snowy1051

Thanks to all for the info and advice. Excellent. Tho' I think this loco is now destined for the display cabinet.

Hi, I have a 40+ year old Cotswold L & Y 2-4-2 tank that now runs very slowly in one direction but ok in the other. I've had her apart a couple of times and just cannot find a reason for her lethargic running. Any advice regarding improving her running would be greatly appreciated. thank you. BTW, I didn't build it, it was a present from my wife.

Many thanks to all who contributed info. Greatly appreciated.

Hi, I'm just starting to convert a Hornby 48xx 0-4-2 tankie to a 58xx. Not too difficult I know, but just how many 58's were fitted with top feed? I have pictures of 11 of them and so far only 5815 was fitted with top feed. Were there any more please and about when would top feeds have been fitted? My era is BR early fifties. Many thanks for any info.

Hello, my old Tri ang 0-6-0 chassis has just started to spark at the centre driving where the screw holds the coupling rod. The sparks appear to shoot out from under the coupling rod. Then naturally the loco stops. Can I remedy this please?

My thanks to all for the excellent info re Tri-ang chassis. Super stuff.

Can some kind person please tell me if the Hornby 4-4-0's, R350 the SR L1 and R450 the LMS 2P, share the same chasssis. Many thanks.

Many, many thanks to all who have replied. Such truly excellent comments and ideas. Thank you all. Now to the drawing board.

I wonder if I may be pointed in the right direction for the track layout plans of both Brynamman stations please. I have long been intrigued with the thought of a layout with nothing but 0--6-0 tank engines and Jintys running a pull push service. I have an idea that for shunting at Brynamman East (Midland) it was fly shunting, as there was, I believe, no convenient run round. Many thanks for any info which will be gratefully received.

Many, many thanks for the info. Very good of you all. Cheers.

I have an old Hornby LMS 2P 4-4-0 which I believe is the R450. Recently I took it all apart to have the pick up plate repaired. Now I have it back and I simply cannot remember how to reassemble the chassis. (silly me for not photographing it first!). I have checked the Hornby Railways Collectors web page but no joy with that. I realize that there arn't too many options for reassembly and am I correct in assuming the pick ups pick up from the right hand side driving wheels? Any help would be very gratefully received as my fingers nowadays are reluctant to do as I bid! Many, many thanks.

I recently purchased an old Mainline Jubilee, it looks nice and runs. The previous owner has removed the front coupling ( it appears to have been cut off) and I would like to replace it due to my diagram for the loco having a run round and shunt in it's days work. I also have an even older boxed Mainline Jubilee that doesn't run due to mazak plagued driving wheels. So it has become a source of spares. But I cannot work out how to remove the front bogie! Maybe I have missed the Bl****ng obvious, I would have thought that such a swap would have been easy! Another thought comes to mind, as the mazak infected loco has probably never turned a wheel, it was a gift to my son many, many years ago and has remained boxed ever since, might it be worth attempting to swap the motors over? Any relevent info welcome. Thank you.

I feel I am losing the plot. recently I purchased an early Hornby 0-6-0 chassis, the one with the motor over the rear axle. (for the R52 Jinty and the R251 3F). Anyway, as it would not run through newish Peco Streamline code 100 points I decided to reprofile the wheel flanges and adjust the back to backs. I removed all except the wheels. Did the flanges by putting said chassis in a vice and hand filing the flanges to suit. Please dont all of you say WHAT! :) it worked, I then saw to the back to backs. All was good re running through said points. So I started to reassemble the chassis but didn't get very far. After putting the connecting rods back the chassis would only travel ¾ of a turn. I seem to recall this happening before but for the life of me I cannot think of the remedy. Now the chassis stands with just the left side rods on and it will run ok, but as soon as I put the other rods on, only ¾ of a turn then a dead stand. Please, what have I done wrong? I've compared it to an even earlier Tri-ang chassis which is a perfect runner (even with the solid wheels). Now this older chassis has the centre axle balance weights 180 degrees off from the the two outer axles, but this new chassis has all the balance weights in line. Please help......many thanks.

Many thanks, for the info. excellent stuff as ever. Cheers.

I have a Bachmann Collett goods, the one with the ROD tender and it wont pull the skin off a rice pudding. At the moment i just use it on my one coach locals, but would like it to pull more than just a dozen wagons. Is there a way I can add more weight? I have yet to remove the body as my fingers don't always go where I want them to! Many thanks for any info.