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  1. After some damage, I made a mess - as you can see from the photo - of repainting the driver's end of my Bachmann 00 BR crimson and cream autocoach. I think I can remedy everything in time except that I just can't think of a way of neatly re-doing the two black linings above and below the crimson stripe at the top. It's a distinctive flat-topped curve across an angled bow-fronted end that I haven't seen on any other stock and I can't find any transfers on line that would do the job. For me, a lining pen would be out. Does anyone know of a transfer out there I've missed, perhaps for another type of coach, that would suit? I'd be most grateful for any advice or wizard wheezes. I'd like to get it right; when you're running these things on a layout, the front end seems all too horribly visible.
  2. I've always avoided ballasting - putting all that water, grit and glue into intimate proximity to electrics and tiny mechanisms is just asking for it, right? God knows, there's been plenty of agonised testimony to that on this forum over the years. And I have a shunting layout, all points and no long runs. I always thought there must be a better way. Admittedly there's the always-inventive Chris Nevard's use of Das to create that ash-ballast look. However, a long time ago on this forum, a member of this fraternity, 28XX by pseudonym, mentioned that he uses DIY ultra-fine filler for the same purpose (Goods Yard Ballast? 13/8/2015 - can't do hyperlinks). And as I recollect, no-one followed up his post. 28XX's post set me thinking. This stuff is acrylic. Finally I got some tubes of acrylic paint in the relevant colours from Hobbycraft (£2 for a big tube) and sieved some sharp sand (another Nevard favourite). If you mix the filler with the sand, it's hopeless - it won't stick together, and the filler is brilliant white anyway (28XX, incidentally, said he painted his with emulsion of choice - another acrylic, I believe - after it had dried). But if you begin to add gobs of the paint to your favoured shade plus a little water a bit at a time, you eventually end up with something like a toothpaste consistency - plastic enough to be controllable but not runny. I applied it to one of my short runs with a nice bendy sawn-off artist's palette knife, then used a stiff flat artist's brush on the sleepers and the sides of the rails. It was fingernail-hard in a couple of hours, and solid in six. I don't have a smart phone or a camera to supply a picture, but I venture to say the result looks pretty good to my eye. Adhesion to the cork underlay, which I thought might be a problem, is solid. No cracks in the stuff have yet appeared - tho it's only been 24 hours. Before I move on to doing a point, the ultimate test, I'd be most grateful for members' comments. Has anyone else tried something similar? Most particularly, are you still out there, 28XX?
  3. GWR & BWs: Thanks so much for your posts on availability. BWs ; thanks particularly for the steer to the Model Rail database - I had no idea it existed.
  4. If you can get hold of a copy of Model Rail No. 247 May 2018 you'll find therein a 5-page article by George Dent on making a 5-road traverser that strikes me as absolutely idiot-proof, with 26-step instructions each with a photo, plus an exploded diagram. It's for 0 gauge but I can't see that that really matters.
  5. I've brush-repainted the top half of a BR crimson and cream autocoach driver's end end with Railmatch BR Cream enamel and it's turned out much yellower than the Bachmann cream on the sides - screamingly so. Should have tested it first, of course. If it was an ordinary coach end I suppose I'd dry-brush it with filth-type colours to tone it down but I can't really do that here. Short of repainting with a better match in BR cream in another range, I was wondering if members with more painting experience than me can recommend any techniques for toning the yellowness down now that it's been applied - and I suppose for toning colours down generally in similar situations. Is ultra-subtle dry-brushing the answer? If so what colours? I don't have an airbrush.
  6. As a result of a bungled paint job, I need to re-do the lining along the tops of the windows on my Bachmann autocoach. I'm basically a wagon-shunting type and this is the only coach I ever intend to run. Does anyone have a fag-end of a transfer sheet containing two coach-sides-worth of the relevant black and gold lining - about 60cms, or more if you have it in case I make a mess of the job first time? Happy to pay a reasonable price and send an SAE for minimum inconvenience.
  7. I'm surprised no-one has yet mentioned the baby boa strap wrench, which is, in our kitchen, an ever-present help in time of trouble with all such problems. I don't know how to do web links but if you type in baby boa strap wrench on ebay, you'll see what I mean. We have the bigger version too, the boa constrictor for super-size lids. I've never known them fail.
  8. My thanks to all respondents for suggestions, partic Johnster and Steamport - rather belated as I've been having computer trouble. I should of course have specified the paint type - it's brushed Humbrol enamel. The basic problem, as Steamport says, is you can't take the damn roof off. Has anyone tried Deluxe's Strip Magic? Terribly expensive but the thing is, it's a gel and to some extent controllable. There's a very persuasive video on Youtube - I can't do links but you'll find it easily enough from Google - and I was thinking of giving it a go, masking the sides with tape or Maskol. I suppose one potential problem is, the stuff might eat the tape or the Maskol.
  9. Phew! Glad the show's back online. Don't miss it till it's gone, do you? I brushpainted the roof of my Bachmann autocoach - grey on grey, didn't need to do it on reflection - then applied dirty thinners for that streaked look too enthusiastically. The result: patches of paint have peeled off, other areas are intact, and little scabs of paint all over the place - a mess. I've tried rubbing it down with 1200 wet-and-dry but am fearful of rubbing out the lines of tiny rivets or are they welding spots. On the other hand, I'm equally anxious about using stripper in case any gets on to the coach sides, masked tho they'd be with tape. What would members advise?
  10. Thanks to all respondents.The consensus is clear; it's one of those jobs that have to be done, and thoroughly. I sort of knew it in a way, as your fingertips can feel the slight embossing of the decals. Brucie and Phil: putting on a primer coat to reveal problems strikes me as a great idea.
  11. I'd appreciate members' advice on a "first-ever" job, to wit a total respray of a loco. Will all existing cabside numbers, insignia etc be obliterated with adequate spraying or do they, presumably being transfers, tend to grin through? Is it best practice always to T-cut everything off first? Specifics: Hornby 08, from the green livery to the earlier black, Railmatch Weathered Black. Sage observations on other aspects of the business would be most welcome.
  12. Beast Thanks for the advice - nothing doing. From what Phil says above, it must be some quirk of IE, maybe as it operates on some computers but not others.
  13. Sorobain, Mark Thanks so much for your swift responses - it was the browser. Chrome and Firefox will do it all right, but not IE - can't imagine why.
  14. I can't for the life of me bring any photos up on Paul Bartlett's site. I've used it in the fairly distant past without any trouble. I can get to the site all right and bring up "headings" pages but whatever I click on, the photos refuse to come up. Is it my computer? Has anyone else encountered this problem?
  15. Many thanks to all supplying priceless shunting gen but partic to Johnster and 34 for such detailed stuff. Definitely worth filing away. The general consensus appears to be that there's not much in it between Bachmann's 3 panniers. But Spikey raises another question - does the controller you use make a real difference to slow running - and might it be that some locos behave better with particular controllers? Straying from my original question but not too far, I have another one. Hornby's 08 diesel appears to represent the gold standard when it comes to shunting operations. I was sceptical, and rather resented forking out so much money. But I see now how right prevailing opinion is. But why is it such a wonderful performer? Other locos have 5-pole motors and - like the Bachmann panniers - pickups on all 6 wheels. I can see that the gearing is very high - or is it low, I can never work it out - compared to any other loco I've known. Is that it?
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