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Londontram

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About Londontram

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  • Location
    Great Yarmouth
  • Interests
    classic cars and Scottish steam trains from 1850 to 1920

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  1. Why must it cost so much , I have a spare K's tender top but what I might do is just trim the top "lip" down and add a roll top done many times by verious methods slicing a section of tube length ways and adding this to the tank top being one popular method I've seen used many times. Once the rivet detail has been removed new panels of 5 thou plasticard can be added to the tender sides to turn the tender back to the correct style. I would draw and cut this on my Silhouette but it could just as easally done by hand. New wheels would be a good idea but I'm lucky I have some correct Romford tender wheels in stock but they turn up quite often on the auction site. Needle point bearings could be fitted into the open Triang bearing boxes and the holes plugged with filler or small patches. So that's the tender sorted for next to nothing not £30 or £40 It's called modelling for a reason!
  2. Very much enjoying this thread its my sort of modelling. With the Atlantic could you not ad pickups to the front bogie? A small bit of copper clad some nickle silver wire and some very fine flexible wire all available on the web. I've done this on a few bogies like this in the past and I know other on here have too. It's worth giving it a try and might be the answer to the problem. It might be possible to swap the bogie for one already fitted with pick ups there's plenty coming up all the time on the auction site or available from one of the parts suppliers. I have thought of trying to do a "loose" scale version of the 1F myself starting with a Hornby Jinty and seeing yours has encouraged me to maybe give it a go some time. Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming. Steve
  3. That is really looking the business now and just goes to show what can be done with a bit of effort. I've got a couple of old Triang Hornby 3F in the bottom of the cupboard this makes me want to dig one out and do something along the same lines.
  4. Going off at a sort of tangent there's a Jameson Caledonian Jumbo 0-6-0 on that auction site at the moment. It gives you an idea of what an assembled kit looks like. No connection to me I just spotted it on there. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153819464046
  5. Check out Oxford rail as there bringing out a new crane that should help feed your passion.
  6. Coming along nicely my friend I like the method you've used for making the chimney in the past I've built chimneys and domes up from brass tube, washers and solder but I can see this method has some merritt. Keep up the good work I always look forward to your updates and progress reports Steve
  7. That really starting to look really great. The L1 the 3F (tender version) and (ok I know it's a little out) the 2P all respond well to a little bit of fettling and extra detail. There's so many box openers who will turn round and say why bother? Because it's fun and you get the satisfaction of running something that you've worked on and restored. Keep up the good work and keep the updates coming were all really enjoying them
  8. I've not done the numbers yet but how about sticking a front truck on the 812 chassis it might make a good starting point for a Caledonian 34 class 2-6-0 The Tenders the same and you might even be able to adapt the body in some way as well giving you another loco option. As to the 700 chassis theres so many Scottish 4-4-0 to choose from i wouldn't like to start to suggest where to go next. Me I've got a bit of a thing about the G&SWR 153 class big bogie so that's going on my to do list. Steve Caledonian 34 class 2-6-0
  9. I used a Bachmann Pannier for my Caley 782 class where the motor sits inside the tanks without the need to turn it. But used some Hornby 0-6-0 jinty chassis under a couple of Jumbos though as standard the wheels are slightly under sized I've got two more Jumbos in the kit stack and would go that way again though I did come by a Jumbo kit built around an Airfix tender drive and free wheeling loco chassis it actually works surprisingly well.
  10. I think your right Andy even as it stands that D has a very strong G&SWR look about it, I would say its the splashers If you changed the dome for safety valves new Sterling style cab and some smoke box wing plates and you've already got a very passable G&SWR Smellie 153 class in pretty much as built condition. But as always its down to the price as no one is going to be mad enough to butcher a £200 rtr model to make a near scale only loco. Well maybe Ben Alder he's nutty enough (In a nice way Richard) to chop up a brand new loco to get what he wants lol Quick look at a G&SWR 153 class
  11. I'm sure that chassis would be ideal for no end of Scottish 4-4-0 locos and it says it comes in at under £200 but if the upcoming Caley 812 class is anything to go by that will be £199 then! Or better still let's see the price at its launch. Perhaps if enough of us get together and contact Bachmann they will sell a chassis only on its own (dream on) Anyway keep up the good work Andy I'm very much enjoying the thread.
  12. Why not make the train battery powered and radio controlled so there would be no need for a metal elliment to the track its self, there's plenty of links to threads of people who have gone full battery and radio controlled on this forum. As to the grove is there a way it could be routed into the clear sheet it might be possible that once one track is done a simple jig running in one grove guides the router while it cuts the second grove keeping the guage correct. How this would work in practice is unknown as its only speculation but it might be worth exploring further.
  13. Well if thats the case perhaps the model of the Princess should never have been built as that class only made it into low double figures. As to the body yes it was very much of its time but was no better or worse than many offerings about at the time, the loco now a ripe candidate for breathing over and adding some sympathetic detail.
  14. Draw and score the shape on plasticard with a silhouette cutter. The cutter won't cut thick plasticard but will score it to create a cutting guide. It would be possible to cut thinner plasticard and laminate it together to form the truss. The advantage of the cutter is a perfect replica of the first truss every time.
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