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Something Different Again Again - GWR 10T 5 Plank Open Wagon


SRman

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Work on building the Parkside Dundas GWR 10 ton 5-plank wagon has commenced. There are still some components to fit, but progress on the kit was again rapid (like the Mink D I did yesterday).

 

Parkside%2010T%205%20Plank%20-%201%20cropped_zpsxfktimr5.jpg

 

Adding weight to open wagons is always problematic if one wishes to leave the interior detail visible. I am using some lead ball bearings here, glued on with a liquid contact cement. A few of the balls have stuck in the wrong places but I will clear them out before long. There is still not sufficient weight in this wagon, so I will have to fill a few more spaces in the underframe. I left the end areas clear so I could do my usual NEM coupling arrangement, using two spacers of 40 thou plasticard and the Parkside adapters (actually included with this particular kit). The Hornby fishtails fit better than Bachmann ones, which tend to be bit loose.To fix that problem, since most of my couplings are Bachmann ones, is to add a small blob of mastic in the fishtail slot.

 

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Obvious items still to add include the tarpaulin bar, the door bumpers, handbrake levers, and the tiebar between the axleguards (actually moulded on the kit but they broke when I was cutting the parts off the sprues, so I will replace them with some microstrip).

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Here it is again, all but complete now, apart from painting. Parkside include a length of plastic rod to form the tarp bar, but I decided to substitute some brass wire for this, glued into place with a superglue.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

What weight are you looking to get with your wagons? I manage to get up to 30g no problem using sheet lead. Maybe there's too much dead space between those balls to get the weight up easily. I used wire for the tarp rail too, no way is the plastic rod supplied ever going to be of any use for that purpose.

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I normally use sheet lead where it will be hidden (like in vans or coaches, or open wagons with loads), but in this case, there is not a lot of space to mount it, as the underside photo shows. Even so, I can get a bit more in, making sure I don't get any under the wheels. I agree with you re spaces between the balls - maybe it's not the most efficient way to get weight in. Way back in my teens, I used Plasticene a lot as weight, being the only heavy material I had access to. It could be squeezed into every available crevice to maximise the weight.

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  • RMweb Gold

Sounds good, although the photos seem to have gone. Any chance of uploading them again? Thanks.

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I think there was a problem with Photobucket this morning,as these and the ones I posted on another forum had vanished. They seem to be back at the current time.

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I did add a little more weight into the corners and edges of the underframe recesses. I'm far more satisfied with it now.

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  • RMweb Gold

Agreed it's not as easy on the kits with underframe detail on floor but still doable. I just cut the bits to fit in all the gaps, two layers works well. This one is a Ratio kit, turns out I've not got round to doing the PD ones yet.

 

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