Bluemonkey presents....

Been slow modelling recently for a few reasons but recently purchased a Colin Ashby 20T mineral kit to suit those transfers purchased in error many moons ago. makes a lovely kit, rivet details stands out very well. Had to add some long door slams/springs and a little filler to lengthen the floor. Used the Slaters finer couplings and managed to drill .55 holes in the plain ended couplings, shouldering wire through as a stop. Tried that again on another coupling hook tonight and it would not happen so went back to making a cut but not as nice presentation so not pictured, lol.

Reading you blogs is proving to be expensive in the book department as well.

Outstanding Mikkel, thank you for your write up on the extra detailing to these kits. I have enjoyed building a number of these as you know and if you do not mind would like to use some of your knowledge to detail some more of these kits. I really like your subtle weathering and the use of pigments. How do you fix the pigments please?

Nice work on the grass, I think you have achieved the open grassy effect.

Dare I say it Rich.... You are steaming on with your stock builds.

I believe it is law everywhere to have at least one a week and the closer to Cornwall the more you must consume. Sarah really does not want to be in breach of such a long standing law. I also know where the best ever pasties are located and baked on a daily basis but thems the secrets we must keep my precious.

Do you get the 'privacy' blue tab in the bottom left of your screen. If so click it and you can stop the ads, worked for me as I was getting whole page ads every time I selected a notification, if not, sorry that's about the limit of my tech skills.

News on the planned layout; It has been a long time since the last update hence the link here as this is where I have been most active, additionally it is a lengthy piece so rather than cut and paste a large amount of text best have it in one place only.

@Nick Gough Thank you. I have a bungalow and due to the hoped loft conversion and the neighbours very poorly locate flu the positioning of our flu was restricted immensely so unfortunately left us just two options; The loft or badly standing out in the kitchen with a chimney through the middle of the roof (old boiler style). This is the best fit that we could get but not for the proposed layout. I am working on the idea of flipping the layout around so when the chimney is removed this becomes the location for the wider board and station area. The left hand side as looking at the forecourt of the station is a double main line with a central siding giving me less line to have cut throughs and also a little more flexibility with the curves (hopefully). I need to do some measurements and sit and stare at the whole thing for a few hours to work out if this is plausible. If it is that will be great although probably adding a couple more years on to the restart time.

No problem better to have then right than with tie bars, lol. Besides I had already replaced the plastic with a length of brass so they can be reused on other wagons once I have cleared my bench although I may now have no future layout. How are those sheep, I am very pleased with the cattle I received although the resin is very delicate on the legs so be careful there.

Very nice

Well it is sad day when you gas heating boiler dies. 25+ years of near outstanding service but needs to be replaced. The more modern and sleeker version is completely different in fixings and size, as well as flu regulations meaning the original location is now inappropriate and impossible to use so a new locations had to be determined. The only via location is that in the loft and the adjoining wall. This meant the removal of some of the baseboard structure that I had previous (over a year ago!) replaced. As the second start to my dream layout had also stalled it was not as drastic as it may have been to remove. With the new boiler and pipework installed the engineer asked "What are you going to do about your railway?" I innocently and naively said "Well I will have to rebuild the end losing some of the sweeping curve." There was a short silence and then the conversation returned to the functionality of the boiler etc. Funny how things pop into your head from nowhere! The penny dropped, like a £2 coin! Boiler is sited on the connecting curve side of what would be the up Swindon line. This had led to the loco shed to be based on Didcot. Full boiler access is required for servicing and maintenance meaning that I can not just rebuild with a shortened run and tighter curves the whole section (approx 4ft x 2ft) will need to be removable. As you can appreciate the shed area and entrance has numerous lines and points and all on a curve including the coaling stage and incline this will also include the curved main lines. Ahh now I understand the engineer's question fully, not only am I losing the physical 2ft (ish) from the installation but either another 2-3ft to allow for access or to make the entire section removable or hinged requiring a huge amount of sectional cuts through main running lines and points (risky for me and something I wanted to avoid) being a permanent layout). In short; Good news discussions had be taking place for the loft area to be converted to a proper room and one for my railway! Bad news; boiler died and a replacement required. Great news the new boiler is more efficient, quieter etc etc and all the floor pipework is now relocated away from feet. Bad news they are expensive. Good news the boiler is removed from the kitchen allow more space and relocated in the loft space. Bad news need to redecorate the kitchen. Great news not too much modelling or layout construction damage has taken place to site the new boiler and pipework. Bad news I now do not have enough space for my layout as too much has been lost from the end of the main boards to allow the station to be modelled. I had already made considerable adjustment to reduce to the length required for the station and yards and to allow the sensible curved ends for a roundy roundy. Good news considerable savings made as the loft now does not need a conversion and can remain a loft. Bad news no layout. I need to have a long think about what is now possible. Whilst I appreciate I still have and I am very lucky to have a considerable space to make a layout of which I am very grateful, this is not my dream nor plans. This was my single and only layout focus. Should I model another layout/location this will only be and always be second best. All my modelling and stock collection has been for this one single goal. My options now require serious considerations.

Welcome back Rob, great stuff. The water looks perfect especially in the shallows.

Thank you @Mikkel very much appreciate your thoughts. I have that series of books so will have to dig them out and ruffle through, thanks.

With the arrival of some of the final transfers and the wagons loaded with beasts I pushed to get the few livery complete ones 'weathered'. After using the sponge and brush that accompanies the Tamiya weather powder sets I fell up on a silicon brush set from. In the hope these would prove more robust and somewhat allow more precision when adding the powders a set was purchased, I could not find them sold individually. This is what was used to add the filth; The two main colours used were mud and rust with a little sand at times. Having already used the powders for the first five heavily lime washed wagons I used the same methods for the wagons with less lime wash and none at all. My idea for the lime wash is I have a number that can either be used for earlier period trains or slightly later having not received the clean. Then I have some with less lime wash being those wagons during the transition of lime use and the discontinuing of the practice, then the rest without the wash but still with 'in use' filth. Incorporating wagons during the 1920's. Back to the rubber brushes. The brush handles themselves feel long and wider than standard paint brushes although no overly. The silicon end feels secure in metal holder and comes in various shapes producing an interesting array of angles that can be used to the direct the powders. These may also be used to add very fine paint detailing marks and possible with practice/skill make graduated ink washes in a similar way to a chisel tip marker pen. As you can see from the picture the powers do seem to stain the silicon even after a good water wash and wipe. I tried each brush, they all felt well balanced and easy to grip. The silicon picks up the powders very nicely without the need to turn upside down and where you place the brush is where the pigments are deposited without the drop or spread when using a traditional brush. The pigment spread when making the stroke movement is something to get used to. It is nothing like a liquid, which sounds obvious but when using a brush mentally you expect a liquid, or at least I did (constantly!). A liquid gradually runs out of colour during the stroke whereas the rubber places the pigment and you have to spread it which works well on flat or slightly detailed surfaces and 'normal' brushing actions work but on more raised areas i.e. rivets, dabbing and pushing the pigment works better but means you need to reload more often. Cleaning, I used water and a cloth to wipe in order to use straight away without adding water to the pigments or spreading them on the models with water. As previously noted you can see staining of the silicon but this did not seem to transfer even when used in the light sand colour after using rust. Overall impression is a decent set of brushes well made, seemingly hard wearing although time will tell, nicely balanced in the hand and transfer of pigment good and easy to control. With more practice I think these can be a useful addition to the brush set although it is a shame they do not seem to be available individually but at £8 for a set of 5 brushes who can argue as one decent 'hair' brush can set you back nearly that. You can see for yourself the results although this does also take into account my lack of skill in using and weathering. I also give you the three degrees of lime wash application as described earlier catering for the 1920's period throughout; From left to right I have tried to represent varying stages of use; (1) heavy lime wash with rust, muck and general duty dirt, (2) lime wash depleting as the wagons were cleaned and not reapplied with lime, muck and rusty iron work and (3) no lime wash rusty irons and a little duty dirt and muck. I will be weathering the roofs later with all my wagons once I have a large number and more practiced with different effects. Just need couplings and we are there for these next to complete the rest. Apologies for the picture, the colours are a little more clear to the naked eye and do give a better overall appearance. Any comments, thoughts or experiences more than welcome. Has anyone else used these brushes?

I believe that would be where the Fire Devil chimney would locate the initial heat. Have never seen one painted like that might be restoration or simulation.

.................................... I had originally thought that the 'beams' could be something to do with the wedges used to place under tank tracks or vehicle wheels to stop movement on the wagon especially as my research showed these 'wedges' were marked for specific wagons including the running number, a further detail I had hoped to capture with my commission. This picture is one of the final pictures I found clearly detailing the description on the 'wedge' as well as providing enough detail of the other item of interest under the solebar (bottom left), (picture from the internet, various sources). I think I found the description in the cation for this as well. Not as I first thought the unused planks (evidently here) but chain boxes and no doubt other storage. These are not common to all or seemingly the majority hence my confusion and what turned out to be a lengthy enquiry. My chosen vehicle for this model is running 17313 this did have the added chain box detail but not sign of the wedges. Additional though it had rails between the two lashes either end of the wagon. These will need inserting. A touch of brass wire will sort that once the transfers are in place. As I was checking the filler level was not too high I noticed the running height of the wagon was uneven. maybe twisted during transit to it's new home? I gingerly set about correcting the twist and just as I was happy a bogie well apart. Luckily it had literally fallen apart rather than the normal snapping or bending out of proportion. An easy fix and a little more paint but this had me thinking!! I tried the other bogie and yes it also just came apart, so this was rebuilt and corrected the ride height. Can the other smaller details be manipulated the same way? Pliers, a little care and a little luck (for once) and yes they can. So the buffers were re-positioned as to the lashing points. Four now pointing up to enable a load to be lashed down, 5 corrected to hang down instead of the slight angle and one moved slightly to allow room for the full number, tons and tare to be positioned as per prototype picture. Now for the dreaded transfers I found two appropriate sets. First and my preferred completely disintegrated on placing. The second set worked just fine, lucky for me as I have had numerous problems with my transfers sets. Brass wire measured, cut, painted and inserted. Now for those chain boxes. Honestly the things we do sometimes is it for sanity or is it insanity? Plasticard and tinfoil are key. Plasticard to make up the boxes (each side specific as the measurements are slightly different) and then then foil carefully cut to make to angle brackets. Primer then the rivets for the brackets. Overall paint GWR grey and ink washes for the interior. Surely you need something in those boxes to remind you what they are for?! With some fine chain added and tarps produced from the same tin foil and painted then ink washed; Folded and staged the boxes can now be attached to the underside of the wagon where they will probably never really be noticed by anyone. Chain would never be left hanging out of the box but modelling licence in hope of the detail being noticed at some point allows me to. Anyway here's this finished item without the load. That will be added sometime later as I have the sleeper wagon chains to finish first and transfers. Bottom two picture a kind of before and after. I have now promised myself and the boss, no more until ALL the cattle wagons are finished along with other projects on the bench. If that means no more modelling ever then so be it.

After finding myself in a state of stalemate with my cattle wagon project I find myself idly scrolling through random eBay auctions of GWR related items. The world drifts by as I desperately avoid the never ending list of DIY jobs, gardening chores and builds. My eye is caught by a glimpse of a familiar wagon outline. Click, before I know it I am on the seller's auction page reading the listing and viewing the few pictures offered. More out of interest in if/how the builder had detailed the livery but again another Rectank wagon without the full detailed livery in fact this one has none which in a way is more attractive. If you recall a while ago I commissioned Simon owner of Old Time Workshop to create some Warflat transfers so I could model a specific picture I found of a train on the Calne Bunk. Whilst researching and drawing up the details I also did some work on WWI Rectank wagons as these were also prominent in WWII and I had an idea for a WWI project to go along with the Bachmann Ambulance set and those built already Whippets. I planned for the Rectank details to be created in the same vain especially as the text style and sizes are similar just one detail that would have been different to anything already in production. Sadly we have lost contact and with no replies to my emails I will not push especially with the world the way it is currently. Alas I go back to the auction for one finally look, crack a can of cider and there it is a reckless and foolish opening bid. You have enough unfinished projects on your work bench, you Muppet! Oh well it is the opening price and bid, someone else will bid in the coming days I am sure, especially as the white metal kits (which this is built from) have been going for close to £50 and the brass ones well name your price! Well what would you know, sometimes the maiden bid is the winning bid, oops. Here we are, some of you may have seen this whilst offered, I have used the seller's pictures as it did not cross my tiny mind to do before and after pictures; Before; The pictures do let this wagon down as much better in real life. I wanted to add a little more detail to the wagon whilst bring it back to the Great Western. This wagon is suited to WWI as it has 5 lashing points rather than the later 9. I find myself now with a built wagon to go with the unmade kits earmarked for the project, no commissioned transfers and no prospect for them to be made, !! Well at least I have a wagon built, granted not by myself so cheating somewhat. OK you have enough unfinished projects DO NOT make this another, get on. Brushes, paint and ink washes out. The decking and ends are wooden so out with my usual base colour (mig Faded Sinai Grey) and over a few days add thin coats off various inks (Citadel Agrax Earthshade, Nulan Oil and Reikland Fleshshade) and dry brush gunmetal (Humbrol Gunmetal) and base colour (mig Faded Sinai Grey). The metal body was given a coat of GWR grey (Vallejo Anthracite Grey), solebar and bogies black (Vallejo Premium Colour, Black). Unfortunately in my rush excitement I did not fill the gap between the wagon bed and sides (pic2). Once seen I could not get past it so had to fill it, thus having to repaint the wooden floor as the slight overspill of filler meant the colours did not match so repeat the lengthy process. This time not as effective but passable. The wagon is destined to be loaded with a Whippet tank circ 1918 so some of the lashes needed to be positioned, additionally the wagon I have selected to model from pictures also has bars running between the first to lashes each end and has an odd plank looking thing under the solebar resting along the wires and the central jacks. More research to try and discover what this is and how Whippets were secured when loaded i.e. how many chains and lashing points would have been used, Also do I have enough of any on sort of transfer to be able to fulfill the livery with the obvious exception of the detail I was most wishing to have commissioned, this being the 'on' and 'off ' labels with a curved directional arrow. Lets hit the books...........................................................................

Very nice, your layout is really taking shape. Great job on the bridge.

I am trying to represent the Devon Red breed as I believe this would have been more common in my prototypical area and station setting period. @Compound2632 that is something I have not considered and I have not researched agricultural habits and movement of stock type which maybe I should have. The cattle in question will all be loaded and thus barely visible especially as these are 1:76 not the 1:87. certainly something to consider for cattle docks etc. Thank you.

Yes loads of Mex'es. I plan at least two trains with the majority Mex with a few to add in to various other freight trains. I have put mine against a magnet and unfortunately no magnetism. There are brass and I have blackened mine chemically, no sure if that would have any interference. The links are magnetic, definitely having checked the siphon C couplings on my mag strip. Here's a direct visual comparison of hooks, not to tease Mikkel . Slaters are those on the etch and the single is Smiths W&T version. Not the best picture sorry.

I have a stash of Smiths 3 link though so will have to work through those before acquiring more Slaters although the cattle wagons may see the end of that stash, possibly. Mean while a herd of zombie cattle transform to near mortals again. Once I fixed a few broken legs (no flash scraping) give a blast of primer. Then on to the base coat.

I too prefer the Slaters couplings as they are certainly finer. What do you do with the pair that always seem to not have the cut at the end for bending? I have tried cutting and bending on it's self both work but the bending is better for me.

Talking of eBay here's a little ABS match truck I accidently won, by which I mean I put the start price bid on and no one else bid. totally unexpected but nice. As I still have the cattle wagons to complete but having to rely on external influences I turned my attention to what I hoped would be a pleasant an quick build. Used my old HMRS transfers for this, seem to have worked out. The build was a little tricky as the W irons are all sperate requiring alignment but if place where prototype suggests the brake gearing is pinched by at least 1mm. Overcome this issue from the spares box, which is now considerable, used a plastic set from the recent cattle wagon efforts and shaved the shoes down a little. Works for me. Decent little addition to stock.

Anyone else having 3 link chains break on them when making them up? (Smiths W&T products) I seem to have a number of the links break on me to the point I have the hooks, springs and split pins but not the links!