John Clitsome

I run things in a sequence using a powerpoint system displayed on a monitor. This at least ensures I don't end up with a manoeuvre blocking something else, and as others have said it also shows a purpose. At the end of almost 100 moves everything on the layout will have moved at least once, and virtually all will have returned to the starting position again. I have yet to complete a full run through though!!

That's comforting information. It was something I read when I started adding sound to my fleet about 6 yrs ago. It didn't affect me personally as I sourced everything from John Gymer at Youchoos and knew from him that I could safely do it as the sound was protected from the rewrite. I did say 'check with supplier' - I wasn't guaranteeing anything, good or bad.

Kapton tape is perfectly safe to put round decoders. I've used it on numerous sound decoders and associated components and never had any problem with overheating.

Careful with the CV8=8 if you have sound decoders. That process has been known to wipe sound files so if that is the case check with the supplier first.

Yep- mine's hooked up on a cable tie. Should have been provided with pre-drilled hole.

As the points on the girder bridge are for the purpose of getting access to all the storage yard tracks, as this involves some wrong road running you may want to consider the alternative of hiding it. However if that's impractical or impinges heavily elsewhere then you just apply Rule 1!

Def lay on cork. It will help reduce noise through board and enable you to create an edge to ballast against. Re the track- use the pin vice to make holes for track pins although if your going to glue and ballast the track at least in the scenic sections then pinning won't be necessary, you'll just weight the track down while the glue dries. Ballasting will be done after that providing further stability. If you haven't seen already I strongly recommend you look at Charlie Bishops YouTube site Chadwick Model Railway. Apart from Charlies wonderful presenting skills you'll find a wealth of helpful tutorials on building a layout- I wish it had been available when I started my layout! You'll find he has a link to various suppliers, one of which is a firm in Aylesbury supplying large rolls of cork sheet at good pricing. I've read through your thread today, and although both era and scale is different to my interest, I've found it a thoroughly interesting read and look forward to following the build.

I built mine some yrs ago in 4mm and even in that scale the ladder and loops were challenging. Wouldn't like to attempt in n!

Look v similar to Gaugemaster Dcc30 ACC Decoders. Have a look at the instruction sheet online - it might give a clue.

I'm going back a looooong way - early '70's. I think it was named South Brent and I remember it because I based my first layout on its simple trackplan. Happy days!

I did this with an old Hornby Princess and found it best to hardwire as previously advised.

Yes, I've had that with mine. Could be caused by the pl10 moving slightly and the activating pin being out of line. I secure mine with some adhesive to the two sides of the motor. I agree it seems strange the motor will move them but not by hand then, but assume it's because too much pressure is being applied at distance from the top of pin and pulling it further out of alignment - if that makes sense!

Just a thanks TMC. Faulty decoder sent in on Monday- replacement arrived Sat. Ex service .

I've had this problem over several yrs. If a cap (stay alive) is fitted the Prodigy won't read back but if I disabled the cap ( a right faff) all was well. Gave up in the end and bought a Sprog and separate software from John at YouChoos. No problems now.

Ooooo, Matron!