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About cravensdmufan

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    As well as main interest of UK railways real and model, I enjoy all travelling (including motoring), vintage vehicles, music, photography, walking, and sometimes helping my wife with gardening! We have a cat named Benjy.

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  1. Thanks for sharing your file with us. (* My OpenOffice 4.1.3. opened it perfectly). Now all I have to do is get my head round it! I have an Loksound v5 which behaves strangely at certain speed steps so I must check it out. Yet another job on the ever increasing "to do" list.
  2. I agree that is probably the case - but these on the RB look more prominent than those on their Mk1s released in recent years. Hopefully it's the cruelty of the digital lens that has over emphasised them. Will need to see them in the flesh.
  3. I see from the images on Hornby's site that roof ribs have made a comeback - not by popular demand surely?
  4. Had this problem with Hornby Class 50s 56's and 31s as well. A quick dusting of DRY lubricant on the plate on which the coupling cam rubs is all it takes to keep the mechanism free. I only had treat my locos once and never had a problem since, even pulling the lightest wagons. I used Labelle 134 PTFE https://labelle-lubricants.com/shop/labelle-micro-fine-powder-with-ptfe/ , a U.S made product but available here, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/112565776821?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=112565776821&targetid=4585513248123143&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=398226956&mkgroupid=1310618094934606&rlsatarget=pla-4585513248123143&abcId=2145997&merchantid=87779&msclkid=b8dcdd304fb8199f170f8258da4501cc Others in the past have suggested using a soft graphite pencil. Whatever you try, make sure it's a DRY lubricant.
  5. It is always difficult to make judgement of a livery shade from old photos of individual locos - what you need is a shot of a loco alongside an item of rolling stock which you know is correct in the same photo. The colour reproduction and printing of that photo then becomes irrelevant. One such photo appears on page 56 of Hugh Ballantyne's excellent book "West Coast Blue Electrics" *. The photo was taken on 6th March 1966 and is of E3200 attached to a Mk2 TSO in blue and grey. The two shades of blue are the same. (E3200 was introduced new to service on 10th February 1966 so is definitely in it's original livery). Having said all that E3200 was the last of the AL6s to be introduced so maybe it's not the best loco to use as the definitive example of livery for all members of the class. Maybe earlier locos into service from mid 1965 were adorned with very slightly different paint? Who knows? No doubt the debate will continue! But I'll settle on Rail Blue! * Confusingly, Hugh's caption below the photo starts off with the words "New In electric blue livery"!
  6. Good to support them by ordering online. Always a very helpful company to deal with with a vast catalogue of items. This is a company which is normally in attendance at many exhibitions throughout the year, so the effect of the pandemic must have hit them hard. But hopefully they are still busy posting stuff out.
  7. Are these the ones? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/cuthbertw/m.html?item=233706549987&hash=item3669fef2e3%3Ag%3Avh4AAOSwD6FexXV7&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%2FB3VnKY%2B2XfuxZmACf%2FOTClrFFmRD7gMkj9zVKXenE%2FEY9wmHX89uMc0AaKBDgVLXDPiMK4W2TKJsBkT3oiEfLdEfAHM%2FyONQ0FbfGtqthVqyvcKTbF0%2BoIDa4BQancuhM5bytM3Y2xPX6bm93dC6GQRR%2B5rd1rF%2FLUwbFhErRLyxu0NoVHa%2FG0Nkf9i3jmQ1AeITCxamW86H9MpjHRZrpRUTcfOTCczbxjEr7uzWJY%2F4nEJFfwbwXiLljHHqH0ZrZb2bh1z4OcQx3J3X%2FsZHhlbl8%2FUc%2BgD2rRg%2BCwcku6xkDfaR8GVXoXEFJYAOyyp2z8Q%2FYGzl8E90fPRICEKUAF9lmBTng29xrzQEx1KQFkEDkoSESWK2BNO71SXF6T4eh9Y1nf1z4zTmecn8KFhWCVt%2FdK4N5UKmOjym22pyl4lqqD%2F8eGxt9pQAKt%2B7DNS7xDElExMqWBeYBm%2BGCyBrdI99e86YY360Vvn9tlCI84grlIJ8CBoXw1bR3Xeh2EG%2F1lHsIKkI7ypP0PY%2BsQFoCRF%2FbSxHpoMIvJyU94%2Bo3Laghgv7B5T9fcuITFv6SIaWZShvEf6LTAr0zHFIs%2FA4pzcqRbKcsmLvNs7vyhL%2Bvj5JedzqU15j5kN%2Bd9qYjN7%2Fafh%2F3GUFAOCSia2V2CkRqfwhHdgsD9Hv5CCnZeAlqlooUYii93b5ZRjys7nXzY2S8P5KGzLPHiS0B6g9Nz%2BDYV7818H7YeRtxC9vJHoPwn8a|cksum%3A23370654998748e74c1b01284dacbf9409981ab956c2|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 I'd be interested to know how you get on with it Melvin.
  8. It'll be fine - but let us know how you get on.
  9. I always use 50/50 Copydex/water for my ballasting. Quieter running compared with PVA especially if using Woodlands Scenic cork based ballast. Once dry it forms a latex like compound which holds everyting down nice and firm yet comes up much easier if you need to re-lay any track. Just get a wallpaper scraper under it. Despite it's truly 'orrible stink when you are applying it it definitely doesn't linger after it is dry!
  10. Wow, that is an amazing site - thanks for posting the link. Moreover it shows just how much has been released over the past 30 years, compared with the previous 30. I consider this manufacturer has really led the way in finely detailed and good running British R-T-R. Well done Bachmann.
  11. Agreed. I'd be very wary of purchasing any second hand controller actually.
  12. Did you buy this loco new? The reason I ask is that I purchased a used Bachmann 08 from a Toyfair which ran OK at first but then started running erratically and slow / faster / slow. Then sometimes stopped altogether. Then was OK again for a while after a "rest"! Cleaned all pick ups and checked wires. Then ran it on a rolling road with the body off and noticed a lot of sparking from inside the can motor. I guessed it was the carbon brushes which can't be replaced. Ordered a new motor from Bachmann spares at a very reasonable cost and loco is now perfect. How the previous owner could have worn out a motor on an 08 is anyone's guess unless it was used as on a roundy roundy trainset!
  13. Still very much worth the price IMO.
  14. Agree, using 128 speed steps is far better. Also changing CV150 to 1 (default is 0) usually cures juddering.
  15. It is good for yards, sidings etc. but a bit to dark for main running lines (particularly modern ones) IMO. Probably best to use before ballasting.
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