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Mid-Cornwall Lines - 1950s Western Region in 00


St Enodoc
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'cos that's how it was at Par!

 

To be fair, the prototype included two Y-points rather than the two left-hand points, so a slip wouldn't have been appropriate there. I couldn't replicate that in the space I have but wanted to keep the overall look of the thing.

 

The other disadvantage if using a slip is that it would have meant the point end on the loop would be much further along thus shortening the standage.  What is being reproduced is fairly typical, albeit with detail variations, of the way the GWR tackled that sort of situation with Par being just one example.

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I spent this week's hotel thinking time, such as it was with a lot of other distractions, thinking about how to deal with the electrical work on the lever frame.

 

The points are no problem, as the current required for the Cobalt iP motors is well below the 100 mA limit of the Modratec switches, but the memory wire signal motors draw about 250 mA each. I ordered enough relays from Modratec to operate these but they have 12 V (nominal) coils and I wasn't sure whether they would work with the DCC Concepts 9-0-9 V dc split potential supply. In the hotel I sketched out some alternative power supply arrangements to give a 12-0-12 V dc supply, in a similar way to what is shown on Tortoise motor instructions. I also looked up the data sheet for the Modratec relays, which are a standard type. This told me that the relays should pick up at 9V, so the obvious thing to do was to test one. I did this tonight using a battery and I'm happy to say that it worked without problems, so the existing power supply should do the trick.

 

The Eemecks, on the other hand, will need a 5V dc supply and also, because of the lengths of run involved, more relays to switch this. I will use a separate 12 V dc supply for these.

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I spent this week's hotel thinking time, such as it was with a lot of other distractions, thinking about how to deal with the electrical work on the lever frame.

 

The points are no problem, as the current required for the Cobalt iP motors is well below the 100 mA limit of the Modratec switches, but the memory wire signal motors draw about 250 mA each. I ordered enough relays from Modratec to operate these but they have 12 V (nominal) coils and I wasn't sure whether they would work with the DCC Concepts 9-0-9 V dc split potential supply. In the hotel I sketched out some alternative power supply arrangements to give a 12-0-12 V dc supply, in a similar way to what is shown on Tortoise motor instructions. I also looked up the data sheet for the Modratec relays, which are a standard type. This told me that the relays should pick up at 9V, so the obvious thing to do was to test one. I did this tonight using a battery and I'm happy to say that it worked without problems, so the existing power supply should do the trick.

 

The Eemecks, on the other hand, will need a 5V dc supply and also, because of the lengths of run involved, more relays to switch this. I will use a separate 12 V dc supply for these.

When I read this, most of which passed over my head, It did make me reflect that I understand why Churchward was so keen on standardisation!

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This morning I laid the cork and foam underlay for the pointwork at the Down end of Porthmellyn Road.

 

20180602001PorthmellynRoadDownendcorkandfoam.JPG.ccde94a19be2dcf6bf6de22222030f0e.JPG

Where possible, I used the foam with its ready-chamfered edge, filling in the gaps with cork. It was all stuck down with PVA and the curved bits of foam held in line with pins until the glue dried. The Tracksetta under the track on the left was just there to lift it clear of the foam while the glue dried. When I lay the points it will be cut back to fit.

 

Later in the afternoon I painted the bare cork with the slate-grey base paint which should dry overnight. Time permitting, I will start laying the points tomorrow.

Edited by St Enodoc
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New magic number is 2020 as an Ag Sci I am related to fancies a trip to the Antipodes with us!,

Baz

Sounds good. I assume that's the one who had a birthday yesterday. What time of year have you in mind - cricket season again?

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Time did permit today, although not to the extent that I would have liked. The reason for this was that last night I hopped into bed and got a big surprise. No, not what you evil lot are thinking - just that the electric blanket wasn't on. Investigation this morning revealed that the controller had packed up so we decided to by a new blanket, which meant an unscheduled visit to the shops.

 

Consequently, I didn't have as much railway time as I had expected. Nevertheless, I made a start on laying the Porthmellyn Road Down end points.

 

20180603001PorthmellynRoadDownendmainlinessevered.JPG.b30dd166e8e864fe81389ec334a4ebf4.JPG

The first job was to sever the main lines and remove the plain track. I took a bit of care over the positioning of the points, as I want the main lines to remain straight and also the track from the Down main all the way to the half-scissors complex to be nice and straight as well.

 

20180603002trackbedgluedforPM33Aand36Bpoints.JPG.29346888d0624944e86ea37e6a40451d.JPG

After finalising the position of the single slip (33A/36B points), I drilled the holes for the motor wires and laid the dummy ballast strips as usual before applying the water-based contact adhesive. While this was going off we changed the electric blankets over. Waste not, want not - I now have two nice lengths of mains flex with a moulded plug at one end of each, having chopped these off the old controllers.

 

20180603003PM33A36Band33Bpointsgluedinplace.JPG.b944abad323ac59f4c6fbbb6b9c7a114.JPG

Once the slip was in place I did the same with 33B point that forms the other end of the crossover. I lined up the straight rails with a steel rule then weighted everything down and left the glue to set.

 

I'll finish off these two points next weekend, with luck, and possibly get the motors fitted too although if not I will just lock them for the main lines and fit temporary frog jumpers.

 

Next weekend, which is a long weekend here, also sees the Epping MRC show. It's in a new venue this year at Rosehill Racecourse http://www.eppingmodelrailway.org.au/exhibition.html. I will report back.

Edited by St Enodoc
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St Enodoc, you must be getting a bit soft.... down here in Melbourne we residents don't need electric blankets we tough it out .... been a bit dry though....

 

My other half wanted a electric blanket when we got hitched, I said I had not used one since ducted (central) heating.... she hasn't either ever since! 

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St Enodoc, you must be getting a bit soft.... down here in Melbourne we residents don't need electric blankets we tough it out .... been a bit dry though....

 

My other half wanted a electric blanket when we got hitched, I said I had not used one since ducted (central) heating.... she hasn't either ever since! 

Doug, we have ducted reverse-cycle air conditioning but we don't run it overnight. We have a good doona of course - but the electric blanket is a boon for those first few minutes when you get into bed (certainly at my age!).

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I made a start on the half-scissors tonight. I decided that the easiest place to begin would be with the long rail running across the top of the formation, for two reasons: first, this will give a good straight datum for the diamond in particular; and secondly it will give a bit of rigidity to the points while they are under construction.

 

I then put in the vee for 27B points (top right) for no better reason than this seemed to be the easiest thing to do next. Finally for tonight I extended that vee to form the upper elbow for the diamond. I gauged the two parts of this elbow with a straight edge both from 27B's vee and the left end of the long rail. I'm setting the vees at 16.5 mm gauge but the elbows will be set to 16.2 mm to get smaller gaps - although with the diamond having an angle of roughly 1 in 2.5 the chance of wheels taking the wrong road should be lower than with the 1 in 5 or 1 in 6 slips anyway.

 

20180604001PM27A2927Bpointsstarted.JPG.1bab105bb0d0e270fb15f165764dfb06.JPG

Here's the state of play so far.

 

Unless anyone can tell me a good reason not to, I plan to fit the vee to 29 points (upper left) next, to complete the "triangle", followed by the two vees for the diamond. I will then check that everything is aligned before moving on to finish the diamond following the sequence in my old Scalefour Digest.

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I made a start on the half-scissors tonight. I decided that the easiest place to begin would be with the long rail running across the top of the formation, for two reasons: first, this will give a good straight datum for the diamond in particular; and secondly it will give a bit of rigidity to the points while they are under construction.

 

I then put in the vee for 27B points (top right) for no better reason than this seemed to be the easiest thing to do next. Finally for tonight I extended that vee to form the upper elbow for the diamond. I gauged the two parts of this elbow with a straight edge both from 27B's vee and the left end of the long rail. I'm setting the vees at 16.5 mm gauge but the elbows will be set to 16.2 mm to get smaller gaps - although with the diamond having an angle of roughly 1 in 2.5 the chance of wheels taking the wrong road should be lower than with the 1 in 5 or 1 in 6 slips anyway.

 

attachicon.gif20180604 001 PM 27A, 29, 27B points started.JPG

Here's the state of play so far.

 

Unless anyone can tell me a good reason not to, I plan to fit the vee to 29 points (upper left) next, to complete the "triangle", followed by the two vees for the diamond. I will then check that everything is aligned before moving on to finish the diamond following the sequence in my old Scalefour Digest.

Gave myself a headache reading that, I don't know how you do it. I'll stick with Peco, for the time being. 

 

Sorry I missed the last running session John, might have a running day at mine in July. You and a couple of the other fellas if are most welcome to come along. I also haven't forgotten about the dvd. 

 

Jesse 

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St Enodoc, depending on the rail you are using if you need to join the bull head the new Peco bull head fish plates can be a good short cut if you need to add a bit of extra length or hold an alignment. I have used them when having a little issue with the P4 track I have been building! 

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Gave myself a headache reading that, I don't know how you do it. I'll stick with Peco, for the time being. 

 

Sorry I missed the last running session John, might have a running day at mine in July. You and a couple of the other fellas if are most welcome to come along. I also haven't forgotten about the dvd. 

 

Jesse 

No problem - just don't pick the 7th which is a BRMA meeting at Charles's, the 14th as that is a BRMA committee meeting or the 21st which is our next MCL session. Any other Saturday in July will be fine!

 

PS you do know how I do it because you watched me at Forestville. Just have a go one day.

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St Enodoc, depending on the rail you are using if you need to join the bull head the new Peco bull head fish plates can be a good short cut if you need to add a bit of extra length or hold an alignment. I have used them when having a little issue with the P4 track I have been building! 

Thanks Doug. A bit of extra length is always a good thing. Regarding fishplates,  I have a supply of old Minitrix N gauge joiners. They have a vertical face that fits the web on SMP rail and are ideal for the job. I suspect they're not made any more.

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Model Rail magazine has just announced that it will, in conjunction with Rapido Trains, produce a ready-to-run 16xx pannier tank:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/134707-model-rail-announce-gwr-class-1600-0-6-0pt/

 

I can't find anything to tell me what scale it will be, although I suspect it will be 4 mm.

 

Typically, this announcement comes just as I have got my Nu-Cast 1664 running again. I seem to remember writing recently that I don't need any more locos...

 

I'll probably get one anyway and number it 1626.

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Model Rail magazine has just announced that it will, in conjunction with Rapido Trains, produce a ready-to-run 16xx pannier tank:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/134707-model-rail-announce-gwr-class-1600-0-6-0pt/

 

I can't find anything to tell me what scale it will be, although I suspect it will be 4 mm.

 

Typically, this announcement comes just as I have got my Nu-Cast 1664 running again. I seem to remember writing recently that I don't need any more locos...

 

I'll probably get one anyway and number it 1626.

 

Quoted as 'OO' gauge ready-to-run in the magazine and coming, sometime, from Rapido it will no doubt be a fully detailed item.  No release date or pre-ordering as yet, seems to be basically the announcement of the project to develop the model.  I reckon you'll be needing 1664 for around a couple of years ;)

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Quoted as 'OO' gauge ready-to-run in the magazine and coming, sometime, from Rapido it will no doubt be a fully detailed item.  No release date or pre-ordering as yet, seems to be basically the announcement of the project to develop the model.  I reckon you'll be needing 1664 for around a couple of years ;)

Thanks Mike. As I said on the other thread, I won't see my copy of the magazine for another week or so and I just found it odd that nobody had confirmed the scale anywhere on RMweb.

 

You're right about 1664. I think my Lima (with a Bachmann chassis) 8412 will be in the same boat, as will 6305...

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No problem - just don't pick the 7th which is a BRMA meeting at Charles's, the 14th as that is a BRMA committee meeting or the 21st which is our next MCL session. Any other Saturday in July will be fine!

 

PS you do know how I do it because you watched me at Forestville. Just have a go one day.

ahhhh I picked the 7th and I cant back out, . 

 

One day I'll give it a go!

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I have just read through this thread in its entirety and I'm hugely impressed at the model's scope and precision. And, remarkably, I think I may have found something on which I can shed a little helpful light:
 

will the propeller be turning?   
 
hat, coat, c u later!!
 
baz

 

Erm, four engines each with two contra-rotating props...
 
Probably not.


The easy way to solve this problem is to replace the propeller blades with circles of clear acetate of the same diameter. Drill a hole through the centre of each circle, affix to a Dremel, hold a paintbrush loaded with thin yellow paint to the edge as you spin the disc, and lo you will have very effective representations of turning props with perfectly-applied yellow prop-tips! I did it with a Lancaster; take a look below:

post-9375-0-14271500-1528294385_thumb.jpg

post-9375-0-68163100-1528294396_thumb.jpg

post-9375-0-74877700-1528294412_thumb.jpg
 
 

Quoted as 'OO' gauge ready-to-run in the magazine and coming, sometime, from Rapido it will no doubt be a fully detailed item.  No release date or pre-ordering as yet, seems to be basically the announcement of the project to develop the model.  I reckon you'll be needing 1664 for around a couple of years ;)

 

00-gauge indeed, and I would guess it will appear sometime in 2019 because MR's second project, a Southern E1 0-6-0, is suggested as likely to appear in early 2020.

Regards,
Gavin

edited to incorporate images

Edited by Black Marlin
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I have just read through this thread in its entirety and I'm hugely impressed at the model's scope and precision. And, remarkably, I think I may have found something on which I can shed a little helpful light:

 

 

The easy way to solve this problem is to replace the propeller blades with circles of clear acetate of the same diameter. Drill a hole through the centre of each circle, affix to a Dremel, hold a paintbrush loaded with thin yellow paint to the edge as you spin the disc, and lo you will have very effective representations of turning props with perfectly-applied yellow prop-tips! I did it with a Lancaster; take a look below:

 

attachicon.gif617 Lanc over Robinson O4.JPG

 

attachicon.gif617 Sqn Lanc Over Base_kindlephoto-38170088.jpg

 

attachicon.gif617 Sqn Lanc Tunnel Mouths.JPG

 

 

 

00-gauge indeed, and I would guess it will appear sometime in 2019 because MR's second project, a Southern E1 0-6-0, is suggested as likely to appear in early 2020.

 

Regards,

Gavin

 

edited to incorporate images

That's a very good idea for the props Gavin. I'll file that away until I get round to building the kit.

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