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Okay, so I have decided that with so many different areas involved in my modelling it is best if I put everything in one thread instead of spreading it around.

 

So, for those of you who don't know, I am attempting to create model buildings that can be cast and replicated. I have already created a half relief terraced house which I am now in the process of painting and weathering when I get the time.

 

I am also working on more terraced houses, (both front and back) in original and classic designs, a post office and a shop.

 

I may also be making some retaining walls too, but that is on the back burner for now.

 

So, to begin with, I have a new workshop! I converted the garage and decked it out with my gear:

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Loads more space than the pokey box room. Plus, as it's in the garage I can make a bit of noise at night and not wake anyone up.

 

Bonus.

 

So watch this space - add it to your watch list as it's going to get interesting as things come together.

 

Also, please feel free to post anything relevant including photos of your own bits and bobs. Feel free to question me and I will do my best to answer you too.

 

Pete

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Those of you who saw my build "the old workshop" will recall my filler scribe method. If you didn't see it it's floating around the scenery and structure forum under the title "corrugated roof scratchbuild" or something similar.

 

(You can check out the filler scribe method on my blogspot in the links below my signature.)

 

It is now an outdated method for my needs, but taught me a lot about scribing and is a useful medium in which to scribe so give it a go if you like.

 

So a mold is made of laser cut house faces. The molds then allow me to make the pieces out of giftware plaster ready to be modelled.

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post-21051-0-03585400-1426102124_thumb.jpg

post-21051-0-80154500-1426102140_thumb.jpg

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Hello Pete,

 

Interesting blog, I think this one will run ( hopefully ).

You've mentioned giftware plaster in the above post, can I ask purely out of curiosity how you "glue" the ends/corners etc to itself ?

 

Most enjoyable

 

Grahame

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Hi Grahame,

 

I usually make a 90 degree mitre using lego as high as the walls of the building. Each corner is sanded to 45 degrees and superglued together with mitre mate that u bought a jewsons. The can of activator sprayed on will cure it immediately. Then I use some gel superglue up the inside edge for strength and cure that too. Ends up pretty strong.

 

Pete

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Pete

 

Looks very good and if the quality of the workmanship is as good as your previous models it will look stunning, I guess the plaster units can easily be slightly distressed, unlike the laser cut masters.

 

Would it be an idea of having the windows and doors laser cut? 

 

Difficult to see from the photo but what type of finish is the house render or brick?

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The plaster pieces are raw and not even scribed yet. This particular one will be brick..

 

The doors will be added at this initial stage and will be part of the final cast on the master model. The windows will be supplied as laser cut much like the image below, which is the stone cottage version taken from the same mold but scribed and finished differently. This is the master completely constructed and ready to be moulded, with the exception of the windows, which are just pushed in behind as a test before the final mold is made of the complete structure.post-21051-0-13042400-1426154825_thumb.jpg

 

Pete

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Okay, so today's instalment is the dreaded brick scribing.

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I used a frame with printed lines on for the courses, which was laid on a bed of sticky A4 paper glued to a sheet of plastic. I scribed it and then as I removed it from its sticky haven, it broke in 2 places.

 

Now, being a veteran of broken pieces of scribed material I simply glued them back and re plastered the damage, which is visible on the picture as I haven't the time tonight to re scribe.

 

The dirt is some weathering powder that found its way into the mold before casting.

 

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Here is an image of the building I am basing this model on:

 

post-21051-0-50223900-1426207374_thumb.jpg

 

Pete

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For those who havent seen any of my (very few) builds before, the image below is from my workshop build that inspired me to start my own business producing buildings.

 

This is the level I wish to achieve with all my future creations.

 

post-21051-0-30412800-1426281950.jpg

 

Tonight I have been assembling my new airbrush and compressor rig, to help with the production process of painting the base colours onto the buildings.

 

It was only £99 for three airbrushes and a little compressor but will suffice for my needs.

 

Photos to follow once I have done a few tests on a reject cast.

 

Pete

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Working on the details for this model. There is a fair chance I may start again with this as it has had so many repairs done to it that it has lost its crispness and looks a little messy.

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

Pete

Looks just fine to me Pete, old buildings do get battered about mate.

 

Cheers.

Allan

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Proud to be inspiring my son in his younger years. So much so in fact that he has started a design draft for his own model house for me to cast in plaster!

 

Let's see if he finished it or wanders off to find some lego!

 

post-21051-0-30742800-1426619208_thumb.jpg

 

Pete

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Proud to be inspiring my son in his younger years. So much so in fact that he has started a design draft for his own model house for me to cast in plaster!

 

Let's see if he finished it or wanders off to find some lego!

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

Pete

So this is how you do it, with a major designer on hand and I thought you went it all alone.

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The plaster pieces are raw and not even scribed yet. This particular one will be brick..

 

The doors will be added at this initial stage and will be part of the final cast on the master model. The windows will be supplied as laser cut much like the image below, which is the stone cottage version taken from the same mold but scribed and finished differently. This is the master completely constructed and ready to be moulded, with the exception of the windows, which are just pushed in behind as a test before the final mold is made of the complete structure.attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

Pete

This looks very good.

 

But as a builder, two things glare out at me. One the window sills you would never do vertical stones it lets water into the core of the wall, they should be made in such a way to take the water away from the window and drop it away from the wall. Secondly the quoins (corner stones) look to be too similar in size. This is a model is not a problem but in reality it is very weak and liable to collapse.

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During my research I looked at stonework and found that many cottages have smaller stone at the corners and comparing my model to the various images on google doesn't flag up any issues really.

 

As for the cills, my uncle used to timeshare a cottage on the coast in Wales near fairbourne. There was a branch line that ran past the cottage and I remember (during our summer breaks there) spending some time in the window watching class 37's hauling huge rakes up the hill no more than 20 yards away. The cills had vertical stone set in them and I remember picking the moss out from the gaps. I used the vertical stone design on this model - it may well have caused water ingress but it existed!

 

Pete

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