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  1. Thanks to both. I've never used microswitches. From what you say, I think they might be worth investigating.
  2. I wonder if members can cast light on a strange phenomenon I encounter from time to time. I have ten electrofrog points crammed on to a 5ft by 20 inch layout (00 gauge, Peco point motors, CDU fitted). Sometimes, at the start of a session - it's always at the start, after an interval of at least 12 hours since the last one - I find one of the points is dead - that is, the motor throws it across all right but the loco stalls on it. it's usually a different point every time but there are one or two repeat offenders. But then after a few minutes and a bit of switching the point back and forth t
  3. I'd like to pick up on Grif's and Barclay's contributions. I've got a steel calliper and a 6-inch steel rule that are both decades old. Over time, they've got so discoloured - I read somewhere it's the acid in your sweat that does it - that I now have difficulty reading the markings. I'd have bought replacements long ago if I knew what to buy that wouldn't discolour in the same way, be as robust as what I have and isn't too expensive. I'm also interested in the rival merits of the calliper and the micrometer. Members' observations and recommendations would be most welcome
  4. Tho I'm no DIY type, I was so frustrated by this problem that I made myself one of these; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHCyHRWCvUc Looks like an alien from a video game, doesn't it? You can get the coolant pipe very cheaply on ebay. I made an immovable base with a sandwich of roofer's lead sheet between two sheets of ply, and only fitted two arms, anchored by Milliput. The shrink wrap is a good idea if you're concerned about damaging delicate items. Do zap the inane music track before you start or it'll drive you mad.
  5. Latest contributions much appreciated. My layout is small but it's all points, so I need all the advice I can get. The way forward appears to be: nickel silver joiners sawn-off enough to slide fully on to one rail-end or the other then pushed across the join, which takes care of the alignment problem. Cut off one side of the insulation joiners just short of the pip in the middle and try to finaigle them on at the same time - failing that, plasticard in the gaps. Then solder - solid across the track ends or use droppers. The track pins go in last. I assume that as my layout resides in a ce
  6. My grateful thanks to all who chipped in. It's one of those problems, isn't it? The solution's obvious, really - but only after someone's taken the trouble to spell it out to you; the joiners serve two separable functions - dealing with the current and aligning the tracks. The alignment can be left just to track pins, but as Harold emphasises, it has to be done ultra-precisely, and perhaps using a few extra to make sure. And the current can be carried by soldered wires or cut off by a bit of plasticard or just leaving a gap.
  7. I need to replace a Peco Electrofrog point (00 gauge, medium radius, with PL10 motor); the trouble is, there are other Electrofrog points joined to three exits, all face to face with them, and I can't think of a way of inserting the new point without tearing out the other three - a prospect I don't want even to think about. The problem is, now I've taken the old one out there isn't enough wiggle room length-wise to slide in the rail joiners - 4 insulated, 2 metal - and if you're familiar with Pecos you'll know that you can only push joiners on to them for a certain way. Oh, and the whole
  8. My rather belated thanks to all contributors. The main problem it seems to me is the angle at which you're forced to work to keep control, not far off 90 degrees to the surface you're working on, so most files and sticks aren't suitable. Dagworth: I thought the wet and dry would come off with repeated wettings but I now find that ordinary Evostik will keep it on ad inf. Hibelroad: the glass fibre pen is a clear alternative but it gives me the Itch very badly, and I can't seem to get on with gloves. Enterprising: this looks promising. I don't live too far
  9. Not for the first time, I've come up against the problem of sanding - in my present case a poor paint job - areas of a few square mils too small and enclosed to use my fingers and a piece of abrasive paper with any real precision. It's particularly hard to get into corners properly. At the moment I'm using a length of stripwood 5mm square to one end of which I stick a tiny square of abrasive paper. It does the job, but I find myself all the time having to cut off the bit of abrasive when it gets clogged or worn and replace it, and I have a lot of these areas to do. It must be a common
  10. After some damage, I made a mess - as you can see from the photo - of repainting the driver's end of my Bachmann 00 BR crimson and cream autocoach. I think I can remedy everything in time except that I just can't think of a way of neatly re-doing the two black linings above and below the crimson stripe at the top. It's a distinctive flat-topped curve across an angled bow-fronted end that I haven't seen on any other stock and I can't find any transfers on line that would do the job. For me, a lining pen would be out. Does anyone know of a transfer out there I've missed, perhaps for another typ
  11. I've always avoided ballasting - putting all that water, grit and glue into intimate proximity to electrics and tiny mechanisms is just asking for it, right? God knows, there's been plenty of agonised testimony to that on this forum over the years. And I have a shunting layout, all points and no long runs. I always thought there must be a better way. Admittedly there's the always-inventive Chris Nevard's use of Das to create that ash-ballast look. However, a long time ago on this forum, a member of this fraternity, 28XX by pseudonym, mentioned that he uses DIY ultra-fine filler for th
  12. GWR & BWs: Thanks so much for your posts on availability. BWs ; thanks particularly for the steer to the Model Rail database - I had no idea it existed.
  13. If you can get hold of a copy of Model Rail No. 247 May 2018 you'll find therein a 5-page article by George Dent on making a 5-road traverser that strikes me as absolutely idiot-proof, with 26-step instructions each with a photo, plus an exploded diagram. It's for 0 gauge but I can't see that that really matters.
  14. I've brush-repainted the top half of a BR crimson and cream autocoach driver's end end with Railmatch BR Cream enamel and it's turned out much yellower than the Bachmann cream on the sides - screamingly so. Should have tested it first, of course. If it was an ordinary coach end I suppose I'd dry-brush it with filth-type colours to tone it down but I can't really do that here. Short of repainting with a better match in BR cream in another range, I was wondering if members with more painting experience than me can recommend any techniques for toning the yellowness down now that it's been appli
  15. As a result of a bungled paint job, I need to re-do the lining along the tops of the windows on my Bachmann autocoach. I'm basically a wagon-shunting type and this is the only coach I ever intend to run. Does anyone have a fag-end of a transfer sheet containing two coach-sides-worth of the relevant black and gold lining - about 60cms, or more if you have it in case I make a mess of the job first time? Happy to pay a reasonable price and send an SAE for minimum inconvenience.
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