Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

28 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I had to fix mine - it arrived with a broken draw pin. Hornby sent a replacement tender body which required soldering then re soldering the tender wiring. Re soldering is doable with household soldering irons, but does require patience, good light and a steady hand.
  2. I have one of the Cura i3 Plus printers sold via Aldi (really a Wanhao i3 Plus) and gotten immense use out of it for all sorts of things - including modelling. Wanhao (via their AliExpress store) even provide reasonable support for it. It has met my expectations, although when things go wrong it can take a bit to diagnose. For someone who is happy to get their hands dirty to maintain one, I would recommend one.
  3. As an educated guess - an insulated wheel is touching the body when going around the bend. Some insulation tape (or even non-conductive paint) positioned against the chassis at the location will probably address the issue.
  4. Has anyone tried to use a XBOX Kinect modified so it can be used on a PC to scan? I'd be curious if it could scan the more detailed components our hobby demands
  5. Excellent news - worth the persistence. You have me wondering where that U shaped part was sitting and what it is for, You can make a screwdriver tip magnetic by stoking one with a magnet a few times.
  6. When I have experienced this in the past, I removed the electric motor and tested it by itself. This also allows the wheels and motion to be tested in isolation. In my case the electric motor was the issue (Black 5 engine in body version). With my fingers I turned it as much as I could till resistance was felt. I then decided to take a risk and forced it a bit more. Crunch... then free running. I then ran it on 12v power for a little while noting some puffs of a redish powder from the small air vents when I started. The motor has been 100% ever since and this was perhaps 7
  7. As for a different storage approach - over Christmas I repurposed an old metal tool/storage cabinet with a number (13) of wooden drawers. The drawers can slide in and out freely on kitchen style drawer runners (roller bearings). From my perspective, it has the advantage of protecting my engines and rolling stock from accidental damage, yet allows me easy access to them as required.
  8. I have found another picture which shows better the overall layout from the turntable side. I'll revise my track plan accordingly. I am wondering what the narrow gauge wagons were used for at the shelter. Perhaps coal was unloaded from normal coal wagons into the small wagons which were then taken to the coaling plant - for feeding into the elevator.
  9. I have found a few more photos that have proven to be useful
  10. Continuing to chip away at the layout design - I laid out some indicative track - to get a feel of the end result. Please note the baseboards are yet to be cut to size and I grabbed what ever flex track I came to in the box - much of which has been reused and damaged. I'll be using flex track in better condition when I start actually laying track.
  11. Please pardon any ignorance on my part. Would Wheatley's helpful answer change - if we make the layout story a fictional preserved depot in the current era based on the old (1930-47) Holyhead track plan, run by a group who maintains preserved LMS locos for running? i.e. do preserved railway sheds have signals installed?
  12. Building on the most helpful and useful advice provided, I have continued to refine the layout. The current prototype is shown in the AnyRail graphic below, Comments and thoughts are most welcome. Today I took delivery of the LMS Sheds in Camera by John Hooper. I was hoping for some new pictures of Holyhead depot. Sadly just he one and no new angles - at least the shed is pre-the concrete roof alteration. Midland Region BR Steam MPDs Series Paul Bolger is coming in the mail. Hopefully some additional photos will be included. Fingers Xed. I have also st
  13. Really appreciated Harlequin. It will take me a little while to digest the plan. Lots to ponder. I like your thinking. While I have you the baseboard will be 17mm thick plywood, glued with phenol formaldehyde resin. I do not believe there be a need for under structure. The wood is usually used for concrete form work and is marine grade. It is left over from another project of mine. Specs here is anyone is interested https://www.bunnings.com.au/carter-holt-harvey-1200-x-595mm-17mm-f14-formrite-formply_p0390167 Also - everything on the left is wrapping around the me
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.