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Duncan's 7mm Workbench - Connoisseur 4F Tender Cab


Fastdax
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You can have internal rocking compensation. I've done it it needs to be made though it needs a triangular shaped mount and shallow rocking beam.

 

Thanks Peter.

 

It seemed like a lot of faff for a simple wagon though. I can always retro-fit something (the joys of brass kits!) if it proves necessary.

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Gauge 0 Guild guidelines are 1g per mm. The Lowmac is 195mm over the buffers (I'm never sure whether to measure over the buffers or just the headstocks) but 180g is about in the right ballpark.

my mistake, I recall the ounce per inch / gramme per mm debate! 

 

I had in mind something about so many grammes per axle.  Anyway, it'll be fine, particularly if there's a touch of flexibility in the chassis.

 

 

best

Simon

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my mistake, I recall the ounce per inch / gramme per mm debate! 

 

I had in mind something about so many grammes per axle.  Anyway, it'll be fine, particularly if there's a touch of flexibility in the chassis.

 

 

It's fine pootling about my shunting plank. Not that there's much scope for testing top speeds or hump shunting on Offerston Quay!

 

I must get round to visiting the Sheffield Gauge 0 Guild chapter and their test track sometime ...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Deeley Dock Tank About Completed

 

The Deeley 0-4-0 Dock Tank is just about there now.

 

2017-10-20008.JPG.0ec8911f3f5e7be29094971c7bbb61d9.JPG

 

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There is no aperture at the rear of the left-hand tank where the bunker is filled up and no after-market steel sheet protecting the injector pipe on that side, as all the photos I've got show a mahoosive pile of coal in this area, hiding all below it.

 

2017-10-20009.JPG.166776db099ed0a2d9a421d79a161262.JPG

 

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I think the drawing pin buffer head overlays came out quite well. They resemble the pictures and drawings that I've got.

 

2017-10-20011.JPG.bd58b34019df3bc46540189bdfb1919d.JPG

 

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It needs a little more work on the cab toolboxes and brake handle to complete the interior. I made the cab roof removable on small clips to facilitate this.

 

I must order a set of plates, then it will be off to the paint booth for its finish of 1962 grubby unlined black.

 

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Deeley Dock Tank About Completed

 

The Deeley 0-4-0 Dock Tank is just about there now.

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 007.JPG

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 008.JPG

 

There is no aperture at the rear of the left-hand tank where the bunker is filled up and no after-market steel sheet protecting the injector pipe on that side, as all the photos I've got show a mahoosive pile of coal in this area, hiding all below it.

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 009.JPG

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 010.JPG

 

I think the drawing pin buffer head overlays came out quite well. They resemble the pictures and drawings that I've got.

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 011.JPG

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 012.JPG

 

attachicon.gif2017-10-20 013.JPG

 

It needs a little more work on the cab toolboxes and brake handle to complete the interior. I made the cab roof removable on small clips to facilitate this.

 

I must order a set of plates, then it will be off to the paint booth for its finish of 1962 grubby unlined black.

 

 

Lovely work on the dock tank.

They were such a characterful little loco, and hard working too!!

 

Jinty ;)

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Cab Details

 

The Deeley Dock Tank kit had a half-assed hearted attempt at the cab boxes. It supplied one small rectangular box to support the handbrake column whereas the prototype had two larger boxes with rounded corners - one for the handbrake column and one as a toolbox and somewhere to keep the spare gauge glasses.

 

On the right is the whitemetal box and on the left are the two plasticard replacements I knocked up.

 

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And in place in the cab:

 

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2017-10-24006.JPG.9d15714250f87c5b3a8375fe56ddcd76.JPG

 

I can't think what else I have to do to this loco ,,, apart from sound, lights, paint, decals, weathering, crew, coal ... :-)

 

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  • 1 month later...

Ian Kirk LMS Push Pull Coaches

 

At the Doncaster show last year I bought a couple of Ian Kirk 7mm coach kits. These are 57' non-gangwayed LMS Period II - a 1st/3rd Composite and a Brake Third.

 

My plan is to turn the brake third into an ex-LMS driving trailer and make a 2-coach push-pull set to work with my new Dapol Jinty. My Jenkinson book ("Historic Carriage Drawings Volume 2 - LMS") tells me that these coaches lasted until 1964 - still just in service in my 1962 time-frame.

 

You get what you pay for with these kits. Don't expect a "shake the box" offering. The detail is basic but can easily be added to or changed to suit the level of detail you want.

 

I made up one side of the composite coach first, using a straight-edge to keep the tops of the panels level (as the bottoms are a bit ragged).

 

The side is backed with a couple of strips of 1.5mm (60 thou) plasticard, above and below the windows.

 

2017-10-28001.JPG.d9d9ad02f4a8632143b678e9156e336c.JPG

 

Only when the side was glued up did I spot that the doors were of a slightly thicker material than the window modules, making the doors stand proud of the sides.

 

2017-10-28002.JPG.bdc2e813fbef0818bd35b9b755f3c286.JPG

 

The handle and buffer stop detail is also a bit basic, and there are no moulded grab rails. Also the ventilators above the doors look a bit wrong, so I think the solution is to sand all details and raised bits off the side and replace with wire and plasticard scratch-built replacements.

 

2017-10-28003.JPG.67684f8bc6c5f8bbebec648c0591afd9.JPG

 

This will probably end in disaster so please keep your fingers crossed!

 

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Ian Kirk LMS Push Pull Coaches
 
Well that didn't go too badly.
 
I used 120 grit paper in my random-orbit palm sander, followed by 240 grit, followed by a hand sanding using 280 grit flexible pads.
 
The coach side is now beautifully smooth, even if some of the window frame detail has been lost. I could re-scribe this or just leave it.
 
I made sure the door joints were still present by carefully scoring with a scalpel.
 
In this photo I have left it dusty so that you can see the door joints. It's now had a trip through the ultrasonic cleaner and is drying.

 

2017-12-03002.JPG.e6e0b5594721d09574a7b2829d66dd28.JPG

 

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On 02/12/2017 at 16:44, brossard said:

Duncan, I assume you'll reinstate the lost detail.  I'm working on a trio of Kirk Gresleys (well, I should be but they're on hold while I get on with other things), my experience might be of interest to you:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116068-ian-kirk-7mm-gresley-52-6-corridor-coaches/

 

John

 

John, yes absolutely!

 

I made a little jig to allow accurate drilling of holes for the T-handle and grab rails.

 

2017-12-02002.JPG.3b31e42dca4f3a4740c9fe04bd5bac43.JPG

 

The above photo is a view of the back. The rectangle with rounded corners is a tight fit into a door's window aperture. The wooden rails keep it aligned with the top and bottom of the coach side.

 

It's then a simple matter of clicking it into a window aperture, holding it down firmly and drilling through  (1.0mm for the T-handle and 0.45mm for the grab rail).

 

Here's the jig in position from the front:

 

2017-12-02001.JPG.dfe1f5d54991d656454d945b248dcdd9.JPG

 

This is the result, the same for every door. Since there are 30 doors to do, it saves quite a bit of marking out.

 

2017-12-02003.JPG.3d1f61e2447403232cc7ceacf7fafe7c.JPG

 

I need to work out the position of the bump stops and drill more holes in the jig for them, then drill the sides. Luckily I thought ahead and made the jig big enough to cover the position of the bump stops.

 

Thanks for the link. How are you getting on with your build?

 

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John, yes absolutely!

 

I made a little jig to allow accurate drilling of holes for the T-handle and grab rails.

 

attachicon.gif2017-12-02 002.JPG

 

The above photo is a view of the back. The rectangle with rounded corners is a tight fit into a door's window aperture. The wooden rails keep it aligned with the top and bottom of the coach side.

 

It's then a simple matter of clicking it into a window aperture, holding it down firmly and drilling through  (1.0mm for the T-handle and 0.45mm for the grab rail).

 

Here's the jig in position from the front:

 

attachicon.gif2017-12-02 001.JPG

 

This is the result, the same for every door. Since there are 30 doors to do, it saves quite a bit of marking out.

 

attachicon.gif2017-12-02 003.JPG

 

I need to work out the position of the bump stops and drill more holes in the jig for them, then drill the sides. Luckily I thought ahead and made the jig big enough to cover the position of the bump stops.

 

Thanks for the link. How are you getting on with your build?

 

 

Smashing idea on the template, I've looked at the Kirk Midland stock, but much prefer working in brass (Sidelines) although there is a massive difference in cost, which makes the Kirk stock great value for money.

I did happen on the fact that Premier Components do complete bogies for LMS stock in whitemetal and are only £20 a pair.

 

I keep looking back to your Deely Dock Tank and was reminded of it once again whilst i was thumbing through my Essery and Jenkinson books yesterday at work, trying to find out more about the Swansea Push-Pull Jinties.  There were a good few pictures of the little engines during Midland/LMS days.

You've made an excellent job of your model.

 

Jinty ;)

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Smashing idea on the template, I've looked at the Kirk Midland stock, but much prefer working in brass (Sidelines) although there is a massive difference in cost, which makes the Kirk stock great value for money.

I did happen on the fact that Premier Components do complete bogies for LMS stock in whitemetal and are only £20 a pair.

 

I keep looking back to your Deely Dock Tank and was reminded of it once again whilst i was thumbing through my Essery and Jenkinson books yesterday at work, trying to find out more about the Swansea Push-Pull Jinties.  There were a good few pictures of the little engines during Midland/LMS days.

You've made an excellent job of your model.

 

Jinty ;)

 

Thanks Jinty!

 

I did get two sets of Wayoh bogies for the Kirk coaches but was slightly disappointed when they turned up with resin sides, not whitemetal. These are such light models that they will need some weight adding and I'd rather add it low down on the bogies than in the body shell.

 

It's interesting that Premier do RTR bogies so cheap. It's a pity that their ordering system is so primitive. Cheques or Postal Orders? Really? It costs little to set up a PayPal account and tell people to transfer cash into it, or quote bank details for an instant transfer. Messing about with envelopes, stamps, handwriting etc. makes me want to not bother.

 

Rant over.

 

Maybe I'll fit the Wayoh bogies and, if I'm still not happy, see if Premier are at Doncaster in June.

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Duncan, notwithstanding the trading terms you refer to, you could drop them an email (if they have such a thing) and test the waters regarding PayPal.  I've done that once or twice with other suppliers and got a positive response.

 

Yes, Kirk coach parts packs (not kits) are good value but I did spend rather a lot for the other bought in bits.  I don't think you can turn these into a complete coach without buying extras.  The extent of buying in is entirely up to the builder depending on the level of detail desired.

 

John

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Thanks Jinty!

 

I did get two sets of Wayoh bogies for the Kirk coaches but was slightly disappointed when they turned up with resin sides, not whitemetal. These are such light models that they will need some weight adding and I'd rather add it low down on the bogies than in the body shell.

 

It's interesting that Premier do RTR bogies so cheap. It's a pity that their ordering system is so primitive. Cheques or Postal Orders? Really? It costs little to set up a PayPal account and tell people to transfer cash into it, or quote bank details for an instant transfer. Messing about with envelopes, stamps, handwriting etc. makes me want to not bother.

 

Rant over.

 

Maybe I'll fit the Wayoh bogies and, if I'm still not happy, see if Premier are at Doncaster in June.

Bill ( Premier ), is a lovely guy but he doesn't do anything to modern, if you want the item bad enough then try and be old fashioned for once. ; )

 

Martyn.

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Bill ( Premier ), is a lovely guy but he doesn't do anything to modern, if you want the item bad enough then try and be old fashioned for once. ; )

 

I'm sure he is a lovely guy and I really do like his products.

 

Sorry if I came on a bit strong.

 

Because of the hobby we are in, we are no doubt all slightly old fashioned to one degree or another :-)

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You can certainly be confident that what you get from Bill will be of excellent quality. I have one of his Canon motor & gearbox sets in my Dukedog, and am very pleased with the performance. I’ve used his rods on most of my kit-builds too.

 

The couplings benefit from a touch of the file to improve their shape, and the screw couplings need a pliers-squeeze to prevent them unscrewing in service. And, pet gripe, they need to be coloured to look like steel, because brass hooks are not prototypical!

 

Best

Simon

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I keep looking back to your Deely Dock Tank and was reminded of it once again whilst i was thumbing through my Essery and Jenkinson books yesterday at work, trying to find out more about the Swansea Push-Pull Jinties.  There were a good few pictures of the little engines during Midland/LMS days.

 

You might want to look at The Swansea Vale Railway by John Miles et al, pub Lightmoor Press

Dave

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Ian Kirk Coaches

 

I felt another jig coming on. Not a little dance, but a device to help me position the door vents which I had sanded off and therefore had to replace.

 

2017-12-04002.JPG.592e6527aab8ef43d9f6832f0df49f82.JPG

 

The door vents are cut from a strip of 3.5mm x 1.0mm plasticard with the edges rounded over. Measuring the drawings, 10mm seemed the right length.

 

The jig is positioned over a door and centred by eye, then the vent is placed into it and held down (tip of scalpel) while the jig is removed. Then a dab of MEK holds the vent in place.

 

2017-12-04001.JPG.ef43c45655f5ff8d41ddb7877509b8d7.JPG

 

You can also see here the holes for the door bump stops, made using the previous jig.

 

Just the hinges to apply now and I can blast the sides with primer to see how they will look.

 

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Duncan, iirc, Slaters do moulded door vents, with some horizontal “slat” detail. You can probably carve it on, if your prototype needs it.

 

Loving the jigs. It’s just the best approach to repetitive work.

 

Best

Simon

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Duncan, iirc, Slaters do moulded door vents, with some horizontal “slat” detail. You can probably carve it on, if your prototype needs it.

 

Loving the jigs. It’s just the best approach to repetitive work.

 

Thanks Simon.

 

I did have a look at Slaters but I couldn't spot any 7mm door vents. From pictures, the vents on these coaches are quite flat and plain, not the slatted type. so simple plasticard shapes will do quite well.

 

I do have a pile of Slater's coach seats ready to fit when I get as far as the interior.

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