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Building the Churchward 45xx Part Seven


Coombe Barton

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Cab

 

Right, so it’s the cab. Enquiries on a thread have produced answers that help. What the people answering didn’t know was that I can quite successfully bu99er up their suggestions and delay delivery of the necessary wire to complete the cab rear. So now I’m going to cut out the necessary bits to dry fit them on to what’s already built. Or may be to cut out another set from brass. We’ll see.

 

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The inside of the back of the cab, Seats and coal door in place.

 

A bit of thought first how the task of getting bars soldered on place and straight. First thoughts are bit of card marked with lined at the correct spacing and then shaped to the window outline, then the bars bent across this, then the whole thing soldered up. Removal of the card by soaking in water until it can be pulled out. That’s the first thought – but see how it goes first.

 

First, fix the cab front. Making sure it was well mated and not showing gaps was interesting, but it got done. However there are two modifications I need to make to the rear of the cab – first is removing the etched bunker doors as I want to model them in the open position, and second the removal of the existing grating bars. Think piercing saw, files and invective and you’ve got it. Then sweat two layers together and then work out how you’re going to mark out for drilling 0.2mm holes when your smallest drill is 0.3mm. Never fear – look for the box of numbered drills – and find that they’re bigger. So it’s eBay. They’ll be here next week, Wednesday or Thursday. So having laminated the two bits of the cab back together, we’ll move to the next stage. This was the end of the two paragraphs we started in part five. This is, if a reminder is needed, part seven.

 

Next we’ll bend up the tank sides. The instructions say that you bend “using a piece of silver steel or a drill shank of the appropriate diameter.” This is pretty carp (anag.) for a kit of this quality and price. The kit comes in two (only two) varieties – 4mm and 7mm scales, and presumably the instructions do for each, so it really would not have hurt to say what diameters are indeed appropriate. Also it is very hard to prevent the sides from bending in the area of the cab doorway, so holding them in a couple of pieces of straight wood is an advantage whilst cleaning up the fret attachments.

 

But that’s all for this session – working out how to do the bends without cocking up has taken time. Body again in alkaline bath.

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  • RMweb Gold

I remember thinking exactly the same thing at that point re the instructions, though it seems a common fault as the Finney 2251 instructions pretty much said the same thing on forming the firebox...

 

Looking good so far!

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Ah yes, 'appropriate diameter/radius' seems to be a kit designers' favourite. With one of these, your best guide will be the curves at the front of the tank top and in the beading pieces that fit along the top of the tank and bunker.

 

Nick

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Placed three orders:

  • Brass wire from Eileen's (arrived)
  • Silver steel assortment as recommended by Nick (waiting)
  • 0.2mm drills for the holes for the brass wire over the cab windows (waiting)

And decided to get a range of metric sizes of silver steel rather than imperial.

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