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Showing content with the highest reputation on 26/08/14 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hi all. Just a quick entry this evening to show a little more progress. Work the last few days has focused on finishing the backscene whilst I wait for a fresh delivery of track components and the locking, folding brackets for the fiddle yard legs. I always intended the backscene to be a fairly simple affair, essentially representing a lovely sunny Hampshire day (he types, as it's grey & wet outside!) To get the effect I was looking for, the whole backscene was first sprayed with Halfords white primer, and then a light blue colour was added with lighter coverage towards the bottom, leaving the fade from white to blue you get on a clear day. I think this gives quite a nice, simple effect as shown in the photo above. I may be tempted to add clouds at a later date, but I'm undecided at the moment as a badly done backscene can spoil the effect and detract from the rest of the layout. Cheers, Tom. Ropley is a N Gauge Model using 2mm Finescale Easitrac modelled after the real location on the Mid Hants Railway Watercress Line.
  2. 8 points
    Hello Just a little update, nothing really exciting to report this time but there are a couple of things worth mentioning... 1. Tank wagons... This is the latest test build of my anchor mount tank wagon. I have tweaked the etches to make a 10ft wagon this time as its the one I actually need! This particular wagon has also got a 3D printed tank, printed in the classic FUD and with a very small amount of sanding came out really well. It looks like there has been a problem with the paint reacting at some point and had produced some crazing in some areas but you know what, I quite like it and I think it add a nice 'effect' to the wagon so its going to stay. 2. Jinty. This has been on and off my workbench for a while now and has been in parts more time than I care to remember testing out various different components, but its now together and running really well. The components work and if I take away all the 'testing' aspect of it, it has taken about an hour to convert from N Gauge to 2mm Finescale plus its not that difficult to do either. Julia
  3. 5 points
    Apologies for lack of updates iv been doing a bit of decorating for a mate so thats taken up pretty much all my spare time over the last month or so. Anyway 13 003 last time i left it was painted so slowly but surely transfers were added including thh wasp stripes, slapped a bit of weathering on and then blasted everything over with humbrol satin which i think leaves a lovely sheen. Next i ordered an 08 sound chip from Charlie at DC kits and a couple of sugar cube speakers but then i found a a bigger speaker so put one in the master unit, now it was very loud but something didnt seem right with the engine noise it just didnt sound right to me, i tried a few things moving speakers around etc but i couldnt get it to sound correct to me. I dont doubt that Biffo's sounds are the best around, nearly all my other locos are Biffs sounds but for some reason i dont like the 08 but thats just me so itl be off for re blow as a 40 or 26 i think, iv been searching around at other 08 units on the internet and i cant work out which would be best as i think the problem is in videos its bad microphones picking up small speakers so i cant decide to try another sound project or not. I think ill keep my ear out at exhibitions and see if i can pick one so i spent most of the day de chipping so its just silent & DC only now. Its through wired so its 12 wheel pick up and it runs like a dream and will creep along at a snails pace. Heres a few pics of the completed 13 kncking around the shed yard, i was playing with my camera on the phone as well so iv added a couple more in of the super deltic for a bit of a change. Any comments/questions just fire away, id be interested to hear from anyone with 08 sound units and to see what they think. The 'pipe work' between the unites is the wire for the pick ups, i think it looks pretty good doubling up as air pipes. And i found a panorama setting as well Thank for looking All the best James
  4. 4 points
    Having set the tender aside, and with Bank Holiday rain to prevent any outdoor activity, I started on the loco chassis. All in all, things have gone well, barring a couple of silly mistakes which were easily rectified. The chassis fits nicely into the Hornby shell with a few minor adjustments with the craft knife. The tiny Mashima motor and gearbox were not too difficult to assemble and the mechanism is ready for testing before being stripped down for painting. The coupling rods and crank pins still need to be fixed, then, when all is ready the brake rods can be fitted. The shoes, by the way, now need some adjusting following the struggle to get the gearbox to fit inside the frame. Some photos: Early on, frame soldered up, wheels fitted Current status with motor and gearbox Two side profiles
  5. 4 points
    It seemed appropriate to show a picture of the bits that make it work. The servo motor is self explanatory. the brass plate screwed to the small block of ply is the main below baseboard drive. The red and black wires power the LED. What may not be so obvious is the double crank arrangement for the signal. Just below the red and black wires can be seen a small section of copper Mercontrol tube, a steel wire attached to the signal is guided through this to a small hole on the crank, which is very close to the pivot screw. Now to get this wire bent in the correct place is no easy task, so the crank is mounted on a swivel link. the pivot for this is to the left of the crank pivot. this enables the position of the crank to be adjusted to suit the actual position of the bend in the operating wire. Once set the swivel arm is locked in place with Cyano. The next pictures show that I have actually now fitted the ladder, and made good the hole in the platform. only the finial and spectacle film to add.
  6. 2 points
    Rather than convert Bachmann tanks which I did`nt feel were opened framed enough. I had a go at David Geen kits and started on a set of three. I began with a general clean up of parts and to work out how to incorporate my favourite w-irons. this proved to be a little more complex as I had to to fit all three springing units seperately making sure they all squared up with the framing. A little jiggery pokery to make sure the wheels were free of the framing. One of my pet hates is poor quality axle box details, and I feel this is a failing on these kits. All were replaced with MJT. The rest of the kit was very good and went together well. Then a thorough clean and off to the paint shop. I used Fox transfers to complete the project.......... The entire project was completed in the late Ray Earl style...........three Brownie Points to anyone who can say what that is........????? And I did the same!!!!! Actually I messed up the Fox transfers.
  7. 1 point
    I still like making whitemetal kits but having moved into 7mm modelling this is to be the last. Bought through the O Guage Guild Society relatively cheaply with wheels included, I already had a motor and gearbox in the spares box. The kit is from the 1980`s and the body castings seemed reasonable. With some major fettling of the body parts I felt she would make a reasonable loco. By thinning the edges I felt she would have a much better profile. The boiler casting would really need some major work. I decided to remove all cast boiler bands. Then provide brass boiler bands to improve the look. She has been low melt soldered throughout due to the weight of a 7mm model. I would normally provide compensation on the chassis, but this time I did`nt bother as she weighs a ton and some!! But I did add some extra frame detail with plasticard. Having got this far i decided to scrap all the boiler and smokebox fittings as they looked overscale. I sourced alternative castings from various O guage suppliers. Overall I think it improved her looks no end. Then it was off to the paint shop for etch priming and livery. Number plates and cab detailing and the Old Gal was done......
  8. 1 point
    It has long been a task to get Lambourn's platform mounted starter signal into operation. In fact the original non-working signal was broken some time ago. A fit of enthusiasm, and a wet weekend (Well two actually) has seen the task completed. the signal was sited at the end of the platform, and so was unusual in that the balance weights were mounted high on the post, an early example of 'elf and safety'! I confess that the model is actually too tall, ( it should be a bit lower for the driver to sight the arm from below the canopy, but that'll be our little secret eh? The arm is actuated by a servo drive, and illuminated by a tiny (1.6mm x .85mm x .65mm) surface mount LED. I destroyed one as the cast brass post held too much heat which destroyed the LED. Finally I attached two fine enamelled wires and these are hidden in a filed slot in the post, which was finally filled with thick paint. The wires are carried below the platform level and soldered to thin PCB, from which normal layout wires connect to a battery pack below the layout. The fine enamelled wires are protected by 'potting' them in rapid setting resin. At the time the pictures were taken I still have to fit the ladder and finial, but it has been a satisfying project and transforms the layout.
  9. 1 point
    It's been a long time since there were any updates to the viaduct project (and no I haven't done any more to that footbridge). This has been due to a variety of non-modelling issues for both John and myself. Anyway, we're back looking to rebuild some momentum. This weekend we have made significant progress in conceptual planning of the final presentation format (of which more in due course). The main thing was to decide how high to have the track, bearing in mind that it will be different (higher) for the viaduct on its own compared with when it's exhibited with other modules. This has been done, and the track level will be at 1.40 m off the floor for the viaduct solo, and 1.15 m otherwise. The next thing was to determine depth of scenery at the back to the backscene, and the height of the backscene, taking into account likely viewing distances and eyelines. With some experimentation we were able to reduce the depth of board behind the layout without seeming to compromise the illusion. This is the real view through the viaduct: And these are the preliminary test images from today's experiments: Don't worry about the missing balustrades and pavilions - these were never permanently attached and have been removed pending final detailing and fettling. The backscene image is based on photos from the actual location. Obviously the final versions will be in (muted) colour with some 'real' vegetation in front. We'll decide on the actual sizes later on when we are nearer completion.
  10. 1 point
    In the September issue of BRM, I've been painting some little people. While the step-by-step guide covers the painting part, I've set them in a little scene with the two hikers asking directions from the passing cyclist. Here's how I built the model - it's in 7mm scale but everything would work in 4mm: The base for the scene is an offcut of plywood 16cm by 14cm. My plan involved a gateway on to the country road so household DIY filler was used to build up the grass verges and camber in the road surface. A coat of mud coloured emulsion paint seals everything and gives a nice base colour to work on. A whitemetal gate casting hangs on gateposts posts of real wood, but not the ones supplied. A single length is intended to be cut in half and I reckoned that this wouldn't leave enough to bury in the ground so I substituted bits of basswood. The road surface is from the Geoscenics pothole road kit using the grey powder on the road and browner shades in the gateway. This is laid on to PVA and then swamped with the same glue watered down. While sludgy, a toy tractor was run in and out of the gate to model the rutted surface. The hedge is rubberised horsehair dipped in PVA glue and then rolled in flock powder. Even for the countryside, it's bit untidy. I think my model is set in the 1930s when farmers would "lay" a hedge properly instead of flail cutting it as they do now. A little tidy up with some curved nail scissors (a very handy tool) smartened things up. Finally, a bit of electrostatic grass finishes the scene. Spraying this with hair spray then sprinkling some yellow flock provides a few dandylions for our rural location. After this, the people are fixed in place by drilling holes in the base to accpet the pegs cast in the bottom of their feet.
  11. 1 point
    Hello Well July has been a bit productive on the layout. Its probably because all the long drawn out bits are done and its now down to the scenics really (well, apart from a few bits and bobs). I enjoy scenics and it can come together relatively quickly too, I have even added a few details... This is an overall of the station forecourt area.Bits I have done include adding a field (of something) in the foreground, the station building now has some flowers around it, the station master now has a nearly completed vegetable patch, and there are a few more trees. This is a close up of the station veg plot with some potatoes, onions, and some (rather flat) rhubarb amongst other things. I still need to add some beans on one of those frame things. The field of something. I was aiming for sugarbeet! People are even popping up! A group of servicemen await a train. The station building needs a bit of repairing now but I can do that when I do the interior. Julia
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