Leaderboard

Good evening, An update to share some thoughts of recent on the layout. Firstly, the track layout. I had some thoughts on relocating the turnout onto the other board to try and increase the length of train for run-a-round purposes and this would still allow room for a class 33/73 between the turnout and buffer stops. I then realised that this would increase the amount of visible track in the front edge of the bay platform and one of the things I liked about Kyle was having a little scenic space to allow the siding to breathe. Instead I have now shuffled the turnout to the end edge of the baseboard which buys about 50mm extra in the loop, which could be a wagon length at this scale. Only minimal but preserves the single track to the front baseboard edge... Secondly, the means of operation for the fiddleyards. I have been wrestling with traversers v cassettes in my mind for a few weeks now (I have always wanted one of those sliding traversers built on draw runners) but alas, its not to be for this layout.It makes much more sense for the cassette type operation as most trains on the through line will be fed from the single track end and then they will be collected and reassembled at the other end to start the sequence again. Coupled with this, the fiddleyards need to be hinged to fit in the boxfiles...so more complications with a hinged folding sliding mechanism Back to cassettes and the ones below were fabricated for CJM and are 500mm in length. Two aluminum angles on a card base... I thought about reusing them, but they need to be extended as the 4CEP doesn't fit and longer lengths will enable slightly more interesting trains (more on this in my next update) Next thought was to see if they fit in my hand luggage at 500mm in length and possibly extend them at each end...but I kinda like the idea of everything still fitting into both boxfiles, which still squeeze in my hand luggage. So it looks like I will be splicing them in half to give 2 No. 250mm pieces, hinged together with a 100mm feeder extensions to both ends That's the thinking today anyway...as I try to find a neat solution for power and alignment issues to avoid the same issues experienced on Kyle. Thirdly, should it be of interest I have uploaded some sketches mostly which were done en route to the UK and were enhanced with a little Bombay Sapphire and Tonic in my bloodstream at an altitude of circa 35,000ft..They show how the solution was developed for the folding hinged through line alongside some thoughts on layout lighting, fascia and electrical supply etc. Overall dimensions and stacking in the boxfiles... If cassettes, that will determine depth of fiddleyard bases... Layout lighting will probably use IKEA strip lighting used on RMweb 2011 challenge entry.... Ideas on power between boards and for cassettes... Hinged through line support method and location of control panel elements... The next entry will cover rolling stock and possibly any developments on the cassettes. As always, comments welcome...

A commission one this, for our local vicar and follows on from the Golden Arrow Crosti 9F that I did for him. The loco was in a very sorry state, it had not been put together very well, although the finish was not bad. Quite a lot of the original detail parts were never fitted (blower tunnel etc) and It had suffered at the hands of someone else who had attempted to add weight and get it to run on trainset curves. So the brief was to make it look and run as well as my Golden Arrow 71000. Into the Superstrip it went and it promptly fell apart. The tender needs less work, just a refinish really so lets concentrate on the loco. Here's how it stands at the moment The intention is to solder the boiler to the firebox and then firebox to cab using the running plate as a guide. Still undecided about soldering the boiler assembly to the footplate, they bolt together by design, but it might be a more robust loco if it was all soldered. I have an old Crownline Brit detailing pack that I robbed some parts from for my 71000 build - there is a blower tunnel in there at least plus some other detailing parts that will be added in due course. Once the body is done and primed I'll switch to the chassis (which is a mess!)

Hi Pete Simply brilliant planning again! Those sketches are marvellous and explain everything. I can just imagine what will happen at airport security - they'll have it out of your bag and you'll be delayed a couple of hours because they'll want to play trains and marvel at how you've been able to squeeze a completely functional layout into your hand luggage! Mike

Interesting thoughts as always Pete, I also was toying with the idea of an linear traverser for Congdon's Shop, but I likewise thought that this was an bit overkill. I have decided to use the same system as my dad's cassette's and make them compatible (may provide useful if I ever find that I need to borrow some.) Have you thought of using cassettes made with brass strip, with an tube and rod type plug soldered onto the ends to provide alignment and electrical feed? This should have the advantage of being able to connect two, three or four cassettes together without having to really worry about providing power or alignment issues. Best Regards, Chris.

Photograph is copyright of Simon Gott and replicated here for educational purposes only. Lone Wolf Oh dear. What have I done. I've taken on yet another project! (I have in fact taken on about five projects, one of which was the Ivatt Atlantic, but more on that later). The above model will soon be in my possession and will be the subject of an excercise to see if I can produce a more reasonable P2 model for my personal collection and use in my future stocklist for my KX-Leeds trainset/layout/roundy round that I am planning. It's completely out of period, it's unnecessary, it would have been at KX only a few times, and...etc etc. Who cares! I've always wanted one, and in purchasing this particular model, I can do some modelling in terms of bringing it up to scratch, and also fulfill that small personal promise to myself that I'd develop a layout which a decent model of a P2 could get around. The intention is to model number 2006 Wolf of Badenoch in its wartime all over black livery, perhaps with an interesting variation (white warning panels behind the buffers and white outline buffers) which can be seen in figure 150 of RCTS LNER Locomotives, Part 6B. The model will be carefully brought up to a decent standard through careful selection of appropriate components and modifications which will allow both a more accurate model and a better running model to be created. I started collating a plan of action on the LNER Encyclopedia forum (which can be found here with the full discussion), and will continue the overall build here, and on my external blog. The Modifications Required 1. The Tender The tender from the Nu-Cast model is mishapen, too long in the frames, too short in the tank and rather crude. It was good for its time, but I want the model to look reasonable against the latest Pacifics from Hornby and Bachmann. I have therefore made it my intention to scrap the Nu-Cast one altogether. I already have a spare Hornby non-corridor tender, bought for a pittance off eBay, which is suitable for this build. It's one of the latest ones, and I believe it came from a super detail Mallard model. This tender is more or less the same as the P2 tender, however my intention is to model 2006 Wolf of Badenoch, and this means the streamlined tender fairings at the front and rear over the water filler cap need to be added. Comparing the Isinglass drawings of class P2/3 against A4, the fairings look like they can be added relatively easily, either by carving up the old Nu-cast tender for its fairings, or using plasticard. The latter looks much more likely. 2. The Cab The Nu-Cast cab is horrendous. The roof and its details are wrong for most of the P2s (streamlined or not) and it's certainly not right for no.2006. Happily, after the latest round of Isinglass drawings came in, I was able to confirm a long held suspicion that the A4 cab from a Hornby super detail A4, with the side sheets built up, would not only be the correct length, but 100% accurate for no.2006's cab, which conformed to the A4 specification, including the two extra roof vents. Other than the side sheets, there are no discernible differences: the A4 and later P2 cabs were the same, even down to the non-beaded side sheets. I am therefore going to removing a Hornby A4 from a spare bodyshell I got off eBay: namely the battered remains of a Sir Charles Newton model. 3. The Cartazzi The current model has a swing link cartazzi that just looks wrong. The intention is to remove this altogether and fit a fixed cartazzi, with flangeless wheelset. The cartazzi from the super detail Hornby A3/A4 can be happily used and then cut/shut to the correct length without further modification, as they are (again) very similar to that on the P2s. 4. The Streamlined Front The front end will not be changed much. The curve and length, and the difference in width of the flat of the smokebox across the curve, is completely different to the A4. The A4 has a much sharper front and the P2's curves back more gracefully to its first boiler band. This whole section is also longer on the P2, according to the Isinglass drawings for the P2/3 and A4 Pacific. I am therefore not going to change the front end substantially, other than to try and match the more subtle details of the Hornby A4 through use of Archer's resin rivets and similar. 5. Wheelsets Luckily for me, I don't need to change the Hornby A4 tender wheelsets: no.2006 had disc wheelsets for its whole life as a P2/3. However I will be changing the driving wheels. It is perhaps not obvious from here, but the centre wheelsets have been turned down to be flangeless. I will be fitting flanged driving wheels throughout, though I am undecided on the brand. If anyone could assist with suitable suggestions, further to that on the LNER forum, I would be grateful. Obviously the replacement driving wheels must be able to utilise the existing valve gear and coupling rods. The front pony truck wheelset will also need replacing. I think (though I may be wrong) that a set of V2 wheels may be suitable, now? Those I have several spare, for use on my Bachmann V2 fleet, and one can be fitted here as a matter of course. 6. Buffers Put simply, the Nu-Cast P2 buffers are bad. They have a rounded base which is completely wrong for the P2s. At the advice of the members of the LNER Forum, I'm going to give Branchlines a ring for some Spencer double cased buffers in the streamlined pattern, which will help to improve the front end greatly. 7. Chimney & Whistle The A4 type chimney is not a direct match to the P2s, but I have plenty of resin and plastic A4 chimneys spare from my recent A4 builds. I am therefore going to examine whether it is worth creating a new P2 chimney to more closely match the Isinglass drawings in this way, or whether the existing Nu-Cast chimney can be modified to be more accurate. There is some method in my recent madness of buying up cheap spare Hornby A4 bodyshells and components - I now have a suitable wartime whistle for the chimney, taken from the same battered bodyshell of Sir Charles Newton I got second hand, and will be raiding for its cab as mentioned previously. 8. Washout Plugs The washout plugs on this model are not correct for no.2006, but are correct for nos.2001/2002. The intention is to remove them by sanding them down, and then replacing them with resin cast washout plugs which may be provided by my usual and much appreciated source of components for my builds. Figure 134 in RCTS LNER 6B shows I need five washout plugs to the A4 spec, placed in specific locations across the upper half of the boiler. 9. Miscellaneous Lastly - the RCTS books suggests that 2006 lost its streamlined casing ahead of the cylinders, but the Isinglass drawings refute that by pointing out the dates do not match up, and therefore it's likely 2006 whilst in NE Black still had its streamlined casing ahead of the cylinders. I am therefore going to leave that as it is too. Half the fun of this particular build is sourcing all of the different components and bringing them together to fit to my model. Given I have so little time to model during the working week in any event, I am planning each portion of the rebuilding on a month by month basis. The idea is to have no.2006 rebuilt, reliveried and running in by Christmas, in conjunction with a few other rebuild/relivery projects I will relate on this blog in the next few weeks. However, I think the above gives me more than enough to do for the meantime! Your thoughts and ideas, as ever, greatly appreciated for debate. Simon

Many thanks Jon - although my 'pre-prepared' sign will be pointing in your direction...try Tanqueray 10 as an alternative...not cheap, but very smooth indeed... I'm guessing that alcohol might have played a part in the ordering that DMU of recent

I might have had a pint at lunchtime today

Strewth Pete... that's a good advert for Bombay Sapphire if ever I saw one... not that I'm not sold on that already. I have to admit that some of my best ideas (or seem the best at the time) are helped with a little (or not so little) G&T... in that order. Well, the master has shown his work off exceedingly well again and we're all eager to see how this develops... and I'm a little in awe of how I'm going to exhibit my work alongside this at BH13... maybe a sign saying "Nothing to see here, but look at that -->" ;-) Jon

So how was your weekend – wet and wild? No gardening here so in between the showers I had time to revisit my Bachmann V2s. 60862 Bachmann Catalogue No. 31-565. ‘60862’ is one of Bachmann’s latest offerings which comes DCC ready and has a ‘fixed’ Cartazzi rear axle. Straight out of the box the engine feels very light weight and at 310 gm it is not as heavy as the models that it replaces. As I have said here on this Blog before – I like playing with my trains and at 310 gm the resulting tractive effort was not acceptable. The lack of weight is a direct result of the cavity provided by Bachmann for storing a decoder. Using some of my supply of second hand lead flashing it was relatively straightforward to fashion three mini slabs of lead, nominally 20 x 35 x 2 mm. The sides of the Bachmann pocket are not square so a little extra filing was needed to get the pieces of lead to wedge into place. The DCC pocket is not the only recess which is readily available and the picture above shows other locations where mini slabs of lead can be wedged into place. The rear of the firebox needs slightly more thought. Firstly the lead needs to be cut short so that the chassis and Cartazzi mechanism is not obstructed. Secondly this piece of lead needs to be fixed in place. I use double sided tape. Back to the kitchen scales and the engine now weighs a respectable 370 gm . 60865 Bachmann Catalogue No. 31-563 (Split axle chassis) What about my older models with the split chassis? Previously the body of these engines had been packed with lead shot held in place by ‘draughting/masking tape’. Not really an engineering solution but this had brought the weight up to around 340gm. However the biggest single improvement that can be made to these earlier models is to remove the pony truck and trailing axle springs. Removing the trailing axle spring (false Cartazzi) is straightforward requiring only one screw to be undone. Removal of the spring for the front pony truck is trickier. The early Bachmann V2s were very thoughtfully engineered with pickups on all wheels. Unfortunately the wire leads from the pickups for the front pony truck wheels pass through the spring. The leads can be released by removing the tiny screws on the underside of the pony truck, or the leads can be un-soldered at their other end where they join the chassis. Time goes by and I forget what I did, I suspect I have used both methods. The view above shows locations where it is straightforward to wedge pieces of lead. Again the mini slab on the back of the firebox needs holding in place (double sided tape) and the infill to the banjo dome needs fixing – I used draughting/masking tape. With lead positioned as shown above the engine weight has been brought up to just over 360 gm. – satisfactory for my needs. 60964 Bachmann Catalogue No. 31-552 Original Split Chassis model I have to include a picture of 60964 (Durham Light Infantry) which has been given the same lead weight treatment and which still runs very well. This was my very first Bachmann engine, bought new from MG Models (Sheffield) in March 1996 for what was then the immense sum of £62.95. At the time I was hugely impressed by how smoothly and quietly the V2 seemed to run – compared to the Mainline offerings of the period. (It also came with the correct size wheels for the Cartazzi axle.) What about performance? As in BR days gone by I want my V2s to be able to deputise for ex LNER Pacifics. With lead ballast added as described above all my V2s can haul seven coach trains up my 1 in 56 grades. Yes – there is space to add more lead in the smoke box and perhaps around the firebox but I don’t need to. Did I do anything with the pony truck spring on ‘60862’ (the latest model)? No it was already very slack - so leave well alone! I am pleased with all my Bachmann V2s and in terms of running I would say there is very little to choose between the older and the new models. Perhaps the running of the newest model is a touch smoother and quieter. What do you do if you are using Digital Control and want to increase the tractive effort – well I guess you put the Chip in the tender!

David, The original CAD drawings we had done for the HC were of Easingwold No.2. However, we subsequently obtained lots more photos from a marvellous gentleman (thanks, Martin) which showed very few of the photographed models had the 'rivets all over and sandboxes above the running plate' appearance of Easingwold No.2. So we bit the bullet and had the loco redrawn to match the 1920s/30s style which you now see. The wheels altered too, so it sounds like one of the old images has snuck into the instructions, which would be entirely my fault. And thanks Matloughe for a fantastic review. It gives us a genuine thrill to know that something we have made gives other modellers pleasure. Cheers, Lindsay O'Reilly, Ixion Models.

Rather than struggle and frustrate yourself trying to use rubbing down paper of various sorts in the awkward corners of a full 3D print, try a small, sharp, flat edged scraper drawn lightly and repeatedly ALONG (rather than across) the printing ridges. It will take off all of the peaks, you can feel (and stop) when you reach something like boiler band, and you can get into all of the corners. It worked well for me on Bill Bedford's O4/5 superstructure. If I were you I'd stick to a body that's largely one-piece if you possibly can in order to maximise the advantages of the 3D print technology.

Made a start today on the rivets for the O gauge Sentinel. Using Archer's transfers for the first time. I'm the first to admit that the spacing is too close, but the prospect of adding each rivet individually was too daunting to contemplate! So I'm going for a general "look" of a rivetted loco rather than prototypical fidelity. What I am trying to say is I'm not a rivet counter yet I've given them a quick waft over with satin black to seal them, pretty pleased with the effect.