Jump to content
 

Hello from Plymouth!


Pullman65

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Being new here, I'd better give some background. I collected and modelled 'N' gauge from the mid 80s until recently. Initially this was Continental, as I was 'taken' by the Austrian and German railways and scenery. It was also cheaper to pick up there too. From the 90s to recent(ish) I collected UK pattern but they still looked good against my Alpine setting. More recently I switched to slot cars - but that is another story.

 

However, due to the detail, range of subjects, features and control options now available in 00, I now find myself back where I started in the mid 60s. I had as a boy, and still have, my Class 8 Shunter and 3 car Blue Pullman. These are all individually Triang boxed. I know the prices paid for the Pullman units (52 shillings for the power car and 12 shillings and sixpence each, for the parlour and dummy power car). That may determine their year of purchase (I think 1964 or 65). I used to be enthralled by the Pullman at Nottingham Victoria Station (long since gone).

 

Rightly or wrongly, I've just purchased an EZ Command Dynamis, some track and a Bachmann 31-117DC Standard 4MT 4-6-0 75074 (all yet to arrive) and dug out and serviced my Pullman power car, which runs very nicely, though not tested during the last 15 years. So, being chuffed with my Blue Pullman working, I hammered your forums and others to see if anybody knows the feasibility of fitting DCC to her, and if so, which decoder would work best with the Dynamis. I could not find any answers, but maybe posed the questions incorrectly.

 

I'm sorry if this has been covered in a post anywhere, and I've missed it, but at least it kicks me off with an introduction.

 

And you do seem to be a helpful lot!

 

Rob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob

Welcome to RMweb

Sorry I can't help you with the Blue Pullman, but regards your question about decoders v.v. the Dynamis.......

 

......which decoder would work best with the Dynamis.

It's not a question of which decoder would work best with your DCC system; they all should if they are correctly manufactured to the correct DCC standards.

A better question would be what decoder would work best with the particular model and/or its particular motor.

 

Assuming the BP can easily be hardwired to accept a decoder, may I suggest you go for a mid-priced model from TCS or Lenz.

 

p.s. the old Hornby 08 is a hideous plastic lump. Bin it or put it on eBay (worth about 10p). There are superb modern versions available from both Bachmann and Hornby. wink.gif

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Another option for the Blue Pullman is to replace the motor bogie with a new one. I believe Hollywood Foundry (see adverts at top of this forum) do a unit espcially to suit (no connection, not even a customer), which might be both a better runner and adaptable to DCC.

HTH

 

Stu

 

Edit : see here

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

 

As the old motor runs so well, I really do fancy having a go at modifying it, rather than replacing it, though the Hollywood Foundry site and articles are very interesting and informative.

 

Ron Ron Ron, do you have any preference between Lenz and TCS, as at the moment I'm green on decoders. I know that my Dynamis is compliant with the standards. What determines the choice of the number of pins on these things, but I presume it is irrelevant on a non-DCC model anyway.

 

The Class 8 is in the loft, and may stay there yet. Don't recall using it much.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have fitted a TCS T1 to a couple of triang Blue pullmans they work fine of cousre they have to be hard wired

 

The 2 i fitted them to were re wheeled i dont know if the old serated wheels will have any bad effect on running or not.

 

The best option really is a new motor bogie as suggested earlier

 

Brian

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have fitted a TCS T1 to a couple of triang Blue pullmans they work fine of cousre they have to be hard wired

 

The 2 i fitted them to were re wheeled i dont know if the old serated wheels will have any bad effect on running or not.

 

The best option really is a new motor bogie as suggested earlier

 

Brian

 

Brian,

 

Thanks, it's good to know it can be done. Have you any photos of your installation/fitment?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to RMWeb Rob,

 

You are going to need a decoder capable of running on at least 1 Amp - the old Triang motor bogies can draw a fair bit of current and cheaper decoders will soon cook I'm afraid.

 

TCS T1 is an excellent decoder having a spec of 1.3A continuous and 2A stall (plenty) and will not break the bank.

 

 

To fit the decoder I do the following:

 

- There are 2 brass clips (motor terminals) pressing against the motor armature, held in place by a springy wire and one of them should be insulated by a length of tube. Take this off and cut it in half then put the two lengths over both ends of the springy wire. This isolates the motor completely - you could use heatshrink tube if you prefer and have some to hand.

 

- One of the motor terminals has a wire soldered to it - usually red but not always. You need to detach this from the terminal then solder the decoder orange and grey decoder wires to the motor terminals.

 

- Solder the red decoder wire to the wire you detached previously from the motor terminal (insulate the join with heatshrink) before soldering the black decoder wire to the brass strip which carries power from the chassis to the springy wire.

 

- Finally, out with the multimeter and check there are no shorts before popping onto the programming track and checking the installation, then onto the layout and away.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ron Ron Ron, do you have any preference between Lenz and TCS, as at the moment I'm green on decoders.

I haven't tried TCS yet, but they have a very good reputation, both on here and around other forums.

Their "Goof Proof" warranty is a big selling point too.

I may be tempted by their new 21-pin EU621 decoder next time I'm buying (6 functions and RailCom fitted).

The other guys (above) have recommended them too.

 

I've used quite a few Lenz decoders. They are also top notch and very well regarded.

The one you may want to look at is the "Standard Plus", their cheapest model.

 

 

What determines the choice of the number of pins on these things, but I presume it is irrelevant on a non-DCC model anyway.

Non-DCC models require hard wiring, so you need a decoder with a wires only harness, or snip off the plug at the end of the harness to get the wire only.

"Direct" decoders are probably best avoided as they're designed to plug straight into a socket already fitted inside the loco (i.e. they have no wires).

 

DCC ready locos will have a socket, ready to accept a 6, 8 or 21 pin decoder. Just plug in and play.

 

 

 

As to what determines the number of pins....

 

6-pin - due to space constraints and limited functions, mostly used in N-gauge. Some smaller 00/H0 models also use them (due to very tight space available in the loco).

8-pin - the standard for many years, but limited in how many connections for functions.

 

In an attempt to introduce a new interface with more pins, to support the growing number of functions appearing on locos, two designs emerged.

Before a decision could be agreed upon, European manufacturers broke ranks and introduced the 21-pin MTC connector.

This has since been formally adopted by the NMRA.

 

Eventually a new NMRA interface was agreed, to replace the previous 6 & 8 pin (and ultimately the 21-pin) arrangements.

The PluX connector will allow 8, 16 & 22 pin decoders to be fitted into a universal PluX socket that will come in all 3 sizes.

This means if your loco has a PluX22 socket, it will accept a Plux8, Plux16 or Plux22 decoder.

If your loco has a PluX16 socket, it will accept a PluX8 or PluX16 decoder.

 

Does that help?

 

Ron

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Another option for the Blue Pullman is to replace the motor bogie with a new one. I believe Hollywood Foundry (see adverts at top of this forum) do a unit espcially to suit (no connection, not even a customer), which might be both a better runner and adaptable to DCC.

HTH

 

Stu

 

Edit : see here

stubby, have you an internet,site, email address or phone number that could help?

ian.sparks

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Hi,

Finally got around to finding my TCS T1 (put away too well for safe keeping, as I've not been near my railway project for two months, due to bereavements) and fitted it to the Blue Pullman tonight. Works very well so far and loco can crawl at a pace unheard of when it was DC. Only tried on a circle of track so far, and joints not even soldered (as yet). Very nice on 128 speed increments. I know there will be a possible problem when I try it over points, but I'll sort that when I get to it.:)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there, from a "Janner" now living in Australia.

 

Glad to hear that the Blue Pullman is running well. I did a conversion to DCC a few years ago - if you have problems with loss of electrical contact on points you can improve the running by putting pickups on the trailing wheels.

I note you comment "joints not even soldered yet" my advice is don't - unless you are running your trains in a room where the temperature is constant. Electrical problems, if they occur, are best remedied by soldering additional feeder wires to the track.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...