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I’m detailing my goods depot, something I’ve been looking forward to. As the layout is designed for close-up viewing I’ve been searching for goods items that could pass muster at a reasonably close range. To begin with, here is a selection of crates. I'm afraid it's my usual unholy mix of kitbuilt, scratchbuilt, modified and ready to plunk! Hopefully it will all blend in with a bit of weathering and careful positioning on the layout. First up are these rather nice crate kits from US-based Rusty Stumps (above). The kits are laser cut plywood and come in various types – these are for horizontal crates. They are HO but quite large. The instructions are very good and the kits are easy to build (I used wood glue). If you prefer a plywood side rather than planks, the kit can be modelled inside out. Parts fit together well and with care the lid can be made as a press-fit, meaning you can take it off if you wish to leave it open. Above are the built up kits next to another offering from Rusty Stumps: Ready-made resin versions of the same crates. The latter clean up reasonably well, but I think you’ll agree that the kits are worth the extra effort. As an aside, Rusty Stumps also do a range of resin workshops scenes. I have no particular use for these right now but couldn't resist having a closer look. Back to the crates. This laser-cut high quality card kit is from the German company Kotol, which Job brought to my attention some time ago (thanks again Job!). The products from this company are not cheap, and some of their items are distinctly continental. But it’s attractive stuff for those who like small details, especially as they use wood, cotton and card for their goods items – so you get lots of texture. Above are the Kotol crates built up (I made the front one different just for variety). The kits are a bit fiddly and the card is quite sensitive to glue and scratches. So care is needed. The smaller HO scale was an advantage here, as I couldn’t find any decent small crates or boxes from UK manufacturers The Kotol range is quite varied and has some unusual items (anyone fancy working bicycle lights in H0?). This wood kit for a set of makeshift steps was a quick and pleasant build, and comes with a convenient jig. Scratchbuilding is another option of course. Having built the above kits, I used some of the scrap ply and card to fashion a few extra crates such as the one above. This added to the output from these otherwise somewhat costly kits. The scribing etc does take time, but other than that I would certainly consider scratchbuilding as an alternative in the future. Good old Hornby do these nice ready-made crates (there are others in the package, this is a selection). Some of them are very large and would probably have been dealt with outside the goods depot, not inside. But I find the medium and small ones useful. The one at the rear is as they come, the others have been heavily dry-brushed to add texture and do away with the slightly translucent look. I found this and a couple of other bottle crates in my spares box, and thought it loooked a bit dull. So I decided to have some fun. The result was these three machinery crates from Carr & Sons, a well-known Farthing company. A tad fanciful, but I had a fun evening making them. The sharp-eyed may have noticed that “Carr & Sons" looks suspiciously like “To Carry 10 Tons” on a transfer sheet. As many will know, Carr & Sons were leading manufacturers of round tuits. The one at the bottom is the basic model. The middle one is the advanced version. At the top is another of the company’s products, the square bloke (a development of the regular bloke). PS: I have no connection with any of the above companies - except for Carr & Sons, where I own 51% of the shares ;-)

Well with a deadline looming I should be spending more time getting the layout up to a reasonable standard. However like most things there in always something in the way, and I don't mean the Domestic Overlord The problem is the major jobs I need to complete are those little jobs that just eat up modelling time, and in the case of me and a soldering iron, lead to lots of burnt fingers and industrial language. Still I managed to get the surface of the canal ready, or at least nearly ready, all it needs now is some surface ripples, just to make you think what lurks in the murky depths. All I need to do now is finally finish the canal boats, paint/blend in all the white edges, add some form of loading scene and general clutter. The problems started when I was playing, sorry testing, some of the trains to be used on the layout, and then one of my favourite locomotives a Jubilee decided it was a good time to shed its traction tyres. Not to worry I though, it would give me the chance to finish off weathering one of the 10 coach rakes of Stannier coaches, great no matt black paint. Ha I thought a little thing like this is not going to stop me, I would get my supply of head lamps out and fit them to some of the fleet, and yes you guessed it, they have suddenly vanished, into the black hole modelling. It was at this point that I my safety valves just about lifted in time to stop me exploding The Domestic Overlord noticing my pending apocalyptic rage, suggested a nice day trip to Chester, and a fantastic time was had by both of us, that is until I visited a model shop. Yes you guessed it while looking at endless boxes on shelves, I saw an LMS Ivatt 2-6-0 at a bargain price, and despite the pains in my wallet, I put my hands in my pocket, slapped the cash on the counter and walked out with a much wanted addition to the fleet. Well that's what I would have done if I was not, as people have said "as tight as two coats of paint", I returned home empty handed and wishing I had just splashed the cash God this railway modelling is a fun hobby, until the next time as ever happy modelling

So, it's been a while and a quick update is in order. The photo has brought out all the as yet untouched blemishes, etc after meddling with the Hornby shell. But the progress is there to see. Loco brake rodding, smokebox dart, spare lamp brackets and top rear tender lamp bracket. I still have those pesky lamp brackets to fit on the buffer beams and smokebox top. The connecting rods need to be permanently fixed in place but there will be one more teardown of the wheels and motor before final assembly of the crankpin "nuts". The Hornby shells will be given a thin coat of grey primer which should reveal any remaining imperfections after a final cleaning up. Then off to the work's paint shop. I have the decals (oops, I mean transfers!) but not the brass plates as yet. The two black wires have been connected directly to the motor and everything runs nicely with no binding at all. The motor has been fixed in place so as to clear the interior of the boiler without needing the shaft extension to be cut off. The slow progress has been for a reason - I have become a house painter during the past few weeks. Wednesdays at B&Q (10% senior discount) have been the over-riding priority!

Having been away from modelling for many a year, my interest was rekindled whilst browsing a retailers website and coming across a Bachmann class 37 in large logo blue livery. Not having a layout for around 25 years with the last 12 spent in Bangkok, I was still suitably impressed by the model to purchase and subsequently store in the cupboard. This pattern was repeated over a few years with a collection diesel models starting to grow. The models collected all hark back to the 80's and 90's which is the era in which I grew up. Having lived on the south coast, I was always intrigued by these mystery locos from Eastfield and Inverness with their strange markings and so this is how my collection grew of models grew. I finally took the plunge about a year ago to build myself a small diesel depot layout on which to put the models into context. The layout would be based on somewhere north of the border although this would not stop 'other' locos from turning up, as was the case back then. The depot layout is constructed on 2 boards 1000x500mm joined end to end and is a first experiment to see how much I remember for my modelling youth. I am still very much in the DC era and with not so much technical support available here in Bangkok, I decided to continue along this path.

Part 4 already, and I've not actually touched any metal yet! My thanks to all who have given encouragement by their 'Likes' and a warning not to expect any 'model engineering' in this thread - it's more like cut-out scrap-booking - but I enjoy it and it might lead to a working model. Since my last post, I've re-visited the cab area, so that it can accommodate the rear pair of drivers. On my paper model, I've cut slots in the front of the cab and floor, to allow for the 14.4mm back-to-back separation of 00-gauge wheels. It seems reasonably firm and I can build up the wheel-boxes inside the cab, in the final model. The following early view of the footplate of a Dean 2-4-0 shows the 'look' that I wish to achieve, with its very simple backplate. A more tricky problem is posed by the boiler. It was easy enough to roll a tube of paper to the correct dimensions. After a few trials, I decided to make the tube extend the entire length from the front of the smokebox to the cab. Photographs of the real engine indicate that, although the top of the firebox casing is raised, the sides are flush with the boiler cladding, so I could add the firebox as a 'wrapper', fixed to the sides of the boiler. I'll leave the problem of creating the shaped fillet needed between the firebox and the top of the boiler for later. The immediate problems begin, when trying to fit the boiler assembly between the wheels. As I discovered when building my 'Queen' model, the real boiler diameter scales to something larger than the 00-gauge back-to-back dimension, so some cut-outs are essential. This proposed model raises the additional problem of how to accommodate a motor and drive unit. For this, I turned to the 'High Level' website , from where you can download a very useful 'Planning Sheet', with scale drawings of motors and gearboxes. By copying the relevant drawings and pasting them over my own scale drawings of the engine, It appears that I should be able to accommodate a 'RoadRunner' gearbox with 'Mashima 1220' motor, within the profile of my model. I've also indicated how it should fit within my paper template My plan is to cut away the underside of the boiler, where it will be hidden behind the wheelarches and firebox sides, sufficiently to allow the superstructure to be lowered over the motorised chassis. I have not scratch-built a working chassis before, so intend to keep it as simple as possible. I shall use my kit-built model of a Hudswell-Clarke 0-4-0 (TVR 'S'-class) as a basis for the design. The kit chassis consists of two brass strips, separated by Markits-type spacers. Providing that I can manage to drill the holes in the right places, it does not look too difficult, though when I look at Snitzl Works amazing Wheel Quartering Jigs , I wonder if I might be fooling myself. I feel that I had better turn my attention to trying to build a working 0-4-0 chassis, before I do any more on superstructure design Mike Continue to next part

Freshwater will have more trees than any previous layout I have built, so I wanted to get some planted in time for the Farnham show (and 2mm Scale Association AGM). Previously I have used plastic tree armatures from Heki and Woodland Scenics. These start off as 2D trees, the branches of which need to be bent to produce a not very realistic 3D tree before attaching bits of foliage. This time, I wanted to try new techniques. I had purchased a tree-making kit from Ceynix many years ago, and I have collected some old mains leads to source copper wire for soldering together. I would build one tree using each technique and decide which I liked best. The soldered copper method involves stripping mains cable (multi-core) and then twisting, bending and forming branches. The result is then soldered together, requiring a big iron, clips or pegs, or asbestos fingers. I got as far a the second branch before I gave up. The Ceynix method uses short lengths of florist's wire (a fine stiff wire with green plastic coating) bundled together and bound with florist's green sticky tape. Branches are formed with two or three wires bound together. Branches are then gradually bundled together until a complete tree is formed. The tree then needs to be coated with air drying clay. This is a long slow process. I used a wooden tea stirrer and a pot of water to aid the procedure. When dry, the tree is painted, a quick spray of grey primer and then thin washes of grey-brown shades. The fine twigs and branches are represented by what is called folinet. This is a fine black jumble of synthetic fibres which has to be teased out before gluing in place. I have been told that this is no longer manufactured, so an alternative solution will have to be found soon. To finish off, a spray of aerosol mounting glue is followed by sprinkling with fine foliage. I found this method much better, and liked the results, and managed to complete 12 trees in time for the show. No matter what method is used to make trees, a good book of tree pictures is essential to produce realistic trees. Would anyone build and paint a loco, coach, or even a wagon, just from memory? Getting the general shape, density of branches and colour tones right really brings a tree to life. The first photo shows a sycamore tree, with the taped bundles of florist's wire formed into branches. The last few millimeters of each branch is a single strand of the florist's wire without tape. The oak tree in the background is the real thing, The next photo shows the coating of air drying clay on a couple of smaller trees. And finally, the small copse of 12 trees planted on the layout. The sycamore is in the centre, with a coppiced silver birch to the left, and several small hazel bushes behind. Below the canopy of the main trees, some small alder saplings (single pieces of florist's wire with foliage added) are poking up through the ground cover. So, 12 trees do not go very far on a rural layout. I will be building trees for many weeks to come.

Hello! I 've had a Bachmann three truck 80 ton Shay in HO in quite a few years now. The original: The Shay has experienced quite a few revisions, among other things, the exchange of the cracked plastic gears with metal gears from NWSL . The largest revision was when I had gotten tired of the lousy tracking of the middle truck. That was when I rebuilt it to a two truck version: (see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/638/entry-5254-part-6-shay-conversion/ ) Now I've always wanted a narrow gauge Shay. Luckily I found a conversion kit made by NWSL . They are really a big help for us tinkerers! The kit included new axles , bolsters , brake beams, shims and installation tools for the axels. I disassembled the original trucks in a flash, and in another flash the new parts were fitted. The hardest thing was to push the wheels on to the new axels. How it looks now : A small film from the first test drive : Throughout a fun conversion that gives a super Shay in HOn3!

Not much has developed on the 3D printed Arley front over the last couple of weeks, but with a few nights away from home looming, CAD design does make for a tidy way to create modelling output in a hotel, so watch this space! I have had chance to have a good look around the real thing however. On Sunday Arley was basking in spots of sunshine and a slice of lovely branchline-ish ness... Modelling challenges include the picnic area, which I know very well.. the site is busy and requires a number of less glamourous additions like big bins etc.. which are well hidden, and will want to be equally well hidden on the model: Cake! (& excellent sandwiches) Whenever I see this building I feel hungry... I also took a couple of pictures of the rarely photographed 'river' side of the station building, though from a respectful distance as this is the more private side of the residential part of the station building. I wonder if there is an etiquette to modelling 'from life' when dealing with a private house? I'd been wondering about this when pondering a model of nearby Northwood Halt, another scene dominated by a substantial private dwelling. With that in mind, I'll not reproduce the pictures here, but use them to get the one side of the building near enough right. The station is of course host to a procession of exotic machinery and long trains. That said, it looks very 'proper' with a 14xx (Sunday just gone) or a railcar (Railbus gala a few years ago). This might point to a way of creating a small diorama based on the station building without the need (yet) for a large layout around it... but ready for extension...

The layout design is intended to maximize the locos that can be on shed at anyone time with the original design attached here. Subsequent playing around with the track and points lead to a modfied version of the attached, albeit with the same overall feeling. I know the old adage of less is more in terms of running track but I wanted to create a busy and claustrophobic feeling to the depot and also to get as many engines on shed as possible at any given time.

I had assembled the tender chassis originally using the Alan Gibson hornblocks supplied in the kit. This were the units with a tiny spring which provides some downward force but where the hornblock itself is designed to sit on the end of a bolt which passes through the top of the horn guide. The theory is that you can adjust the bolts to get the ride height for each axle correct. From my experience I find this very difficult and the resulting ride is very 'hard' and it is too easy to have one axle have either too much or too little load. Techniques have moved on and these days people rave about the simplicity of 'continuous springy beams'. This is basically a posh way to describe a piece of wire which supports all the bearing. The clever bit is in the positioning of the pivot points for the wire but helpfully there is a spreadsheet available which make this simple. For this tender I purchased some High Level kits hornblocks and spring support tags together with Alan Gibson 'shoulderless' handrail knobs which make the pivots for the wire. Rebuilding the chassis only took an evening and the resulting transformation in the ride quality was remarkable. This picture clearly shows the spring wire, the handrail knob pivots and the socket which is used to connect the motor power from the DCC chip in the tender. The construction of the body has come on too. I was able to purchase from Alan Gibson a lost wax casting for the front springs which I used instead of the white metal one originally supplied in the kit. This has meant that I could drill holes in the foot plate and solder the spring in place rather than try to stick white metal to the foot plate. These springs are situation in a position where I could just see them get knocked off with handling. Obviously the motor isn't usually at that angle so the next picture has a little bit of wood just to hold the motor at the correct angle! Friday evening also saw the lamp irons go on the front of the foot plate and then yesterday I made the pipe run down the foot plate and fitted the pipes and coupling to the buffer beam. At this point I was looking through photographs in various books and realized that the combination I have modelled with the side window cab also had a different arrangement of safety valves. This meant adding an extra casting and reattaching the valves. This has the benefit of meaning the locomotive now has a slightly different boiler in terms of its look to my existing Gibson built J15. It also means I have tied it down to a specific locomotive 62781 which is handy as this is one of the smokebox door numbers supplied in the kit! This evening has been spent giving the body work a good clean with fibre-glass brush, Cif and a paintbrush. The downside is bits of fibreglass in the fingers but on the positive side no bits fell off in the process. So I'll let it dry out now and take some pictures of it all assembled tomorrow. David

It's been a long time since there were any updates to the viaduct project (and no I haven't done any more to that footbridge). This has been due to a variety of non-modelling issues for both John and myself. Anyway, we're back looking to rebuild some momentum. This weekend we have made significant progress in conceptual planning of the final presentation format (of which more in due course). The main thing was to decide how high to have the track, bearing in mind that it will be different (higher) for the viaduct on its own compared with when it's exhibited with other modules. This has been done, and the track level will be at 1.40 m off the floor for the viaduct solo, and 1.15 m otherwise. The next thing was to determine depth of scenery at the back to the backscene, and the height of the backscene, taking into account likely viewing distances and eyelines. With some experimentation we were able to reduce the depth of board behind the layout without seeming to compromise the illusion. This is the real view through the viaduct: And these are the preliminary test images from today's experiments: Don't worry about the missing balustrades and pavilions - these were never permanently attached and have been removed pending final detailing and fettling. The backscene image is based on photos from the actual location. Obviously the final versions will be in (muted) colour with some 'real' vegetation in front. We'll decide on the actual sizes later on when we are nearer completion.