SouthernBlue80s

To save me wading through 334 pages, have Accurascale produced a blue plated split headcode version yet, like 37049 pictured? Or if not do they plan to? Thanks

Jim. I hope your car is running again Steve

A bit sad about this. like many I bought my first loco from Hattons and allways had good service from them. I wish their staff well.

Modeling BR Blue, I have allways felt a rail blue 09 would be a quick win for them. They have the tooling it is a simple livery. They have never produced one. I guess they don´t think it is commercialy viable, which is fair enough.

Yes it sounds like it is shorting. Its a shame you have to cancel the work. And yes many parts have become very expensive. Too add gone are the days of wandering around a breakers yard and finding what you need.

The bugs were ugly. However with a set of morret front lights they look good. Also the 2.0 JDM ones had a particularly strong bottom end. They were good for 400 - 450hp. So it still is the cheapest way to reasonable power. Yes car are like people. They liked to be exercised and when they are not things start to go wrong. The sensor could be dampness. Sometimes I have found once things have warmed up, sensors unplugged plugged back in ect all comes right. Is the retune a tweak to the existing map that in effect is flashed on. I don't know much about Mini ecus and how 'flexible' they are. Obviously as you have said, you need to get the car working properly first. The way to really get the most out of it is an aftermarket ECU and a proper map. But for the expense sometimes isn't worth it. Pic of a mini on our rolling road just down the road from Bescot. Note a PROPERLY calibrated rolling road. And....I like your induction kit.

I was due to drive at Japfest in 2020. It was all lined up with the organisers. And then covid and then my dad with cancer ect etc. This was me testing the car at Donnington Park March 2020 just as covid was kicking in. Little did I know it would be the last time I would drive it, I was an interesting 14 year engineering journey. In a few years I will perhaps embark on a new car project. I hope you both have a good time there, Steve

I am very sorry to hear this news, I had noticed he had not posted for a while. We always gave our layout pictures likes and I very much enjoyed his pictures. He came across as a very decent chap. I always think of his layout when I pass through that part of Kent. Rest in peace Adrian.

This reminds me of when I used to visit the place

Thank you for clarifying that Ian Vacuume braked it is. 1981-83 was when I used to see it in South Wales Steve

I have just weathered 08818. The final stage is to put the brake pipes on. There are a few pictures of it late 80s as a dual braked machine. However my period is early 80s. I have found a couple of blurry pics on Flikr of it in South Wales but I can not make out any detail. It seems to be vac brake only? So was 818 vac brake only in 1982?

What a fantastic looking model. I am very surprised there is no 56036

Shunters

08375 I reworked this. Largely finished. I tried to get the yellow buffer beams with a chipped dirt covered effect. Which seems to have turned out well.

08818 finished. It's very poor light here so the camera phone isn't doing a great job. I will probably tweak it in a few weeks

Yes I mix the powder with water so it can be painted on. Not too thick or too wet but a nice mid useable consistency. Then I let it dry, it doesn't take long, the water seems to evaporate away pretty quickly. I then use dry cotton buds. You will need a lot of them, after a stroke or two a cotton bud end is dead. On bigger surfaces I have also used kitchen paper to wipe away excess weathering power. I used to airbrush. But my place isn't big and I no longer have the kit. I think it still is the best way to get initial base colours or fading on like you have done. And then for me the powders create the detail in the weathering

That dust wash you have used looks really effective. I might look into that. Something to try...on top of your effective fading How I get the dirt into the crevasses and to build up. Id I mix up a weathering powder equivalent of frame dirt paint it wet into all the corners and along edges where dirt might build up and leave to dry. Then I rub off and work in with cotton buds usually in horizontal motion as that is the way water runs down the sides of stock. (This is illustrated with my first two 08 pictures) I have my other 08 out now. And I hope tomorrow to have a big session to see if I can finish them. Even though I am pretty experienced with this weathering thing by now I am always a bit nervous I will muck it up at the last moment.

What you have done so far looks very good. It probably wouldn´t take too much to finish it. Steve

After my first disastrous 08 attempt. I bought a new body from Bachmann spares. (I might salvage the old one still) I made a start today and I am pleased the way it is heading. Work in progress.

I have been toying with the idea as well.

The Heljan model is looking good to my eyes. But I am no expert on the detail differences. So the Jury is out for me too. Now edging towards Heljan, as I want two rail blue plated headcode versions to start with and they are releasing a 47/3 in that guise. Not for me , but it is nice to see people now have a 48 they can purchase as well. Roll on January :)

Sunday engineering. More pictures here.

Sunday engineering featuring 50037 and 33053 somewhere just west of the southern region.

Reworked 50037 into that dirty late 70s early 80s state. I keep meaning to get hold of a large logo 50 and lightly weather it as a contrast. Iooking at the pictures, I think the roof could do with a bit more work