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cravensdmufan

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  • Location
    Lincolnshire
  • Interests
    As well as main interest of UK railways real and model, I enjoy all travelling (including motoring), vintage vehicles, music, photography, walking, and sometimes helping my wife with gardening! We have a cat named Benjy.

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  1. Not really. I shouldn't have used the word rake! I'm thinking a couple of BGs a BSK, a TSO and a CK. Not all in the same train. I certainly wouldn't have the space for main line formations.
  2. I'm considering an O Gauge layout in my garage, which will be a new scale for me, and the availability of good looking R-T-R Mk1s will in fact be my trigger to start. I'd been studying existing models over the part couple of years at exhibitions (remember those?!) and nothing R-T-R looked quite right to my eye, Heljan being particularly poor (shape of roof and ends). Pre-production images from Dapol look excellent, so I'm happy to wait for those - a rake of 4 or 5 is a big investment (for me) so I need to be satisfied. Likewise diesel locos. At present there are some cracking ones, but a few "iffy" ones are out there too IMO.
  3. That's brilliant, thanks very much indeed. Have sent you a PM
  4. Hi folks, would anyone have one spare Lima Class 92 buffer please? Happy to Paypal and SAE. Thanks, Vivian
  5. I see your baseboards either side of the gap are 10mm ply and 20mm solid timber, much better engineered than mine which is is soft Sundeala. Also I made the mistake of soldering the rails to copper clad thereby stopping the temperature gap that you mentioned from fluctuating, I reckon that's why the slight rail movement is sideways rather than lengthways, hence derailments. Will now re-engineer. Thanks for providing useful photos and info.
  6. Depending on how often you intend to keep lifting it in and out, I actually think it's a good idea to have sliding fishplates to align the rails but as Phil says it would be necessary to have an additional method of conducting the power as using sliding fishplates to do that just wouldn't work well. As I only rarely use the lift out section as a bridge, I will try the sliding fishplates. I am actually going to re-engineer my lift out section hence my interest in this thread. Despite having the privilege of having the layout in a spare bedroom in the house (thanks Mrs CDF!) the lift out section has always given problems with derailments owing to fluctuations in temperature and atmospheric conditions, something which I hadn't considered when I made it out of 2x1 topped with the dreaded Sundeala! I'm forever adjusting it, and clamping it, wedging it etc! Despite soldering the rails to copper clad both sides of the gaps it's not great. It's the substrate that shrinks and expands slightly and it is that which needs replacing. I'm now thinking of thick plywood. Power to the rails was never a problem - I use plug in choc bloc connectors.
  7. On DCC, very occasionally a loco will take off unexpectedly! Sometimes at high speed! It happened to me but fortunately didn't reach the lift out section which was removed at the time. Now I just insert pegs (actually quite chunky cork board pins) into the track centres just in case. But Colin's idea of creating an isolated section would be better. I will look into doing that, cheers. Edit: Just to clarify, I mostly operate my layout as an "end to end" but have a lift out section by the door so I can have the option of it "roundy roundy". Nice sometimes just to sit an watch trains go by!
  8. Hope you get it sorted - let us know. I had no problems since.
  9. Yes Dave, I did actually watch those a while back. But I can't get the stuff to flow from the brush into the crevices by capillary action. I found these washes a bit of a strange product actually. If you use it without shaking or stirring then it flows a little bit but is colourless! So then I tried stirring it and it's better colour but quite thick and won't flow. And the brown one stayed sticky for days, as per above posts. So it's not my number one product for weathering, but quite useful if used in conjunction with other products or methods IMO. Like you, I haven't ventured to using an airbrush - I'm pleased with the results I get from my powders, acrylics, etc. Cheers. PS It's sometimes difficult to remove the child proof click tops from these washes after the products have been previously opened. Same with the older Railmatch jars. You have to clean them scrupulously before you screw the lids back down otherwise they just click, click, click..... despite downward pressure grrrr! I hate those types of jars!
  10. Extraordinarily good customer service - I never heard of a "home visit" by a manufacturer before (I assume it was before lockdown). I can only assume you must live near to their offices. Well done Hornby, even though they were unable to resolve. Sorry I can't assist as I don't have a S15 or a Select, but I was intrigued by your comment regarding Hornby's Technical Support.
  11. Clicking the "like button" didn't seem adequate - it looks brilliant!
  12. Final photo from me - I did another wagon but this time used Humbrol Dark Grey wash around the panel ribs which, thankfully, dried overnight. Humbrol powders for everything else.
  13. Thanks for that information Mick. I used the white spirit on a cotton bud and it lifted the Humbrol wash off easily. So having cleaned the panels but leaving the dried wash in the crevices, I lightly applied Humbrol weathering powder (Smoke) to the panels. Also I worked Humbrol Dark Earth powder into the underframe area. All sealed with a couple of huffs of warm breath! In the past I've found that with careful handling the powders stay on models quite well, with only very occasional need for topping them up. I was determined to weather this wagon with purely Humbrol products to see what could be achieved, and I'm now pleased with the results. I now have another four VGAs to do! Thanks everyone for your help.
  14. London Southwark those all look great, fair play to you. Could you tell us a bit more please? Did the wash take ages to fully dry? And did it leave a shiny finish, though looking at your photos it appears not. And did you stir the contents of the jar before application? I'm thinking of doing the other side of my VGA with the Humbrol grey wash as opposed to the brown which I used last week. Thanks.
  15. Before continuing, I was looking at photos and reading up on VGA wagons. I see their sides were made of aluminium which was unpainted. (Useful site for reference: https://www.ltsv.com/w_profile_029.php ) The Humbrol wash that I have used has effectively produced rather a nice "rusting" effect, which I now realise that looks totally wrong on the VGA! Just to be sure I just Googled "does aluminium rust?" and the answer was "yes" but it doesn't turn reddish brown but dark grey! So I shall now try removing my nice brown "rust" from the panels using Mick Bonwick's method of white spirit, but leave the wash around the ribs and darken with grey powders. Every day is a school day as they say!
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