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The Great Bear

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About The Great Bear

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    Railways (of course), photography, music (listening not playing), computing

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  1. You can get a very wide range of screws etc from Accu
  2. Ah well, I was only out by 20 in the number I made up when requesting custom set of transfers for the set ends then... (Am adding an extra third to the set anyway as I think has been discussed was done post war.)
  3. The combination of GWR post war livery but with smokebox number strikes me as strange and could deter sales. It's putting me of buying a post war one in addition to a shirt button one.
  4. I've now got my bodged Bulldog complete, with the Bachmann Earl chassis and my own 3d printed loco body The smokebox saddle joint to the chassis and the bit infront is a bit of mess, the latter as the 3d printed bits were too fragile so this was bodged with some plasticard. That apart I'm pretty content with the result. In due course Sir Arthur Yorke will get a heavy does of weathering to suit rather run down post war condition as seen in these pictures https://rcts.zenfolio.com/steam-gwr/bulldog/hA0FF5B85#ha0ff5b85 and https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Steam-Engine-Photo-GWR-Dean-Designed-4-4-0-Locomotive-No-3418-Sir-Arthur-Yorke-/183942427144?hash=item2ad3d2b208, the freight turn in the latter picture likely what I have in mind for eventual run in timetable on layout. All the prototype discussion in this thread has been most informative. All the best Jon
  5. If you google Avonmouth banana you should get some results of interest eg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0VDKhkswU8 Also covered in GWRJ 94. I think I have that one, whether I can find it is another matter.
  6. Here's why I've got to with my bodged Bulldog. Getting the fit on the bottom of the firebox and the cab proved a pain, even with several prints. I didn't have the model quite deep enough, shy by 0.5mm or so. Rather than do yet another print, a strips of plasticard to fill the gap, not done very well. Also I dropped the model so the frame infront of the smokebox saddle on one side has again been bodged with plasticard. Amongst other ham fisted modelling is to much glue on the handrail knobs - drilled slightly too big hole in boiler, didn't have the right size bit - and too heavy application of the aerosol primer I think. So it could be done better and at some point in the future I may try another print but for now (to make me feel like I am making some progress!) I am running with this one, painting it. Oh and I need to find the bogie. I'm sure I put that somewhere for safe keeping...
  7. I've not considered printing on end I have to say. My printer would be large enough to do it (for a loco, not a coach). I suspect that I'd run into problems with supports for overhangs. Print quality is worse at the bottom where you have to support the model lift it off the build plate. I get good results printing at about 40 degree inclination, with the cab at the build plate end (which is the top as the model is printed upside down, pulling it out of the resin vat). This then means the smokebox is at the free end with no supports to get in the way / need cutting off. Have a look at my thread on printing coaches and you'll see how models are orientated. The latest print I have, the one I am running with is a bit better than the last one shown, there were some little deformations in that one because the film vat was marked which reflected in the print. New film has fixed that.
  8. Showing my ignorance of the real thing: what's the thing hanging down from the running plate by the rear driving wheel?
  9. It was banned in the mid 1920s, as discussed in this threaed
  10. Hello, does anyone have any pictures of the MERG brackets for mounting servos for semaphore signals. In particular it is the ones for multiple servo mounting I am curious in and how much space they take up and installation details?
  11. Could one simply fit bigger wheels to the Bachmann chassis, if they fit in the splashers? Then some styrene to deepen buffer beam and then remove buffers etc and fit new ones at lower height? That might be a project even I could accomplish (though not necessarily well!)
  12. I'll start by declaring that I am rather ham-fisted. I wanted to swap coupling rods between two Bachmann Earl chassis I have, to get fluted rods on the right one (one being in GWR livery, other one in BR black being used to make a Bulldog). I got the crankpins out and the rods off using pliers, which was rather foolish as I cannot get the blasted pins back in to the outside cranks. Push fitting the Bachmann pins once removed looks to be difficult. Is there a nack to this or better tools to use, a couple of the pins have gone flying across the railway room never to be seen again in all likelihood and as well I stopped or the model may have followed suit in my frustration! Or maybe use some other (Gibson?) parts? Any advise gratefully received as I was getting rather frustrated and wishing I had started this task. All the best Jon
  13. When building my layout I found the old style track's thin base to be an advantage when you used in conjunction with tracklay sticky underlay. It was a doddle to lay and ballast track and get a neat result, sprinkle thin layer of ballast onto the underlay, rather than messing around with conventional ballasting, dribbling diluted glue etc. I've never understood why more didn't try this approach, well apart from the cost of the tracklay, but even then for the time saving worth it IMHO.
  14. Great photos - again! Don't be hard on yourself, they look almost perfect to me - way better than my efforts - and if you hadn't mentioned it I wouldn't have noticed! As for the canopy, again not sure people would notice. If I recall right the underside of canopies was painted light stone, so the unpainted wood isn't a million miles amiss in tone.
  15. I've been making some progress with a 3d printed body. Here's where I've gotten to. The body is based on 3418 Sir Arhur Yorke, a Reading loco. As I model post war my choice of prototypes is more limited. Of the sheds with likely duties on my layout Reading and Didcot both had Bulldogs post war, but most of the Reading ones were Birds. Plus a named loco helps hide the motor cut out. So the choice narrows down. The fit between the new body and the chassis is as good as I'm going to get it. Some filler will be needed in some places and how to hold the body down at the rear, the front can be screwed down like the Dukedog body. The photos do how a couple of little niggles in the print, some diagnonal marks I think from marks on the FEP film on the printer resin vat. I may have one last try, once I've changed that. There is a slight bow upward in the body at the front from the saddle forward, which is something in the printign process doing this but I haven't been able to resolve. The marks on the smokebox were from supports I added to try and fix this but didn't help. Once I've changed the FEP I'll have one last go, but if that doesn't improve things this one would still do; better than my roughshod effort with the K's body anyway.
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