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I am very sorry about what has happened to you. These kind of life events can leave lasting scars. I truely hope you can find a way forward.

Pardon any ignorance on my part, but would the Ultrascale "Hornby 'Black 5 and Grange' final drive gear" be of use, or something similar? Please note, I am not sure of the new Duchess final drive specifications and have not used the Ultrascale product yet - but I am considering an Ultrascale option as I have a 8F and Royal Scot with split drive cogs and have been looking for options.

Seeking some advice. I have 2 Thomas 0-6-0 chassis and would like to change the centre tyre of one to the other. Is there an easy or tried and true method to remove the metal tyre from the plastic wheel centre? The reason I want to do this is I prefer the darker blue wheel centres of the older Thomas to the newer version with lighter colouring. I dislike the traction tyre that the model with darker blue wheels has and would like to have a proper flanged wheel fitted. The older Hornby models from the 70s and 80s seem to require a light tap with a hammer (or similar) - but the newer ones seem to be joined more securely.

I have one each of the Hornby Stanier R.2635 and Fowler 4P R.2224 engines and have owned from new. Neither have a spring or washer. They run just fine without them too. I also own the Bachman Fairburn 4P 32-875 - it does have a spring and washer. Hopefully this helps a little

I had to fix mine - it arrived with a broken draw pin. Hornby sent a replacement tender body which required soldering then re soldering the tender wiring. Re soldering is doable with household soldering irons, but does require patience, good light and a steady hand.

I have one of the Cura i3 Plus printers sold via Aldi (really a Wanhao i3 Plus) and gotten immense use out of it for all sorts of things - including modelling. Wanhao (via their AliExpress store) even provide reasonable support for it. It has met my expectations, although when things go wrong it can take a bit to diagnose. For someone who is happy to get their hands dirty to maintain one, I would recommend one.

As an educated guess - an insulated wheel is touching the body when going around the bend. Some insulation tape (or even non-conductive paint) positioned against the chassis at the location will probably address the issue.

Has anyone tried to use a XBOX Kinect modified so it can be used on a PC to scan? I'd be curious if it could scan the more detailed components our hobby demands

Some more photos

Excellent news - worth the persistence. You have me wondering where that U shaped part was sitting and what it is for, You can make a screwdriver tip magnetic by stoking one with a magnet a few times.

When I have experienced this in the past, I removed the electric motor and tested it by itself. This also allows the wheels and motion to be tested in isolation. In my case the electric motor was the issue (Black 5 engine in body version). With my fingers I turned it as much as I could till resistance was felt. I then decided to take a risk and forced it a bit more. Crunch... then free running. I then ran it on 12v power for a little while noting some puffs of a redish powder from the small air vents when I started. The motor has been 100% ever since and this was perhaps 7 years ago.

As for a different storage approach - over Christmas I repurposed an old metal tool/storage cabinet with a number (13) of wooden drawers. The drawers can slide in and out freely on kitchen style drawer runners (roller bearings). From my perspective, it has the advantage of protecting my engines and rolling stock from accidental damage, yet allows me easy access to them as required.

I have found another picture which shows better the overall layout from the turntable side. I'll revise my track plan accordingly. I am wondering what the narrow gauge wagons were used for at the shelter. Perhaps coal was unloaded from normal coal wagons into the small wagons which were then taken to the coaling plant - for feeding into the elevator.

I have found a few more photos that have proven to be useful

Thoughts, comments, suggestions are most welcome.

Continuing to chip away at the layout design - I laid out some indicative track - to get a feel of the end result. Please note the baseboards are yet to be cut to size and I grabbed what ever flex track I came to in the box - much of which has been reused and damaged. I'll be using flex track in better condition when I start actually laying track.

Please pardon any ignorance on my part. Would Wheatley's helpful answer change - if we make the layout story a fictional preserved depot in the current era based on the old (1930-47) Holyhead track plan, run by a group who maintains preserved LMS locos for running? i.e. do preserved railway sheds have signals installed?

Building on the most helpful and useful advice provided, I have continued to refine the layout. The current prototype is shown in the AnyRail graphic below, Comments and thoughts are most welcome. Today I took delivery of the LMS Sheds in Camera by John Hooper. I was hoping for some new pictures of Holyhead depot. Sadly just he one and no new angles - at least the shed is pre-the concrete roof alteration. Midland Region BR Steam MPDs Series Paul Bolger is coming in the mail. Hopefully some additional photos will be included. Fingers Xed. I have also started to think about signaling. What would have been prototypical in the mid 30s to the end of the LMS? In the photos I have of Holyhead i cannot spot any typical LMS semiphore signals - but my photos so far are rather poor quality - so I may be missing them. So what was used in the depot area? Were they like the DCC Concepts ground signals? Where would they have been located?

Really appreciated Harlequin. It will take me a little while to digest the plan. Lots to ponder. I like your thinking. While I have you the baseboard will be 17mm thick plywood, glued with phenol formaldehyde resin. I do not believe there be a need for under structure. The wood is usually used for concrete form work and is marine grade. It is left over from another project of mine. Specs here is anyone is interested https://www.bunnings.com.au/carter-holt-harvey-1200-x-595mm-17mm-f14-formrite-formply_p0390167 Also - everything on the left is wrapping around the mechanism for my garage door - hence the extra jutting out part. The challenge here is it will be restively inaccessible due to large steel arms and springs immediately in front. I do like the idea of a low relief engine sheds. Perhaps the one on the far back can be a little longer. I do have a larger Y point in good condition (ST-247) and a double slip in average condition (SL-90). I even have a spare engine lift. Going through my spare track box, I found 4 Piko points. They are large (55220 & 55221) and 2x are 3 ways (55225). These were given to me a while back and have no idea what they are like to use - and mix with Peco 100. They seem to require Piko point motors. Any thoughts on these? All are in good condition.

Hi Harlequin. Thank you again for the input. To answer a couple of your open questions - the bulge around the turntable was trying to replicate - given space limitations - some of the entry track to the historic Holyhead depot. I have included the Depot's track plan that I have been working off to further converstaion. I do rather like how the crossover near the real turntable looks. The lines to the right of the turntable go no where the one below the turntable should be to the main line. Interesting point regarding the reverse curve. I was thinking I need to get the 2 tracks parallel around the coaling tower (Ratio 547 Coaling Tower looks the go to for this). But you are 100% correct - perhaps better placement of the track on the turntable should be able to eliminate this aspect. Also your points regarding the size of the points is well made - I agree. But I have a budget constraint. I'll see what other spares I have around. I think I have a medium Y around around that may be serviceable to try in that location or another SL-91. More iteration. And thanks once again for the feedback. It is excellent to get new perspective - to mull things over.

I am sorry to read that - damage like that can be so annoying. You have my sympathy. Perhaps a few emails to businesses like Paters Spares, Hattons, Rails etc may be useful as they may have one of the silver a4 tenders as parts. Otherwise it is all about being patient on ebay (or equivalent) - looking for another one that has either been parted out or is similarly in need of repair in a different area.

Again - thanking everyone in advance for their feedback. I have tried a number of iterations and permutations - with the layout below having some appeal. Given the advice received, I have based this one on Holyhead. If I go this way, it may have to be a 'what if' some benefactor bought the site and set up a preserved steam depot running historic and new build engines as a 'true' model looks rather difficult to achieve given my baseboard constraints. As it is - I will need a 'bulge' around the turntable. I am yet to fully test if this will be a big issue or if it can be accommodated. So - I'd appreciate any feedback about the practicality of the following (and I do no thinks are not joined up - I will be using flex track for all but the points)

I have now found via a web search (source and date unknown) the following picture that provides a useful broad view of the site - shows coaling stage and water column. Seems to be an older shed on the site to the typical LMS concrete roof version in the more recent pictures I have foundl. Closeup photos would be really helpful, but seem to be in short supply sadly - or I need to search deeper.