I’ve been inspired by a random purchase of some APT lights on eBay and coming across this very motivating thread http://www.rmweb.co....ssorted-others/ to rejoin RMWeb. I’ve long forgotten my old account details, hence the new user name.
A few years ago I got two tired APT’s to add to one I’ve had since childhood, one courtesy a user from here actually. I also pulled together enough bits to fix the broken or missing parts across the 3 sets, a sheet of etched window inserts from Southgate Works (again a very helpful member on here at the time) and an APT lighting kit from eBay; (the guy advertises regularly and makes them himself…without having tested them yet, they look pretty good). I see Dagworth is still around and he provided loads of inspiration for the APT when I was originally planning this all those years ago.
I plan to:
- Create four intermediate coaches.
- Deal with the excessive gap between body and bogies (finer wheels are a necessity because of that).
- Generally improve as much as time/skills allow.
- At the very least a full repaint of the chassis on all vehicles – paint matching and the etched window inserts probably means a full repaint, which is worrying as I can’t paint.
- Swap motors and trailing bogies around (giving one double-motored power car and one dummy).
- Some of the simpler remotoring ideas in the thread mentioned above might be copied too…
So, nothing finescale or dead accurate, but hopefully better (and longer) than the original..!! This is what I have done so far:
- Completely, but very carefully, dissemble 4 driving cars and 4 generator coaches. I want to rewheel and fit bearings with this tool from Alan Gibson, hence the bogies came off: http://www.alangibso...m/RTR Drill.pdf. Removing the bogies without breaking the L-shaped pin attaching them to the body is pretty difficult – more brain, less brutality for the win!
- Mark and then chop up the chassis exactly as directed by Dagworth and Alastair in the thread mentioned above. Be very careful about following the panel lines; I did and the cut isn’t genuinely square but I am not hugely accomplished at sawing straight lines anyway! At least the gaps on mine are near a panel line and so probably easier to disguise.
- Take the two chassis halves to be joined together, clean up if necessary and trial fit using the roofbody of the generator car as a “jig”. You need to snip off the end retaining lug from the roof section at what was the 4-wheel bogie end.
- I decided to glue the chassis together with the roof attached to ensure a straight and true assembly, but did NOT want the roof and chassis permanently stuck together. So I took some pieces of grease-proof paper and folded them over the mating surfaces on the roof/body in the area where the chassis halves will be joined. I’ll only know if this worked when I take everything apart tomorrow!
- I took the chassis half that was originally part of the generator car and clipped it back onto the roof properly. I them gently squeezed some Humbrol poly cement (the bottle with a fine tube as an applicator is useful here) onto the other chassis half - not too close to the top as I’m not totally convinced by the greaseproof paper - and pushed it carefully into place.
- A little jiggling to ensure everything is in line and an elastic band was used to secure it whilst everything sets overnight. There were a few gaps so poly cement was used to fill them (there are still gaps near the top, but I’m not risking the chassis being glued to the roof/body). I will heavily reinforce this joint on the inside with plasticard later – I know it isn’t very strong at the moment, but I want everything glued up square before I add strength.
- To reduce the gap between the bogie and the coach body, I then cut some 50mm lengths of square section 2mm x 2mm plastic-strip, chamfered one end with a file to match the angle of the body. Using a fibreglass pen I took the paint off the bogie well where the strips were to be attached and cemented the strips into place ensuring they sit flush with the body.
- When I had checked everything was aligned, this was reinforced with some liquid poly solvent to ensure a really strong joint. I don’t want them coming off when filing them to match the profile of the coach sides.
- The plastic strips are slightly too long as I plan to cement the coach ends (but not the separate corridor connectors) to the roof/body section and blend them in, so when the coach is repainted it looks more like the real thing. A length of the 2mm x 2mm plastic strip will be cemented between the two strips there already, across the end of the chassis (under the Hornby coach ends, but not secured to them) to match this later when the filing and trimming is done.
Photo’s hopefully make sense of the text…this is the first; I'll probably post a photo of all 4 later out of vanity!
Edited by plasticbasher, 26 January 2013 - 20:09 .