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Jub45565

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  • Location
    Bristol
  • Interests
    P4 West Yorkshire (Ilkley shed, hopefully Embsay one day circa 1958)
    0-14 North Wales (FR/WHR/PQR) & West Yorkshire (freelance)
    1'11.5" North Wales

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  1. I was wondering about asking G&H about a dropped board, so good to know they have the design ready to go!
  2. Indeed, there are college courses for that. This photo allegedly originated in advertising for one.
  3. The tanks are still available from Brassmasters (not all their 24/25 bits are) http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/bachmann_class_24_and_25.htm
  4. Good find on that D1745 drawing Mol. Sorry, I can't help with the sidelines kits - I find them 75% overscale ;-) One thing to note is that it looks like a Met Cam coach - that underframe doesn't have the standard LMS trussing but a much narrower frame around the battery boxes - not that these appear to be in place in your MSC photo, but any residual bracketry or rivet lines would be different.
  5. Hi Mol, The best starting point for a D1745 might be the D1692/9. Photo of the 4mm sides from Comet here: https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/m4s/ and is in the sidelines list for a 7mm version: http://www.sidelinescoaches.co.uk/lms.htm It has less beading than the D1745, but that may well have been an alteration over time rather than a diagram difference. I'm separated from my LMS coaching stock books at the moment so can't immediately look up the differences. Cheers, Pete
  6. Has anyone got any experience with this 0.5mm plastic? It says its laser safe, and I've been meaning to buy some for a while to test but haven't got round to it - but the discussion of similar materials has prompted me into life. https://kitronik.co.uk/products/polypropylene-sheet-05mm-x-1050mm-x-750mm
  7. No problem! So I cut a slot with a fret saw, not all the way across but enough to be a guide. Then assemble the wheelset as normal, and use the slot as a guide for a drill and drill through the plastic wheel - and then insert a bit of brass/NS rod and epoxy it in (or varnish/paint if the wheelsets can't be dropped out - though the epoxy option fills the slot). This is a variation on drilling the axle too, but drilling at an angle is much more difficult for most mortals and I don't think makes much of a difference to the finished article.
  8. I've taken to cutting a angled slot in the end of the axle, and using that as a guide to drill the wheel and pin it in place (once happy with quartering). I have a set near my workbench part way through the process at the moment so can take a couple of photos later if my words don't make it clear.
  9. A lot of early gauges were defined by rail centres, rather than between rails. It is obviously easier to lay with a gauge bar between the rails - and if you get worn rail or buy new heavier rail then the centre measurement would change. It makes a bit more sense in quarry scenarios with double flanged wheels loose on the axles, though the absolute gauge is a bit less of a concern there. Then when you change to defining by between rails it just changes the stated gauge, rather than any actual change in the dimensions used. The FR is technically 597mm.
  10. The clearance thing is a bit of an odd one - as across the face of the wheels EM and P4 are near enough the same (EM is a slightly narrower gauge, but with a slightly fatter wheel). It comes down to what we want to do, and what we enjoy doing - this is a hobby so we shouldn't really do things due to other people's opinions on how to spend our spare time. I wouldn't personally choose to ruin a walk by playing golf, but will happily meet friends who play golf for a pint afterwards... *misty eyes* I went P4, as when making the decision I was looking at a 108, Ivatt 2 tank and 3F as a base set of models. The 108 was Branchlines drop in sets for either option. Bachmann hadn't released their 3F, so it was a London Road models kit again equally applicable to either, and the Bachmann split chassis for the Ivatt I would choose to replace either way too. I don't mind spending some extra time fettling, and do enjoy that extra bit of detailing - so the choice, for me, was easy.
  11. Reawakening this, for the same kit, I've got an OK start without annealing - but the NS is a bit stiff to sort out properly. I know annealing can be done on a gas hob, but how long do one heat it for? I presume the aim is to hold it in the tip of the flame? This is the current state of play:
  12. I placed an order online on Wednesday, and it arrived safely this morning - sage worked fine then. Top class service, thanks Andrew!
  13. Thought I should check in and say hello! Autumn got quite busy, as I decided to move house - and in doing so Ilkley is currently at my parents and with the world as it is I'm not sure when it will arrive! The move went smoothly enough though, and while the house was built c1850 there isn't a massive amount that needs immediate attention, so the workbench is back up and running. I'm currently working on a Judith Edge Stanier 3P, to appear as 40112. The planned modelling room is the one room with some work to do, with a bank of render around the chimney rather than proper flashing and this has let some damp in. The room is 14'6" x 11', so gives some scope once Ilkley is 'finished'. By the time P4 curves are taken into account I'm not sure a proper roundy roundy is particularly viable other than as a basic test track (especially with a beam near one corner too) - but I'm not getting myself too distracted with such options yet a while anyway!
  14. I used an Alan Gibson backhead - though 247 developments also do one. There are various other fittings from Alan Gibson which could be used - smokebox door, whistle, chimney, buffers, push pull equipment if applicable - depending on the loco you're doing, and how far you wish to go.
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