced a few compromises/errors into the model print. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2018 So has anyone who ordered this 3D loco from Shapeways completed one yet? I would like to order the 7mm version. I know there's some problems with the print, but I'd still like to give it a go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 So has anyone who ordered this 3D loco from Shapeways completed one yet? I would like to order the 7mm version. I know there's some problems with the print, but I'd still like to give it a go. I bought the 7mm version in acrylic or whatever it's called but typically haven't had time or energy to do anything with it – it's not not high on my list of priorities. Nice finish though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I have not completed it. I was hoping to obtain a few suitable components such as a new chimney. The chassis also does not have the correct spacing in 7mm scale so I will have to scratch-build one, but I've been pretty pre-occupied with work and university. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted February 28, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) So was the chassis too wide or too narrow Martin? Edit update: I've just seen your post from 15th September, but I don't think those problems will affect me much at all. I use either 1/8th or 3mm axles on my coarse scale 'O' gauge locos and I always mount driving axles on a short subframe between the frames which also carries the motor. Very old school 'O' gauge constriction methods, but they work and don't give any problems. Again the narrow chassis will be fine since I'm using 'O' gauge wheels to Greenly standards. The brake gear will need to be cut off and moved, but that won't be a problem. My last loco used side rods hand filed from thickish aluminium with brass bushings, but others I did had side rods hand filed from sections cut from old nickel silver forks. All that's needed is a bit of patience and some decent sharp files. Being a woman of slender means has taught me to employ files and found materials to make things because in a word it's CHEAP. I haven't made any 0-6-0's yet so I don't know if my simple methods would work for those. The parts are for a Barclay I never finished because 'life' happened, but it shows what's possible with just a file and some drill bits. Edited February 28, 2018 by Annie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 The chassis is far too narrow - it is clearly just an up-sized 4mm chassis. It is actually to the point that it makes it night on impossible to fit a motor and gearbox.The other issue is the axle spacing (fore-and-aft) is wrong. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted March 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) I think a slender instrument motor with a gearhead would fit. For some reason I have a tendency to collect such things and I have a particular one in mind that should fit between the frames. Of course all this is academic until I can get hold of a 3D print myself and can have a look at it. Edited March 2, 2018 by Annie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I wouldn't bother with the chassis provided. I intend to scratch-build my own using 1" aluminium U-channel with plastikard cosmetic side frames. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted March 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2018 Good old aluminium 'U' channel. I've got some of that so if all else fails I'll be doing the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 The other option is to cut out the frames in sheet brass and use frame spacers which screw in from each side. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Interesting combination – latest hi-tech body married to oldest lo-tech underframe! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 It's sort of the way that we are doing our new locos. 3D printed top with a CAD drawn etched nickel sliver bolt together chassis. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 It's sort of the way that we are doing our new locos. 3D printed top with a CAD drawn etched nickel sliver bolt together chassis. Marc Marc 1I had envisaged something more like the old K's kits: two slabs of brass screwed into square metal spacers! Your version sounds considerably more sophisticated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 I'll post further on this in my own O Gauge thread in the 7mm Modelling section. After moving house a few times and finally settling in back with family, I found my loco with the wheels still in the 3-D printed chassis. It needs to be lowered by about 3-4mm, so I'll just make a new one out of brass or plastic-card. The rods came from an old Triang Nellie chassis I had lying around! 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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